Group Buy for JnR ECU - Dyno's/Gains (12/23); Prices Posted (1/7)
#2001
takin care of Business in
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^^^
i apologize man....i posted that up from the top of my head....i didnt have the orders excel open in front of me....
now that I have it open, you will be getting yours, along with Feji and Justn
i apologize man....i posted that up from the top of my head....i didnt have the orders excel open in front of me....
now that I have it open, you will be getting yours, along with Feji and Justn
#2002
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
Well i recieved my "package" today but it was only a fuel Pump assembly pictures below... Texted Rodney and he said the Injectors were shipped but in a different box that i did not get a tracking number for... This is getting too out of hand.. The ECU was not shipped... I could've bought the injectors and pumps back in December but instead i decided to buy it throw Rodney cuz I was already buying the ECU... This is just bullshit... I wanted my ECU months ago...
The box was shipped from P2R and the Aeromotive 340lph (11142) pump was installed in what looks like a used assembly.. I know this was all tested but theres no reason the assembly should be dirty and still had gas that spilled out on me when i took it out... And the pump is just held in by ZIPTIES... Wont the gasoline eventually eat the ziptie??
The box was shipped from P2R and the Aeromotive 340lph (11142) pump was installed in what looks like a used assembly.. I know this was all tested but theres no reason the assembly should be dirty and still had gas that spilled out on me when i took it out... And the pump is just held in by ZIPTIES... Wont the gasoline eventually eat the ziptie??
Last edited by InFaMouSLink; 05-18-2012 at 04:57 PM.
#2003
Three Wheelin'
Can you hold off on dropping that pump in the tank until I see it?
Not because I wanna get one, but because I wanna take a look at that FPR, and the unit as a whole.
Not because I wanna get one, but because I wanna take a look at that FPR, and the unit as a whole.
#2005
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
I have mine mounted under the passenger seat. I had to remove the little plastic hook that keeps the carpet in place to get the ECU far enough under the seat. My thinking was that the stock ECU is on the passenger side and it was a straight shot. I would have mounted it where KN and Libert did in the passenger footwell, but I asked for the extended harness before I knew how it would fit. I think the footwell is the better location especialy if it doesn't stick out. Here are some questionable pics I took and better ones from another members install.
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FCVadi (05-19-2012)
#2006
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^^^ so do you have the ECU under the seat or in the passenger footwell ???
Alex,
I feel you bro....I am getting a little tired of waiting as well, but am hoping everything comes as I expect....
Alex,
I feel you bro....I am getting a little tired of waiting as well, but am hoping everything comes as I expect....
#2007
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
No fuck that. I barely drive my car. Its almost june already and I've had it torn apart waiting for these parts for a few weeks.. if I don't have everything by june 1st, ima just forget about this shit get a refund... its not fun anymore so I just dgaf about it. Its getting to be a pain in my ass instead of enjoying. The AEM FIC could do the shit I need to run my s/c and its almost 1000 cheaper and I WOULD'VE HAD IT BY NOW
#2008
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
Alex: Listen man. Just give up.....and sell all your parts to me!
#2009
Three Wheelin'
No fuck that. I barely drive my car. Its almost june already and I've had it torn apart waiting for these parts for a few weeks.. if I don't have everything by june 1st, ima just forget about this shit get a refund... its not fun anymore so I just dgaf about it. Its getting to be a pain in my ass instead of enjoying. The AEM FIC could do the shit I need to run my s/c and its almost 1000 cheaper and I WOULD'VE HAD IT BY NOW
#2011
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Opel and Alex,
What are the things you gotta look for in a fuel pump ??? I ordered the same fuel pump but just wanted to make sure I can check it as Alex did....
What are the things you gotta look for in a fuel pump ??? I ordered the same fuel pump but just wanted to make sure I can check it as Alex did....
#2012
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
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OK i so played a little more with the fuel assembly and the Zip tie that is holding the fuel pump in horizontally is preventing the 2 "plungers" to go down.. Right side next to thumb...
#2013
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
Oh and as a FYI, this isn't a whole assembly with the sender unit. You must reuse the one in the vehicle..
http://estore.honda.com/acura/parts/...=&b=B++03&dl=#
tomorrow im am goingto finish wiring up my fuel pressure gauge and get some test PSI readings before adding this in my tank...
http://estore.honda.com/acura/parts/...=&b=B++03&dl=#
tomorrow im am goingto finish wiring up my fuel pressure gauge and get some test PSI readings before adding this in my tank...
#2015
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^^^ Alex, can you please make a DIY or some like that ?
#2018
TimmieT
just unplugged my j&r ecu, afr was saying i was running too rich. maxing out my aem uego gauge. was reading 11.1, car was gettin way too much fuel. maybe the wrong basemap?
