civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Once it warms up I think Im going to start removing some parts I dont need. Lighter is better

BTW, on a scale of 1-10, how difficult was it to make the sunroof plug?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

you better make me one then too... personally i could have careed less if it never did come with one

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I use mine, for the "cool" factor.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea. I may miss the tilt feature (I rarely slide it all the way back) but the weight up high wont be missed.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Since, I'm local to Inaccurate, I would like to check out his ride!!!

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

same with the tilt feature, furthest the sunshade stays open is like an inch, enough for the air to vent, even then most of the time i do use it, is during the summer when parked to vent the car, or winter when the defroster is on, to vent some of the excess heat out of the car while driving (but some Honda Access window visors be a much lighter option though)

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

My wife's 02 and my 04 both have/had tilt on the sunroofs. Yours don't? I may have miss read that but I was the same way, I've never used the sunroof in any of my cars. Ditch it lol

AtlM5

did you ever take off the door weights? if so, how much did they net?

apnorm

iTrader: (3)

^^^ door weights?

AtlM5

im pretty sure usually there are adjustable door weights that change the way the door closes...

Inaccurate

There are no weights inside the doors. I have looked. The only "dead weight" are those interior door panels. Those panels add a lot of weight to the doors. Without the interior door panels and other trim pieces, the doors are fairly light.

Inaccurate

The making of the carbon fiber sunroof plug is not too difficult. I would rate the difficulty at a 3 or 4.

Cut the fabric and mix "A" with "B" to make the epoxy. Easy (joking).

However, it is the risk that is the problem. If you were to fail, it would be a $250 mistake. The supplies (CF fabric and high-grade epoxy resin) are $250. And for an amateur like me, there is a high risk of failure in making the CF panel due to air pockets, short working time before resin hardens, improperly mixed resin, wrinkles in the fabric, positioning each layer properly, wetting each layer, entrained air bubbles in the epoxy, etc. Once you have mixed the two-part epoxy, the clock starts ticking. You must be totally prepared. No interruption from the children or wife/GF. Once a layer is laid down, you can not remove it to try again. Each of the five layers must be cut to size before starting the process. You must have everything you might need to be readily at-hand because you have no time to run around the house to look for it. You must have a "game plan" written down that you will be following because you will not have time to think "ok, what next ".

My CF panel came out nearly perfect.... a few tiny air pockets... just cosmetics. However, I was mentally prepared to make a second attempt if my first attempt failed.

If you do not want to run the risk of failure by trying it yourself, there is another option.

Anyone that has experience in laying fiberglass can make a carbon fiber plug for you (using my directions). Working with cf is identical to doing fiberglass work. I would recommend that you find someone locally that does fiberglass work. Print out my post, which I linked below, where I show how to make the plug.

How I Made My Sunroof Plug (click here)

Check the yellow pages for places that do fiberglass work . Also, check for local boat shops because they do fiberglass work too.

When you find a place, show them (or tell them over the phone of the Acurazine web link) how I did mine. Ask them if they can do it for you. I think that a fiberglass version would work as well as my carbon fiber version. The fiberglass would be much cheaper. They will need your oem glass to be used as a mold.

Be sure that they make that lip that hangs down the side of the glass. And to make the lip thick and strong. That lip is what will be used to secure and seal the plug into the roof.


For fun and grins, I have included my "game plan" below from when I made mine.





www.uscomposites.com

#FG-CFT5750 Carbon Fiber 5.7oz 2x2 Twill (3 yards)
#WEST-105A West105 Resin Quart
#WEST-207SA West207 Special Coating 0.66 Pint
#WEST-300 West System Epoxy Pumps
#REX-PVA102 Moldrelease PVA#10-16oz
#REX-224 Paste Wax Partall#2-24oz
#SQ-04 Plastic Squeeges/Spreaders 4" (5 count)
#FR-1243A Detail Roller 3/4-3" $6.90
#FR-1156A Detail Roller 1"x6" $9.95
#CON-MM032 Mix & Measure Buckets Quart (2 count)
#CON-MM080 Mix & Measure Buckets 2.5-Qt


