Originally Posted by Mondo375

Anyone monitoring throttle position on torque pro? Was curious on what your readings are. Mine's reporting 78% at WOT with 3.7 TL shawd TB. At idle it sits at like 14%

Originally Posted by rockstar143

Sub'd

Originally Posted by kevski3oh5

Anybody ever figured out about the "bucking" problem from the swap??

Originally Posted by i_love_cars

For those thinking of doing the 3.7 IM/TB swap, I have compiled the relevant information from this thread to update this first post with.

This mod is recommended for people who are already bolted on with exhaust mods and want to take their car further, potentially with the tuning given in the new Flashpro solution for 07-08 TL's.


Estimated costs
1) ~ $500 for the 3.7 IM, TB, and hardware
2) ~ $150 for the IM cover plate if you have 04-06 TL
3) $100-150 for boring the Throttle body (optional)
4) $350 for porting and polishing lower intake runners and port-matching to the intake manifolds outlets, and gasket matching them.


Required Parts for swapping a 3.7 IM and Throttle body onto all 04-08 TL (base and Type-S)
94050-08080 NUT, FLANGE (8MM) 4 $0.19 $0.76
95701-08060-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8X60) 4 $0.88 $3.52
17105-RCJ-A01 GASKET, IN. MANIFOLD 1 $36.75 $36.75
92900-08050-3B BOLT, STUD (8X50) 4 $0.81 $3.24
17160-RK2-A00 MANIFOLD, IN. 1 $224.75 $224.75
16176-RYE-A10 GASKET, THROTTLE BODY 3 $0.47 $1.41
16400-RYE-A11 THROTTLE BODY, ELECTRONIC CONTROL (GMD8B) 1 $192.54 $192.54

90104-RCJ-A00 BOLT, SPECIAL FLANGE (6X18) -> get a few of these - you'll need 2 of them when you swap your IM cover plate to the new manifold because the 04-08 mani uses a couple of studs with nuts that are not present in the 3.7 manifold. On the 3.7 these are just bolt holes that you will want to fill with these bolts.


Additional Required Parts for 04-06 TL
17140-RKB-013 COVER, IN. MANIFOLD (UPPER) - this is the cover plate. This part # includes the cover plate gasket as well


Installation tips

1) Be very careful to NOT over-torque the IM cover plate bolts. It's very easy to snap the head on them

2) For the throttle body, you cannot use the MAP sensor from the 3.7 (the black sensor sticking out of the top of the TB), UNLESS you dremel the guides off so that your connector will fit over it. So you have two options. The first option is to swap your MAP sensor from your stock TB over to the new 3.7 TB, OR you can do as Anil (swoosh) did which is dremel out the guides on the 3.7 sensor so that your stock connector will fit, he took the following photo to illustrate this:


Some people who are using the 3.7 MAP sensor have reported smoother idle and less tip-in issues when letting off the gas.

3) air intake coupler - remember your 3.7 TB has an inlet size of slightly over 3.5" - I had to seriously fight with the rubber coupler on my AEM V2 intake to get it to slide over. It did fit and seal completely, but it was a pain in the ass. If you have a stock intake on your car, it may not have enough flex in the coupling to fully attach to the new Throttle body.

4) Relocation of IAT sensor - the 3.7 manifold doesn't have a bung for the IAT sensor. IF you have an AEM V2 intake, there is a bung for it near where the intake attaches to the throttlebody, facing the front of the car. You can't miss it. It's sole purpose is to house your IAT if you need to, so you can thread it right in.
a) IF YOU DO NOT HAVE AN AEM V2 INTAKE: you can relocate the IAT per Innacurate's thread here: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...age=3&t=803036
b) IAT location on a 2004-2006 TL is on the neck of the IM right where it mates with the Throttle body
c) IAT location on a 2007-2008 TL is on the main body of the IM


What to Expect After the Install
1) bouncy idle initially, ECU will figure it out for the most part after a few days, although again it sounds like if you use the MAP sensor from the 3.7 TB it will work itself out a bit faster and better

2) potential CEL for the relocation of your IAT sensor. This is the computer going crazy and is temporary - just have an OBD2 scanner reset the code and you should be good. I only got it once after driving 2 miles after the install. Haven't seen it since 5k miles later

3) minor bucking between 2500-3000 RPM's if you are just cruising and have your foot on the gas slightly - maybe 5% throttle. I also have noticed it in cruise control as well. A tune if you have Flashpro will fix this for sure.


Performance Gains

Weight reduced by a few pounds (3.7 manifold is magnesium and the 04-08 IM is aluminum)

Air/Fuel ratios evened out quite well with this mod - I had been previously running very rich with all my exhaust mods, around 11.4. Once the 3.7 was on and air flow was increased, it leaned out to more expected levels of 12.3 or so. Pretty good for stock ECU.

Without a port and polish, just the 3.7 IM/TB, I saw about 7 whp / 5 wtq gain, and I was already fully bolted on with exhaust, HFPC's, jpipe, and aem v2 intake. This is also without a tune. Here is my dyno chart of before/after:
Attachment 50162

It is assumed that a 3.2 TL would gain more from this mod as the 3.5 Type-S intake manifold flows more already, so the jump to the 3.7 isn't as big as it would be from the 3.2 platform.

With port and polish expect minimal gains over what I got - the 3.7 flows very well already. There are gains to be had with ported runners, though. to the tune of 5-10 whp. Also if you already have a PnP'ed intake manifold on your current 3.2 or 3.5 manifold, this swap to the 3.7 won't gain you much if anything.


Conclusion

This is a very important mod if you are planning to do an NA build on your car, or a supercharged application. If you are turbocharged, well....GTFO libert69 you already have 500 whp

It's an important mod to actually take advantage of any aftermarket CAI that you buy, and again is very important if you plan to have any work done on the heads, cams, etc.

Will benefit from a tune greatly but still offers good mid-range and top-end gains.

Originally Posted by Jay King

So with that being said if i get a AEM Cai i wont need to relocate the IAT?

Originally Posted by Jay King

Yeah it is i preciate it, what would be the best CAI?

Originally Posted by mrkingstonvi

With the J37 mods, anything 3.5" or bigger. Most popular 4" intake. Which would be custom btw.

Originally Posted by 3gtltypes

Swapped to 3.7mani TB with P2R mani spacer. Used AEM V2 as well. Having serious issues with rev hang and high idle. Took apart my top plate and noticed butterfly valve is partially open. Reused my MAP off stock TB during install. After a quick drive around town, the car threw P1683 and P0507. I reset codes with a scan tool. Drove around again and it went into limp mode after 5 minutes. Pulled over reset again in order to get back home. Will a Hondata tune be able to fix the issues I'm experiencing?

Originally Posted by 3gtltypes

As of now those are my only mods. Soon I will be installing PCD's j pipe with Tsudo straight pipe quad tip mufflers. Where is the box to eliminate rev hang?

Originally Posted by Saving4aTL

Do you drive a manual?

Originally Posted by 1black_seven

If you have the Tsudo exhaust I will buy that shit from you.EVERY goddamn supplier has been out of stock for months now and this piece of shit XLR8 system I have now is getting worse by the day

Originally Posted by 1black_seven

If you have the Tsudo exhaust I will buy that shit from you.EVERY goddamn supplier has been out of stock for months now and this piece of shit XLR8 system I have now is getting worse by the day

Originally Posted by 1black_seven

If you have the Tsudo exhaust I will buy that shit from you.EVERY goddamn supplier has been out of stock for months now and this piece of shit XLR8 system I have now is getting worse by the day