I have a 2007 MDX which was diagnosed with the 'strawberry shake' syndrome. So I need to replace the transmission and radiator/hoses. I am not finding much on the internet for this gen MDX. So my question: Is it easier to remove the whole engine, trans, subframe to replace the trans, or just remove the trans? I have a 2 post lift so dropping it out the bottom is doable. I need to map out my process for this job.

 

This may help:


Transmission Removal

Transmission Removal

Special Tools Required
^Engine support hanger, A and Reds AAR-T-12566
^Engine hanger balancer bar VSB02C000019
^Engine hanger adapter set VSB02C000031
^Front subframe adapter EQS02BMDXSB0
These special tools are available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program 1-888-424-6857.

NOTE:
^Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
^Special tool Reds engine support hanger AAR-T-12566 must be used with the side engine mount installed.

1.Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if equipped).
2.Disconnect the support strut from the pivot ball on both sides (bolted to the hood). Raise and secure the hood in a vertical position. Remove the left side pivot ball and install it into the lower threaded hole, then reattach the support strut.

NOTE: Do not attempt to close the hood with the support strut in the vertical position; it will damage the support strut and the hood.

3.Set the wheels in the straight ahead position, and lock the steering wheel.
4.Drain the power steering system fluid from the reservoir.
5.Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, then disconnect the positive terminal from the battery.
6.Remove the battery hold-down bracket, and remove the battery cover, battery, and battery tray.
7.Remove the intake manifold cover, intake air duct, and air cleaner housing.
8.Remove the under-hood subfuse box from its bracket, and remove the bracket from the battery base.
9.Remove the battery base and battery base bracket.
10.Remove the front bulkhead cover.
11.Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
12.Remove the transmission undercover and splash shield.





13.Remove the drain plug (A) and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).





14.Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
15.Disconnect the steering joint.
16.Remove the power steering pump outlet line (A) from the power steering pump, and remove the hose clamp bolt (B).





17.Disconnect the transmission breather hose (A) from the breather pipe (B) at the transmission housing.





18.Disconnect the vacuum hose (C) from the vacuum line (D) and remove the vacuum line bolt.
19.Disconnect the starter cables (A) from the starter, and remove the harness clamp (B) from the clamp bracket (C).





20.Disconnect the solenoid harness connector (D).
21.Remove the dipstick, then remove the starter (A) and gasket (B).





22.Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A).





23.Remove the spring clip/washer (B) and control pin (C) then separate the shift cable end (D) from the control lever (E).
24.Check the synthetic resin bushing (F) in the shift cable end for a proper fit and wear. If the bushing is loose or worn, replace the shift cable.
25.Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (A) A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (B) and 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector (C) and remove the harness cover mounting bolt (D).





26.Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (A).





27.Remove the bolts securing the harness cover (B).
28.Disconnect the transmission range switch connector (A) and remove the harness clamp (B) from the clamp bracket (C).





29.Remove the ATF cooler hoses (A) from the ATF cooler lines (B). Turn the ends of the cooler hoses up to prevent ATF from flowing out, then plug the cooler hoses and lines.





30.Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (A) output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (B) ATF temperature sensor connector (C) and 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector (D).





31.Disconnect the 2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector (A) and remove the vacuum line bolt (B).





32.Remove the bolt securing the engine mount control solenoid valve mounting bracket.





33.Remove the connector bracket from the engine front cylinder head; use the bracket bolt hole to attach engine hanger balancer bar front arm.





34.Remove the transfer breather bracket from the engine rear cylinder head; use the bracket bolt hole to attach engine hanger balancer bar rear arm.





35.Remove the service caps (A) for the front damper flange nuts from the cowl cover (B). Position the engine hanger adapters (VSB02C000031) over the damper flange nuts.





36.Install the engine balance bar (VSB02C000019); attach the front arm (A) to the front cylinder head with a spacer and the 10 mm bolt, and attach the rear arm (B) to the rear cylinder head with the 8 mm bolt.





