A-122: DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS*
#1921
Well she's back from her coma. Got the new radiator in. Decided to also do a drain and fill on the trans since I was going to lose some fluid anyway. Got her all out back together and she started right up, smooth as silk. And so much quieter than before.
The radiator had a hole in the top third of the front face on the passengers side. No idea how that could have happened unless it rotted from the inside out. If it was a rock it would have taken out the grill and the ac condenser as well. Unless it was a magic rock.
One item to note on the timing belt change, the service manual for the 07/08 makes no mention of using 181 lb ft of torque on the CP bolt. It says to tighten to 48 lb ft and then mark the top of the bolt and the pulley at 60 degrees forward and then tighten the bolt the additional 60 degrees. This is what I did. See page 6-12 in the SM.
Thanks again to Acurazine for the instructions and guidance.
The radiator had a hole in the top third of the front face on the passengers side. No idea how that could have happened unless it rotted from the inside out. If it was a rock it would have taken out the grill and the ac condenser as well. Unless it was a magic rock.
One item to note on the timing belt change, the service manual for the 07/08 makes no mention of using 181 lb ft of torque on the CP bolt. It says to tighten to 48 lb ft and then mark the top of the bolt and the pulley at 60 degrees forward and then tighten the bolt the additional 60 degrees. This is what I did. See page 6-12 in the SM.
Thanks again to Acurazine for the instructions and guidance.
#1922
Burning Brakes
Update: So after I realized I just let $84 go down the drain. I went past Advance Auto and let the check the light. It came back that all 6 were miss firing so I went home regapped all my spark plugs to .44 and replace coil #3. Went to get it check again and still all 6 are miss firing. Am I missing something here? Plus it has little shake to it when taking off with a little putt coming out the exhaust. I don't think it's the spark plugs because my gears are changing fine and it still takes off like the speed of light when I tested it. Also the guy at Advance Auto reset my CEL and after about 10 seconds and leaving it started flashing again.
#1923
Burning Brakes
One item to note on the timing belt change, the service manual for the 07/08 makes no mention of using 181 lb ft of torque on the CP bolt. It says to tighten to 48 lb ft and then mark the top of the bolt and the pulley at 60 degrees forward and then tighten the bolt the additional 60 degrees. This is what I did. See page 6-12 in the SM.
Thanks again to Acurazine for the instructions and guidance.
Thanks again to Acurazine for the instructions and guidance.
And no one is listening to my method to put on the belt, but criticizing, hence getting the springing action of the rear cam. Loosen the idler pulley, wrap belt around the front cam, tighten the idler pulley, the idler pulley bolt is tapered in the rear that rolls the idler pulley automatically back on dead center when you tighten it down. Loosen the water pump a tad, with all bolts still in, wrap belt around the rear cam, then tighten all water pump bolts. I have zero issue and zero leak with anything. It's been 15k miles since the timing belt and water pump change. Turning the rear cam is ok, sure, but are you doing that properly at 2am and not missing a tooth? That's why I left both front and rear cams not touched when I was wrapping the new belt back on.
Last edited by t-rd; 01-24-2016 at 03:54 PM.
#1924
BTW: What's the word on the idler shim that comes with the Gates timing belt. Should I be using this thing or not? The vehicle selection shows so many Hondas and Acuras that require it, but when it shows 2004-2006 TL the space where most indicate "All" is just blank. WTH? Also the procedure seems to only apply to engines that make a chirping noise. Mine never made this noise.
On the crank pulley bolt torquing method.....Honda has gone this route with all their newer crank pulley bolt torquing methods. The crank pulley bolt is the same part# for all 04-08 TL's so there is no problem using the 60* method on an earlier model. Especially since most people don't have a 180lb/ft torque wrench anyways. I used this method on mine. BTW: Each point of the hex head on the bolt is 60* apart which makes this method really easy.
PS: I don't have any trouble threading the T-belt from the crank in a counter-clockwise fashion. No loosening bolts to make room etc... If the belt is threaded on all pulleys correctly, it will easily slip right over the tensioner pulley wihtout fuss before pulling the tensioner pin. If the rear cam snaps forward or backward, no big deal. Just roll it back to it's mark with a box-end wrench. Super easy.
#1925
Race Director
Did you adjust the valves? Unless a valve adjustment was done, I'd assume that's just a placebo effect. Yeah, new plugs could make a difference, but after 2 plug changes (one at 106K, the other at 214K), I've yet to notice a difference. Just saying...
I love this new method. It will make it possible to using an impact gun to tighten the crank bolt. I've seen posts where guys say using an impact gun is prohibited by the SM, but there's nothing in the 04-05 SM warning against it...
However, I find it hard to believe that only 60 degrees (1/6 of a turn) of travel will increase torque from 48 to 181...
totally agree..
