M-010: Putting the TL on a diet (Update Links in Post #1)

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Old 09-11-2009, 03:08 PM
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I have had no issues with the engine bay getting dirty or wet since removing the undercarriage panels. Below are two recent pics. You can see the aluminum subframe (below motor mount in first pic) is very clean after 36,000 miles and 3 years. This is 36,000 miles and 3 years of daily driving with no "days off" for bad weather. However, my daily route is clean roads, not any non-paved roads or messy roads.

BTW - I don't clean or wipe-down the aluminum subframe or undercarriage. The aluminum subframe and undercarriage is "as is". I handwash my car. So, the car has *not* ever seen any "undercarriage cleaning" from a drive-thru carwash. No dealerships either. Once my new car rolled-off of the dealership parking lot, it has never been back.



Old 09-11-2009, 04:01 PM
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so much potential in replacing those collector pipes
Old 09-12-2009, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Majofo
Originally Posted by Acura Media News
The team had only ninety days to prepare a stock TL to NASA Honda Challenge specifications. While the engine, drivetrain and brake system remained stock, the team augmented the TL's 3.2 liter V6 with a cold air intake, and a custom exhaust header from Prototype Racing. A large diameter exhaust, a lightweight flywheel and a performance clutch were provided by Comptech USA. The suspension was modified with custom H&R coil-overs, a Progress adjustable rear sway bar and adjustable SPC camber ball joints and links. Lightweight Enkei racing wheels and Toyo RA-1 race compound tires were used for increased grip. Based on the results of windtunnel testing, an Acura A-SPEC aero kit was applied to lower the coefficient of drag, and a rear wing was added for increased high speed down force. These modifications plus the removal of luxury
and convenience features reduced the TL's weight to 2797 pounds (without driver), a 675 pound reduction from the stock TL.
How in the heck did the '04 Thunderhill Acura TL team shave more than 100 lbs more than you?

I'm guessing the H&R springs helped but I can't imagine a 100 lbs on those alone though, maybe they only have one seat installed, and it looks like they might have removed the glass & regulators from the front doors.. keep us posted on your progress!

The AcuraMedia article is dated as 12/13/2004. Thus, I will assume the Thunderhill race-prepped TL was a 2005 model. The AcuraMedia article indicates that it was a 6MT. The published weight for a 2005 TL 6MT is 3482 lbs. The article states that the race team removed 675 lbs. Doing some math, we get 3482 lbs - 675 lbs = 2807 lbs. The article states that the final weight was 2797 lbs. Good deal, our numbers match.

So after some convenient rounding-off, we have the oem at 3480, the race-prepped at 2800, and the reduction at 675.

My TL Diet has an estimated reduction of 610 lbs. So, compared to their stated reduction of 675 lbs, they have me beat by 65 lbs. One place they did this was be replacing the large back window with Lexan. The article did not reveal this fact, but the pic below is where I got that info. Give me another year or two years, and I too will have the Lexan.






My TL Diet has my weight at an estimated 2970. The race-prepped is at 2800. So, they have me beat by 170 lbs. Tushay. According to the published specs, the 6MT is 93 lbs lighter than the 5AT. So, the 6MT and Lexan rear glass is mostly the difference between my TL Diet and the race-prepped TL.

One place that I have them beat is the Ultimate Cooling Mod. I see in the pic below that they did not remove the cowling.






But, on the other hand, they do have the custom vented hood.







Thanks Majofo for bringing this AcuraMedia article to my attention. I enjoyed researching it for this reply.
Old 09-12-2009, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate





I can't get over how clean that is after 3 years. The only way to do that in WI, is to keep it on the showroom floor.
Old 09-27-2009, 10:20 AM
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Have you given any consideration to my suggestion about getting aftermarket mirrors? I know ACCURATein has really small ones, you could probably save some weight there. Also, I see a lot of carpeting in the rear. You could get rid of that possibly. CF trunk and hood, the possibilities are endless.

Good luck
Old 09-27-2009, 11:23 AM
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Long thread, maybe you addressed this. Have you ever thought about having your cat deletes coated to reduce temperatures even more? I've had pretty good experience in other applications.
Old 10-05-2009, 06:09 PM
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Simply Amazing! +50 on track times!!!

