t-rd

Aisin TKH002 kit DOES NOT come with the shim.

ReMiXeDg

I plan to have the following done on my 3g currently at 155k miles what else should I be looking at replacing while all this is done? I do have oil leak and want to replace any seal or gasket that should be replaced can anyone recommend what else should I consider looking at changing. I also plan on getting a valve adjustment. I am trying to find out as much as I can as to what I should look at / consider replacing so I can gather all these parts then send the car away to the mechanic thanks.

Timing Belt
Drivebelt
Water Pump
TB Adjuster
TB Auto Tensioner
TB Idler Pulley
170F Thermostat
Clutch & Flywheel
New Brake & Clutch fluid
New Coolant & Oil chance
New Tranny Fluid
NGK Laser Iridium plus #6994

t-rd

^
The bearings in the drive belt's auto tensioner may be shot or noisy. You can choose to replace just the bearings, just the pulleys, or the entire assembly.

You might also find the side motor mount shot when you remove it for the timing belt job, prepare one of these. It's also a good time to replace the front motor mount even if it's not completely separated.

Prepare a crankshaft seal plus 2 cam shaft seals also, you might see those leaking. Mine weren't leaking, but I had the seals plus a puller ready.

ReMiXeDg

Thanks for the reply. Yes I plan on doing the whole assembly for the drive belt. As for the motor mounts thats something I have to now look into can I tell if they are no good by not even looking at them? When I start car sometimes you can feel the engine move like jolt. and sometimes when coming to a stop sign or stop and if I put the shifter back into 1st gear sometimes itll be rough like a the shifter feeling its a notch and you can feel it to the engine. pretty hard to explain thanks.

also going to do the seals like the cam shaft and rear main seal Thanks. any recommendations to where get a motor mount should I go upgraded or OEM?

peter6

Just finished the job, first time doing timing belt, took me around 8 hours from pulling car in to pulling it out.

I thought I had an oil leak, so I cleaned the engine and added dye to the oil 5 days before this job. I was afraid that cam seal or something like that is leaking.

Engine was clean today, seems like all of that oil leaked from tensioner :
That's original belt, at ~86k miles, 2008 TL. When I bought it ~year ago I lifted it and engine was clean, first oil change ~half year ago it was also clean. It means that tensioner must had leaked recently.
I guess there's some truth to 105k or 7 years.

thoiboi

good timing then! nice job

tlemmon

Just ran through this DIY myself. At 110k miles, I figured it was time. Hardest part was of course the crank pulley bolt! The 100+ degree weather didn't help either. There were some small bolts at the back of the engine that hold the timing belt covers on. They were a pain as I've got fkin gorilla hands. :-/ The battery tie down helped a ton when it came to pulling the pin out. Don't skip out on using it!

My hydraulic tensioner was leaking. So I'm glad I caught it before it gave up.

I have a new appreciation for the techs that have to do this at the shop. It's very labor intensive!



-t

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

with the tools and experience, it would be a cinch though...
Great work!

nfnsquared

Congrats and welcome to the club

FYI, as I've posted before, those top rear TB cover bolts are much easier to get to if you first pull the PS pump. It's well worth the minimal effort to pull the pump.

tlemmon

Yeah, I realized after I was almost done that it would have helped out a lot to remove the PS pump. Oh well.

-t

nfnsquared

https://www.harborfreight.com/20V-Ma...Kit-63537.html

Great reviews so far. Looks like a Milwaukee knock-off and one reviewer claims it's made by the same company that makes the Milwaukee, dunno. Beware, it only has a 90-day warranty, but the price is very attractive!! Only time will tell if the short warranty is even an issue.

I paid over $316 for the IR W7150, but only $249 for the Milwaukee 2763-21XC . If you can still find the Milwaukee for $249, I'd probably go with it, but if you need a nutbuster now, Harbor Freight gives you another option at a great price!!

Majofo

I like HF.. but I wouldn't get that over Milwaukee, IR, or DeWalt unless it was half the price. Btw.. @thoiboi spent almost 2k on DeWalt 20V/60V Flexvolt kit. After all the prodding I did, it was some ninny doing a demo at HD that sold him.

thoiboi

To your credit, while she was selling me, the devil pink dog on my shoulder was saying, "just do it ladiboi.. stop being a puuuuussssayyyyyyyy"

Majofo

just do it ladiboi
get that tattooed on the back of your hand

did I stutter on the palm

dirtx

great writeup and photos! thanks so much.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Use of small 1/4" air ratchet makes the cover removal easy and probably has been said before, to remove the
crank bolt, just lay the breaker bar on the frame and it the starter. Just pull the fuel pump fuel, let the engine die,
then start the job.

dw6484

Awesome write-up. Thanks for the amount of detail provided.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Dewalt!

