6 speed conversion, 2nd problem 9/2/17
#762
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by DzTL-S
kris, when i convert my integra to a 5sp i have to splice and connect wires from the shifter connection plug from your auto to set it D. i think the reason you car not reving over 5k because is still showing park on your ecu. hope that is the prob.
#763
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another member was kind enough to send me his code reader, so wed when i get home im going to hook it up and see what codes it comes up with now (oh and thanks to a faulty multi meter i am now the proud owner of a brand new Rear o2 sensor that i dont need
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#764
I need 2 more gears
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
another member was kind enough to send me his code reader, so wed when i get home im going to hook it up and see what codes it comes up with now (oh and thanks to a faulty multi meter i am now the proud owner of a brand new Rear o2 sensor that i dont need![Why Me](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/whyme.gif)
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Is the 02 sensor you bought for the 99-03 tl-p? and when you say rear you mean inside the Cat right? If that is the case and you want to unload it at a good price let me know I am sure my 99 w/130k could use a new primary.
#765
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yes the one in the cat. mine have 200k on them and are running fine (never had a issue with them yet- wouldnt replace them unless they were bad- especially at 130 bucks apiece oem
#767
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Originally Posted by blk2001tlon19s
Good luck!
We are lucky to have members on the board like that masked individual.
We are lucky to have members on the board like that masked individual.
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#769
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#770
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Well teh only code coming up is the crank sensor
:silvermad
:angryfire
i mean :wtf: i replaced teh 500 dollar sensor, and its pully it reads off of and im still getting codes from it saying something is wrong
:silvermad
:angryfire
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i mean :wtf: i replaced teh 500 dollar sensor, and its pully it reads off of and im still getting codes from it saying something is wrong
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#772
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Thread Starter
thanks. Im wondering if its the oil pump. I see that it is different for the manual over the auto. I also know there is a gaurd on the manual oil pump buy the crank position sensor that teh auto doesnt have. Im wondering if that sensor is in a slightly different position? or need that metal gaurd to function properly??? i hate to rip the side of the motor apart and buy that oil pump and have it not be whats wrong. Arggggggg
#773
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There's got to be someone out there who has the diagnostic procedure for the code your car has. I know that for each code there is a lengthy procedure to find out what's actually wrong.
Anyone got access to Alldata or Mitchell? I only have Mitchell tranny....
Anyone got access to Alldata or Mitchell? I only have Mitchell tranny....
#774
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I subscribe to ALLDATA for my other cars, but they don't have the 2nd gen TL in their database--due to a request from Honda acording to the web site:
IMPORTANT NOTICE
American Honda Motor Company has requested ALLDATA to deny access to Acura and Honda repair information. Effective immediately you will not be able to register for access to Acura or Honda vehicle repair information, Technical Service Bulletins or Recalls.
All Comments should be directed to:
American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
P. O. Box 2206
700 Van Ness Ave.
Torrance, CA 90501
Honda: 800-999-1009
Acura: 800-382-2238
ALLDATA is currently negotiating with the manufacturer to resume providing this information. At this time we cannot estimate when this will occur. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may have cause you.
Copyright © 2000-2001 ALLDATA LLC
IMPORTANT NOTICE
American Honda Motor Company has requested ALLDATA to deny access to Acura and Honda repair information. Effective immediately you will not be able to register for access to Acura or Honda vehicle repair information, Technical Service Bulletins or Recalls.
All Comments should be directed to:
American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
P. O. Box 2206
700 Van Ness Ave.
Torrance, CA 90501
Honda: 800-999-1009
Acura: 800-382-2238
ALLDATA is currently negotiating with the manufacturer to resume providing this information. At this time we cannot estimate when this will occur. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may have cause you.
Copyright © 2000-2001 ALLDATA LLC
#775
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by fla-tls
There's got to be someone out there who has the diagnostic procedure for the code your car has. I know that for each code there is a lengthy procedure to find out what's actually wrong.
Anyone got access to Alldata or Mitchell? I only have Mitchell tranny....
