So I had 3 codes, one speed sensor related and 2 related to abs modulator. I've had ABS ! and VSA lights on for a while. I replaced the speed sensor today and that code went away but all 3 lights remain after clearing them. Okay, so it's my modulator. I bought a used one off ebay for $50 bucks.

Is this replacement as simple as disconnect brake lines, unclip modulator attachment, replace with used modulator, and bleed brakes? I've seen other posts where people say dealer software programming is required but other people say no software reprogramming is needed. I have a dealer scanner I bought off ebay that allows me to view/clear abs codes for hondas and acuras.

My remaining codes are 51-1 ABS Pump motor failure, 53-1 abs pump motor relay short circuit, and 32-1 right front outlet solenoid valve fail (new code appeared after changing speed rear speed sensor) all of which are abs codes and related to my modulator according to my google fu. I tested my speed sensor works after replacing by doing a live scan on that sensor and making sure it displayed the proper mph related to my speedometer.

Honestly I'm pretty sure my ABS still works because I don't skid when braking, but I have the part and for $50 bucks It doesn't seem like too difficult of a repair if it's as easy as it appears to be. Those 3 lights have been on for over a year and they're starting to get on my nerves.

 

The attachment below is from a CL-S Helms manual, it may give you some guidance. It should not be that different from your 2G TL.
Good Luck!

 

There is no module programming on these. Should be plug and play.

Here's the SERVICE MANUAL for refernce.

 

So on my replacement abs modulator, they cut then brake lines rather than removing them very close to the bolt. I can unscrew the connector with a 10mm wrench but I'm not sure how to remove the brake line as it appears to be stuck in there. The picture isn't the exact layout of my modulator but gives a good representation of what I'm dealing with. I tried to look on oemacuraparts.com for replacement fittings rather than trying to pry the brake line out but can't seem to find any for an 03 tls. Any ideas on how to get those out or can you point me in the right direction on how to find replacement fittings? Maybe I'm just not understanding the part diagram.

 

they're likely just flared lines, remove nut and pop it off.. friction fit on

 

Are those fittings part of the brake line so if I just unscrew all of the existing fittings on my replacement modulator my existing brake lines will be able to screw right in to the replacement?

 

 

Thanks thoiboi but do I really need to do this? I just called the acura dealer and they said the fitting is attached to the brake line so if I remove all the fittings on my replacement, all I have to do is attach my cars brake lines (fittings already attached) to the new abs modulator since the fitting is attached to the brake line and just screws into the modulator. I was thinking I would have to connect the brake lines to the fitting but I think I guessed wrong.

 

Look at 'D' on the 'modulator removal & installation' attachment. It answers your question in the affirmative. Those are the brake lines coming from the car.

 

Do NOT use a regular box wrench on those connections. Use the correct tool or you'll round the connection off and be very upset at yourself. You'll need a flare wrench set. Harbor Freight it for cheap.

 

Well I'm upset at myself haha - I snapped one of the fittings off the brake line. I need to stop trying to diy things, ok what do I do now? Is this where the flare tool comes into play? I got 5 of the 6 lines off and the last one i snapped the fitting right off OH YEA! I have the new abs pump in place and now need a solution to put a fitting on the line I snapped it on, the line is still long enough to reach if I can find a way to put a new fitting on.

 

I may have to admit defeat and take it to a mechanic now, but at least I can pretty much install the replacement abs pump and attach 5 of the 6 brake lines.

 

You snapped an abs line off? Not a heck of a lot you can do there. Two options (1) replace the entire line which would only come from Honda/Acura or (2) use something like (first pic with the white circles) https://carfromjapan.com/article/car-maintenance/right-time-brake-line-repair/

then you would have to flare the other went for the fitting in to the pump.

 

The problem is acura doesn't have this part in stock in all of the USA nor do their vendor warehouses. Can't even find it online.

So could I use this? Basically I can get this brake line in any length and it's bendable and it also has the fitting and nipple to the attach to the abs pump and master cylinder which is the other end of the line.

I can use that or try and find a used brake pipe at a junkyard.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...per+Brake+Line

 

you can use that type of brake line, but to repair you're going to need more than a basic level of tools. Unless you're knowledgeable about what you're doing here you might want to have a shop repair the line. Just my 0.02 here.

What you need is a flaring tool, the link in my previous post and depending on where... You'll need to bend the line without crimping it.

 

abs modulator has been installed, I ended up using generic brake line from advance auto. All 3 lights (vsa, !, and abs) immediately went off upon starting the car. My brakes feel like mush right now, pedal straight to the floor, hopefully bleeding the brakes tomorrow resolves this problem. My dash is error free : )

 

Definitely bleed them. In addition, find a dirt or gravel road and do several ABS stops to activate the pump then bleed the brakes one last time.

Doing this should get any air trapped in the modulator out into the lines which is the reason for the final bleeding after the ABS activation stops.

 

Nicely done! You faced the issue nicely.
If you haven't done a bleed of the brakes then ya, you have air in there for sure. I'd suggest following the proper bleed procedure (start with the furthest away from master.... etc.) because you made a big change to the system and a quick bleed isn't likely going to get you the right feel. Just takes some time, but you're on the home stretch.

 

I bleed the brakes today and you can stick a fork in this project - she's done! No errors present on the dash or with my scan tool. Thanks everyone!