Wow, 15 years to the first TB change? I think that that may be a record!! Yeah, you should be fine with no loctite.

And FYI, regarding the effect on torque specs, I know that applies to anti-seize, not sure about loctite. I'm guessing "no" ?

 

Water pump housing "bottoms out" against the block before gasket has chance to be completely squished (and gasket is sitting in a small grove, right?). That's why torque shouldn't matter too much. I always use torque wrench for the small bolts, but rarely for the motor mount bolts.
It's not like flat paper gaskets / flat rubber gaskets where torque is quite important as too much will break the gasket.

 

Mine will be 16yrs old next month. Still original timing belt. 90K on her now. But from what I’ve read you all say, is not to do the TB service until notification. So I’ve been waiting.....

 

MAP sensor location?

 

in yerbum

 

That's a MAF sensor

 

I can't see but possible missing vacuum hose / cracked hose connector / PCV as well?

 

Shit.. isn't there a vacuum tube that sits on the intake manifold.. looks like it's missing

 

You achieve an 'A' for effort! All good guesses.

The 'tab' on the upper intake manifold gasket are facing the front, thus blocking some of the EGR ports underneath. The tabs should face to the rear toward the firewall. I flipped this over as soon as it was unloaded off the truck and it ran much better, although I still had intermittent misfires.

 

Shiett!! Zeta fucks!

 

Misfires gone since the swap?

 

^
When I started the car this morning, for the first time after the TB work, I only had a misfire on #5. I cleared it and it has not returned YET. I replaced the coil packs, on the named cylinders with salvage yard specials, seemed to clear the misfires up. Time will tell. Might have to go back with fuel injector if #5 or any other returns. Bled the cooling system, let it get up to operating temp. and all seemed good. Have not had a chance to take it out on the road. Gonna remove the 'fuel' mods next (CT regulator, lines and Walbro 255) just to get it done and over with.

 

You even removed the strut brace.. shiett.. $$$$
That Comptech sticker gonna net you even more

Remember that shithead.. 1braincell or some shit..
Tried to sell his Comptech oil cap for like fiddy or something ridiculous

 

I took a razor to that thing and removed it.

 

Blue locktite on the timing belt idler pulley, because it spins counter clockwise

 

That's what I used.

What do you think of the picture of that OEM 17 year old timing belt with 51k on it I posted above?

 

Meh, no tabs on my gasket (we're talking about the manifold cover gasket, right?). And looking at the bolt pattern, there's no way one could get the gasket reversed. Again, referencing a 3G TL manifold cover gasket.

 

If you would of took the time to look at a 3G plenum gasket and compared it to a 2G, you would of seen that there not only are 'holes' for the bolts/nuts into the upper IM but they are in alignment with each other on the front and rear banks, thus making correct positioning of said gasket on either side, as shown on the link below.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...429130&jsn=411

If you would of took the time to look at a 2G Plenum gasket, (shown for your convenience below ) you hopefully would of noticed that the smaller EGR 'holes' are staggered next to the larger bolt/nut 'holes' and offset on either side, thus making it important to get the plenum gasket positioning correct (tab toward the rear), when replacing on the upper 2G IM, so that the EGR ports align.

Any more questions?

 

*if you would HAVE not of

Common mistake.

 

not as common as reversing the gasket though

 

I'll say it again: there's no way you could get that gasket backwards on a 3G.... This is a 3G forum and a 3G timing belt thread. Don't really care about 2G gaskets....

 

Don't go away mad, just go away.

 

Motley Crue fan, I knew I liked you Z.

 

That timing belt looks perfectly fine to me. I wouldn't doubt that it would last forever in warmer climate areas.

 

Here's a picture of the water pump that came out of the 03 CL-S. It must been one of those last ones Aisin made for Honda back in 2003-05.

 

A Honda/Aisin water pump came out of my 2008 TL.

 

I think he meant branded as both on one piece

 

out of a 2008 TL built January 2008.

 

^
It appears t-rd's date range information my be in error?

 

zeta doesn't make mistakes.

 

Thanks again for the help before. The car is running very well and quiet.


The job went by the book. The only outstanding issue for me is the crank pulley. I could not find a way to torque it past 125 using the usual setup (long ½ inch extension resting on a car jack stand). The extension kept twisting, the pulley holding tool would pop out and pieces would fly everywhere.

In the end, I torqued it to 47 and used my impact to try and turn it another 60 degrees. My dewalt 899 puts out around 400 in 2nd. After 5 continuous seconds of impacting with the lisle socket, I was only able to get about halfway to the 60 degrees. ETCG only did a second of impacting when tightening his pulley bolt on his recent TL timing belt video. I’m hesitant to use 3rd because it puts out around 900.I don’t have a lot of experience using impacts and I don’t want to break the crankshaft bolt.

I’m curious if anyone had any tips for this part of the job. I’m thinking of getting a long impact extension but can’t find one long enough. Thanks again for any replies.

 

Don't worry, the crank will do the rest

 

I had the same issue...
but Majofo is right...it turns the way of the tightening anyway which is why it's so hard to get off.

 

I'm pretty sure most shops hit it with the (1200 ft lb of nut busting torque) impact for a second and call it a day

 

I did that on the MDX when the crank pulley tore apart
Still good

 

Yep

 

In my experience, you just have to get that crank pulley tool with a breaker bar wedged in the perfect spot & have a jack stand holding the extension in place so you can really go at it. Out of all the BS I've dealt with working on cars, the crank pulley was never an issue..

 

Thanks for all the replies. I'll stick a mirror down there tonight to check the marks I made when trying to add 60 degrees. Hopefully they are closer than when I finished the job. If I have the wheel off anytime soon, I zap it with my impact on #3 mode for a second.

The only thing I would add to all the tips on this thread is be aware that the upper covers have a groove that slides down into a ridge on the lower cover. For some reason, I missed this the first time I put on the covers. When I was done tightening the rear upper cover, I noticed it was bulging where it connected to the lower cover. I undid that rear cover and discovered I had bent the ridge on the lower cover and the groove on the upper rear cover enough to require some epoxy to fix.

Also, lots of posters mentioned the bolts on the cover were very difficult. These bolts did not give me much trouble. I used a 1/4 flex-head ratchet.

 

Never had that problem. You need put a 1/2" ratchet on the holder tool and wedge it against the lower control arm SOLID then it won't move. I use a massive Tekton 1/2" drive torque rated for 250 ft-lb and torque it to 181 ft-lb.

 

The less pieces the better. I use a standard breaker bar with the pulley tool wedged against the floor. Another breaker bar with the pulley bolt socket. I have a curb in my garage that allows me to put the bar on my shoulder and push toward the back of the car. After I've got it good and stung I go for the 1/2" torque set to 140->160->181 just so I can tell what sort of progress I'm making.

I'm about to undertake this again, along with the damn leaky oil pump/pan.