6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Correct. No wiring harnesses or ECU. The module splices into your current wiring harness.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and he is making a big batch of redesigned ones right now that are supposed to be cheaper than they are now.

00 acura tl

do we have to change the gauges if were keepint the same engine?

00 acura tl

is the styff you talking about on page 7?

00 acura tl

is the stuff you talking about on page 7?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Yea you can keep the same gauges, but they will have the PRND4321 that you have on your tachometer. I am still unclear as yo whether or not the CL-S gauges are a direct plug and play with the TL-P dash harness.
Yea the stuff for the trans on page 7 and the other list of random nuts and bolts I was talking about on page 8.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I went over to my mom's to hook up the new battery and run the car for a little bit (since it hadn't been run in a while) and when I was hooking up the battery the horn honked and scared the SHIT out of me. Will it just keep honking and I have to go inside the car and start it or just hit one of the buttons on the remote? It was kind of late and the neighbor's dog was already barking his ass off so I'm just going to do it during the daytime.

MurkyRiversTL

thats wierd.... do you still have the engine in. Why would it be honking?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

yeah everything is still in just the battery was dead so i got the new one and tried to start it up since it hadn't been run in a while

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

ya the engine is still in, that's why he went to RUN it.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I thought it may have something to do with the anti-theft system.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

johnr5

They are. I have them.

Also, If Kris is a college kid, i would think he'd want just the tranny since his budget would be realistically tight.

Originally, i just wanted the transmission also because i was tired of my tranny dying on me. I'd care less about a faster motor since there's always the option of supercharging or turbo down the road.. the only reason why i got the type-S motor was because it was right around the corner.

MurkyRiversTL

I asked if th engine was in, because whe I had my engine remove, I connected the new wiring harness's and when I connected the battery the horn would not shut up..... now Im hoping it was just because my battery was going dead.


Oh and I guess I should have read that he was going to run..... Im very tired. I was putting my car back together, hopefully for the last time.

fsttyms1

Mine did the same as well. Im thinking it was that? There was something else that was unplugged too that i plugged in about the time i went to have the key programed (but i don't remember what it was (i left the horn unhooked for about a month is i didn't have it going off and dont know exactly what got it to stop)

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Hmm I'm thinking I'll just hook up the battery and let the horn just keep honking and just go around and get in the cabin and try and start it up. That should work, huh? Like I said, I can't find the remote right now (my mom lost it) so I can't just hit the disarm and see if that works. I'm going to try that later and keep you updated.

I'm also going to try and break off the wheel lock so I can change the flat tire up front (I lost my wheel lock key somewhere). Hopefully I can get the lock off and not have to get it towed to a tire place for them to do it.

00 acura tl

hmm thx ksuchdeve just waiting to see if richies module going to work or not but my car is an 00 so you think it will work on it since my tranny has 5 speeds

johnr5

hey.. here's the problem to your guys issues with the horn honking. It's the alarm system. If the car was armed/doors locked before the battery was removed, it'll start going off once the battery's connected again.

Happens to all Accords, TLs, and CLs... you're straight. If you connect your battery and both the lights and horn go off, just use the remote. it'll take two seconds. You're welcome

And kris, post a pic of the wheel lock nut that you want to take off.. i think I may have the key that matches it. Post on here... I'll check in my box of nuts. .... nuts... LOL

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I'm not really the person to be asking. We don't really know since it hasn't been proven to work on any of the TL's yet. Richie thinks that the Accord module will work with the TL-P's and he is going to have to make a new one to make the Type-S ECU's work. All in due time, my friend.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

That's what I kind of figured. Like I said I don't know where my remote is at the moment and it was too late at night for me to hook it up and let it honk while I run around and start the car.


I'll get up a picture of the wheel lock as soon as I can. I am actually gonna go there after work and try and start the car again and just bust off the lock like you were saying.

spiro

Try this link:
http://www./forums/showthread.php?t=...d+swap&page=33

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Quick question while I type my update... does burning trans fluid smell like burning oil?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Well, I tried to disarm the alarm system by running around and starting the car while it was going off, but that didn't work. It just stayed on when the car was on. I called the local dealership and the guy in service explained to me how to disarm it with just the key. After you connect the battery, you have to take your key to the passenger side door and lock, then unlock the doors from the outside. Worked like a charm.


I think my IACV is shot, maybe even beyond the cleaning method. My RPMs were jumping like crazy when in park (video here), and even while driving (video here). When I let my foot off the gas (closing the butterfly valve) while going about 40 the RPMs were still jumping up and down and you can physically feel the car shaking-- rather lurching forward as the RPMs climb.



Shifts are HARSH and it's slipping pretty bad. It would take a full 1-2 seconds to go from 1st to 2nd. The people behind me were getting pretty pissed. Then when I stopped, it would take a full second for it to get back in first and it my foot wasn't putting the brake pedal into the engine bay, I was gonna get the car in front of me.


Also, my temp gauge wasn't working in the instrument cluster .

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Well, I tried to disarm the alarm system by running around and starting the car while it was going off, but that didn't work. It just stayed on when the car was on. I called the local dealership and the guy in service explained to me how to disarm it with just the key. After you connect the battery, you have to take your key to the passenger side door and lock, then unlock the doors from the outside. Worked like a charm.


I think my IACV is shot, maybe even beyond the cleaning method. My RPMs were jumping like crazy when in park (video here), and even while driving (video here). When I let my foot off the gas (closing the butterfly valve) while going about 40 the RPMs were still jumping up and down and you can physically feel the car shaking-- rather lurching forward as the RPMs climb.