SiGGy

Thanks!

I used this and service manual. One thing i always do when i do TB service. Is i use a paint based marker and mark the original belt where the timing marks are on the cam/crank sprockets. Then i transfer them to the new belt when i take it off. If you do this you can be positive its on correct (assuming you transfered the marks correctly)

my 05 only has 86k on it but i could hear the tensioner knocking! Sure enough it was blown. Got lucky it didn't skip a tooth. Belt was crazy loose!

i did:

hood shocks
Timing belt (asin kit)
Tb Tensioner
idler
water pump
spark plugs
thermostat
serpentine belt
upper and lower radiator hoses

$350 (all oem parts)

Oh and removing that crank bolt. Holy crap. I cheated and used the starter. I took a 4' breaker bar and wedged it to the ground and hit the starter. Much easier... and I had a strong air gun.

You can do this since the engine rotates clockwise when looking at the engine standing at passenger fender. (Actual rotation is counter clockwise from correct persoective)

I need to look into why my air compressor is not delivering enough scfm. (I had 1100 lb/ft break force gun) guessing my regulator is toast.

Thanks for taking the time to do this.

Cheval

I have a 2008 TL with 29,600 miles. It's been making a funny noise for probably the past 4 or maybe 5 years and no one had/has any idea what it is. Yesterday I decided to Youtube "Acura TL engine noise" and came across what it is!


That's *exactly* the noise so from what I gather it's the timing belt hydraulic tensioner.


My car's been doing this, like I said, for AT LEAST 4 years. It's probably a miracle the engine is not shot to hell. Needless to say the car is grounded with the next time it leaves the garage to get the belt stuff done. I was planning on doing it myself next fall but now with this happening I think it's imperative to get this done asap without me dicking around and figuring it all out. I don't even own a jack (I use ramps and never needed a jack so far).

Going to order the AISIN TKH-002 and Continental Elite 4060840 Poly-V / Serpentine Belt

Also, there's been a burning oil-type smell coming from (when you're standing at the front of the car looking at the windshield) rear-left corner of the engine. I've used fiber optic cams and looked behind there, looked over it real good when it's on the ramps, etc and can never find anything. No oil leaks, nothing on the ground, no bags stuck under there. I'm going to bet that smell is from the tensioner leaking and it's making that smell. Again, no one knows what it is but that's my bet.

Majofo

burning smell could either be oil like p/s fluid burning on your cataytic converter or the serpentine belt is burning
Serpentine belt could be any number of pulleys seizing or it could be contaminated... do you get any belt squeal on startup?
and jeebus man, 3,000 miles / year. Drive that thing.

Cheval

I originally way back thought it was the power steering. What caused me to rethink that was getting the PS recall done January 2013 and the smell stayed the exact same. I remember this because I asked the Acura guys at the dealer (when I picked the car up from getting the recall done) about that smell and they didn't know. They all came out to the car and looked under the hood but it hadn't warmed up enough to make the smell. The PS fluid level never changes and looked all over the PS stuff that I can see and I see no oil or anything leaking.

When I start the engine it's perfectly silent and has never made any unusual sounds--ever--other than that noise as shown in the first video above. I don't think the smell is from the serpentine belt because the belt itself doesn't smell. It's just the rear-left of the engine. I'm looking at a picture of the TL engine bay and I'd say the smell is as far right (on the back of the engine) as the left spark plug and on the left side of the engine not as far forward as the PS connector at that big wheel that is driven by the serpentine belt (topmost item on that belt). It's a very sharp delineation where the smell starts/stops.

The car never loses oil and there's no marks on the floor (never has been). Knowing what I do now I wonder if took a closer look there might be some oil on the side of the engine below where the timing belt tensioner is.

BTW I was thinking later that I'm not 100% sure that's a burning OIL smell. It's a burning something smell for sure though...

When I pull the car into the garage it will smell up the entire garage (not SUPER strong but it's there). Don't even need to pop the hood--just put your nose near the corner of the hood above the front-passenger tire and there's the smell. When driving come to a stop and it'll start coming into the car through the vents since it's getting sucked into the air intake that's right there, although it does depend on which way the wind is blowing as to if it gets sucked into the intake.

The smell is not immediate. A 5-minute 1 or 2 mile drive doesn't do it, not enough to be noticeable at least...

btw your avatar made me lol....

stevemk07

I'm gonna do this come spring/summer as a precautionary measure. Not sure when this belt was changed. Bought it at 200k kms (160k mi) two years ago so I assume it was done at the service interval. There were a few details that said service done at such a date but it did not say what the service was. Im at 260k now. Yes I kow I am very trusting but it runs beautifully since I bought it, the engine I mean. I havr had some issues with radiator and thermostat but nothing major yet. Doing this will give me some piece of mind and I love this car.