PRICES -----
Carbon Fiber 5.7oz 2x2 Twill #FG-CFT5750 3-yrds = $130.50
105 EPOXY RESIN #WEST-105A Quart(2.9 Lbs) $30.75
207 SPECIAL COATING #WEST-207SA .66 Pint $28.10
West System Epoxy Pumps #WEST-300 $9.95
PVA # 10 Moldrelease #REX-PVA102 16oz $4.50
Partall # 2 Paste Wax #REX-224 24oz (1.5lb) $9.75
Plastic Squeeges/Spreaders #SQ-04 0.50 x 10 = $5.00
Wooden sticks #GLV-TD050 $2.00
Detail Roller #FR-1223A 1/2-3" $6.70
Mix & Measure Buckets #CON-MM016 Pint 0.40x8= 3.20
TOTAL $230.45



NEEDED -------
thick glooves (dishwashing glooves)
thin latex glooves (full box)
Masking tape 2" wide
acetone
denature alochol
plastic sheeting drop-cloth
Brush to apply PVA (count = 1)
Brush to dab resin (count = 2)
Foam brush
stir sticks
sissors
wax paper




Cut CF sheeets into panels
Cutting panels from the 50" roll x 3 yards =
1) cut roll into lenghts of a) 42" x 50" b) 42" x 50" c) 24" x 50"
2) Cut both 42"x50" panels into four panels each being 42"x25"

Thus, you should have
4 Counts of 42"x25" panels
1 Count of 50"x24" panel

Weigh the 5 panels to know how much epoxy to use
= Laying-up Weight of 5 layers (42" x 25") WITHOUT epoxy should equal = 1 lb 7 oz (+tape?)


FIRST DAY ------------------------
Remove sunroof glass
Tape the plastic sheet to roof to cover hole
wipe glass clean with alochol
Apply wax to glass.
- Wipe off wax before it dries.
- Do four times.
- Wait one hour before applying PVA.
Tape the perimeter edge of glass to bridge the gap where seal was.
Get fan to circulate fresh air
Brush on PVA.
Wait 2 hours with fan blowing it.
Apply second coat of PVA.


SECOND DAY ---------------------

Gather-up the following items before starting
Trash can
paper towel full roll
fan w/ open windows
timer
scale to weigh resin
Clipboard with paper and pen
eye glasses
10x Loupe
camera with new batts
small ladder for taking pics
thin latex glooves (full box)
Masking tape
acetone (opened already)
denature alochol (opened already)
Foam brush
rolling pan with liners (bought at Walmart)
rolling pin with spare foam rollers
stir sticks
sissors
wax paper
CF panels
Resin (opened already)
Hardener (opened already)
Pumps
Plastic Squeeges
Measure Buckets 1-Qt
Measure Buckets 2.5-Qt


Use a 1-quart container for next step
Using scale, Tare the container
Remember to count the number of pump strokes (ACTUALLY USED 30 STROKES)
Use scale to pump-out "1 lb 7-1/4 oz" (659 Grams) RESIN (1/2 quart) (approx 24 pumps) (ACTUALLY USED 30 STROKES WHICH EQUALED 618 GRAMS)
Write down the number of pump strokes that was required.
Use the large 2.5-Qt container for next step
Using scale, Tare the container
Pump out the HARDENER into the EMPTY large 2.5-Qt container. (ACTUALLY USED 30 STROKES WHICH EQUALED 176 GRAMS)
Use scale to pump-out "6-5/8 oz" (188 Grams) HARDENER while counting pump strokes too.
WORKING TIME IS EASILY 60 MINUTES, AND UPWARD TO 90 MINUTES WORKING TIME BEFORE EPOXY EVEN THINKS ABOUT FIRMING-UP !!!!
Set timer for 5 mins
Pour the pre-measured RESIN into the large 2.5-Qt container.
Mix resin for FIVE minutes.
SET TIMER FOR 60 MINUTES.
Pour epoxy into roller pan with liner.
Start Lay-up on top of sunroof glass (I USED FIVE LAYERS OF CF SHEETS)
Wet the first CF sheet on top of sunroof glass.
On later final few layers, do not add resin, use roller to wick previous resin upward into new layer.
Smooth out with foam brush. Use enough pressure to smooth the stipple, but not enough to remove any of epoxy.
SET TIMER FOR 90 MINUTES
AFTER 90 MIUNUTES, Trim the excess lay-up with scissors to be even with bottom of glass edge.
Use acetone with glooves to remove epoxy off scissors, squeegee, rollers.
SET TIMER FOR 90 MINUTES
After the 90 MINUTE wait (not sooner), mix a small batch of epoxy.
Apply epoxy over the top to fill in the weave.
Smooth out with foam brush.
Use enough pressure to smooth the stipple, but not enough to remove any of epoxy.
After 24 hours, remove glass from CF panel.
Allow to cure for three days before applying any pressure.



