rockstar143's '04 NBP progress thread (part deux continues after 6 year hiatus)
#4801
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damn Jeremy....those are some sick pix....car is looking great...
you are making me drive upto Steven's house, borrow his camera and shoot some pix of my car LOL
you are making me drive upto Steven's house, borrow his camera and shoot some pix of my car LOL
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#4805
Austin, here's a meme for you: :stink:
And since I'm not itching to go spend extra money on a new upstream O2 sensor just yet since it's $137 bucks at Acura now...figured I'd give this a shot when I got home from basketball. 10 minutes and BAM, both of them out, code cleared on my bluetooth OBDII reader, and battery neg pulled. Going to try and leave it out for a few hours...pop them back in before bed.
If that persistent 2 sets of codes come back again...then it's time to swap the rear bank 1 sensor 1 upstream. It's getting progressively worse too...when the car sits, even for just 2 hours...it sputters and has no power until it gets going. MPG took a hit...and I can feel it, even at highway speeds, downshift and there's a delay in throttle responding and you can feel the engine having to power through and eventually get going. I'm guessing it's running rich due to the code.
Sittin in dat phat seafoam,yooo
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Indeed, I'd love to see some shots from that T4i.
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So J, when are you driving up to NC? Maybe we could hit the mountain roads over my fall break
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I'm coming too!
#4811
Dreem, what the fk is a dumby sensor!??! This is not the downstream set of O2 sensors that just kick out the code for emissions, the 2 pictured are the upstreams that determine the air/fuel mix.
I let the O2 sensors soak for 2 hours in Seafoam and then an additional 10 hours in gasoline. Also, after careful anaylsis of the wire colors and location on the plugs, realized that the front and rear are identical. I swapped them on my reinstall to see if the code follows the plug.
Upon driving this morning, immediate misfire codes etc...and then a brutally rough and overly rich drive to the highway...first 5 minutes the car felt like it was going to die, idling weird and I could punch it and wouldn't do anything but sputter until it hit over 4K and then it just opened up...had a few high rev runs as I got on the highway to burn any residual gas off the sensors...then it rode fine and smooth all the way to work.
Cleared the codes again and they stayed off. Now, time will tell. After sitting all day we'll see what code I get. I can say that immediately though, the code that popped up with the misfires was 0154, which is now a fault on the front upstream sensor (the one that was "bad" on the back upstream that I swapped upon reinstall). So, if codes come back after work today, I'm going straight to Acura and buying a new one of those because I'll feel confident that that is the ACTUAL problem.
Tyler, one of these days, I will take you up on that. That would be lots of fun. Austin can come too.
I let the O2 sensors soak for 2 hours in Seafoam and then an additional 10 hours in gasoline. Also, after careful anaylsis of the wire colors and location on the plugs, realized that the front and rear are identical. I swapped them on my reinstall to see if the code follows the plug.
Upon driving this morning, immediate misfire codes etc...and then a brutally rough and overly rich drive to the highway...first 5 minutes the car felt like it was going to die, idling weird and I could punch it and wouldn't do anything but sputter until it hit over 4K and then it just opened up...had a few high rev runs as I got on the highway to burn any residual gas off the sensors...then it rode fine and smooth all the way to work.
Cleared the codes again and they stayed off. Now, time will tell. After sitting all day we'll see what code I get. I can say that immediately though, the code that popped up with the misfires was 0154, which is now a fault on the front upstream sensor (the one that was "bad" on the back upstream that I swapped upon reinstall). So, if codes come back after work today, I'm going straight to Acura and buying a new one of those because I'll feel confident that that is the ACTUAL problem.
Tyler, one of these days, I will take you up on that. That would be lots of fun. Austin can come too.
Last edited by rockstar143; 08-31-2012 at 07:30 AM.
