sixsixfour

c'mon guys the suspense is killing me too

scv76_

Rats...thought my led DRL's might be here today...NOT!!!!
Maybe this week
I will be sure to post up pics no matter what they look like

sixsixfour

any updates?

jdmturbosol

hopefully your drl led's work for the people trying them
like I posted before
the acura wiring in my car will not let you use led's without repinning your bulbs plug

Bearcat94

https://acurazine.com/forums/dating-relationships-14/lying-girls-144020/#post1873837

scv76_

Wooohoo....it's play time this weekend!!

sixsixfour

how did you pay for them? my friend and I have been trying to buy from their site and their paypal seems to be not working.

timmahh

i'm super excited!!

scv76_

Ordered them on 1-4-08 using paypal..
Didn't hear from them for a few days......Paypal reported the payment almost immediately, but didn't get confirmation from vled for a few days

TeknoKing

stop teasing!!! install, show pix

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

You guys are still talking about this?? OK but my car is a 2006....But I did 9006 SMT LEDs but I have had them on for a long ass time. You gotta ask the LED master! LEDd and HIDd out! Not a single regular bulb left on my car!

Bearcat94

^^



Now you tell us.

So, you used a bulb similar to the one pictured on this page? Source, Spec and Price?

And this bulb sucessfully avoids the piss yellow stock DRL without throwing a dummy light in the dash cluster?


And why is your DRL on with your headlight?

sunny201

He has an 06.. those are his foglights that are on with his headlights.

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I'm one of those knuckleheads that never understood the point of why there are fog-lights in the headlight housing. I'd rather have DRLs. So I used the DesignTech module (outlined in another thread) and used these bulbs:

http://frickinbrite.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=372

I put in Accord fogs at the bottom to make up for it. The LED bulbs give out a really nice 6000kish HID look without the cost. They are not meant to be too bright. These are no match for output of true HID or halogens and have much lower output.

I can't use HIDs as DRLs with that module because they deliver 75% power in the daytime DRL mode. And 3 sets of HIDs on my car would just be crazy! The new bulbs are more like "fill-in" lights. So in the daytime they are not as bright as my old bulbs or your stock DRLs. But that being said they're the brightest and best ones on the market right now.

If output is more important than color don't do them. If you are more interested in a color match with a tradeoff in output, it's the way to go. I like em.

Bearcat94

For me, rocky, it's about color and not having a dummy light in the dash. So if they'll ignite properly, maintain the intent of the safety feature and not light off the dash "DRL" warning, it's good by me.

Still wanna see 'em in an '07/'08 though. Get yerr ass in gear svc76 - lol.

TEE ELL

sixsixfour:

Its almost 2 pm saturday. We are here to see the pics and how they look , but you are still sleeping man, comon wake up, and install those things, i am sure its a 10 min job. and please pics pics pics.

sixsixfour

install what? im not the one who bought DRL LEDs, as I have an 06 and it doesnt have DRLs.

the guy who bought the LED DRLs were scv76_, not me.

you got the wrong guy man

timmahh

V-LEDS sucks for shipping; I ordered front and rear LEDs on December 18th and STILL don't have them.

scv76_

Guys, I've got bad news... the led lamps from v-led did not work.
I got all excited when I started the install

I took one of the stock OEM drl's out of its reflector and it looked like this:


Then I removed the oem lamp and put in one of the new led types



At this time I'm thinkin' that looks pretty good, wonder what it looks like in the reflector:


Kinda weak looking, but that's okay, it's a bright day here. The sun is shining directly onto the front of the car.


Thats when I noticed the other sides OEM drl was not on.
Light not on should equal a dash drl warning...sure enough.

Tried installing the second led drl, and neither light came on!

Here's what the oem's looked like when the sun was not quite as directly on the front of the car about an hour earlier:


Now it's on to investigating why this didn't work.
I'm going to post this up first so you can see progress up to this point, then continue with some observations in another post

timmahh

did the 2nd LED work in the first connector?

If you have some spare wire, try using alligator clips and plug them directly into the battery for testing purposes; it's possible the 2nd unit is reverse - in which cause you would need to swap the wiring on your connector [or send it back]

good luck!

scv76_

Okay, now on to trying to figure out why these v-led drl's didn't work.

I must apologize if this has been covered elsewhere. If I read it, I did not get a grasp of it.