Finished Panel with 1" lip on each side = 39" x 20" = 0.6018 sq. yrds.
0.6018 sq. yrds x 5.7 twill x 5 layers = 1 lb 2 oz
* * * Should be using "1 lb 2 oz" of epoxy. * * *
Finished SunRoof Panel should weigh "2 lbs 4 oz" (2.25 lbs)
*** IT WAS "2 lbs 6 oz" (2.3 lbs) !!!!! *******



MISC NOTES ---------------

Use acetone to clean up epoxy.

a flexible rubber squeegee is the most effective applicator for distributing the resin.
No brushes at any time. Brushes just causes air bubbles. No need for a brush.

Final trimming - Before the epoxy has fully cured, the final trimming of the lay-up in the mold is done. This step must be done when the epoxy has stiffened some and is still slightly sticky. Depending on the type of epoxy used and the room temperature, reaching this curing state can take from one to six hours.

Pre-weigh the fabric before use, and mix only the same weight resin for laminating. This will encourage low or proper resin content within the part.

Apply the resin generously onto the surface your going to overlay and also onto your CF piece. Then place the CF piece onto whatever you're overlaying. Now put more resin onto the side of CF you didn't apply anything before.

Strength is not increased with the addition of epoxy past the point that the glass is fully wet out. Once the glass if fully wet, additional epoxy adds only two things: weight and cost.

Acetone gives epoxy a direct route to the bloodstream through the skin, and most instances of epoxy reactions/sensitivity in the surfboard and boatbuilding industries can be traced back to exposure to epoxy-contaminated acetone.






INTERESTING LINKS

Best place to order CF supplies (click here)

Carbon Fiber sunroof delete panel - Bimmerforums (click here)

Building a Carbon Fiber Greenland Paddle (click here)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_fKlDzemPY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWiSSLPf6JI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dtk818WSiU

On YouTube, there are many How-To videos for carbon fiber.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

civicdrivr has already replaced his sunroof once; and hopefully still has that cracked piece of glass around still to use as a mold

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Thanks I might try my hand at making a CF plug this summer (too cold to do it now). Now that you mention FG though, I might actually do one run with that because its cheaper and I can iron out any kinks I may run into before trying it with CF.

I still have it. It was never cracked though. The seal was ugly

Inaccurate

UPDATE

I GOT ANOTHER 18 POUNDS OFF OF THE CAR !!!!!

:gheywave::gheywave:



Weight Reduction Since Last Update
-----------------------------------------------
18.0 Firewall Insulation
--------------------------------------------
18.0 lbs NET TOTAL REMOVED









In the pics below, the yellow line is outlining the insulation that covers the entire firewall on the interior side. This insulation stretches from driver side door to the passenger side door and from the footwell to the top of the dash (near the bottom of the windshield).

To my happy surprise, this insulation is extremely heavy. The insulation ranges in thickness from approx 1/2 inch to 1 inch thick in various locations. It is made of a layer of firm rubber (black) and a layer of extremely dense foam (dull yellow).