I'm hooked and I'm going to TRY and go with your original plan of only taking out things that aren't noticable to the average person. Think I would notice a 75lb reduction???
Old 10-05-2009, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by apnorm
Simply Amazing! +50 on track times!!!

I'm hooked and I'm going to TRY and go with your original plan of only taking out things that aren't noticable to the average person. Think I would notice a 75lb reduction???
You won't feel the "extra" HP gained, but you'll noticeably feel smoother shifts. Each 15 LBS more in your car is 1 HP lost and vice-versa. So you'll be freeing up 5 HP.
Old 10-06-2009, 12:57 PM
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apnorm,

Will you feel any difference with a 75lb reduction? I can't say if *you* will. Each person is different in what they will notice. I will guarantee that your car will be slightly better in handling, braking, and acceleration. Just can't say if you will notice it.

I recommend that you start with the easy stuff and see if you notice. Remove the spare tire/jack, keep no more than a 1/4 tank of fuel, remove all personal clutter, etc.

Most importantly, read this (link below) from earlier in this thread.

Do Not use the Butt Dynometer to measure the performance improvements from your TL Diet (click here)
Old 10-08-2009, 04:46 PM
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I'm going to have to disagree with removing the spare tire/jack. I know it's a matter of personal preference, but on my recent drive to the States I've seen tons of shredded tires on the shoulder. While a small patch kit and pump may be enough for most situations, I'd be much more satisfied knowing that I have a full spare to ride on in case of emergency. I know that most of you have CAA/AAA memberships, but Lord knows the take their sweet time getting to you. Last two times I used CAA on my old car, they told me both times it's a 3-hour wait.

As far as noticing the weight reduced, I think it's a matter of A) How well you know your car and B) your car's weight and torque. For example, I've only had my car for 10 months now, but with only 160 horsepower and lb. ft of torque, I can feel the difference in acceleration before and after I fill up my tank all the way. However in a car like the TL, I think you'd have to remove a significant amount of weight before you feel anything.

@ Inaccurate: This may or may not be legal in your state, but what if you removed your exhaust tips? You could replace them with a small straight pipe. I don't know how much they weigh, but I think now that you've removed a lot of stuff from your car, it's time to get creative. Maybe debadge the rear completely? Front plate removal?

Think you could get a photoshoot to show us where you are currently? I know that there are photos here and there, but this thread is 16 pages long.

Anyways, keep it up!
Old 10-08-2009, 05:03 PM
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still digging this thread WAY TO GO INNACURATE
Old 10-09-2009, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AMAN1
I'm going to have to disagree with removing the spare tire/jack.
Too late!

I've taken over 45lbs so far. I'm seriously thinking about the bumpers. How easy is it to remove them? I know there's a DIY thread for the front...is there one for the rear? How easy is it to remove the bumpers?
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:00 PM
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Inaccurate, not sure if you ever got this part off for weight reduction. There is a metal plate that's clipped within the bottom steering column cover.

#10 (shown as reference for others)


It doesn't weigh all that much, but the steering wheel feels so light now when I unlock the adjustment latch. I doubt it serves any purpose other than making the steering wheel not feel "too light" (when adjusting) for your everyday consumer.
Old 10-14-2009, 10:09 PM
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dude innaccurate u should make the cf sunroof plugs and sell them. i would be down for one!!!
Old 10-14-2009, 10:22 PM
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i wish u would do this to your 02 tl
Old 10-14-2009, 11:46 PM
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^. Family car. Our daughter is using it as a DD for the time being.

I can do whatever I want to my TL, but...

My wife would to me if I messed with the family 2G TL.
Old 11-01-2009, 04:22 PM
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just skimmed through the 16 pages. is their anything else u can remover??? seems like u got everything
Old 11-01-2009, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Rajca
just skimmed through the 16 pages. is their anything else u can remover??? seems like u got everything
Inacc still has stock suspension, rotors & dash.. He can change out the suspension & rotors for weight reduction.. He could probably improvise a replacement dash cover or just remove the dash & support completely but that would completely kill the aesthetics.
Old 11-01-2009, 09:34 PM
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1) Lightwieght brake rotors (as mentioned above)
2) Rear door windows to Lexan (w/window motor delete)
3) Rear window to Lexan (my next project)
4) CF hood
5) Emission EVAP Canister (can't find a way to prevent CEL yet)
6) Things yet to be discovered that can be removed.