Anyone got access to Alldata or Mitchell? I only have Mitchell tranny....
#777
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Thread Starter
yea now i can read them
Im kinda stumped. every thing tests fine as far as testing procedures go for the sensor and all its wiring. Im not sure what else to do. I dont want to start buying parts until i figure it out. that could be expensive. I guess maybe ill takea trip to the dealer and ask a few questions
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#778
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Well i talked to a mechanic at honda and he said the code that was coing up was noise. I showed him the differences and there is a plate thats supposed t be installed on the manual motor oil pump that he thinks is a sheild, and is the reason (cause i have teh auto motor) that its throwing the code. He said to find a way to mount it in there (the part i have ordered and in my possesion) and see if that clears up the interference/noise
Ill be doing it tonight, wish me luck... (on the bright side im getting really good at this timing belt removal and install. i can probably do it in atleast a hr now)
Ill be doing it tonight, wish me luck... (on the bright side im getting really good at this timing belt removal and install. i can probably do it in atleast a hr now)
#783
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Originally Posted by blk2001tlon19s
typo
except = expect
except = expect
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I wont know till i actually do it. I need to JB Weld it in place so ill have to let it sit over night too.
#784
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Thread Starter
Ok well i took every thing apart and started the work. I pulled the sensor out and it has a big scrape mark thru it. so i started to look and its where the teeth are on the gear. Well upon further inspection its not the new gear that did it, but the old. Its slightly larger and i never noticed tht it was rubbing on it. I hope i didnt screw it up. The grove is like 1/16 deep its not much but if its messing with the way it reads the sensor???
![](https://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6011/img0009medium3zt.jpg)
Here is the gaurd
![](https://img136.imageshack.us/img136/1467/img0084medium3vy.jpg)
here is teh gaurd JB welded in. It uses 1 bolt to hold it in so i think it will be fine. that jb weld is stron stuff.
![](https://img136.imageshack.us/img136/5854/img0087medium2qz.jpg)
Also with that guard in place the sensor sits up a little more so where it reads from isnt in the littel grove cut in it by the pulley. Hopefully that helps
![](https://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6011/img0009medium3zt.jpg)
Here is the gaurd
![](https://img136.imageshack.us/img136/1467/img0084medium3vy.jpg)
here is teh gaurd JB welded in. It uses 1 bolt to hold it in so i think it will be fine. that jb weld is stron stuff.
![](https://img136.imageshack.us/img136/5854/img0087medium2qz.jpg)
Also with that guard in place the sensor sits up a little more so where it reads from isnt in the littel grove cut in it by the pulley. Hopefully that helps
#786
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Thread Starter
Find out tommorow when i put every thng back together after every thing dries.
#787
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Thread Starter
Well i put every thing back together and still doesnt work.
The code is a P0336.
I have a few options.
1. Buy the new oil pump and see if the mounting of the sensor is different.
2. Buy a new 440 dollar crank sensor to see if the one i have is damaged due to the old gear rubbing on it.
3. (per the last part of the test procedure for the code) Locate a known good ECU and try. <-- very tricky and expensive
Any one with some good suggestions???
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The code is a P0336.
I have a few options.
1. Buy the new oil pump and see if the mounting of the sensor is different.
2. Buy a new 440 dollar crank sensor to see if the one i have is damaged due to the old gear rubbing on it.
3. (per the last part of the test procedure for the code) Locate a known good ECU and try. <-- very tricky and expensive
Any one with some good suggestions???
#789
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man kris you've came so far just to be stuck up on this little stupid thing. Wish I could be of more help.
Will you be able to return the sensor if that isnt the problem or are you stuck with it?
Will you be able to return the sensor if that isnt the problem or are you stuck with it?
#790
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Kris, here is some information on various speed sensors used in automotive applications.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf
Since the CPS sensor you have basically consists of a coil and magnet mabe you could put an ohm meter on it and see what the resistance is. Might tell you if the coil is open or shorted. The ideal thing would be if you could connect an oscilloscope to the output and view the signal with the car running to see if you are getting nice clean pulses out of it.
