I hate cars

To take it just a little further, the two piece 12.6" 4 piston Wilwoods are quite a bit lighter than the Brembos from what I hear though they are a bit overkill at the current weight.

I can't remember, but are the parking brake guts (brake shoes) removed from the rear?


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Inaccurate

Majofo,

I got my eye on these

RacingBrake Two-piece rotor (click here)




But at $600 to save approx 12 Lbs, they are on the "back burner".

-----------------------------------------------------------------

I hate cars,

The rear brake shoes for the parking brake got removed back in May 2007 (page 9). It netted 12.5 pounds.




In the pic below, this is the finished product. Just slide on the rotor and the wheel, and let's roll.

meowevil

iTrader: (1)

I love what you doing Please show us how many more weight you can take off I wish I have balls like you and willing to give up all of the features in order to increase the taste of driving

ACCURATEin

Inaccurate.. your TL and my TL probably weigh about the same. I managed to run a 14.4 at 102 on my first and only trip down a quarter mile strip. What time do you think you can put down in your TL?

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

your TL weighs 3k lbs??

chill_dog

He's done a lot of the same removals as Inaccurate, but not all; still, the things he hasn't removed are minimal weight. The fact that his car is a manual probably offsets that difference.

Inaccurate

First, let's define how I race. As a rule, I do not race top end (100+). I enjoy 1/4-mile racing. The TL Diet has it's advantages in quarter-mile racing, not top end. Once you start getting into triple digit speeds, wind resistance becomes the primary obstacle and not inertia. If I can't entice someone into a race when we are below approx 35 MPH, I call it off (no race). I do stuff like 0-60, 30-90, or 35-100.

I estimate that I was doing approx mid to low 13's before the XLR8 j-pipe. This is strictly quessing on my part based on my opponents that I have taken-down (incl some loud thumper motorcycles).

Loud Thumper Motorcycle #1 - From a red light, we both hammer it. From 0-50 mph, I pulled two car lenghts on him. Yes, he was trying because I could hear his loud exhaust WOT. I heard him give-up by the time I hit 50 mph. LOL. He knew he did not stand a chance.

Loud Thumper Motorcycle #2 - This one was quicker than the first. This was from 30-90 mph. I was pulling slowly on him. Pulled about half a length. The look on his face was priceless!!! He stared at me with shock and disbelief.

Corvette - Obliviously, it was not a Z06. My best guess is it was a 2004 Base Auto. From 30-100 mph. Clean race. I pulled two lenghts.

BMW - It was very new. I checked Bmwusa.com, and it looked similar to a 650. I remember it having a low roof, long, and big... and very attractive looking car. From 30-100 mph. Clean race. Dead tie.

Porsche - I know very little about the various models. I just know it was a Porsche, not new, not too old, and white color. From 20-60 mph. I know he was trying because he hung with me for a brief second in the beginning.....before I got into vtec. After one second of vtec, he gave-up.


Now that I have the XLR8 j-pipe..... D A M N N N !!!!! This is the single biggest boost in power of all my bolt-ons. This is just my third day with the pipe. I nearly shit in my pants with how hard it pulls with the pipe. Damnnnn. I estimate that I am at low 13's now.

BTW, I put nearly all hp to the ground with minimum spinning thanks to Black 75A IM mounts, sticky Michelin PS2 tires, and nearly no weight anywhere except over the driving wheels.

I have not updated this thread yet but I will breifly mention it now. I am at an estimated 2991 lbs Static and 2769 lbs Dynamic.

Here is an updated chart. I added a new column that illustrates how much hp an oem TL would need to match the "TL Diet plus engine mods". In the past, the chart just showed how much hp an oem TL would need to match the wieght reduction (without including my engine mods). For the engine mod calculations, I just bumped the oem hp numbers by an additional 20 hp.

Let's look at an estimated torque peak. For rough estimates, let's say that the torque peaks at 5250. Now, we can get torque numbers from my HP Chart because torque always equal HP at 5250 RPM (by definition). The oem would produce 199 ft.lbs. and the "TL Diet plus engine mods" would produce 283 ft.lbs.

Majofo

^ if you say it pulls hard in this shitty 100+ Texas weather I could only imagine what it'll be like in the fall..



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DC3328

iTrader: (22)

there havent been any updates in a while, is there nothing else to do? lol

Inaccurate

LOL ! Plenty to do !!!

Soon. Very soon.