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great idea switching the sensors....sometimes one bank runs leaner/richer than the other and hence causes more damage to 1 sensor....
did you dry the sensor completely before install? did you disconnect your battery for a hard reset? and if you did that did you do the idle relearn process?
i feel the last 2 steps are important for any mod/install...
if i were you, i would disconnect the battery while you are at work and then connect the battery and go through the idle relearn process and see how the drive is....
also ACURA will charge you a testicle and an butt cheek for the sensors....why dont u just buy a "bosch" sensor from Autozone with the coupons and wire them yourself? just saying....
did you dry the sensor completely before install? did you disconnect your battery for a hard reset? and if you did that did you do the idle relearn process?
i feel the last 2 steps are important for any mod/install...
if i were you, i would disconnect the battery while you are at work and then connect the battery and go through the idle relearn process and see how the drive is....
also ACURA will charge you a testicle and an butt cheek for the sensors....why dont u just buy a "bosch" sensor from Autozone with the coupons and wire them yourself? just saying....
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rockstar143 (08-31-2012)
#4813
Thanks Anil.
1) NOPE! LOL...that's probably why it was driving absolutely crappy for the first 5 minutes...I pulled them out of the gasoline and tried to dry the outside of them, but not the inside. It had to burn/evaporate off.
2) This I DID do.
About the sensor...here's my thing:
OEM price is $205 for one...but I get it at $137.
the Bosch on the Autozone has 2 prices...$89 and $140. Don't know the difference
So, figured for that close a price, I might as well just go OEM. Plus, what if part of the problem is a brittle or bad connection at the oem connector? I don't mind soldering 5 wires up, no problem...but if code stays I'll feel dumb.
1) NOPE! LOL...that's probably why it was driving absolutely crappy for the first 5 minutes...I pulled them out of the gasoline and tried to dry the outside of them, but not the inside. It had to burn/evaporate off.
2) This I DID do.
About the sensor...here's my thing:
OEM price is $205 for one...but I get it at $137.
the Bosch on the Autozone has 2 prices...$89 and $140. Don't know the difference
So, figured for that close a price, I might as well just go OEM. Plus, what if part of the problem is a brittle or bad connection at the oem connector? I don't mind soldering 5 wires up, no problem...but if code stays I'll feel dumb.
#4814
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makes sense....
but just a FYI that OEM uses the same bosch sensor....the 2 that you see on Autozone or some would be
1> universal sensor with loose wires
2> with OEM connector...
if i were you, i would snip(LOL) the OEM connector off from the current (faulty) sensor and wire that up to the option 1 from Autozone....
so your total would be 90x4 (say you replace all 4) = $360 - whatever coupon is going on...15% off 200 or more?
as compared to 137x4 = 548....
if the Autozone option pops the code back you can always return em saying they are faulty right?
EDIT: none the less, i hope the codes dont come back and you can spend that same money on some mod
but just a FYI that OEM uses the same bosch sensor....the 2 that you see on Autozone or some would be
1> universal sensor with loose wires
2> with OEM connector...
if i were you, i would snip(LOL) the OEM connector off from the current (faulty) sensor and wire that up to the option 1 from Autozone....
so your total would be 90x4 (say you replace all 4) = $360 - whatever coupon is going on...15% off 200 or more?
as compared to 137x4 = 548....
if the Autozone option pops the code back you can always return em saying they are faulty right?
EDIT: none the less, i hope the codes dont come back and you can spend that same money on some mod
#4815
Thanks buddy!
Good advice.
Actually, the bottom 2 have been trouble free for like a month now. When this code kicked, they showed back up, but before that, they settled in and got used to the new airflow etc (only way I can explain it!).
And the upstreams...only 1 of them is bad. When i swapped this morning and the codes came back...some were just remnants...but there was a NEW one...code for the FRONT upstream bank (where I just put the "bad" one...to test).
I only needed one anyway.
About OEM...I read up on it. Supposedly our sensors are made by NTK, which is a subsidiary of NGK. But, at the end of the day, same ish...I'd trust Bosch just the same.
Good advice.
Actually, the bottom 2 have been trouble free for like a month now. When this code kicked, they showed back up, but before that, they settled in and got used to the new airflow etc (only way I can explain it!).
And the upstreams...only 1 of them is bad. When i swapped this morning and the codes came back...some were just remnants...but there was a NEW one...code for the FRONT upstream bank (where I just put the "bad" one...to test).
I only needed one anyway.
About OEM...I read up on it. Supposedly our sensors are made by NTK, which is a subsidiary of NGK. But, at the end of the day, same ish...I'd trust Bosch just the same.
