Supercharged members chime in
09-12-2014, 02:11 PM
#601
I think on a TL with a stock bottom end, a mix of water/meth is better because while it won't make quite as much power, the water does a better job at cooling combustion temps while the meth flashes off so quickly it cools the air more.
Just one thing though. I like overdriving the superchargers so boost comes in earlier and using the bypass to limit boost. It can create a little more best though. Using an intercooler will allow you to run a smaller pulley for boost to come in sooner due to the pressure drop across the intercooler.
Just one thing though. I like overdriving the superchargers so boost comes in earlier and using the bypass to limit boost. It can create a little more best though. Using an intercooler will allow you to run a smaller pulley for boost to come in sooner due to the pressure drop across the intercooler.
In regards to the smaller pulley, IHC is correct as I'm doing just that. I'm certain if I didn't have the FMIC, I would definitely see more boost. But why sacrifice reliability?
In any event, do your thing Dave. I for one appreciate the updates & pics!
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (09-12-2014)
09-12-2014, 03:04 PM
#602
Whoa whoa whoa whoa, stop the clock!
These POS comptech units have the bypass OPEN most of the time? No wonder they don't see peak boost early. I thought with a roots, they should see full boost right at WOT, regardless of RPM. I always thought the torque on these things stunk for what they were.
Is the bypass being open the reason they dont see max boost when they should?
These POS comptech units have the bypass OPEN most of the time? No wonder they don't see peak boost early. I thought with a roots, they should see full boost right at WOT, regardless of RPM. I always thought the torque on these things stunk for what they were.
Is the bypass being open the reason they dont see max boost when they should?
09-12-2014, 04:06 PM
#603
The bypass valves defaults to open and gets pulled shut via a vacuum tube going to the intake manifold. When the negative pressure in the IM becomes enough to overcome the spring holding the valve open it shuts. I am not sure of the spring rate of that spring. I can tell you that based on my meth system indicator light and on my flashpro tuning datalogs it seems you do build about 60% of your boost pretty quickly once you floor it. The remaining 40% comes in linearly as RPMs rise until redline.
Alternatively you could also go all the way up to redline without it ever closing the bypass if you just gradually brought it up to redline without flooring it. Again the negative pressure forces the valve closed against the spring.....no WOT = not enough negative pressure. Its actually pretty cool because when you are just driving normal its not kicking in (car drives normal). Its only when you get on it that it unleashes.
As i write this i wonder what happens with that bypass valve once the S/C has built up enough pressure to pressurize the IM. In theory if the IM has positive pressur ethe spring would open the bypass valve again. Woh, now i'm confused.
Alternatively you could also go all the way up to redline without it ever closing the bypass if you just gradually brought it up to redline without flooring it. Again the negative pressure forces the valve closed against the spring.....no WOT = not enough negative pressure. Its actually pretty cool because when you are just driving normal its not kicking in (car drives normal). Its only when you get on it that it unleashes.
As i write this i wonder what happens with that bypass valve once the S/C has built up enough pressure to pressurize the IM. In theory if the IM has positive pressur ethe spring would open the bypass valve again. Woh, now i'm confused.
09-12-2014, 05:29 PM
#605
Team Owner
Whoa whoa whoa whoa, stop the clock!
These POS comptech units have the bypass OPEN most of the time? No wonder they don't see peak boost early. I thought with a roots, they should see full boost right at WOT, regardless of RPM. I always thought the torque on these things stunk for what they were.
Is the bypass being open the reason they dont see max boost when they should?
These POS comptech units have the bypass OPEN most of the time? No wonder they don't see peak boost early. I thought with a roots, they should see full boost right at WOT, regardless of RPM. I always thought the torque on these things stunk for what they were.
Is the bypass being open the reason they dont see max boost when they should?
If someone with the blower could step up and figure it out, there would be a lot of happy owners. I'm sure there's some kind of restrictor or bleeder in the vacuum line going to the bypass and who knows what else.
09-12-2014, 05:33 PM
#606
Team Owner
The bypass valves defaults to open and gets pulled shut via a vacuum tube going to the intake manifold. When the negative pressure in the IM becomes enough to overcome the spring holding the valve open it shuts. I am not sure of the spring rate of that spring. I can tell you that based on my meth system indicator light and on my flashpro tuning datalogs it seems you do build about 60% of your boost pretty quickly once you floor it. The remaining 40% comes in linearly as RPMs rise until redline.
Alternatively you could also go all the way up to redline without it ever closing the bypass if you just gradually brought it up to redline without flooring it. Again the negative pressure forces the valve closed against the spring.....no WOT = not enough negative pressure. Its actually pretty cool because when you are just driving normal its not kicking in (car drives normal). Its only when you get on it that it unleashes.