37.Install the engine support hanger (AAR-T-12566) to the vehicle, and attach the hook to the slotted hole in the engine balance bar. Tighten the wing nut (C) by hand, and to lift and support the engine.
38.Remove the front mount stop (A) and front mount bolt (B).





39.Remove the front subframe stiffener.





40.Remove the exhaust pipe A and its mount (B).





41.Disconnect the headlight adjuster leveling sensor connector (A) on both lower arms, and remove the harness clamps (B) from the front subframe for model equipped with the headlight adjuster leveling system.





42.Remove the lock pins (A) and castle nuts (B) and separate the lower arms (C) from the knuckles (D).





43.Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench (E) in the top of the ball joint pin (F) and remove the nuts (G) then separate the stabilizer link (H).
44.Remove the cotter pins (I) and nuts (J) and separate the tie-rod end ball joints (K) from the knuckles.
45.Remove the bolt securing the transfer breather hose bracket (A) and disconnect the breather hose (B) from the breather pipe (C) on the transfer assembly.





46.Make a reference mark (A) across the propeller shaft (B) and the transfer companion flange (C) and separate the propeller shaft from the transfer companion flange.





47.Remove the transfer assembly from the transmission.





48.Remove the torque converter cover (A) and remove the drive plate bolts (B) (8) while rotating the crankshaft pulley.





49.Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector.





50.Loosen the hose clamp bolt, then disconnect the power steering fluid hose from the fluid line at the left front of the subframe.





51.Remove the transmission lower mount bolt.





52.Remove the four rear mount bracket bolts.





53.Remove the bolt securing the power steering fluid line clamp bracket (A) on the rear mount bracket, and turn the bracket away from the rear mount bracket.





54.Loosen the four bolts (A) holding the adjustable arms (B) of the front subframe adapter (EQS02BMDXSB0) to its center plate.

NOTE: The adapter is designed to be used with a commercially available transmission jack.





55.Line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the corner of the jack base, then attach the adapter (EQS02BMDXB0) to the jack base with the bolts (A) that came with the jack. Tighten the bolts securely.





56.Raise the jack to the vehicle height, then attach the adapter to the front subframe using the subframe stiffener mounting bolts (B) and bolt holes.
57.Remove the six bolts securing the front stiffeners (A) and rear stiffeners (B) and four bolts securing the front subframe (C) and lower the front subframe.





58.Remove the transmission lower mount (A).





59.Remove the transmission ground terminal (B).
60.Remove the driveshafts from the differential and the intermediate shaft. Coat all precision machined surfaces with clean engine oil, then put plastic bags over driveshaft ends.





61.Remove the exhaust manifold bracket (A) and heat shield (B).





62.Remove the intermediate shaft (C). Coat all precision machined surfaces with clean engine oil, then put the plastic bags over intermediate shaft ends.
63.Remove the upper transmission housing mounting bolts.





64.Remove the lower transmission housing mounting bolts.





65.Remove the harness clamp bracket (A) from the front mount bracket (B) and remove the mount bracket.





66.Remove the transmission housing mounting bolt (C) using a socket 22 mm in length.
67.Remove the rear transmission housing mounting bolts.





68.Place a jack under the transmission.
69.Lower the transmission by loosening the wing nut of the engine support hanger, and tilt the engine just enough for the transmission to clear its end from the side frame.
70.Slide the transmission away from the engine to remove it from the vehicle.
71.Remove the torque converter and dowel pins.





72.Remove the drive plate (A) and washer (B) from the engine crankshaft, and replace the drive plate whenever the transmission is removed from the engine.

 

Zeta - Thank you as always. Now for follow up.....