Eoanou

The only thing you need to adjust in your numbers is that your own personal weight loss shouldn't knock off a few lbs on the 3580 curb weight as that weight is calculated without a driver, lol.

Inaccurate

TO EOANOU -
Thanks for the polite advice. I know that you are trying to help and I appreciate that.

TO ALL READERS -
Fair play. Look how many times someone posted the rude comment "How about eating less and losing some weight?" in this thread. Fair turnaround, the number stays. It was the TL Diet that gave me the strength to lose that weight and to keep it off. After all, the personal weight loss is still "less ballast".

Although the many comments regarding personal weight loss in this thread were meant in a rude fashion, it is true. The way I view it, ballast is ballast. Anything that can be done to lessen the ballast is the goal. Whether it be from the car body or my body.

Inaccurate

To clarify, Eoanou was not one of those (that I mentioned) being rude. He meant to be helpful and brought-up a valid point.

Eoanou

Yes, I am trying to make the point that when the curb weight is calculated they use a specific methodology for calculating it, it includes a full tank of gas, and all the required fluids etc. The point I was trying to make was that if you were to subtract something that isn't used in the stock curb weight calculation it shouldn't be subtracted from 3580lb number.

So me saying I wore no shoes today shouldn't mean the car weighs 3578lbs now.


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Opel

what do you care man..... they make such comments only because they dont have the balls to start stripping the TL as they feel they paid for it, so they should have every bolt and nut it comes with, still attached to it, so they start calling u out on it, or anyone else for that matter, as a stupid thing to do, because it doesnt apply to their belief system,for one.

2nd, the ingorance behind the weight and car relation...

you mention weight reduction to someone...first thing you get is....why man? for what? whats 10 lbs gonna do? whats 100 lbs gonna do? just so u can go a tad faster?

^^^^^^^^^^^^ thats pure ignorance in my book...

less weight means so much more than just speed... breaking, handling, feel, steering response.... ur drivetrain becomes even stronger because of the weight reduced... ur tranny alone takes a less of beating to move 3000 lbs from 3500... ur axles, ur clutch... even hitting a bump or pothole isn't the same for ur lower control arms when there's 3000 lbs on top of them, rather then 3500...ur shocks...ur bushings....and just everything in between....

when u mention to someone that ur removing a 20 lbs smth from ur car...theyll say, what diff is it gonna make? its only 20 lbs!!! those are the ppl that suffer from "limited sense of possibilities".... thats how they go about everything else...thats their attitude..."what diff is it gonna make"

after all this is a hobby...and if it means that someone wants to "pluck all the feathers" off the TL...then be it...

if i had the choice between 3000 lbs car with 250 whp or 3500 lbs with 291 whp.... id take the first...

please note that, power-to-weight ration is the same for both
but the benefits stand for the first, far ahead.

cheers:::

I hate cars

Damn, this sounds exactly like my posts about 100 pages ago. My Acurazine twin lol.

Eoanou

Oh, and as far as how quick I think the TL diet will be, I think you will be a 13.8 at 104mph.

If I recall correctly the only performance mods you have is an Intake, upgraded J-pipe, lightweight wheels and tires (Yes, they will give more WHP as the drivetrain loss is decreased)** and a Test pipe. I would assume you would have approximately 240whp or so (Keep in mind the stock TL A/T has about 220WHP).



**I just want to mention this in case anyone asks. I said that he will see an increase in WHP due to the weight reduction on his wheels and tires, as that will decrease drivetrain loss. Note that it isn't increasing the power the motor makes all he is doing is decreasing the power loss attributed to heavier wheels, which is why a increase of power to the wheels is realized.

Opel

man, i hope they let you run without a parachute! loll

near sea levels...i think you will crack 13s

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The AT stock puts down about 200-205 WHP, the 6 speed is the one thats 220 WHP.

Less weight doesn't increase WHP much even with the light weight wheels. Aside from the wheels the drivetrain remains the same weight as stock requiring the same amount of power to run.

csmeance

All members posting from this point on, read POST #1 before posting. Failure to do so may result in a ban!

Majofo

nice cleanup!..

csmeance

getting rid of 11 pages worth of posts took me nearly an hour and a half! To be honest, I'd take 5 minutes to have someone banned at this point with all the garbage and trash talk that I deleted in this thread, than clean it up time after time and have it keep on coming back; no more!

type-s'er

you could also remove the headrests on top of all the seats

Majofo

lol... He removed his stock seats already and installed OMP racing seats w/ 6 point harnesses.. Removing the headrest is a safety issue as well. The force of your head snapping back in a small rear end accident is great and without a headrest, very serious injury could occur. Sure you could argue that safety is not an issue since so many safety items have been removed but I feel the headrest is as mandatory as seatbelts.. the new seats cut ~80 lbs and are a definite improvement in the safety arena.