As i write this i wonder what happens with that bypass valve once the S/C has built up enough pressure to pressurize the IM. In theory if the IM has positive pressur ethe spring would open the bypass valve again. Woh, now i'm confused.
Alternatively you could also go all the way up to redline without it ever closing the bypass if you just gradually brought it up to redline without flooring it. Again the negative pressure forces the valve closed against the spring.....no WOT = not enough negative pressure. Its actually pretty cool because when you are just driving normal its not kicking in (car drives normal). Its only when you get on it that it unleashes.
As i write this i wonder what happens with that bypass valve once the S/C has built up enough pressure to pressurize the IM. In theory if the IM has positive pressur ethe spring would open the bypass valve again. Woh, now i'm confused.
To test this you can disconnect the vacuum line and get into the throttle slowly and carefully to see how boost comes in. Since the blower displaces more air than the engine, be careful even at idle. There should be no problem but I would hate to hurt your car.
Last edited by I hate cars; 09-12-2014 at 05:36 PM.
09-14-2014, 07:21 PM
#607
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
I went tire shopping with my wife today and came home with these. Bridgestone s04 pole position. I'm glad we didn't go the cheap route because our lives ride on tires so why cheap out? The supercharged tl-s need this. I need this. Out with the pilots in with the potenzas
09-14-2014, 07:37 PM
#610
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
Members should take advantage of the $70 rebate from the top selling tire brand in the world. I can't wait to slap these babies on. I ditched the pilot lineup because of dry rott and wheather cracking on the sidewall and shoulders. I barely got 2 summers out of them and it was time for a change. The pilots did soo bad in the rain it was stupid. Hydroplane was always there and I never went over 60mph with them. They sucked bad.
Last edited by kingkong_dav; 09-14-2014 at 07:39 PM.
09-14-2014, 07:42 PM
#611
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
Nice tire. I have the Bridgestone potenza re970 all seasons and they perform like a summer tire. They are amazing and I'll be buying them again in the future, even if they are costly
09-14-2014, 08:59 PM
#613
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
09-14-2014, 09:14 PM
#614
Team Owner
Hankook RS3, the closest you're going to get to an R compound that's street friendly and doesn't require a lot of heat. They're nice and quiet and are turning the same times as full R compounds at the track. Grip is immense. They seem to be the standout tire this year in their version 2. The only real difference in these and a true R compound race tire is heat handling. These don't need much heat to reach full grip. The downside is they will eventually overheat on a nose heavy car like the TL after a few laps. Just as the downside of a race tire on the street is you will never get them up to full temp for best traction. For street use it would be all but impossible to overheat these tires. Not a substitute for a drag radial for drag racing but about the best all round tire you're going to find. That is, as long as 10,000 miles per set is ok. For me it's fine since 10k is 7 years and they will dry rot before they wear out.
09-14-2014, 09:57 PM
#615
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
Hankook RS3, the closest you're going to get to an R compound that's street friendly and doesn't require a lot of heat. They're nice and quiet and are turning the same times as full R compounds at the track. Grip is immense. They seem to be the standout tire this year in their version 2. The only real difference in these and a true R compound race tire is heat handling. These don't need much heat to reach full grip. The downside is they will eventually overheat on a nose heavy car like the TL after a few laps. Just as the downside of a race tire on the street is you will never get them up to full temp for best traction. For street use it would be all but impossible to overheat these tires. Not a substitute for a drag radial for drag racing but about the best all round tire you're going to find. That is, as long as 10,000 miles per set is ok. For me it's fine since 10k is 7 years and they will dry rot before they wear out.
09-14-2014, 10:52 PM
#616
Burning Brakes
I second IHC on the RS-3's they are awesome! I have them on my Integra for autocrossing, very nice tire I see alot of people running them at races ..My TL currently has Conti DW's and they have been autocrossed once and those tires held up surprisingly well.
enough about tires, hows your clutch holding up to the added power?
I see alot of people running them at races ..My TL currently has Conti DW's and they have been autocrossed once and those tires held up surprisingly well. enough about tires, hows your clutch holding up to the added power?
09-14-2014, 10:55 PM
#617
Team Owner
The following users liked this post:
paperboy42190 (09-16-2014)
09-14-2014, 11:22 PM
#618
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
My ideal tire was to dominate in wet conditions. The tire need a higher tread wear and was in a max summer tire category. The potenza s04 beat the Korean made hankook rs3 in more areas. Read car n driver tire shoot out and you'll know why I selected this tire. Plus a tire with a r compound and stock tl motor doesn't blow my mind. (I h c )
09-14-2014, 11:26 PM
#619
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
I second IHC on the RS-3's they are awesome! I have them on my Integra for autocrossing, very nice tire I see alot of people running them at races ..My TL currently has Conti DW's and they have been autocrossed once and those tires held up surprisingly well.
enough about tires, hows your clutch holding up to the added power?