And I don't mean #6 as a joke. I am always thinking and eye'ing stuff on the car. A good example is the Ultimate Cooling Mod. I was looking for ways to lower my underhood temps, and in the process removed 7 pounds from the car.
Old 11-02-2009, 06:19 AM
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Are you running straight pipes after the cats on your exhaust? Sorry I haven't kept up with the thread, but you could do a muffler delete if you haven't already.

You could also do a third brake light delete, with all the wiring associated you should save a few pounds. Don't know if it's legal or safe in your area though.
Old 11-02-2009, 07:00 AM
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I have oem catback with mid muffler delete.
Old 11-02-2009, 09:02 AM
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^ I don't know how much you like the twin pipes but you could delete the Y split and make a single 2.25" out. That could shave a little bit especially going from two mufflers to one.
Old 11-02-2009, 09:21 AM
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x2 on the single exit exhaust and replace the muffler with a pipe resonator.

u could also remove the counter weights that are next to the rear motor mount. found these the other day. about 12 lbs of weight
Old 11-02-2009, 09:59 AM
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A few months ago, I looked into the possibility of a lightweight single exhaust. It is something that I would consider. Added to list.

1) Lightwieght brake rotors (as mentioned above)
2) Rear door windows to Lexan (w/window motor delete)
3) Rear window to Lexan (my next project)
4) CF hood
5) Emission EVAP Canister (can't find a way to prevent CEL yet)
6) Lightweight single exhaust
7) Things yet to be discovered that can be removed.

Originally Posted by phee
u could also remove the counter weights that are next to the rear motor mount. found these the other day. about 12 lbs of weight

Do you mean the engine cradle damper? If so, I got this already on Page 2. Thanks for the suggestion although.



Old 11-02-2009, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
A few months ago, I looked into the possibility of a lightweight single exhaust. It is something that I would consider. Added to list.

1) Lightwieght brake rotors (as mentioned above)
2) Rear door windows to Lexan (w/window motor delete)
3) Rear window to Lexan (my next project)
4) CF hood
5) Emission EVAP Canister (can't find a way to prevent CEL yet)
6) Lightweight single exhaust
7) Things yet to be discovered that can be removed.



I'm sure youve added up what the potential additional weight loss is with these future mods. What do you think you'll be down to? 2700?
Old 11-18-2009, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
A few months ago, I looked into the possibility of a lightweight single exhaust. It is something that I would consider. Added to list.

1) Lightwieght brake rotors (as mentioned above)
2) Rear door windows to Lexan (w/window motor delete)
3) Rear window to Lexan (my next project)
4) CF hood
5) Emission EVAP Canister (can't find a way to prevent CEL yet)
6) Lightweight single exhaust
7) Things yet to be discovered that can be removed.




Do you mean the engine cradle damper? If so, I got this already on Page 2. Thanks for the suggestion although.



nah. that doesnt look like it. maybe 3g's dont have it. but they are two square shaped weights on the drivers side of the rear mount
Old 11-18-2009, 10:56 AM
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I think Al (stillhere) had a singe exhaust on his TL....
Old 11-18-2009, 04:15 PM
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i know that 7th gen accords have the engine dampner cause i still have it on my car now. i'll have to take it off then.
Old 11-18-2009, 09:51 PM
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keep up the great work...
Old 12-03-2009, 08:51 PM
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1) Lightwieght brake rotors (as mentioned above)
2) Rear door windows to Lexan (w/window motor delete)
3) Rear window to Lexan (my next project)
4) CF hood
5) Emission EVAP Canister (can't find a way to prevent CEL yet)
6) Lightweight single exhaust
7) Things yet to be discovered that can be removed.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Have you considered the "MDX manifold spacer" mod? plus you get to shave out a section of your hood
Old 01-22-2010, 08:57 AM
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UPDATE ON THE BRAILLE (B14115) BATTERY

I have had my small Braille (B14115) for exactly 2-1/2 years. In that period of time, I had no problems at all with it. It never left me stranded. However, I do always respect it's limitations. If I know that the car will not be driven for over two days (just my arbitrary limit), I put a trickle charger on the little battery. Also, if I am working inside the car for a long time (more than 5 minutes) with the doors open, causing the dome light to stay on, I will put the trickle charger on it. I consider this inconvenience as a small price to pay for the weight savings.