1) Can you confirm if the above instructions are specific to the 2007 MDX, or generic instructions?
2) Is the following generalized summary an accurate one regarding the trans removal: support the engine and transmission from a hanger above; remove everything connected to the transmission; remove the subframe to expose the hanging engine/transmission; get a transmission jack under the transmission and then separate the transmission from the engine; roll the transmission out from under the car and now there is a standalone transmission.(wow, it sounds super simple in this summarized form)
3) Any guesstimate on the weight of the engine and trans together?
4) Given I also have to remove the radiator and as many hoses as I can to flush out.....is there any order of removal (e.g. radiator first, then trans....vice versa) that makes sense? Or is all a dime a piece?

 

I'll share my two cents from the perspective of owning two 08 MDXs and having dropped the subframe with motor/trans assy at junkyard to remove engine. There are a few things that make working on the MDX difficult: 1)All wheel drive means more components to remove/disconnect 2) Engine and trans sit low, making it difficult to reach parts from top. 3) Raised fender rails are incapable of holding significant weight. 4) Radiator must be removed before removing fans and front motor mount.

So, that said I would drain and remove the radiator and trans cooler lines first. Then disconnect what connects the engine and trans to the chassis (i.e. axles, driveshaft, steering input, wire harness). Next support the subframe with at least 4 jackstands from the bottom. Then, unbolt the four corners of crossmember and loosen the side bolts which hold the subframe to the body. Pop the lower ball joints from the knuckles (or possibly unbolt the tops of the shock assemblies from chassis - I didnt try this). Slowly raise the vehicle while watching the eng/trans/subframe come down, to make sure nothing else is connected to chassis. When fully cleared, lift the chassis high enough to work on the trans.
GL

 

619rcr - Just to make sure I understand.....are you suggesting to keep the engine/trans/sub frame together - disconnect everything connected to the engine/trans/sub frame and then raise the vehicle leaving the engine/trans/sub frame resting on jack stands. Then remove the trans from the engine/sub frame?

 

1) I found it with a search:



For all the others, I'd go with 619rcr's removal / repair expertise pointers on a beast like the MDX.

 

Yes, more of a personal preference. Although, I do have one of those 4 point engine support braces new in the box. Wouldn't feel comfortable with the motor hanging from it over my head. Not to mention the trans is big and bulky. So, would rather move it the least distance from the ground.

Lastly, forgot to mention earlier that the torque converter bolts would be easier to remove before dropping the subframe.

 

Thank you both! I will will follow your suggestion 619rcr. This method makes sense to me in totality and I like the idea of everything being on the ground. And since I have to take the radiator hour anyway, there might be less to disconnect to drop engine/trans together. This will be a fall/winter project and I will update with pics and notes for the next person who may attempt this.

 

I have removed the radiator and flushed the coolant system as best as I can. My next stage is to move the MDX into the garage and begin removing everything to drop the engine/trans. I have two questions from my research for the crowd:

1) According to the SM I need to remove the "steering wheel"......does anyone know why that step is necessary?


2) 619rr (or anyone) - why do you recommend removing the torque converter bolts before dropping the subframe? I've seen this in other research, but I'm not clear why.

Thanks all!

 

I need a quick reality check. I am about to disconnect the exhaust just below the engine (see image below -thanks Zeta) as I'm near ready to disconnect the subframe from the body. As I was looking at everything, it seems I should be able to disconnect the exhaust anywhere down stream so long as its not connected to the body.....hence I can disconnect the exhaust further down by the second cat which is easier to access and if bolts snap (its all pretty rusty) much easier to remedy. Am I missing anything? Any reason I can't leave the exhaust depicted below attached to the engine and disconnect it downstream (say the far left connection point below)? I'm sure by the time anyone sees this I will have already moved forward but I'd thought I'd ask.........happy labor day.