On the crank pulley bolt torquing method.....Honda has gone this route with all their newer crank pulley bolt torquing methods. The crank pulley bolt is the same part# for all 04-08 TL's so there is no problem using the 60* method on an earlier model. Especially since most people don't have a 180lb/ft torque wrench anyways. I used this method on mine. BTW: Each point of the hex head on the bolt is 60* apart which makes this method really easy.
However, I find it hard to believe that only 60 degrees (1/6 of a turn) of travel will increase torque from 48 to 181...
PS: I don't have any trouble threading the T-belt from the crank in a counter-clockwise fashion. No loosening bolts to make room etc... If the belt is threaded on all pulleys correctly, it will easily slip right over the tensioner pulley wihtout fuss before pulling the tensioner pin. If the rear cam snaps forward or backward, no big deal. Just roll it back to it's mark with a box-end wrench. Super easy.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 01-27-2016 at 11:27 AM.
#1926
Burning Brakes
I have yet to see a tech at Honda taking off or putting on a crank bolt using a 6' long extension bar + lodge tool. I saw the same paranoia comments on Amazon.
#1927
In that 60*, I saw the torque shoot right up past the 150 lb/ft limit on my flex-beam torque wrench. That's when I switched to a ratchet & pipe to finish the job.
#1928
FYI: I'm not saying that it actually says anything like that in the service manual. I have quite a few OEM service manuals and have never heard such a statement (it may be something new).
#1929
Nope. Didn't do valves. Prior to this work I had a odd idle that would dip whenever I pressed the clutch in. The rev's would momentarily drop to about 500 and then recover. Now it seems rock-steady every time.
#1930
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rockstar143 (02-06-2016)
#1931
I have recently completed a TB replacement on a 2001 Honda Odyssey J35 (my 4th J35 TB project). The PS pump was moved out of the way by disconnecting the lower hose but pump is now noisy (bearing type noise) after reinstall . I subeqently flushed and bled PS system was and the pump still makes the noise. I purchased a rebuilt pump at at one of the chain auto parts store but seems makd noise but not as bad. However something is not right. I even tried a 2nd rebuilt pump and it is having problems too.
I am now now wondering is the concave "washer" that goes agains the timing gear
behind the crankshaft pulley was installed backwards throwing the PS belt alignment off thus creating a trust angle problem and cousing the poblem wiith the pump. Just looking at the belt, I cannot tell. Is it possible that the "washer" could have been installed incorrectly without causing other symptoms ?
My visual observations with crank pully revove seemed to show that crank pulley was installed correctly (clean metal) on the washer only where the crank pulley touches and a minimal distance between the outside of the crank pulley and the lower timing cover.
I could measure the distance between back of the crank pulley and the block (at the oil pan connection and compare if to another vehicle. I am looking for suggestions on how to confirm that washer was installed correctly short of removing the timing covers ?
-Thanks
I am now now wondering is the concave "washer" that goes agains the timing gear
behind the crankshaft pulley was installed backwards throwing the PS belt alignment off thus creating a trust angle problem and cousing the poblem wiith the pump. Just looking at the belt, I cannot tell. Is it possible that the "washer" could have been installed incorrectly without causing other symptoms ?
My visual observations with crank pully revove seemed to show that crank pulley was installed correctly (clean metal) on the washer only where the crank pulley touches and a minimal distance between the outside of the crank pulley and the lower timing cover.
I could measure the distance between back of the crank pulley and the block (at the oil pan connection and compare if to another vehicle. I am looking for suggestions on how to confirm that washer was installed correctly short of removing the timing covers ?
-Thanks
#1934
This image in the lower right clearly shows how the crank pulley washer (called the guide-plate) should be installed. The belt should only have a chance to ride against the rounded lip with no sharp edges capable of touching the belt. If you install it backwards, the sharp edge of metal plate can grind away on the belt.
#1935
Thanks for the replies to my previous post (half awake when I typed it) about the timing belt guide plate ( "crank pulley washer"). I remembering being careful to install it with the concave side in and recall seeing timing belt cog markings on that face of it. However, the power steering pump problem has me second guessing and I want to verify that the timing belt guide plate was installed correctly . I guess that I could remove one of the top timing belt covers (front cover seemed easiest) and look for wear on the outside edge of the timing belt (vehicle has been driven only a few miles). Anyone have other ideas on ways to check this short of pulling everything part again just to check this ?
Last edited by rkpatt; 02-07-2016 at 06:46 AM.
#1936
Burning Brakes
If you aren't sure then you should at least pull the crank pulley again to check.
This is why I wrote on the outside face of that piece with the word "OUT" using a black marker. This is no mistaking which side faces out when I'm tired and go put the stuff back.