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

always amusing to see the progress.

conmanwi

I can't wait to see what times you put up!

rp_guy

you've taken out the mid-muffler, but what about the axle-back? i recently removed mine (on the CL), but since there is still a resonator, the sound is not raspy and can take out about another 10-20lbs from the rear of the car (and you can add dumps or straight pipes out the back)

Majofo

We have two cans.. and only one can be unbolted so It would probably save more weight to remove the Y-pipe and do a single out.. I think it's ricey but for the greater good.. lol. Doesn't seem like a bad idea though.. any comments?

edit: Inacc.. you straight piped the 3rd cat & mid-muffler but still have the precats in right? otherwise there could be too little backpressure for the low end.. just a thought.

Inaccurate

UPDATE

I GOT ANOTHER 45 POUNDS OFF OF THE CAR !!!!!

:gheywave::gheywave:



Weight Reduction Since Last Update
-----------------------------------------------
14.0 Rear door interior panels
14.0 RV6 Precat delete (incl race pipe & misc brackets)
4.5 XLR8 J-Pipe (incls misc brackets)
4.3 "The Shark Mouth" Grill (link)
3.5 Windsheild washer resevior (incl pint of water)
2.6 The Ultimate Cooling Mod (link)
1.2 Trunk plastic panel over latch
1.0 Rear Door Hook Pin and Catch
--------------------------------------------
45 Lbs. NET TOTAL REMOVED



Removed rear door interior panels







When the weather gets cold, I will spend some time in the garage to install closed-cell foam (see pic below) in place of the rear door panels.





RV6 Precat delete







Remove misc heatshield during precat delete installation.






"The Shark Mouth" Grill (link)





The Ultimate Cooling Mod (link)





Removed trunk plastic panel over latch






Removed "Rear Door Hook Pin and Catch"







I was not able to find the official purpose of the "Rear Door Hook Pin and Catch". Based on the heavy construction, it is my opinion that it is designed to add structural strength during a severe collision. Warning: Do not remove this item if you ever intend to have passenger in the rear seat.





Thanks for allowing me to share my TL Diet with you !!!


"I'll be back"... to terminate more weight !!!





ITEMIZED LIST OF WEIGHT REDUCTION
-----------------------------------------------------
84.0 Racing Seats and racing restraint system (see Warning #3 below)
44.0 Reduced fuel (buy just 3.0 gallons at a time)
40.0 Rims
36.0 Rear seat delete
34.0 Spare tire (use lightweight 12V air pump)
31.0 Sunroof delete
27.5 Braille battery
23.0 Trunk panels
22.0 Lightweight tires
17.5 Parking brake and lever (see Warning #1 below)
17.0 Front bumper
16.0 Rear bumper
14.0 Rear door interior panels
14.0 RV6 Precat delete (incl race pipe & misc brackets)
13.0 Radio delete
13.0 Personal weight loss (attributed to this project)
10.0 Front seat kick panels
9.0 Side curtain airbags (see Warning #2 below)
8.5 Mid muffler delete
8.5 Seatbelts for rear seat
8.0 CAI
7.5 Front damper
7.0 UR Crank pulley
6.5 Floor mats (incls driver's too)
6.0 Engine bay panels
6.0 Rear seat arm rest
5.5 Subwoofer speaker
5.5 Ground effect panels
5.5 Rear deck
5.5 Center console armrest
4.5 XLR8 J-Pipe (incls removing misc brackets)
4.3 Shark Mouth grill (incl removed lower duct obstruction)
4.0 Reduced wiper fluid (use 1 pint at a time)
3.7 Rear seat insulation
3.7 Rear speakers
3.5 Engine cradle damper
3.5 Small airbags in front seats (see Warning #2 below)
3.5 Windshield washer reservoir (incl pint of water)
3.4 Glovebox delete
3.0 Megan pipe replacing oem 3rd cat
2.6 Cowl plastic panels
2.5 Glovebox plate
2.5 Innovative Mounts (engine mounts)
2.4 Owner manual
2.0 Roof console
2.0 Grab handles
1.8 Hood insulation
1.5 Trunk damper
1.5 Splash guards for front brake rotors
1.4 Kick panels under front dash
1.4 Footrest
1.2 Xm radio reciever
1.2 Airbag brackets & radio antenna booster
1.2 Trunk panel over latch
1.0 Exhaust heat shield
1.0 Rear Door Hook Pin and Catch
0.5 Coin holder & sunglass holders
0.5 Xm antenna
------------------------------------------------------------
610 Lbs TOTAL