This interior insulation accounted for the bulk of the weight loss. It was 16 lbs.




In pic below - This shows the insulation near the driver's feet.






In pic below - This shows the insulation on the driver side as the insulation extends all the way up to the bottom of the windshield.






In pic below - This shows the insulation near the passenger's feet.






In pic below - This shows the insulation on the passenger side as the insulation extends all the way up to the bottom of the windshield.






In pic below - To gain access to remove the insulation on the passenger side, the air-conditioner blower box (with blower motor) had to be removed. This WAS re-installed.






In pic below - This is the "After" pic for the driver side. The paper towel taped on the ECU is used for an Early Warning Device to alert me if the air conditioner tries to flood my ECU.






In pic below - This is the "After" pic for the passenger side.






In pics below - Just like the interior side of the firewall has insulation, so does the exterior side of the firewall. However, the exterior insulation was very lightweight. But, it was removed too based on principle.

Like the interior insulation, the exterior insulation too extends from driver side door to the passenger side door and from the bottom of the windshield to the bottom of the firewall (near the J-Pipe).










In pic below - This is the "After" pic for the exterior side. The pic was taken before re-installing the Strut Tower Bar.






In pic below - To really appreciate this effort, the pic below shows how much stuff was removed. Please note the three Coke cans used for a scale reference. Needless to say, many hours were invested to remove the insulation.










Thanks for allowing me to share my TL Diet with you !!!








ITEMIZED LIST OF WEIGHT REDUCTION
-----------------------------------------------------
84.0 Racing Seats and racing restraint system (see Warning #3 below)
44.0 Reduced fuel (buy just 3.0 gallons at a time)
40.0 Rims
36.0 Rear seat delete
34.0 Spare tire (use lightweight 12V air pump)
31.0 Sunroof delete
31.0 Interior trim & misc pieces
27.5 Braille battery
24.0 Interior Carpet
23.0 Trunk panels
22.0 Lightweight tires
18.0 Front door interior panels
18.0 Firewall Insulation
17.5 Parking brake and lever (see Warning #1 below)
17.0 Front bumper
16.0 Rear bumper
14.0 Rear door interior panels
14.0 RV6 Precat delete (incl race pipe & misc brackets)
13.0 Radio delete
13.0 Personal weight loss (attributed to this project)
12.0 Center Console
10.0 Front seat kick panels
9.0 Side curtain airbags (see Warning #2 below)
8.5 Mid muffler delete
8.5 Seatbelts for rear seat
8.0 CAI
7.5 Front damper
7.0 UR Crank pulley
6.5 Floor mats (incls driver's too)
6.0 Engine bay panels
6.0 Rear seat arm rest
5.5 Subwoofer speaker
5.5 Ground effect panels
5.5 Rear deck
5.5 Center console armrest
5.0 Headliner
4.5 XLR8 J-Pipe (incls removing misc brackets)
4.3 Shark Mouth grill (incl removed lower duct obstruction)
4.0 Reduced wiper fluid (use 1 pint at a time)
3.7 Rear seat insulation
3.7 Rear speakers
3.5 Engine cradle damper
3.5 Small airbags in front seats (see Warning #2 below)
3.5 Windshield washer reservoir (incl pint of water)
3.4 Glovebox delete
3.0 Megan pipe replacing oem 3rd cat
2.6 Cowl plastic panels
2.5 Glovebox plate
2.5 Innovative Mounts (engine mounts)
2.4 Owner manual
2.0 Roof console
2.0 Grab handles
2.0 Removed 12V air pump
1.8 Hood insulation
1.5 Trunk damper
1.5 Splash guards for front brake rotors
1.4 Kick panels under front dash
1.4 Footrest
1.2 Xm radio reciever
1.2 Airbag brackets & radio antenna booster
1.2 Trunk panel over latch
1.0 Exhaust heat shield
1.0 Rear Door Hook Pin and Catch
0.5 Coin holder & sunglass holders
0.5 Xm antenna
------------------------------------------------------------
720 Lbs TOTAL