I see alot of people running them at races ..My TL currently has Conti DW's and they have been autocrossed once and those tires held up surprisingly well. enough about tires, hows your clutch holding up to the added power?
Last edited by kingkong_dav; 09-14-2014 at 11:34 PM.
you're automatic?
The following users liked this post:
thisaznboi88 (09-15-2014)
09-15-2014, 10:45 AM
#623
Team Owner
My ideal tire was to dominate in wet conditions. The tire need a higher tread wear and was in a max summer tire category. The potenza s04 beat the Korean made hankook rs3 in more areas. Read car n driver tire shoot out and you'll know why I selected this tire. Plus a tire with a r compound and stock tl motor doesn't blow my mind. (I h c )
The following users liked this post:
rockstar143 (09-15-2014)
09-15-2014, 12:48 PM
#625
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
Slapped on my babies with a fresh toe adjustment. I hit the freeway and this shit was breathtaking. Woo wee this shit is a good tire.
09-15-2014, 12:56 PM
#627
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
I think you missed the best motoring time attack with a tl type s vs Lexus ls460 vs is350. Guess what? Acura tl s win. Let's go to willow I'm aspec suspension with potenzas. That's it. You have what? 220whp and 200wtq w r compond tires ? Lol
09-15-2014, 01:19 PM
#629
Team Owner
Nah, I have 209hp/183lbs and non R compound tires and I'm dead serious about running you at Willow. With 120 more hp, you can't possibly lose.... unless you just suck at driving.
09-15-2014, 01:28 PM
#630
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
Talk is cheap . 5grand name the day and rent out the track for half a day. Me and you. 320whp vs 200whp. Potenzas vs Korean tire. Sc vs n/a.
09-15-2014, 01:34 PM
#634
Moderator
09-15-2014, 01:41 PM
#635
KingKong_Dav
Thread Starter
Yeah you're right that's when I was working my old job with slow ass days. It's ok I don't want to race him at willow because I hate for him to break his piggy bank open. Lol seriously. But for someone to school me with tires when I work at a tire store for 6 years was insulting. I bought some carbon metallic brake pads. Can you say lower 60-0
The following users liked this post:
kingkong_dav (09-15-2014)
09-15-2014, 01:58 PM
#640
Team Owner
Potenza FTMFW!
Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 or RE-11A (same tires, just different available sizes). The. Best. Street Tire. Money. Can. Buy.
I do like the RS3s but I find they get "greasy" much sooner than the RE-11s do. They don't even come near the RE-11s in terms of capability and resistance to overheating. I swear, you will not find a better tire. Also helps when Costco has a sale on them
I'd place the Advan AD08s in second place. They grip 98% of what the RE-11s do, however they are slightly more forgiving when they start to lose traction- as in, you have more warning. Their downside is cost ($$$$) and they wear faster.
I'd place Toyo Proxes R1Rs in 3rd and the RS3s in a very very close 4th place. Pretty much the same rating.
In a ultra distant 5th place I'd have the Nitto Invo tires. I hated those things.
Hankook RS3, the closest you're going to get to an R compound that's street friendly and doesn't require a lot of heat. They're nice and quiet and are turning the same times as full R compounds at the track. Grip is immense. They seem to be the standout tire this year in their version 2. The only real difference in these and a true R compound race tire is heat handling. These don't need much heat to reach full grip. The downside is they will eventually overheat on a nose heavy car like the TL after a few laps. Just as the downside of a race tire on the street is you will never get them up to full temp for best traction. For street use it would be all but impossible to overheat these tires. Not a substitute for a drag radial for drag racing but about the best all round tire you're going to find. That is, as long as 10,000 miles per set is ok. For me it's fine since 10k is 7 years and they will dry rot before they wear out.
I do like the RS3s but I find they get "greasy" much sooner than the RE-11s do. They don't even come near the RE-11s in terms of capability and resistance to overheating. I swear, you will not find a better tire. Also helps when Costco has a sale on them
I'd place the Advan AD08s in second place. They grip 98% of what the RE-11s do, however they are slightly more forgiving when they start to lose traction- as in, you have more warning. Their downside is cost ($$$$) and they wear faster.
I'd place Toyo Proxes R1Rs in 3rd and the RS3s in a very very close 4th place. Pretty much the same rating.
In a ultra distant 5th place I'd have the Nitto Invo tires. I hated those things.
The following users liked this post:
kingkong_dav (09-15-2014)