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Can someone please confirm these parts & their purpose?
Back in Jan 2011 I picked up a 2005 WDP 5AT from an Acura dealer. Since it was winter, I didn't really put the HVAC system through any tests and I was a real putz at the time (I'm still a putz, but that's a different story). I later learned there were two things wrong:
1. When changing the "Mode" to redirect air through different vents, the driver's side center was blowing much less than every other vent, but usually would correct itself after some period of time.
2. Incremental changes to the temperature did nothing. Let's say it was set at 70 degrees, but it was "winter" in Phoenix which means I needed just a touch of heat. If I raised the temps, it made no difference unless I cranked it up to the max heat setting. Then the heat would kick in and I could adjust it down from there.
After a recent scan I found this:
Air Conditioning System 8 problems exist
1.B1236 An Open In The Passenger's Air Mix Control
Motor Circuit
2.B1238 A Problem In The Passenger's Air Mix Control
Motor Circuit, Linkage, Door, Or Motor
3.B1006 MICU Lost Communication With Power
Window Master Switch
4.B1005 MICU Lost Communication With Relay
Control Module
5.B1007 MICU Lost Communication With Combination
Switch Control Unit (Headlight Switch Message)
6.B1010 MICU Lost Communication With Power
Window Master Switch
7.B1008 MICU Lost Communication With Gauge
Control Module (A/T Message)
8.B1011 MICU Lost Communication With Gauge
Control Module (VSP/NE Message)
The only ones I'm focused on right now are the first two, because I think the rest are bunk or the result of my HFL being disconnected.
When I researched these several years ago, I think I identified the possible culprit parts: A24840A & A24850A. And I actually ordered some used pulls from an ebay listing.
But here's the problem: I can't cross reference these parts on any Acura site and the descriptions on the tags are gobbledy-gook.
I've genuinely tried to sort these out and hope someone who knows what's up can confirm these parts and what I should do with them.
A24840A
One description: HEATER REGULATOR RECIRCULATE MOTOR
Another: AIR FLAP MOTOR/ACTUATOR
I think this is the part that's actually responsible for moving air to different vents when you hit the Mode button, and since my issue appears to be on the driver's side, I'm inclined to replace it on that side. This was the closest post I could find:
A24850A
One description: A/C Heater Blend Door Flap Actuator
Another: A/C Blend Door Mode Motor Assy
I think this is the one responsible for regulating different temperatures. And since my codes indicate an issue on the passenger side, I was going to go after it as outlined in these threads:
So I have pulls of both of these parts and I'm guessing there are two in each car: one for the driver's side and one for the passenger's side.
I obviously want to do as little work as possible, so if someone can confirm my understanding and which ones I should go after, I'd really appreciate it!
Mode controls where air goes, mix controls temperature, mix is also sometimes called blend. Recirculation is completely different, it switches where air is coming from, inside of the car or outside.
2. Incremental changes to the temperature did nothing. Let's say it was set at 70 degrees, but it was "winter" in Phoenix which means I needed just a touch of heat. If I raised the temps, it made no difference unless I cranked it up to the max heat setting. Then the heat would kick in and I could adjust it down from there.
I had a similar problem as your number 2. You can read the posts below to determine if the problem is your air mix motor. Cleaning the contacts will often fix the problem (did not work for me).
Mode controls where air goes, mix controls temperature, mix is also sometimes called blend. Recirculation is completely different, it switches where air is coming from, inside of the car or outside.
I don't know where you got those parts numbers from. Google doesn't really come up with anything (it shows pictures for some actuator for Nissan??).
Thank you, @peter6! Seeing that diagram reminded me that I had printed off info about both of these parts from the Service Manual 2-3 years ago and then never DID the actual repair. Also realized I've been trying to identify the parts I have in reverse order: should have gone to the Svc Manual first, found the diagram and part names, then go hunting on the parts site using the name. Sorry about that!
Lastly, the "part numbers" I referenced were on barcode labels on the parts or the numbers on tags that the junkyard put on them. I think they confused me because their written descriptions were wrong. Whatever the case, I think I know what I need to do.