I do recommend this small Braille (B14115) to anyone that is willing to live within it's small reserve capacity. This means not too many days without driving the car, not listening to radio with engine off, no aftermarket accessories such as car alarms that drain the battery with the engine off, etc.

On October 2009, I replaced the battery with another identical one (B14115). For a few months prior to the replacement, I was noticing the battery not spinning the starter as fast as it normally did. Knowing that the battery was over 2 years old, I took this as an "early notice" to get it replaced.

As a personal rule that was learned the hard way, I always replace auto batteries no less than once every 2 years. I replace the battery (DieHard Gold) in my wife's car once every 12 months as preventative maintenance. In the Houston heat, batteries typically don't last much longer than 2 years. So, for the little Braille to last for 2-1/2 years is superb performance.
Old 01-23-2010, 09:59 AM
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^ how much weight did you save with the braille battery?
Old 01-23-2010, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by alexSU
^ how much weight did you save with the braille battery?
almost 30lbs I believe..
Old 01-23-2010, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Majofo
almost 30lbs I believe..
is right! thanks
Old 01-23-2010, 01:54 PM
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Did you buy the Braille trickle charger? Their site says something about needing a special charger.

Originally Posted by Inaccurate
UPDATE ON THE BRAILLE (
B14115) BATTERY


I have had my small Braille (B14115) for exactly 2-1/2 years. In that period of time, I had no problems at all with it. It never left me stranded. However, I do always respect it's limitations. If I know that the car will not be driven for over two days (just my arbitrary limit), I put a trickle charger on the little battery. Also, if I am working inside the car for a long time (more than 5 minutes) with the doors open, causing the dome light to stay on, I will put the trickle charger on it. I consider this inconvenience as a small price to pay for the weight savings.

I do recommend this small Braille (B14115) to anyone that is willing to live within it's small reserve capacity. This means not too many days without driving the car, not listening to radio with engine off, no aftermarket accessories such as car alarms that drain the battery with the engine off, etc.

On October 2009, I replaced the battery with another identical one (B14115). For a few months prior to the replacement, I was noticing the battery not spinning the starter as fast as it normally did. Knowing that the battery was over 2 years old, I took this as an "early notice" to get it replaced.

As a personal rule that was learned the hard way, I always replace auto batteries no less than once every 2 years. I replace the battery (DieHard Gold) in my wife's car once every 12 months as preventative maintenance. In the Houston heat, batteries typically don't last much longer than 2 years. So, for the little Braille to last for 2-1/2 years is superb performance.
Old 01-23-2010, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by alexSU
how much weight did you save with the braille battery?
The oem battery (and related plastic cover and plastic tray) weighs 39 lbs. The Braille weighs 11.5 lbs. The difference is 27.5 lbs saved.

Originally Posted by Hi speed
Did you buy the Braille trickle charger? Their site says something about needing a special charger.
The Braille site makes hints that their charger is “special” and hinting that the Braille battery needs their “special” charger.

I don’t believe that the Braille battery needs a special charger. The car will be charging it like any other battery. So, why would I need anything different than a normal battery charger?

For the past 2-1/2 years, I have used a “Schumacher Speed Charge Model 600A” that I purchased from Walmart (see pic below). I have used it a lot. Works great and highly recommend this charger to anyone purchasing a Braille battery.

Please note that this Schumacher charger offers three charging modes or amperages. I have always used the 2-Amp charging rate when charging or trickle charging my small Braille battery. It functions as a trickle charger too.

I would assume any high quality charger would work ok. However, just be sure that the charger is able to charge at a 2-Amp rate. I would not recommend using a quick or fast charging rate, which outputs higher than 2 amps, on the small Braille battery.