Shifts are HARSH and it's slipping pretty bad. It would take a full 1-2 seconds to go from 1st to 2nd. The people behind me were getting pretty pissed. Then when I stopped, it would take a full second for it to get back in first and it my foot wasn't putting the brake pedal into the engine bay, I was gonna tag the car in front of me.


Also, my temp gauge wasn't working in the instrument cluster .

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

well my rpm dont jump like that but i got the harsh shifts in all gears and it takes about 2-4 sec for me before it shifts.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Yea the RPMs aare something totally different. A little bit before the trans started going out, my IACV was already messing up. I cleaned it out when I was doing the Outlaw Engineering spacers, but it feels like it's stuck open. It even feels like I have to push the brake harder b/c the IACV is stuck open and revs the motor up while I'm stopped.

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

just means it's time to get started!

johnr5

idle control valve COULD be bad.. BUT.. it may not as well

Check the following:

1. Coolant level
2. Oil Level

Any of these levels at low will make the rpms bounce like a mother.

I need say nothing more.

I have a spare idle control valve laying around... i think. I'll bring my code reader with me

You're lucky you know me. lol

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like a damn muscle car sitting there in park.

00 acura tl

so i need all these parts?

#4,6,9 and the 16s fromt the page 7 for the hand brake

these parts from page 8

PARKING BRAKE
54116-SV4-000 PIN, LINKAGE
54357-SF1-003 PLATE, CHANGE WIRE
54118-S10-000 WASHER ASSY., WIRE

CLUTCH SLAVE/MASTER CYLINDER LINES
46942-S5A-003 PIN, SNAP
46943-S5A-003 SEAL, RING
46944-S5A-J01 CONNECTOR
46911-S70-003 PIN, LOCK (8MM)
46912-S84-A00 PIN, CLUTCH PEDAL
46928-S3M-A01 SEAL, MASTER CYLINDER
94070-08080 NUT-WASHER (8MM) X 2
46971-S3M-A01 TUBE, CLUTCH FLUID

CLUTCH PEDAL
(if you get the whole clutch pedal assembly you probably won't need most of this)
92201-10070-0J BOLT, HEX. (10X70)
94002-12080-0S NUT, HEX. (12MM) X 2
94050-10080 NUT, FLANGE (10MM)
35710-SE3-A01S WITCH ASSY., CLUTCH (12MM) (INHIBITER)
36760-SM4-003S WITCH ASSY., CLUTCH
93403-08016-08 BOLT-WASHER (8X16)
46981-SR3-930 BUSH A, ASSISTANT CLUTCH X 2
46911-SD4-930 BUSH, PEDAL PIN
46907-SR3-010 SPRING, CLUTCH ASSISTANT

and these from page 1

03 CLs-6 speed manual
03 CLs-6 Flywheel 22105-PGE-305
03 CLs-6 Clutch Assembly 22105-PGE-305 (unfortunately right now there aren’t many options for aftermarket clutches) - $223 (for clutch and flywheel)
03 CLs-6 Flywheel bolts (Qty 8) 90011-PGE-000 - $2.08 x 8 = $16.64
03 CLs-6 Shifter and cables. 54100-S3M-A01 - $59.03, 54310-S3M-A01 - $109.49
03 CLs-6 Gauges
03 CLs-6 Hydraulic Clutch lines. 46960-S3M-A01 - $4.31, & 46970-S3M-A01 - $6.40
03 CLs-6 Trans mounts (2 of them) 50806-S3M-A03 - $37.89, 50805-S3M-A03 - $26.79
03 CLs-6 Cup Holder 77230-S3M-A01ZA - $81.80 – eBay - $37.00
03 CLs-6 Parking brake 47105-S3M-A04ZA - $47.33 and to go with it,
Spring 47537-671-670 - $1.29, Nut 47522-594-000 - $0.73, Equalizer pin 47365-538-000 - $0.47, Equalizer 47360-SB2-000 - $1.36
BRAKE PEDAL ASSY 46600-S3M-A51 - $51.26
If you decide to buy it new you will need the pedal and mount CLUTCH PEDAL 46910-S3M-A01 - $46.80 & CLUTCH PEDAL BRACKET 46990-S84-A01 - $18.98
MASTER CYLINDER ASSY 46922-S3M-A01 - $52.58 & Clutch Fluid Tank 46965-S5A-013 - $14.61, & Clutch Hose 46961-S3M-A02 - $20.49
Shift Boot 83414-S3M-A01ZA - $91.61 – eBay - $11.94
Shift Knob 54102-SL0-023ZB - $161.25 – reuse stock

00 acura tl

ksuchdeve or kris can you make me clear of what i need to complete my swap im going to use my tl-p engine so im going to get richies module also

johnr5

come down here, we'll do it for you ... seriously. lol

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

You've basically got it. You just have to look at parts diagrams and see what you need for your job.

00 acura tl

ii ght thx kris

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Well, I checked them earlier and the oil was good as well as the coolant so hopefully it's just the IACV and not anything else .

00 acura tl

so richies module is working?

fsttyms1

Your rpm problem could also be a vacuum leak.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input, Kris. I'm sure John can help me figure out what it is when he gets here.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Let me expand on my response a little more. I was just running my car last night with the auto trans still in there, I just wanted to see how everything else ran on the car so I wouldn't run into any major problems while doing the swap.

Richie is still working on making the batch of updated modules. He is waiting on his circuit boards and is going to get started. He estimated another 4-6 weeks before he has those done, then he's moving back to the Type-S harnesses.