ESTIMATED WEIGHT
------------------------------------
3580 - 720 = 2860 Lbs. Static
3580 - 942 = 2638 Lbs. Dynamic




ESTIMATED DYNAMIC WEIGHT REDUCTION
----------------------------------------------
651 Static weight loss (minus Dynamic items)
120 Dynamic weight loss from rims
105 Dynamic weight loss from UR Pulley
66 Dynamic weight loss from lightweight tires
---------------------------------------------
942 Lbs DYNAMIC TOTAL




ESTIMATED EQUIVALENT WHEEL HP WITH MODS
------------------------------------------
339 WHP (equivalent output)

Note: Assuming mods produce 250 WHP
Mods (J32A3 w/5AT) = XLR8 j-pipe, RV6 precat delete, RV6 race pipe (3rd cat delete),
Custom insulated AEM CAI w/ oversized Dryflow filter, UR Pulley undersize,
Ultimate Cooling Mod, Outlaw Engineering Thermoblock Spacer, throttle body coolant bypass.





Warning #1: Parking brake is mandatory to pass state inspection in many states.
Warning #2: Tampering with oem airbags is illegal in many states.
Warning #3: Use of aftermarket seats and/or seatbelts can cause injury or death.






-------- The TL Diet: Woo Hoo, What a Ride !!! --------

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i wounder how much more of a tin can it sounds like?


cause that insulation dampens out quite a bit of the engine noise


also have you thought about cutting out most of the hood bracing (and trunk) yet? to save some more weight? (which also means you might be able to drop down to one hood support strut instead for even more weight savings



also i see your fuse box is completely full, maybe start pulling out unneeded fuses

Inaccurate

That ship set sail a long time ago

I take it that you didn't notice this (see red arrow in pic below).





With my "iPod Integration System" (older pic below), all I hear is sweet sounds

Bearcat94

Don't know if it came up before, but I'm curious what do you plan to do with your car when you're finished using it?

Make that: finished using it as a daily driver?

AND finshed using it altogether?

Inaccurate

^
From the first day of starting the TL Diet (in 2006 when my car was less than one year old), I had planned to keep my car until it wears-out or until the insurance company totals it after a fender bender.

This topic was first discussed in this thread on 10-06-2007 (click here).

Below is a reprint -


after nearly a half of a lifetime, I have seen many valuable possession (“my precious”) come-n-go. Included in this is several automobiles. After you have driven a few automobiles from new to scrape, you will have a clear glimpse of what the future beholds. Your automobile will be scrape in approx 10 or 12 years (if not sooner because the insurance company “totaled” it from an accident), and you will have gotten another. My car is already two years old, and it has provided a ton of enjoyment in that time. We have a few more years together, and I intended to make those years as fun (to me) as possible.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

congrats!!!!

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Nice work. As for what do you do when you want to sell the car, i bought my CL new in 2002 for a lil under 30k. Now, 8 years later the car is only worth 6-7k. It isn't even worth selling it you might as well drive it into the ground.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

you know that is illegal normally, because it blocks so much of the external noises out, such as fire sirens and such

anyways i want to know when the helmet is coming?







also i know you need the A/C done in texas for the heat; BUT could you rip the heater core out (along with the weight of the coolant that fills it and the hoses) though, since it probably already gets a little toasty on the inside if you do not have the A/C on from the radiating heat
and just wear a jacket on those colder mournings

Inaccurate

^
Thanks for the heater delete idea. I will give that some thought.

Yes, I am aware of the ipod issue. If listening to an ipod while driving is illegal, does this mean that racing on the street is illegal too.

Regarding the ipod while driving, I posted about this when I first discussed the Radio Delete. Below is a reprint back from the 09-03-2008 post (click here).