The Schumacher’s web site is http://www.batterychargers.com

Walmart sells the charger (Schumacher Model 600A) for approx $30.
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...ct_id=13005743

Doing a Google, I see that it can be purchased online too from many sites, including Amazon.

Old 01-26-2010, 10:01 AM
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UPDATE

I GOT ANOTHER 68 POUNDS OFF OF THE CAR !!!!!

:gheywave::gheywave:



Weight Reduction Since Last Update
-----------------------------------------------
31.0 Interior trim & misc pieces
18.0 Front door interior panels
12.0 Center Console
5.0 Headliner
2.0 Removed 12V air pump
--------------------------------------------
68.0 lbs NET TOTAL REMOVED






























All of the listed items in the pic below were removed.












Thanks HQTL6SPD! I found and removed the metal plate from the steering column that you mentioned.







Originally Posted by csmeance (Moderator)
All members posting from this point on, read POST #1 before posting. Failure to do so may result in a ban!
Originally Posted by csmeance (Moderator)
To be honest, I'd take 5 minutes to have someone banned at this point with all the garbage and trash talk that I deleted in this thread, than clean it up time after time and have it keep on coming back; no more!




INTRO

It's now 2010. My 2006 TL is four years old. According to Edmund's, a 2006 TL has a trade-in value of approximately $15,500. And in two more years, that value will probably be $8,000. Now, I feel more comfortable to take some additional liberties with my TL Diet. No longer do I feel guilty of destroying a $30k car.



THE STORY BEHIND THE STORY

My wife and I took a 3 hour trip in my car a few weeks ago. This trip rejuvenated my desire to get rid of more weight... at any cost. For the trip, it was required that I weigh-down my car with some necessities. I had to carry a spare tire, jack, few basic tools, 3/4 tank of gasoline, and of course my wife (105 lbs). With all of the above combined, I estimate that I was carrying 200 lbs.

Initially as we started our trip, I was driving easy and did not feel the extra weight too much. Later during the trip as we were traveling on a country road with two-lanes (one lane per direction), I asked the wife's permission to wot around a slower car to pass. As I wot to pass the car, I immediately noticed how long it took for my car to reach [censored] mph. And, that left a definite impression on me - a bad impression that I will not soon forget.

After the trip as I dropped off my wife to pick-up her car (getting the 100k mile service), I drove home by myself but still had the other cargo (spare, jack, tools). Immediately after dropping off my wife (105 lbs), I noticed the lack of weight and the increased pep. This too left an impression on me of how detrimental weight is to performance.

My interior now has a Terminator motif/style. The TL Diet's mascot, the Terminator, has taken on a whole new representation for the TL Diet. Just the bare skeleton.

And as a side note, I can honesty say that I have had no regrets thus far for doing the TL Diet. On the contrary, I have enjoyed my TL more than I have any other vehicle. Well, with the exception of my GS1100 motorcycle that I had when I was in my early 20's. Even to this day, I get an adrenalin rush every moment I am driving my TL Diet. I feel my body beginning to dump adrenalin every morning and afternoon as I am about to start my daily commute. Lovin'it.

I hope to have more "TL Diet Videos" coming this summer. It has been too dark during my daily commute to make any videos over the winter.




Thanks for allowing me to share my TL Diet with you !!!


"I'll be back"... to terminate more weight !!!