This is why I wrote on the outside face of that piece with the word "OUT" using a black marker. This is no mistaking which side faces out when I'm tired and go put the stuff back.
#1937
Since my alst post, I removed the crank pulley and the pull imprint is there. I also remove front upper timing cover an di not see any evidents of rubbing on the outer edge of the timing belt. Everything looks ok. I will mark it on the next one I do. -Thanks
#1939
#1940
Race Director
Cheapest price on drive belt that I've found was via Amazon Prime, $19 shipped:
#1944
I have this belt on my car and this thing is whisper quiet. I think it's much better than the OEM belt I had on there. The goodyear Gatorback belts have been bought out by Continental and renamed to Continental Elite series belts. You may also want to check on your Drive belt tensioner and air flow tube because they are notorious for dry rotting and cracking.
This one is for 04-06 ACURA TL.
Last edited by Eternal 28; 03-11-2016 at 07:49 PM.
#1945
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (2)
Yes, I replaced my thermostat with an OEM one at 105K.
Amazon.com: Continental Elite 4060840 Poly-V / Serpentine Belt: Automotive
I have this belt on my car and this thing is whisper quiet. I think it's much better than the OEM belt I had on there. The goodyear Gatorback belts have been bought out by Continental and renamed to Continental Elite series belts. You may also want to check on your Drive belt tensioner and air flow tube because they are notorious for dry rotting and cracking.
Amazon.com: Genuine Acura 17228-RCA-A00 Air Flow Tube: Automotive This one is for 04-06 ACURA TL.
Amazon.com: Continental Elite 4060840 Poly-V / Serpentine Belt: Automotive
I have this belt on my car and this thing is whisper quiet. I think it's much better than the OEM belt I had on there. The goodyear Gatorback belts have been bought out by Continental and renamed to Continental Elite series belts. You may also want to check on your Drive belt tensioner and air flow tube because they are notorious for dry rotting and cracking.
Amazon.com: Genuine Acura 17228-RCA-A00 Air Flow Tube: Automotive This one is for 04-06 ACURA TL.
#1949
` . ' . SUV haterrr
I'm not going to replace the thermostat. I think it is a "random failure" rather than a "wear and tear" item, and an aftermarket part is likely to be an inferior quality.
Where do you put the stands when lifting the car? The lifting points will be taken by the jack.
Where do you put the stands when lifting the car? The lifting points will be taken by the jack.
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gt1 (03-20-2016)
#1955
Intermediate
I'm about to hit 104k and I'm starting to order the parts for my 105k service. That being said I have read a few different parts lists for the 105k service. Also considering this DIY was posted about 6 years ago I just want to make sure the parts list is complete and correct? Is there anything extra you guys included in the 105k service when doing yours?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#1956
Burning Brakes
Crankshaft seal: $6.08 -> ended up not replacing, bone dry.
OEM Thermostat with gasket: $27.93
Powerbuilt 20" 1/2" drive extension: $13.70
Honda Coolant, 2 gallons: $28.46
Whiteout: ?
zip ties / binder clips: ?
Brake kleen, 2 bottles: $9
timing belt kit: $159.44 from Amazon, I had $30 of gift certificate
Lisle harmonic balancer socket: $35
I borrowed an old electric impact gun and the crank bolt holding tool. The rest of the tools I already have. You'll need a torque wrench rated up to 200 ft-lb to torque the crank bolt to 181 ft-lb. I bought one rated up to 250 ft-lb made by Tekton, $71.91 from Amazon.
OEM Thermostat with gasket: $27.93
Powerbuilt 20" 1/2" drive extension: $13.70
Honda Coolant, 2 gallons: $28.46
Whiteout: ?
zip ties / binder clips: ?
Brake kleen, 2 bottles: $9
timing belt kit: $159.44 from Amazon, I had $30 of gift certificate
Lisle harmonic balancer socket: $35
I borrowed an old electric impact gun and the crank bolt holding tool. The rest of the tools I already have. You'll need a torque wrench rated up to 200 ft-lb to torque the crank bolt to 181 ft-lb. I bought one rated up to 250 ft-lb made by Tekton, $71.91 from Amazon.
Last edited by t-rd; 03-25-2016 at 09:40 AM.
#1958
Taquila 1
iTrader: (1)
Great illistration, Thank God I marked the right cam. A lobe must have been sitting on dead ctr of a valve because it slipped once in ea direction and if I hadn't marked the cam gear I woldn't have seen it. I got a large glass of wine before I turned the key. I was either going to celebrate or sulk in sorrow. There's a excellent vid on utube also. I want to wish u the best on loosing the crank pulley bolt.
#1959
Burning Brakes
I got coolant from the dealer at $13 a gallon, and I picked them up on the way home one day. That means no shipping and bogus handling fee, just tax. DON'T assume everything on Amazon is cheaper than anywhere else.