Somewhere here in another thread, I vaguely remember reading someone reported the drl's run at a reduced voltage; and that's why they are so "yellowish" colored.

I made a voltage measurement at the bulb socket by removing one of the oem drl lamps and probed the bulb socket. I measured 12.2 volts..
This contradicted what we thought about reduced voltages for drl's.
Could the bulb being installed drop the voltage that much??
I didn't think so...
The resistance of one oem drl bulb is about .5 ohms...
current (I) equals voltage (E) divided by resistance (R) I=E/R
A half ohm resistance across 12 volts would be a wopping 24 amps...we know this is not reasonable.
How can I read 12 volts at the socket?
The voltage has to be much lower than 12 volts!!
I reasoned that their must be some kind of electronic gizzmo (maybe a current sensing relay or something?) that lowers or switches the voltage when a resistance is sensed.

I ran some wire from the bulb socket to the meters probes; then touched the probes to the oem drl lamp. The voltage changed to 5.8 volts, and the oem lamp lit.(both oem drl's lit)
So the voltage is only about half when the oem bulbs are in place.

Next thought was to leave the oem drl's in the circuit, and splice in the led drl's.......the oem's could be just left under the hood (maybe even used as an underhood light)
All it would require to do this would be splicing in some additional mating plugs to fit the light sockets and install the leds while leaving the oem lights still connected.
This would satisfy the resistance requirement and keep the dash drl warning off.

But will the v-led lamps work at 5.8 volts?
Since I have an adjustable voltage bench power supply, this should be easy to prove out.
Long story short, no they do not work at 5.8 volts...
It takes about 9 volts to get any light output at all.

For general reference, below are some pics at different voltages
These are all taken at f-stop 4.9, but I couldn't get the shutter speed to stay the same. But you can still get the idea.
these are the speeds in order: 1/40,1/50,1/50,1/60,1/80th seconds
9 volt input


10 volt input


11 volt input


12 volt input


and 13 volt input




So, it looks like there is no simple solution to making these work in the 07 TL, unless someone makes a set of led lamps that will operate at a lower voltage.

Even then, since the leds have no resistance, it would probably be necessary to wire in a resistance to keep the dash drl warning off unless you kept the original lamps in the circuit.
I don't think you will want to put in a .5 ohm resistor in the circuit to do this as it would require a large wattage.

It appears that the dash warning stays off when the lamp circuit is at 5.8 volts (oem lamps in and working = .5 ohms resistance), and comes on when at 12 volts (burned out, missing oem lamp = no resistance).

scv76_

Nope, both light...checked both led clusters on the power supply...both connector pins are the same and the positive side of each lamp matches with the wiring harness positive sides.
Good thought though

scv76_

I'm still missing something here....
if when I removed an oem bulb, and the voltage went to 12 volts ( and I proved that 12 volts will light the led), then why when I connected both led bulbs did they not light? If there is no resistance at all (simulating both oem lights defective), does our TL kill all the voltage to the harness?
Be back gotta go take another voltage measurement

TEE ELL

Oh my bad, sorry to wake u up. my bad, go back to sleep.

scv76_

Removed both oem bulbs from harness and measured Zero volts at sockets.
Seems that with no resistance at all (leds), our cars supply zero volts to the harness.
That's why neither led bulb lit up when both were installed.
Seems our cars do indeed use some kind of a bridge that changes the voltage based on whats plugged into the bulb sockets.

I guess in order to use the led lamps, the next step would require purchasing the mating connectors for the H-8 bases; then wiring them in on their own circuit.
We would want to leave the oem circuit alone in order to keep the DRL dash warning off.
Both oem bulbs would remain under the hood, but not installed into the respective reflectors

I think I measured 12 volts at the fuse that was designated for drl in the fusebox.
For the led drl's to be on during daylight hours, maybe we could used the fused side of the
DRL fuse to supply the 12 volts to our new wiring (the led bulbs)

Does this sound do-able??

scv76_

What the heck was I thinking? must have been the beer-buzz or something.
Using the fuse for the drl circuit would keep the lights on all the time because it's not switchable.(12 volts present requardless whether the lights on or off)
What we need to do is find a 12 volt source that is switched on and off when the drl's turn on/off.
Anyone have the wiring for a 2007 drl circuit?