 

Its out! 619rcr provided good advice! I have no major lessons learned as it was pretty straight forward but a few thoughts for the next guy working on a 2007 MDX:

1) The power steering system is all self-contained on the subframe except for the steering linkage on the interior floor and the cylindrical cooling radiator on the bottom front of the radiator area. That had to be disconnected then drained. I also removed the PS reservoir just to get it out of the way. The pump and rack/pinion stayed in place.....don't forget the PS sensor connector on the passenger side of the rack though.
1b) I did not need to remove the steering wheel like the SM called for. By loosening both fasteners on the joint I was easily able to move it up and off the rack spline. No idea why the SM calls for removing the steering wheel.
2) There were only 2 fuel lines to disconnect. I thought there would be three.
3) I would remove the inner wheel well plastic splash guards in the beginning. I worked around them until I finally got frustrated and removed them. It opened up a lot visibility and access.
4) I disconnected the passenger side motor mount by just removing the two bolts attaching the mount to the engine itself. They are the easiest ones to access. Since the body was going to move up, I didn't need to remove the entire mount. All the other mounts are on the subframe.
5) I'm not sure if the AC compressor could be moved out of the way if the radiator was still place. With the radiator removed I was able to shimmy the condenser forward enough to get the compressor out of the way.






The next phase is removing the trans.
I hope this helps someone.

 

Sorry for not responding to other posts. I haven't been on here much lately. Life stuff.

Anyways, glad to hear it worked out and GL with the trans swap.

 

So I removed all 7 bolts mounting the transfer case to the trans (I confirmed from an O'Reilly's pic of a replacement case that there are 7 and not 8 bolts like some videos suggested) and I can't get it to separate. I smacked it directly with a rubber mallet and also using a hammer and 2x4s. I also tried separating with a crowbar in the circled area below. Before I crack anything, can anyone confirm the bolts in the circled area are not also mounting bolts. I am assuming those bolts and that metal piece are attached to the transfer case and come out with the transfer case. Any thoughts?


MDX 2007 transfer case

 

Here is the bolt layout.
There appears to be a dowel pin on top. It may be rusty and difficult to remove.

 

I think you got all of them, but reference this ebay listing and pic to ensure you've got the right ones:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/403293016586

 

Got it off! I think it was in part the pin and my failure to understand there was quite a bit of spline that goes into the transfer case. For the record the bolts I highlighted earlier do indeed stay with the transferase. The bolt heads were what I ended up using to pry on with a large crowbar. Eventually I shimmied it off.

 

619rcr - I'm ready to separate the old transmission from the engine. But I am concerned there wont be enough room get the trans out. From eyeballing it, I worry the motor mount bracket on the subframe and/or the coolant stuff above the trans will block the removal. Am I over analyzing? Should I be removing more? If so, what? Thanks for any ideas.

 

Yes, the subframe is in the way of lowering the transmission assembly, as intended. So use an Engine Hoist to jack up the engine+transmission and disconnect it from the subframe.
Move it away from the subframe.
Then use a transmission jack to support and disconnect the transmission assembly.
Put the engine (oil pan) on the empty spare tire.

And before you do that, remove the exhaust J-pipe.

 

Sorry, I don't check here very often. To get more clearance, should remove the intake manifold and coolant inlet outlet pipe from the side of the heads. Before that drain the block, there is a small brass fitting on the back near the oil filter housing.

btw, PM will yield a quicker response. GL.

 

So far success thanks to you all! I got the transmission out and then the junkyard trans in and so have some lessons learned.



1) There are 8 bolts holding the bell housing. There is one hidden up above the output shaft seal on the passenger side. There is also a bolt from the front motor mount to the side of the housing underneath the starter.

2) If you can take the J-exhaust pipe off, then do it. That will allow you to remove the transfer case and the output shaft and heat shield easily. I could not remove it without snaping bolts so I worked around it. That was very annoying.

3) To remove the transfer case, I removed all the bolts and used a large crow bar to separate from the trans, then shimmied it off as far as I could go before hitting the J-pipe, which was about ¾ off the splines. Then while separating the transmission off the engine, there was now another inch or so from the J-pipe and I removed the transfer case from under the cradle.

4) To maximize room to remove, I removed the damper (square piece of rubber next the front motor mount) and the water passage above the transmission. And I removed the power steering hose from the rack to the front of the engine along the cradle; this didn’t provide more room, but protected it from damage during removal.