#4816
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wow! Nice info RS143, as always... My ladies ACCORD is having a issue with one of the 02's...I forget which BANK and #. But I really need to get it fixed. But every time I price it, something is different or wrong. Prongs, # of wires, the appearance of the plug, length...etc etc...I can never find a definite part# to go by and go forward with a plan of purchase or fix.
on the other hand...Jer, U make me wanna take the Sony Cybershot PnS and have a mini shoot. You car and pics look so dam good all the time. I really hate my camera! I would love to purchase a starter/beginer SLR/DSLR cam, or one bad ass alike PnS...and recommendations from some photo guru's?
on the other hand...Jer, U make me wanna take the Sony Cybershot PnS and have a mini shoot. You car and pics look so dam good all the time. I really hate my camera! I would love to purchase a starter/beginer SLR/DSLR cam, or one bad ass alike PnS...and recommendations from some photo guru's?
Last edited by JayVee; 08-31-2012 at 12:42 PM.
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^^^ knowning Jeremy....i think he will put a very well detailed DIY if he ends up swapping the O2 sensor for a "universal" one...
#4818
wow! Nice info RS143, as always... My ladies ACCORD is having a issue with one of the 02's...I forget which BANK and #. But I really need to get it fixed. But every time I price it, something is different or wrong. Prongs, # of wires, the appearance of the plug, length...etc etc...I can never find a definite part# to go by and go forward with a plan of purchase or fix.
on the other hand...Jer, U make me wanna take the Sony Cybershot PnS and have a mini shoot. You car and pics look so dam good all the time. I really hate my camera! I would love to purchase a starter/beginer SLR/DSLR cam, or one bad ass alike PnS...and recommendations from some photo guru's?
on the other hand...Jer, U make me wanna take the Sony Cybershot PnS and have a mini shoot. You car and pics look so dam good all the time. I really hate my camera! I would love to purchase a starter/beginer SLR/DSLR cam, or one bad ass alike PnS...and recommendations from some photo guru's?
Just keep an eye on the black market, got mine for a great deal on the BM...$380 shipped with a bunch of accessories and carrying bag. Love it. I'm learning, slowly but surely. I've also become SO much more critical of my work. If you were closer, I'd take some pictures...especially with your covers coming up!
Do you have a Bluetooth OBDII unit? It costs $20 on amazon...then $5 for the Torque App. SO awesome...can take your readings on the fly...as you're driving etc...check what codes pop up...can clear them...
HIGHLY recommend you do it. On my 97 accord, my rear O2 sensor took a dump...KILLED my MPG...easy enough to change out.
J.
#4819
Anil...true that...
BUT, lately I've felt like some of my projects have either been TOO simple to document...or don't solve the problem
I'm a beaten man.
Clutch assist spring replacement did NOTHING for the clutch squeak...BUT, injecting some HONDA high temp UREA grease certainly did!
BUT, lately I've felt like some of my projects have either been TOO simple to document...or don't solve the problem
I'm a beaten man.
Clutch assist spring replacement did NOTHING for the clutch squeak...BUT, injecting some HONDA high temp UREA grease certainly did!
#4820
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Anil...true that...
BUT, lately I've felt like some of my projects have either been TOO simple to document...or don't solve the problem
I'm a beaten man.
Clutch assist spring replacement did NOTHING for the clutch squeak...BUT, injecting some HONDA high temp UREA grease certainly did!
BUT, lately I've felt like some of my projects have either been TOO simple to document...or don't solve the problem
I'm a beaten man.
Clutch assist spring replacement did NOTHING for the clutch squeak...BUT, injecting some HONDA high temp UREA grease certainly did!
Personal experience > Honda service dept scans
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rockstar143 (04-08-2013)
#4821
You are NOT lying, man!
I woulda ended up replacing the master cylinder if I followed the TSB. BUT, I read and read and had a BUNCH of people follow up saying the noise returned.
SO, that led me to believe that maybe a grenade to kill a mosquito approach wasn't what was in line.
I woulda ended up replacing the master cylinder if I followed the TSB. BUT, I read and read and had a BUNCH of people follow up saying the noise returned.
SO, that led me to believe that maybe a grenade to kill a mosquito approach wasn't what was in line.