Cheval

Also, I know that at my mileage (29,600) the water pump replacement isn't required, but it comes with the kit and it'll all be taken apart to that point so may as well replace it and the coolant anyway since the coolant is 5 years-old so kill 2 birds with one stone. Question: thermostat replacement worth it while the coolant is drained and at that point regardless? Can get it off Amazon for $35 so I don't care about the cost and I want to do this right.

Genuine Acura 19301-P8E-A10 Thermostat Assembly

nfnsquared

I have 285K miles and 14 years on my 6MT, never replaced the thermostat.....

stevemk07

I would wager that if my trans cooler line hadn't busted in the middle of nowhere I wouldnt have had to replace mine either. But still doesnt hurt to change while its all emptied of coolant.

Majofo

I vote to change the tstat.. it's a couple of bolts.
It's a PITA if you don't have the right tools though (bottom bolt access).
With the right tools, it's an easy 15 minutes.

btw, it's not the belt that smells it's the belt burning that smells.
Obvious indications is small belt shavings / soot on any of the rotating assemblies.

If there's no belt noise though at startup, I'd rule it likely as burning oil.
Check the main (3rd) catalytic converter and check if there is burned residue on it.

Cheval

Nothing on the belt or close to it. The engine bay is really clean considering it has never been cleaned. All the white stuff that looks like calcium after water dries is from when I was chasing a tornado near me and I had to do a quick 3-point turnaround and get the hell out quick and some asshole came the other way just as I was completing it and went full blast through a lake of water on the road and it got all under my hood in the engine compartment.

As for the catalytic converter, I assume you're talking about the vertical one behind the engine? It's clean AFAICT and looks like the one on the front of the engine. Took a picture. The smell doesn't come from that far to the right, though.
My bet is still it's the oil leaking from the tensioner and getting hot and smelling. The noise and the odor from what I recall started around the same time. I can't see what else it could be.

BTW ordered the thermostat.

Majofo

That's one of your primaries (2nd cat). I'm talking about the horizontal catalytic converter (3rd cat), where the primary cats dump to.
The 3rd cat is connected to the j-pipe behind the oil pan, similar to the pic below.

Majofo

I can't tell much from the serpentine belt pic. A little water on it wouldn't create that white mark.
There's also a splash guard that would prevent such an occurrence as you noted.

Cheval

I looked that up before I posted but didn't think you mean the CC that was that far back. Regardless, When I'm under the car doing an oil change I've looked that over and it's clean. I got out my boroscope and took some pictures. Pic 1 is from the pass side and 2 and 3 are fishing through the engine compartment behind the engine. Even so that would put odor way too far to the right. The odor at most comes as far as the left edge of the rear-left coil for the spark plug (If I have my terminology correct). Even then it's nearly all from the back part of the left side of the engine.

I got a price of $300 for the labor of everything (belts, tensioners, water pump, thermostat) which was what I was looking for. I told him I'll supply the parts. The guy that I told him I wanted doing it worked for many years at the Honda dealer so he's a Honda dude so I'm getting what I wanted. He said he could do it today but I told him have to wait on the parts.

Majofo

That's the only location fluids would naturally contact and burn
The only other part that would burn are part of your rotating assemblies (any pulley - alternator, a/c compressor, p/s pump, auto tensioner)
Possibly a crack / leak in the exhaust.. That's the easiest to chase down.
If you think the auto tensioner is shot on the t-belt, it could be causing friction and producing an associated smell.

That price is outstanding. Make sure you inspect and obtain every part he replaces to make sure the work was done.
You can have him check the primaries and exhaust for leaks as well.
Also, an overheated cat can produce a sulfurous smell, but it wouldn't smell like something's burning.. it'll smell like rotten eggs.

nfnsquared

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...21XC/301099969

$100 off at HD through the end of December....

Cheval

Nope...none of that. The alternator, a/c compressor, p/s pump, auto tensioner are all further forward than the smell is. There's zero odor from any of that area.

Also, it's not an exhaust smell at all nor is it the rotten egg smell (very familiar with that from the 1981 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme my father had when I was a kid back in the '80s....had that smell from about 1986 or so till he traded it in 1994....smell would bring tears to your eyes.)

I think further evidence it's nothing exhaust related is the smell lasts for quite a long time after the car is turned off....hours and then it goes away once the car cools down. Also, I heat the car to normal temp when I do an oil change and when I'm under the car there's zero odor so it's coming from higher up.

I drove the car some and dropped it off today (was supposed to be yesterday but the thermostat was late so I had to talk to him and push it back a day) and it made a *slight* smell. Was so damn windy essentially couldn't smell it. He looked back there and I told him what I checked and my checklist what I looked over and when it does it. Should start and be done tomorrow and I'll report back what happens so if anyone else has this problem maybe it'll help. I can't believe I'm the only one with this problem.