If you wish to debate the safety aspects of listening to an iPod thru headphones while driving, here is an excellent place for you - "No Driving While iPodding" (click here)

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i was just mentioning the iPOD thing, just to make sure you where aware of it (and the "safety aspect" of it), obviously you are, so i am not going to mention it anymore



and NP about the heater thing; i just know on my 2g all my f@cking drinks get hot/warm in the cup holder after a while because of the radiant heat from the exhaust (and that is with a full interior too, not a stripped one)
as far as if you ever have to defrost the windshield, you might need some heat to do that, but then again i know plan air will do it too, just takes a little longer to do it though

Inaccurate

UPDATE TO MY UPDATE

friesm2000 has a good point (see quote above). I had a little concern too. After driving it today, I can say that there is no increase in noise/sound with the firewall insulation removed. Well..... that is, there is no additional increase in noise above what I had already from my stripped interior.

Part of this is probably because the firewall is not simple (thin gauge) sheet metal. The firewall is very thick for a sheet metal.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yeah i guess when you compare it to how the car was already it's insignificant, but on a relatively quiet car, it would be alot more dramatic though

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Dont know if you have switched to stainless steel lines;but there are brackets that you dont need.
.5 lbs more removed for me.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

thought about it, and put it back on.

I hate cars

I thought this would be funny. I was searching for "Project Pontihack" that I read many, many years ago but could only find this one. Pontihack was a little more extreme than the Vette. It makes Inaccurate's TL seem tame but I could see the TL looking like this one day lol.

http://hotrod.automotive.com/145803/...est/index.html

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

some import magizine did that to iirc a nissan sentra also a few years back

I hate cars

Yep but there's not 4000lbs to remove like in the Caddy. 18 second at 80mph 1/4 to 13.5 at 100mph. I still want to see Inaccurates car at the road course killing it on stock suspension with stock brakes.

3gstealth

iTrader: (2)

This has been a very well documented and informative thread, thanks Inaccurate! I have adopted a partial TL diet and was wondering if anyone knows how much weight I can shave off by picking up the rv6 v3 jpipe over the stock pieces that it replaces?

Majofo

Inaccurate

I do not know the weight of the new RV6 V3 J-pipe. However, I probably can come fairly close to estimating the weight savings.

When I installed my XLR8 J-Pipe (including removing misc brackets), I lost 4-1/2 lbs. When I replaced the oem 3rd cat with a test pipe, I lost 3 lbs.

Overall, I lost 7-1/2 lbs by removing the oem J-pipe and oem 3rd cat. However, the RV6 V3 will probably be slightly heavier than my setup because the RV6 V3 has those dual pipes extending to the rear flange.

I will estimate that the RV6 V3 J-pipe will save 6 lbs over the oem J-pipe and oem 3rd cat.

3gstealth

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Inaccurate! 6 lbs savings... I'll take it, every little bit helps! When I install my jpipe I will be sure to weigh all the pieces and post back the results.

rondog

iTrader: (1)

This thread is amazing and too long to search in, what kind of performance do you experience? And ever thought of installing a supercharger, I can't imagine what kind of power you would feel.

Inaccurate

UPDATE

I GOT ANOTHER 10 POUNDS OFF OF THE CAR !!!!!

:gheywave::gheywave:









^ PIC ABOVE = Related hardware that was removed.




Weight Reduction Since Last Update
-----------------------------------------------
9.9 Evap Charcoal Canister
--------------------------------------------
9.9 lbs NET TOTAL REMOVED





It will cause a cel, but engine performance is not affected by the cel.

I had been wanting to remove this for a long time. I had not removed it up to this point because I knew it would cause a cel. Before, I did not want a perpetual cel because I would not know if I ever did develop a real problem. However, I now have my DashDyno. With the DashDyno, I can periodically and easily check what my MIL codes are.

The gas smell is non-existent. When I removed the evap from my 1985 Iroc-z, it had a strong gas smell anytime you walked around the car. But with the TL, I smell nothing. Even in my hot garage (with doors closed), there is no smell.







Thanks for allowing me to share my TL Diet with you !!!