#4822
im sorry dont mean to hijack this thread.. newbie here.. but i have a 08 tl.. and im looking to thru the 2012 tl rims on it.. has any one seen this done? and any pics and where can i see it ?
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rockstar143 (08-31-2012)
#4823
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Here is the thread where u wanna troll thru Enjoy and WELCOME NooB! We love fresh meat! ~ ...lol
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/
#4824
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#4825
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Why the hell would you post that here?
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#4826
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I bet J would be happy that he had the "first" post of a user on his thread on the 121st page....
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rockstar143 (08-31-2012)
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we need to do a photoshoot bruh !!!
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rockstar143 (08-31-2012)
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Tyler, why don't you just drive to my place of residency, we'll get the guys together and you can try out my new Canon!
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rockstar143 (08-31-2012)
#4830
Hey man, I'm honored, a 1st post (although misguided). Welcome to the forums and as others have said, I'm sure you'll learn where to ask things. Easy answer to your question is YES, it can be done. You just need a version 2 spacer that will bolt to your bolt pattern and then have 5 new lugs sticking out in the 120 x 5 that a 2012 TL's wheels come in. Expect at LEAST a 15MM space or larger to do this, and will probably have to have it custom made to the tune of about $250 for all 4. BUT, it can and has been done.
Soooo...DRIVE HOME and car was fine...no rich sputtering, nothing, no CEL. Car ran home like a champ. We shall see if it holds up...if it comes back, I betcha it'll be front upstream sensor and I'll just bite the bullet.
Thank you "Other Tyler", I appreciate the compliment, bud!
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You guys crack me up!
We were going to see Journey, Loverboy and Pat Benatar tonight, but we're getting hit with the steady rainfall that is Hurricane Isaac. So AZ tonight!
We were going to see Journey, Loverboy and Pat Benatar tonight, but we're getting hit with the steady rainfall that is Hurricane Isaac. So AZ tonight!
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rockstar143 (08-31-2012)
#4835
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I've seen all 3 acts-in their original configuration, so it's OK by me. I hope my new wife is not disappointed though....
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#4837
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LOL...I never had a mullet. Hell, never had enough hair for a mullet!
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#4838
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#4839
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1.8 is the largest the aperture will open to.
My teather told us all the time, "The larger the number, the smaller the hole." inb4 ghey jokes.
1.8 means the aperture is wide open on that lens.
F22 on the other hand, means the lens' aperture is very small, letting in very little light, now you need a longer shutter speed to let in more light.
Now another thing good to know is, when at f/1.8, you have a very short depth of field (DOF), meaning you can have a flower in focus and something a mere few inches back will be completely blurred. At higher f/stops, f/8, 10, ect, your depth of field expands, letting more objects come into focus.
The benefits of that 50mm lens is the f/1.8, it's a very fast lens. You can have it at f/1.8 and have a fast shutter speed because it's letting in a ton of light. Hence this lens is also good for low light situations.
And one more thing about your pics, try bringing down the ISO if you're seeing a lot of noise, (zoom in really far in some of your pics). Higher ISO usually creates noise, which is a pain in the arse.
My teather told us all the time, "The larger the number, the smaller the hole." inb4 ghey jokes.
1.8 means the aperture is wide open on that lens.
F22 on the other hand, means the lens' aperture is very small, letting in very little light, now you need a longer shutter speed to let in more light.
Now another thing good to know is, when at f/1.8, you have a very short depth of field (DOF), meaning you can have a flower in focus and something a mere few inches back will be completely blurred. At higher f/stops, f/8, 10, ect, your depth of field expands, letting more objects come into focus.
The benefits of that 50mm lens is the f/1.8, it's a very fast lens. You can have it at f/1.8 and have a fast shutter speed because it's letting in a ton of light. Hence this lens is also good for low light situations.
And one more thing about your pics, try bringing down the ISO if you're seeing a lot of noise, (zoom in really far in some of your pics). Higher ISO usually creates noise, which is a pain in the arse.
great write up. I think of it like this in terms of compostition, lower F/ means shorter focus range. Higher F/ means longer.
so, F/1.8 on this picture, is almost too small to get the full depth of the flower, but I wanted the most Bokeh behind as possible.
and this one was around F/4-6 (I can't remember exactly) meaning I got to have that WHOLE bench in focus.
J, you old.
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