#2021
TimmieT
calibrated with tuner studio i assume? there is no way to "Free air Calibrate" the AEM UEGO 30-410. i have yet to run tunerstudio, rodney was saying i needed the new .ini file for the ecu definition, if anyone would like to kindly e-mail it to me please
tpinthirath@gmail.com
tpinthirath@gmail.com
#2022
Three Wheelin'
Maybe you guys need to dump the AEM stuff and pick up an Innovate MTX-L or LC-1 .
I read nothing but problems with AEM, yet everyone's still on the bandwagon
I read nothing but problems with AEM, yet everyone's still on the bandwagon
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laosthaha (05-19-2012)
#2024
TimmieT
wait, u can actually calibrate the aem gauge. my wide-band sensor is welded on the 10 o'clock position. but the gauge is set to the 2 o'clock position(default). i hope changing that helps,
#2025
Three Wheelin'
I haven't found the motivation to drop the heads, bcs if I do, then I'm gonna wanna tune right after.
Thats why i tried to stop you from installing it, just yet! lol.... its hard to see stuff like that in the pics, but thats what I wanted to look at bcs i thought I saw something funny, and then find out WHY?
#2026
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
??? gauge or sensor.. The sensor should be at a minimum of 10degree angle from the 3 o'clock position( or 9) and gauge should be on P0... read page 7 and 8 of this >
http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-4100.pdf
#2027
Three Wheelin'
...To add some more to the FPR...why does this need to be crushed? This was done to archive a bit higher pressure off the stock pump with the S/C application, which is very primitive. But now, having a pump able to supply more pressure, and still do this?
Is there any numbers/specs on this pump vs. stock pump?
I think my FPR has gone bad. I never used to smell my exhaust through normal driving, but now I do. I'm running rich down low. On that note, now maybe I'll fix my LC-1 lol
Is there any numbers/specs on this pump vs. stock pump?
I think my FPR has gone bad. I never used to smell my exhaust through normal driving, but now I do. I'm running rich down low. On that note, now maybe I'll fix my LC-1 lol
#2028
TimmieT
??? gauge or sensor.. The sensor should be at a minimum of 10degree angle from the 3 o'clock position( or 9) and gauge should be on P0... read page 7 and 8 of this >
http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-4100.pdf
http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-4100.pdf
#2029
TimmieT
which setting do you guys recommend ?
Configuring Calibration Outputs
If a different O2 sensor calibration is desired, the AEM calibration can be changed to
one of three available. The AEM default position is (P0) if an AFR Gauge was
purchased and (P1) if a Lambda Gauge was purchased. These settings implement a
linear calibration with the most useful voltage range possible (0-5V). The AFR
calibration (P2) is linear and similar to (P1) with a slightly smaller voltage range (1-2V).
The AFR calibration (P3) emulates the Autronic Wideband O2 Sensor calibration (0-1V).
The AFR calibration (P4) emulates a non-linear Nernst Cell calibration (0-1V). Refer to
the Table and Graph for specific calibration details.
Configuring Calibration Outputs
If a different O2 sensor calibration is desired, the AEM calibration can be changed to
one of three available. The AEM default position is (P0) if an AFR Gauge was
purchased and (P1) if a Lambda Gauge was purchased. These settings implement a
linear calibration with the most useful voltage range possible (0-5V). The AFR
calibration (P2) is linear and similar to (P1) with a slightly smaller voltage range (1-2V).
The AFR calibration (P3) emulates the Autronic Wideband O2 Sensor calibration (0-1V).
The AFR calibration (P4) emulates a non-linear Nernst Cell calibration (0-1V). Refer to
the Table and Graph for specific calibration details.
#2030
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#2034
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
@laosthaha
If you are concerned about your wideband reading way out of range, unplug the ECU and run it stock. What do you get? The AEM's are factory calibrated so unfortunately there isn't anything you can do about that. I left the jumper on the factory setting and just use the 0-5 AEM selection in the AFR/EGO control config under the Fuel tab.
Did Rodney tell you what version is loaded in your ECU? You can get the INI from the ms3efi site. If you post up a screenshot of the mismatch error, I can point you in the right direction.
If you are concerned about your wideband reading way out of range, unplug the ECU and run it stock. What do you get? The AEM's are factory calibrated so unfortunately there isn't anything you can do about that. I left the jumper on the factory setting and just use the 0-5 AEM selection in the AFR/EGO control config under the Fuel tab.
Did Rodney tell you what version is loaded in your ECU? You can get the INI from the ms3efi site. If you post up a screenshot of the mismatch error, I can point you in the right direction.