I still think it's the TB tensioner. Looking at the second video I posted above when he takes it off @ the 1:50 mark the thing is covered in oil. Seems reasonable when that gets hot then it's going to smell. Maybe that's why it takes a bit to start smelling because it takes longer for that to heat up. If it's not that then I I dunno...I told him to look it all over and see if he sees anything wrong. Also, told him I wanted the parts saved and he wrote it down.

Getting all of this done for about $550 (includes 2 gallons of Honda coolant) I feel like I won the lottery. The guy that is doing the work used to work @ the Honda dealership for yearsand is also FOAF so I kind of know him and the guy that owns/manages the shop used to be the service manager at the same dealership and I know him going back to the middle 1990s so I feel comfortable with them so I feel it's in good hands.

Cheval

OK work is done and got all the old parts. The old parts look pretty good to me.

The smell seems to be mostly gone. While the car was running I could smell it just a little, AT MOST like 10% of what it was, if I stick my nose right up to the corner of the hood. I never smelled anything coming into the cabin and I drove it quite extensively. After pulling in the garage and turning off the car I couldn't smell anything nor did the garage stink like it normally would. Popping the hood and sticking my nose right in there and no smell. This still puzzles me because the old parts look pretty good so I'm not sure what the deal was but I'm not complaining!! I questioned about everything and he said no leaks anywhere.

The noise is mostly gone. There's a tinge of it and I notice the serpentine belt tensioner is shaking a tiny bit but not sure that's anything much. Part seems easy, but expensive, to replace at $110.

I originally looked into replacing the spark plugs but from my searching I'd have to be nuts to replace these plugs with only 29k on them when there's no obvious problems (idle, etc).

All that comes to mind. Was hoping to have a pinpoint this-is-it as to the smelling problem but not really sure what the problem was.

Cheval

Well, the smell is still there. I took a piece of PVC pipe (an extension of my nose ha) and stuck it around further down to see if I could smell that odor and......nothing. That means it HAS to be higher up. I looked and looked and could not figure out anything until something caught my eye. I guess I didn't notice previously that one of the spark plugs was that far to the left because it's more hidden from the vantage point I am looking from. The one I thought was furthest left is actually the middle one #2. It's ok to laugh. Well, hmm this is interesting. Last night I began to wonder if something to do with that spark plug is the problem. Today I took off the 2 easy front ones (#4 #5) and smelled the end of the coil tube after I took it out and that's the smell! I went to take off #1 and.......the nut was loose sitting on there. I think that's the problem! It's amazing that thing has been loose for probably 7 years.

Well, so I guess not only are the spark plugs being loose a worry but so are the coils. I need to check and make sure the spark plugs are tight. I guess just stick the socket down there and see if it moves when I tighten it and if not then call it good? 13 lb-ft IIRC.

Also I had the car idling for an hour and there's a roughness to the idle. My 2012 Accord V6 with 2X the mileage idles smooth. May have to look a bit closer at valve adjustment or plugs or something.

nfnsquared

You mean the allen bolt that holds the coil in? If it was still screwed in and just loose, then the coil should still be fully seated on the spark plug. I don't see that being a real issue.

If the end of the coil wasn't melted when you pulled it out, then I doubt the #1 plug is loose, or loose enough to cause a problem...

Cheval

My 2008 doesn't have the allen bolts, instead it has 10mm nuts. The one on #1 was on there loose and was allowing the smell to get out because that seal wasn't being held tight.

BTW I went to look for a picture of the 3g TL engine bays to post a pic of one with the nuts instead of allens and I can't find a single one. My late 2008 a fluke?

t-rd

On my 07 Accord V6, I had a burning rubber smell for a while, and it turned out to be the combo of belt tensioner + the serpentine belt itself. The smell disappeared after I changed out both. You definitely don't need to get the OEM part, use the one from Continental. Gates uses a chinese bearing for the tensioner pulley and it failed after about 80k miles. I have proof of this in pictures. So don't use the tensioner from Gates. It's cheaper, for a reason. The tensioner will shake a little bit while the engine is in operation, but should not deviate from the optimal mark stamped on the tensioner itself.

I have that same sound most likely from the timing belt, as in your first video. And I used the Aisin TKH-002 kit which has the OEM pulley and tensioner. So the noise disappeared for you?? Except... you had complete OEM components at that mileage?! But still made that noise?? The second video of the shop diagnosing the noise shows the extreme case of tensioner failure. My tensioner is about 70k miles old now, still no leaking yet, but the engine does make that same noise.

svtmedic