ESTIMATED WEIGHT
--------------------
2970 Lbs. Static
2748 Lbs. Dynamic



ESTIMATED DYNAMIC WEIGHT REDUCTION
----------------------------------------------
541 Static weight loss
120 Dynamic weight loss from rims
105 Dynamic weight loss from UR Pulley
66 Dynamic weight loss from lightweight tires
---------------------------------------------
832 Lbs DYNAMIC TOTAL




EQUIVALENT CRANK HP
------------------------------------
Power (SAE net at the crank) = 336 HP (equivalent output)
Torque (SAE net at the crank) = 304 FT/LBS (equivalent output)



EQUIVALENT WHEEL HP WITH MODS
------------------------------------------
Assuming mods produce 250 WHP
326 WHP (equivalent output)

Mods (J32A3 w/5AT) = XLR8 j-pipe, RV6 precat delete, RV6 race pipe (3rd cat delete),
Custom insulated AEM CAI w/ oversized Dryflow filter, UR Pulley undersize,
Ultimate Cooling Mod, Outlaw Engineering Thermoblock Spacer, throttle body coolant bypass.



Note: This is not just a peak hp increase. This is
a 30.3% increase across the entire rpm range
for both the HP and TORQUE power curves.


Warning #1: Parking brake is mandatory to pass state inspection in many states.
Warning #2: Tampering with oem airbags is illegal in many states.
Warning #3: Use of aftermarket seats and/or seatbelts can cause injury or death.






-------- The TL Diet: Woo Hoo, What a Ride !!! --------

Majofo

wow.. I'm surprised you haven't already removed the rear door panels.. Any add'l noise, vibration with panel & hook pin out? Also did you cross the window control harness connector so the connection isn't open?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

I was hanging out at a performance shop and they not only removed the rear door panel but all they have is the skin, they cut the frame out also... and they used 3m window weld to keep the windows up...

my idea is not to go that drastic, but just removing the rear window motors whats that gonna net

car I speak of ran 11.6 second quarter mile at 250hp (k24)... 95 civic hatchback

Majofo

damn... I would have just used lexan..

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Nice!

Now take off the front bumper, back bumper, side skirts, and go to the track and you'll truly be a sleeper

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

i demand satisfaction! no more until you take it to a track!!!

Inaccurate

You just don't understand.
That Terminator is out there.
It can't be bargained with, it can't be reasoned with.
It doesn't feel pity or remorse or fear
and it absolutely will not stop, ever,
until all of the dead weight has been terminated.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

I think tracks put you in a different class if you use lexan...

Aman

Have you considered aftermarket mirrors? I believe ACCURATein has some, they're pretty small and square, wondering how many pounds you can shave from that.

phee

iTrader: (5)

also. i see you have your plastic cowling in the trunk. as well as the black mats that are sound deadening. those can come off

Inaccurate

The Pin-and-Catch is free floating. That is, the pin makes no contact (and never has) with the catch bracket. I examined the parts with a magnifying glass for any wear marks. There were no wear marks. This makes me think that the parts are "on standby" in the event of a severe collision. Then the pin would be caught by the catch bracket to aid structural strength (preventing the rear door from slipping out of it's frame). Just my theory.

Because the pin normally never touches the catch bracket, there is not any door alignment issues nor vibration/noise issues with the Pin-and-Catch removed.

I have no back seating accommodations. For others, I do *not* recommend having the Pin-and-Catch removed.

Also, there is *no* additional noise from having the panels removed. I too thought that there would be a small amount of noise with the panels removed. But happly, there is *no* additional noise.

Nothing special was done. I just unplugged the connector and tested the functionality. All four doors lock/unlock via remote and master switch (driver). The automatic lock/unlock feature still works too for all four doors when the trans is placed in Drive/Park. Good deal. I then proceed to remove the panels. Never had to do anything to the connectors after I unplugged the connectors from the panels.

NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

Quick question. By removing those plastic, under carriage covers, did you notice any slight increase in sediments in your engine bay? Or am I just over thinking things?