2Quik

Thanks for the info rockstar.

I tried going at it this morning but i cant get passed the damn crank pulley bolt I keep breaking my damn socket extensions. I got an sk one from amazon and a husky one. What brad of socket extensions are you people using?

blueracer17

Are you using impact extensions? If not, you are wasting your time. You also don't want to stack extensions, get one long one.

nfnsquared

Yeah, if either the front or rear cam teeth are off slightly from the belt teeth, you can use a socket wrench to ease the pulley slightly clockwise or ccw. I'm talking about 1/8" or so to fully seat the belt teeth into the socket teeth.

If the rear cam happens to spin 1/8 of a turn before you get the belt on, just use a socket wrench to bring it back to tdc and then put the belt on.

First time I did this, I used a regular (non-impact) Craftsman 1/2' extension (20" or 24", can't remember). It worked fine, although that damn bolt was a PITA to break loose. Second time I just whipped out my IR W7150 on that bad boy

rkpatt

Try heating heat the bolt with a torch (bolt only, not the pulley) . It would be better to use a 3/4 drive breaker bar extensions, and socket. Better yet borrow or rent one of those high torque milwaukee cordless impact wrenches or that IR7150 mentioned above to loosen it,

blueracer17

This
and this


Will get the bolt off.

2Quik

The SK extension was a impact extension, the problem was that it was a 24 inch 1/2 inch to a 3/8 end. When I ordered the extension I didn't pay attention to that. I tried SK extension the 3/8 broke off, then I tried regular extensions and broke them.

When using a high torque impact you don't need the crank pulley hex tool to hold the crank pulley?

nfnsquared

no

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

it hammers faster than it'll spin with resistance on it anyway...

bg2128506

First of all, thank you @majofo. Good write up.

I used your write up as a main reference.
Plus all relevant pages printed out from Acura factory manual.
Plus I found this video really good:
Nothing to complain, seriously. I spent yesterday about 4.5 hours (mainly trying to remove a stuck bolt on the strut bar plus an hour today to get it finally removed - it was supposed to be tightened to 16lb/ft !).

Today I spent almost 15 hours. Haven't started the car yet, leaving it for tomorrow morning.

Tip #1. Remove power steering pump to make more room.

Tip #2. From the video above: mark your old timing belt with a liquid paper correction pen then transfer marks to the new belt. It will give you great confidence you are not screwing it up.

Tip #3. To replace thermostat I only remove the battery. The back screw on housing is PITA but doable.

I'll post tomorrow if the car runs .

2Quik

DAMN battery powered!

what is the lowest amount of torque that can be used as for as a impact wrench goes to take of the crank pulley bolt?

I am looking at the one by DeWalt at a quarter of the cost.

6spd-GERCO

Have you tried placing and impact socket and a breaker bar on the bolt, place the breaker bar in such away against the subframe that it can't rotate and then quickly bumping the starter? I struggled to get my crank pulley off but used this trick and it broke the crank bolt lose on the first try.

2Quik

I saw the bump start method but was scared to try and break my axle or control arm. I'll have to get a quality ratchet and maybe try it next time. i don't know that the breaker bar can be put in such a way that it's really close to the axle.

Majofo

... the bolt will snap before the axle / control arm.

6spd-GERCO

If you use a 6 point deep well socket and a breaker bar you can position it such that you can place the handle of the bar against sub-frame in front of the engine towards the front of the car. I would just be more worried about the bar swinging around or moving when you bump the starter. The axle and control arm are plenty strong.

if you break that bolt your going to have bad day(s).

2Quik

I wouldn't want the bolt to snap.
or do you mean the bolt will become lose before the axle breaks? Would this method cause issues with the axle or anything else?

nfnsquared

FWIW and IMHO, the Lisle socket is overkill and unnecessary if your are using a gun of that caliber. My IR W7150 easily spun the crank bolt off with a normal impact socket and it has about 130 ft-lbs less torque (~870 ft-lbs) than the Milwaukee 2763 or the DeWalt DCF899 (both brushless and ~1000 ft-lbs of torque). You can get the DeWalt for only $300 on Amazon. Here's a great review on the 3 guns:

nfnsquared

On the other hand, Bundy just released a video using the Snap On 18V gun with only 600 ft-lbs of torque and it wouldn't pop the crank bolt with a homemade Lisle type socket, but it would (barely) with the real Lisle socket:

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That's awesome...
I mean, I don't NEED it, but MAN I wouldn't mind having one of those snap-on or IR.

nfnsquared

IR W7150 plus 2 batteries and case for $380 shipped


^^^That's a great price for the 2 battery kit!!!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

It really is!
I guess I'm having a hard time justifying it since I literally never would need such strong force unless it was the crank pulley.