OK, I went in to try and remove the Driver's Mode Control Motor. Svc Manual makes it look like a piece of cake. First, you need to be the size of a small monkey to get under there. But next, there is no straight shot to remove the screws. I "might" be able to get 2 of the 3 out, but that third one is being blocked by a long piece of gold colored metal. I can get some pics later, but any tips or tricks to get that damn thing out?
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about although the angle of the photo doesn't adequately show the obstruction that the metal bar creates right above the white tube. I was able to pop that white tube out of its bracket, but that really hasn't provided any more access to the blocked screw. The photo also shows the barcode stickers and the "part numbers" on both the Driver's Mode Control Motor and Air Mix Control Motor that I was referring to earlier in this thread.
^
So, which self-tapping screw is the problem? Red circle or Yellow circle?
It appears that a phillips or 6-8mm socket can be used to extract said screws?
Maybe something like the swivel 8mm socket below on a short extension?
First, you need to be the size of a small monkey to get under there. But next, there is no straight shot to remove the screws. I "might" be able to get 2 of the 3 out, but that third one is being blocked by a long piece of gold colored metal. I can get some pics later, but any tips or tricks to get that damn thing out?
I've removed the mix motor (below the mode motor) several times. I usually move driver's seat as far back as possible, put my legs on seat and rest my head near the pedals. I use the nut driver part of an all in one shorty screw driver so I think those screws are either 6 or 8 mm like Zeta wrote.
For the mode motor, it looks like the front two screws are hidden by the metal brace. If I had to remove that motor, I'd use a mirror/camera to see the area. Then I'd use the tool in the attached link plus a nut driver.
For the mix motor, removal is hard but ten times easier than putting the motor back. I think I may have skipped replacing the hardest screw the last time I did the mix motor.
^
So, which self-tapping screw is the problem? Red circle or Yellow circle?
I think the yellow circle is part of the mix motor. The red circle is the easy screw for the mode motor. I think the two screws that will give him trouble are the ones not seen. They are behind the metal brace in the picture.
^
So, which self-tapping screw is the problem? Red circle or Yellow circle?
As I said, this angle doesn't accurately reflect what's going on. I believe the yellow you circled is one on the mix motor, whereas the red one is on the control motor and below the brace I have a 90-degree offset phillips that I might be able to get under that brace.
Then I'd use the tool in the attached link plus a nut driver.
Looking at a diagram of the mode motor, maybe a stubby 6 8 mm open wrench would be best for breaking those two nuts free. Then use you fingers to loosen the nuts completely.
^
Thanks redbeard1, based on your clarification above (highlighted in blue) now I understand the screw location is more like what's depicted below?
I agree that that mini ratcheting screwdriver would improve the odds of getting under the bar. Great find, BTW.
@redbeard1 Thx for posting. The screws circled in purple were the "easy" ones. I ended up cracking them with an 8mm open wrench and then spun them by hand using an 8mm socket on the end of a small 2-3" extension. If you have a super short Phillips, this may have been way easier. Since I had a junkyard pull from several years ago, I didn't bother cracking and reconditioning mine. However, one thing I noticed is that when I pulled my Mode control motor out, the "arm" that moves the flaps to redirect airflow was still attached. In the attached pic is my broken one mounted on the metal frame I received it from the junkyard on. The one on the right is another pull that doesn't have the arm attached.
The junkyard pull with the arm attached was out of position compared to my broken one. So before I reinstalled it, I left it hanging and put the ignition to the ON position with the AC fans blowing. When I did, the motor moved the arm to the same position as my broken one. Put it back in place and...BAM, airflow is moving correctly after each mode change.
So 11.5 years after I first noticed it at purchase but couldn't "prove" it, and 5+ years after I used this forum to identify the bad part and ordered a junkyard pull, I FINALLY fixed it! Woohoo!
Thx for everyone's help and on to figuring out which Air Mix control motor to go after...
After replacing the driver's side mode control motor, I ran the diagnostic. It raised the following two errors:
1. An open in the passenger's air mix control motor circuit
2. An open or short in the passenger's mode control motor circuit
I also tested the passenger's side, and sure enough: neither the mode control or the air mix control motors are working properly. Looks like I'll be curling up like a monkey and trying to replace both of these on the passenger's side now...
07-30-2022, 12:59 AM
I was like WTF.