ITEMIZED LIST OF WEIGHT REDUCTION
-----------------------------------------------------
84.0 Racing Seats and racing restraint system (see Warning #3 below)
44.0 Reduced fuel (buy just 3.0 gallons at a time)
40.0 Rims
36.0 Rear seat delete
34.0 Spare tire (use lightweight 12V air pump)
31.0 Sunroof delete
31.0 Interior trim & misc pieces
27.5 Braille battery
23.0 Trunk panels
22.0 Lightweight tires
18.0 Front door interior panels
17.5 Parking brake and lever (see Warning #1 below)
17.0 Front bumper
16.0 Rear bumper
14.0 Rear door interior panels
14.0 RV6 Precat delete (incl race pipe & misc brackets)
13.0 Radio delete
13.0 Personal weight loss (attributed to this project)
12.0 Center Console
10.0 Front seat kick panels
9.0 Side curtain airbags (see Warning #2 below)
8.5 Mid muffler delete
8.5 Seatbelts for rear seat
8.0 CAI
7.5 Front damper
7.0 UR Crank pulley
6.5 Floor mats (incls driver's too)
6.0 Engine bay panels
6.0 Rear seat arm rest
5.5 Subwoofer speaker
5.5 Ground effect panels
5.5 Rear deck
5.5 Center console armrest
5.0 Headliner
4.5 XLR8 J-Pipe (incls removing misc brackets)
4.3 Shark Mouth grill (incl removed lower duct obstruction)
4.0 Reduced wiper fluid (use 1 pint at a time)
3.7 Rear seat insulation
3.7 Rear speakers
3.5 Engine cradle damper
3.5 Small airbags in front seats (see Warning #2 below)
3.5 Windshield washer reservoir (incl pint of water)
3.4 Glovebox delete
3.0 Megan pipe replacing oem 3rd cat
2.6 Cowl plastic panels
2.5 Glovebox plate
2.5 Innovative Mounts (engine mounts)
2.4 Owner manual
2.0 Roof console
2.0 Grab handles
2.0 Removed 12V air pump
1.8 Hood insulation
1.5 Trunk damper
1.5 Splash guards for front brake rotors
1.4 Kick panels under front dash
1.4 Footrest
1.2 Xm radio reciever
1.2 Airbag brackets & radio antenna booster
1.2 Trunk panel over latch
1.0 Exhaust heat shield
1.0 Rear Door Hook Pin and Catch
0.5 Coin holder & sunglass holders
0.5 Xm antenna
------------------------------------------------------------
678 Lbs TOTAL




ESTIMATED WEIGHT
------------------------------------
3580 - 678 = 2902 Lbs. Static
3580 - 900 = 2680 Lbs. Dynamic




ESTIMATED DYNAMIC WEIGHT REDUCTION
----------------------------------------------
609 Static weight loss (minus Dynamic items)
120 Dynamic weight loss from rims
105 Dynamic weight loss from UR Pulley
66 Dynamic weight loss from lightweight tires
---------------------------------------------
900 Lbs DYNAMIC TOTAL




ESTIMATED EQUIVALENT WHEEL HP WITH MODS
------------------------------------------
334 WHP (equivalent output)

Note: Assuming mods produce 250 WHP
Mods (J32A3 w/5AT) = XLR8 j-pipe, RV6 precat delete, RV6 race pipe (3rd cat delete),
Custom insulated AEM CAI w/ oversized Dryflow filter, UR Pulley undersize,
Ultimate Cooling Mod, Outlaw Engineering Thermoblock Spacer, throttle body coolant bypass.





Warning #1: Parking brake is mandatory to pass state inspection in many states.
Warning #2: Tampering with oem airbags is illegal in many states.
Warning #3: Use of aftermarket seats and/or seatbelts can cause injury or death.







-------- The TL Diet: Woo Hoo, What a Ride !!! --------
Old 01-26-2010, 10:11 AM
  #638  
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
 
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damn.. lol. If I were you I'd install a hand grip on the A-Piller or door, that's just me.. I need something to hold onto sometimes. Next will be a dash delete. The dash cover only weighs ~15lbs but it's better to remove it now before it starts cracking, plus if you leave the dash frame in you can easily make a cover.

Good Job Inacc!!
Old 01-26-2010, 01:50 PM
  #639  
Burning Brakes
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lol. holy crap. that's insane...in a good way. I know this is a little counter-productive (depending on how you look at it), but any thoughts off adding a supercharger or turbo?

I have a SC and the car MOVES. I can only imagine what the SC would feel like in your car!
Old 01-26-2010, 03:21 PM
  #640  
Oderint dum metuant.
 
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Pretty soon more of your car will be in storage at the house than with you on the road . Spartan or not, I'm still impressed with what you've accomplished. This is one of very few threads I actually keep up with.


Quick Reply: M-010: Putting the TL on a diet (Update Links in Post #1)



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