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

Aww that sucks! I remember someone else awhile back saying that the voltage for the DRLs isn't 12V too. I think it was Kennedy. This may end up being more complicated than it should be. After all the work I hope you won't be disappointed with the low-output of the LEDs.

Is the original halogen DRL bulbs rated 12V? If so, an alternative to LED is to try maybe a different halogen bulb like Nokya or Silverstar that is covered with a light blue coating and gives you that "whiter" light. It may not be LED but at least you're getting rid of the yellow and the output is bright.

sixsixfour

i think those LEDs will work on 04-06s fog lights with no problem, as when they are fired up they both get full power.

those should be marketed not as DRL replacements but high beam/fog replacements for show purposes (as they dont give off any useable light). if the way OEM DRL works on every car, i think anyone who buys these to swap will be disappointed.

too bad I already have HIDs on my fogs. I wouldnt mind picking these up from you scv

scv76_

Rocky, the leds do not output at all at 5.8 volts.
I need to re-check to see if the stock oem drl bulbs are rated at 12 volts.......I think they are......I did up the voltage to them to 10-11 volts when I was bench checking them; and they were pretty darn bright.
So I figure they are 12 volt bulbs just that acura is using them at 5.8 volts so they can't be bright.

scv76_

I don't know about the 04-06's, I don't know anyone that has one of those years to check it out, but they should work fine for any 12 volt application that uses the HB3 socket size.

As for the marketing, I agree with you that they should not be marketed as drl ....at least not for an 07 TL.
Maybe other models don't use a lower voltage for DRL's?

I'm going to check to see if maybe i can find some 6 volt bulbs that have the HB3
base. If there are any white ones, may have to go with them.
Not likely to find many 6 volt lamps....especially ones that would fit that base

RedHOT411

DRL in Canada uses 9005 55W bulbs wired in series, so each only sees 6V (and if one goes out the other does too!).

(https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77369)

Maybe this is the case for the 07+ US DRL?

illstrategy

I didnt go the LED route..... i used the Nokya 3000k (yellow) bulbs in my fogs and also in my DRL... they are a nice yellow JDM look.... its better than the stock bulbs, and there is no problem!!

Its just another option, hope that helps

jguerra23

Do you have Pic of how they look on the DRL

TeknoKing

Also interested to see those pics of Nokya 2500K in action...

Too many HID fogs are on the road in NYC, I want to go back a few years when yellow foggies were the bomb

DLHTL

I just picked up some 9005 and 9006 Nokya Hyper Yellow bulbs off of e bay. I should have them in a couple of days. I will take pics and try to post when I get them.

TeknoKing

DLHTL, thanks! I'll be waiting!

billiam21

It's obvious that the lights are wired in series. When you remove one bulb, there is no current flow so the full voltage drops across the socket. It's a cheap way to drop the voltage and current to the bulbs. So LED's won't work unless you wire the two sockets in parallel, which should be simple.

RedHOT411

Anyone have a picture of the wiring diagram??? I'm trying to figure out if I can convert the harness from series to parallel with out cutting any wires.

scv76_

Here's an update from V-Leds..
I have informed Jake at V-leds about the problem with the drl's not working due to the reduced voltage at the harness.
They are working on a solution, and says to check back with them in early February.
Here's what they said:
>We're on it! I have an 06 IS350, does the same thing less the bulb out
> warning. So we are coming out with a wide range bulb that will start at 6v
> and work up to around 18v. I also thought of making a relay harness that
> just plugs in to the cars socket and draws 12v strait to the lights. We
> should have the bulbs available around the end of this month. If you would
> like to return the bulbs you purchased please see the instructions below.

Then I responded with my observations, and complained about a re-stock fee

To which they responded:
>Bulb voltage range.... don't worry we know what we're doing.

>Harness..... I have a simple solution for it, but I would rather sell bulbs that plug >n' play then a Band-Aid harness.

>The bulbs do work as advertised, just not in your vehicle, but none the less we >will not charge a restock fee, I want to keep you coming back. We've got a lot of >cool stuff in the hopper right now so you will definitely want to check back with >us.

I told them I would let the guys know at the Acura related site I frequent

Last response:
Great, thanks Bob. Check back toward the first of February.


Thank you,

Jake York

Velocity Distributing Inc.



Looks like there still may be a chance!!!

sunny201

^^ great work scv76