#2037
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
went to a car meet yesterday, they had a dyno available...so i took the opportunity to see what a $1400 ECU would do for me.
one of the main reasons why i made the 2 hour drive was to dyno my car. it's a 07 TL-S fully bolted...(aemV2, UR pulley, v3 pcds, v3 jpipe, xlr8 quad exhaust, JnR ECU)...and i was hoping to be somewhere close to 300whp.
after the dyno, final numbers were 186.3 whp and 156.4 torque. i expected 100 more whp, so...either the JnR ECU is jacked up, and/or their dyno was WAY off base. i don't know what to think. but i am disappointed to say the least...and i'm searching for answers. plenty of other cars dyno'd that day and put down great numbers. like a turbo g35 put down 404whp...so how the hell do i put down what a base AT TL with NO modifications puts down stock? makes no sense...and i'm thinking the JnR ECU is to blame. i wish i would have did a run or 2 with it unplugged, but we ran out of time. i think the base map i was supplied with is nowhere near where it should be for my car. my suggestion, anyone running the JnR ECU...get it professionaly tuned for YOUR CAR. don't just plug in and go. get it tuned safely. i have unplugged mine for the time being until i get my AFR guage mounted/knock monitor hooked up and then i'm going to get it tuned at a shop. i'm done with this BS. the tuner behind the wheel said my car was pulling A LOT of timing and he is pretty sure he heard knock during the high RPM wot runs. <-that has JnR written all over it. i am starting to regret my purchase...and feel as tho i was mislead during the group buy. i hope to put my mind at ease after i get everything tuned responsibly. but for now, i'm pissed i wasted $50 and got bunk numbers.
i'd like to see what my car would do without the JnR ECU hooked up.
i am waiting for the videos to upload to YouTube and then i'll post them. shit is taking forever this morning.
one of the main reasons why i made the 2 hour drive was to dyno my car. it's a 07 TL-S fully bolted...(aemV2, UR pulley, v3 pcds, v3 jpipe, xlr8 quad exhaust, JnR ECU)...and i was hoping to be somewhere close to 300whp.
after the dyno, final numbers were 186.3 whp and 156.4 torque. i expected 100 more whp, so...either the JnR ECU is jacked up, and/or their dyno was WAY off base. i don't know what to think. but i am disappointed to say the least...and i'm searching for answers. plenty of other cars dyno'd that day and put down great numbers. like a turbo g35 put down 404whp...so how the hell do i put down what a base AT TL with NO modifications puts down stock? makes no sense...and i'm thinking the JnR ECU is to blame. i wish i would have did a run or 2 with it unplugged, but we ran out of time. i think the base map i was supplied with is nowhere near where it should be for my car. my suggestion, anyone running the JnR ECU...get it professionaly tuned for YOUR CAR. don't just plug in and go. get it tuned safely. i have unplugged mine for the time being until i get my AFR guage mounted/knock monitor hooked up and then i'm going to get it tuned at a shop. i'm done with this BS. the tuner behind the wheel said my car was pulling A LOT of timing and he is pretty sure he heard knock during the high RPM wot runs. <-that has JnR written all over it. i am starting to regret my purchase...and feel as tho i was mislead during the group buy. i hope to put my mind at ease after i get everything tuned responsibly. but for now, i'm pissed i wasted $50 and got bunk numbers.
i'd like to see what my car would do without the JnR ECU hooked up.
i am waiting for the videos to upload to YouTube and then i'll post them. shit is taking forever this morning.
#2038
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
^ i think that dyno was completely out of wack... even for a turbo g,404 seems low... they didn't set something up properly... you would've felt the difference just connecting the ECU. RWD/FWD/gear done at... waiting for video...
#2039
Race Director
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That dyno is missing a lot of info too. What was the temperature?
#2040
takin care of Business in
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I communicated on the forums what Rodney told me to....
did i mislead anybody ?
HELL YEAH....including myself....
If i had my ECU back in Jan and kept telling people ohh another 2 days, i would be at fault....I have made a payment before anyone else on the GB (except Alex) and I am still waiting on my stuff....to an extend I told Rodney to ship out my ECU to someone else who cant wait....do i need my stuff, FUCK YEAH....but do i come on the forum flaming people ? NO !!!
Bert, you gotta know better than this....I told Rodney to say a turn around time of 3 months (to avoid any problems) and he was adamant to put it 3 weeks.....i really asked him to put 1.5 months.....as if you ship it before the ETA, everyone is happy.....if you ship it after the ETA, people like you come flaming the messenger....
Either way, i can understand your frustration....you might be waiting for your car to get back from Rodneys....Good luck with that and dont blow the engine this time.....
gonna post exactly what i posted in your thread
Aaron, sorry i cudnt help you more on text....but i gaurantee something was messed up with the dyno....as i remember you posting that you felt a lot more power through out the power band with the ECU installed....i know that was the butt dyno but hey i think you would have felt a difference if you lost 50HP....
Chad, Base MT dyno's around 220-ish and base AT dynos around 210-ish
I def think there is something wrong with the dyno....you should have been closer to +100 (on the figures) on the dyno....
EDIT: what gear did they run in, i wont be surprised if they ran her in 4th as compared to 3rd....
Chad, Base MT dyno's around 220-ish and base AT dynos around 210-ish
I def think there is something wrong with the dyno....you should have been closer to +100 (on the figures) on the dyno....
EDIT: what gear did they run in, i wont be surprised if they ran her in 4th as compared to 3rd....