5) With the engine still in the cradle I was able to separate the trans from the engine and tilt the trans down. I had help, but we eventually shimmied it up and out of the cradle with the engine hoist.

6) To install the junkyard trans I fabricated a piece of metal to keep the torque converter in place.

7) I also purchased the leveling device and swiveling hook so I could maneuver the trans in small increments which made installation so easy I did it by myself.




8) Random lesson learned is keep track of the which bell housing bolts go where. I did do that…..but I mirrored the location upon installation and took a bit to figure out why one bolt just wouldn’t seat properly.

9) Random lesson learned is you cannot buy front lower control arm ball joints. You have to buy the whole control arm. Grrrrrr.

10) Random lesson learned is have lots of absorbable on hand and accept the fact that trans fluid will spill even if you drained it.

 

Update: I got everything installed, connectors connected, vacuum tubes attached......and it wont start. OY! One issue I had before I removed the transmission was the shifter not shifting out of Park. I used a screwdriver to bypass the lock and shift into neutral and it would start with no issue. But now, with the shifter in neutral, I turn the key and I hear a click but no crank. I assume the solenoid activating, but don't understand why the starter would not crank if the solenoid powered?? I also notices the immobilizer light only blinks for an instant when turning the key to the ON position. It does not flash or stay on. I double checked all the connectors I can see from the top, re-installed the PCM B and C connectors. I checked the fuses in the fuse box next to the battery (all good). I "think" I reset the alarm system by turning the key in the drivers door to unlock, lock, then unlock.

I will start diagnosing with the shifter not shifting into park and go from there.....but since it was running before the trans removal I think the most likely issue is something simple like an unconnected wire harness or sensor. My questions for the gang are:

1) Could a faulty (or disconnected) sensor on the trans cause these symptoms? If so, which ones?

2) Does the fact the immobilizer only blinks for a moment (no flash or staying on) when turning the key to ON indicate anything? All the diagnosis I've read only discuss the immobilizer light in three states before starting 1) not on all, 2) flashing, 3) staying on.

Thanks all for any ideas or thoughts.

 

Check the operation of the Park-Neutral switch.
A green P or L symbol should light up on the instrument panel before starting the engine.

 

Thanks Dundukov- Yes, a green "D" illuminates along with a red "P" in the ON position, then the D goes off in about 2 seconds leaving just the red P.

 

ok then check for power to the starter solenoid when you turn the key to the start position, if so and you hear a click then it could be oxidized contacts on the starter solenoid.

 

I confirmed, there is 12V at the solenoid when the key is turned to START. And after re-connecting the solenoid wire, I confirmed there is a click, on START. I also confirmed there is a constant 12V on the big bolt/wire to the starter. Can you expand on the oxidized contacts on the starter solenoid?

On a similar note, I confirmed the brake pedal position switch works, but the brake lights don't activate. I have not diagnosed any further yet, but i state this if it helps with your diagnosis. And thanks again Dundukov!

 

Any chance your battery just needs a charge/replacement

 

I charged the battery overnight and just tightened it all down to be sure and still the same results. The immobilizer light flashes for a millisecond, then goes off. In the START position the starter solenoid clicked, but no crank.

Can you confirm if the starter will even crank when the immobilizer is not properly working?

 

Inside the starter, there are pairs of copper contacts attached to one side of the starter solenoid. When the solenoid moves toward the engine flywheel, it engages these contacts and supplies power to the starter rotor (via the carbon brushes). So you may have oxidized solenoid contacts that are not making contact with each other, or the carbon brushes are worn/misaligned and not making contact with the rotor commutator.

 

Issue solved! I am very embarrassed to admit the started power cable/wire was not tighten. With that tightened properly, it started right up. Though I don't understand how it started with the immobilizer light just blink quickly once in the ON position and not flashing slowly then going off......but I'll not worry about that for now. I am very relived the PCM or something else hard to diagnose is not the issue. Thank you DundukovEM and thoiboi for your help and you would right to make of me.