Thanks nonetheless!

Majofo

Nfn's IR is the Cadillac of impact guns, CTS-V if you will.

Majofo

The bolt won't snap.

2Quik

Got my timing belt change done, hardest part was removing the damn crank pulley bolt, after that it was pretty self explanatory by read instructions. Thank you to all of you for taking time to provide input.

I must say, car feels alot smoother at idle but all around feels better. is it just me or is it normal for a car to feel smoother aft TB change?

nfnsquared

Couldn't tell a difference either time....

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Mine felt smoother too, but I attribute to the valve adjustment.

cts-v impact gun

2Quik

I didn't adjust the car valves, but I noticed a difference. Runs and feels great.

How long did it take you guy to do your timing belt(belt pulley, auto tensioner water pump and thermostat)?
If it wasn't for the crank pulley belt I thing it would taking me 2:30-3:00 hrs. This was my first timing belt replacement.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^there's no possible way you would feel a difference in smoothness because assuming you changed it correctly, IT WOULD BE THE EXACT SAME as the old one...which would mean NO CHANGE in perception or the way it drives, because its the exact same.

TacoBello

This is the equivalent of replacing your headlight bulbs and claiming the car is faster now

TacoBello

The placebo effect is strong with this one.

6spd-GERCO

Good to hear you got it altogether and it's running well for you. How did you end up getting the crank pulley bolt off?

I second your experience, I didn't adjust the valves after I did the 105k service and it felt smoother compared to before the service. Fresh plugs, no floppy old timing belt, new water pump and tensioner made a noticeable difference.

I should adjust my valves, I have all the gaskets and tools to do it, but my valve-train wasn't and isn't noisy so I haven't bother with it.

TacoBello

If you had a "floppy old timing belt", your car wouldn't run rough. It wouldn't run at all. The placebo effect is strong with you as well.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

because interface engine. thus why belt can only be installed in one direction. I learned that one the hard way. lol


also dont forget pin in crank bolt.

6spd-GERCO

lol I just saw the responses from Tacobello and Justin I don't think the timing belt alone will make a noticeable difference. The other items will make a difference depending on the out-going condition of the other 105k service items.

6spd-GERCO

Wrong choice of words lol it's got an auto-tensioner after all, looking at the timing belt alone, no it wouldn't make a difference. However, looking at the other items serviced could you say it's a placebo effect?

Timing belt auto-tensioner
Timing belt Tensioner pulley
Idler pulley
Serpentine Belt
Water pump
Spark plugs

Ouch you paid your tuition in full for the school of hard knocks.

TacoBello

In my opinion:

No
No (unless warped, why would you even replace the pulley?)
No (same as above)
No
Probably not
Potentially yes

6spd-GERCO

It's how I roll, it is part of the timing belt system and for $134.54 USD for the two it seems reasonable to me to replace it. Plus they are sealed bearings, I would hate to not do it and have one of them call it quits and eat the timing belt. Valves meet piston, piston meet valves.

TacoBello

Fair enough, but you should also consider the statistics of something like that happening. I've never heard of someone having a pulley seize on them and some guys have well over 250k miles in their cars.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I just know that when I put that much effort into anything I do. It's better when I'm done no matter what, Mmmmkayyy.

2Quik

I aslo did change the drive belt auto tensioner. I notice a difference. I am with you rockstar, each car is different.

Can't take comments seriously from a person that has an avatar of a gorilla eating a tcao, what the.... Right bro... Ha ha

2Quik

I got a 24" impact extension and hex tool. I had to put duck tape on the hex tool for to stay. I pushed and pushed on that bitch till it popped.