ITEMIZED LIST OF WEIGHT REDUCTION
-----------------------------------------------------
84.0 Racing Seats and racing restraint system (see Warning #3 below)
44.0 Reduced fuel (buy just 3.0 gallons at a time)
40.0 Rims
36.0 Rear seat delete
34.0 Spare tire (use lightweight 12V air pump)
31.0 Sunroof delete
31.0 Interior trim & misc pieces
27.5 Braille battery
24.0 Interior Carpet
23.0 Trunk panels
22.0 Lightweight tires
18.0 Front door interior panels
18.0 Firewall Insulation
17.5 Parking brake and lever (see Warning #1 below)
17.0 Front bumper
16.0 Rear bumper
14.0 Rear door interior panels
14.0 RV6 Precat delete (incl race pipe & misc brackets)
13.0 Radio delete
13.0 Personal weight loss (attributed to this project)
12.0 Center Console
10.0 Front seat kick panels
9.9 Evap Charcoal Canister (see Warning #4 below)
9.0 Side curtain airbags (see Warning #2 below)
8.5 Mid muffler delete
8.5 Seatbelts for rear seat
8.0 CAI
7.5 Front damper
7.0 UR Crank pulley
6.5 Floor mats (incls driver's too)
6.0 Engine bay panels
6.0 Rear seat arm rest
5.5 Subwoofer speaker
5.5 Ground effect panels
5.5 Rear deck
5.5 Center console armrest
5.0 Headliner
4.5 XLR8 J-Pipe (incls removing misc brackets)
4.3 Shark Mouth grill (incl removed lower duct obstruction)
4.0 Reduced wiper fluid (use 1 pint at a time)
3.7 Rear seat insulation
3.7 Rear speakers
3.5 Engine cradle damper
3.5 Small airbags in front seats (see Warning #2 below)
3.5 Windshield washer reservoir (incl pint of water)
3.4 Glovebox delete
3.0 Megan pipe replacing oem 3rd cat
2.6 Cowl plastic panels
2.5 Glovebox plate
2.5 Innovative Mounts (engine mounts)
2.4 Owner manual
2.0 Roof console
2.0 Grab handles
2.0 Removed 12V air pump
1.8 Hood insulation
1.5 Trunk damper
1.5 Splash guards for front brake rotors
1.4 Kick panels under front dash
1.4 Footrest
1.2 Xm radio reciever
1.2 Airbag brackets & radio antenna booster
1.2 Trunk panel over latch
1.0 Exhaust heat shield
1.0 Rear Door Hook Pin and Catch
0.5 Coin holder & sunglass holders
0.5 Xm antenna
------------------------------------------------------------
730.2 Lbs TOTAL




ESTIMATED WEIGHT
------------------------------------
3580 - 730 = 2850 Lbs. Static
3580 - 952 = 2628 Lbs. Dynamic




ESTIMATED DYNAMIC WEIGHT REDUCTION
----------------------------------------------
661 Static weight loss (minus Dynamic items)
120 Dynamic weight loss from rims
105 Dynamic weight loss from UR Pulley
66 Dynamic weight loss from lightweight tires
---------------------------------------------
952 Lbs DYNAMIC TOTAL




ESTIMATED EQUIVALENT WHEEL HP WITH MODS
------------------------------------------
341 WHP (equivalent output)

Note: Assuming mods produce 250 WHP
Mods (J32A3 w/5AT) = XLR8 j-pipe, RV6 precat delete, RV6 race pipe (3rd cat delete),
Custom insulated AEM CAI w/ oversized Dryflow filter, UR Pulley undersize,
Ultimate Cooling Mod, Outlaw Engineering Thermoblock Spacer, throttle body coolant bypass.





Warning #1: Parking brake is mandatory to pass state inspection in many states.
Warning #2: Tampering with oem airbags is illegal in many states.
Warning #3: Use of aftermarket seats and/or seatbelts can cause injury or death.
Warning #4: Removal of Evap will cause CEL and will fail state inspection.






-------- The TL Diet: Woo Hoo, What a Ride !!! --------

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

i have the rv6 v3 sitting around at the shop, ill weigh it for you hopefully tomorrow.

also i love this thread!

Inaccurate

Been done already (click here).

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

wow how did i miss this, lol