Since the sensor is not optical mabe the grove worn in it wont hurt anything unless it has cut in far enough to screw up the coil or magnet inside.
As the document says, distance from the sensor to the teeth on the gear is critical. Do you have any adjustment or is it pretty much fixed?
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf
Since the CPS sensor you have basically consists of a coil and magnet mabe you could put an ohm meter on it and see what the resistance is. Might tell you if the coil is open or shorted. The ideal thing would be if you could connect an oscilloscope to the output and view the signal with the car running to see if you are getting nice clean pulses out of it.
Since the sensor is not optical mabe the grove worn in it wont hurt anything unless it has cut in far enough to screw up the coil or magnet inside.
As the document says, distance from the sensor to the teeth on the gear is critical. Do you have any adjustment or is it pretty much fixed?
#791
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I know you're the expert with timing belt assembly, but I too had a CKP sensor CEL before on my old Accord. Turns out the crank timing sprocket was off by one tooth in relation to the cam sprockets. The timing was off, my engine was in limp mode, and I couldn't drive faster than 3500 RPM/85 MPH.
Couldn't hurt to doublecheck the TDC marks on the sprockets. Then again, that sensor did get screwed up.
Couldn't hurt to doublecheck the TDC marks on the sprockets. Then again, that sensor did get screwed up.
#792
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Is there any info in the Helms for testing the CPS?
Originally Posted by SSMTL01
man kris you've came so far just to be stuck up on this little stupid thing. Wish I could be of more help.
Will you be able to return the sensor if that isnt the problem or are you stuck with it?
Will you be able to return the sensor if that isnt the problem or are you stuck with it?
Originally Posted by GaryBear
Kris, here is some information on various speed sensors used in automotive applications.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf
Since the CPS sensor you have basically consists of a coil and magnet mabe you could put an ohm meter on it and see what the resistance is. Might tell you if the coil is open or shorted. The ideal thing would be if you could connect an oscilloscope to the output and view the signal with the car running to see if you are getting nice clean pulses out of it.
Since the sensor is not optical mabe the grove worn in it wont hurt anything unless it has cut in far enough to screw up the coil or magnet inside.
As the document says, distance from the sensor to the teeth on the gear is critical. Do you have any adjustment or is it pretty much fixed?
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf
Since the CPS sensor you have basically consists of a coil and magnet mabe you could put an ohm meter on it and see what the resistance is. Might tell you if the coil is open or shorted. The ideal thing would be if you could connect an oscilloscope to the output and view the signal with the car running to see if you are getting nice clean pulses out of it.
Since the sensor is not optical mabe the grove worn in it wont hurt anything unless it has cut in far enough to screw up the coil or magnet inside.
As the document says, distance from the sensor to the teeth on the gear is critical. Do you have any adjustment or is it pretty much fixed?
Problem is with the sensor the 6 speed uses is a 3 wire (i forgot exactly what type it is) its different than most 2 wire style. Ill see if i can decypher the infor you gave a little more.
Originally Posted by mr.motoring
I know you're the expert with timing belt assembly, but I too had a CKP sensor CEL before on my old Accord. Turns out the crank timing sprocket was off by one tooth in relation to the cam sprockets. The timing was off, my engine was in limp mode, and I couldn't drive faster than 3500 RPM/85 MPH.
Couldn't hurt to doublecheck the TDC marks on the sprockets. Then again, that sensor did get screwed up.
Couldn't hurt to doublecheck the TDC marks on the sprockets. Then again, that sensor did get screwed up.
#793
Former Sponsor
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Kris, I was trying to see if I could help out by looking up some info on some of automotive programs. I didn't see anything about checking for certain voltages or electrical loads to see if the crank sensor is working properly. I did find this but you probably already have this info:
The CKP Sensor for the M/T has 3 wires:
1. Blue/Red (Sensor output (CKP1)
2. Brown/Yellow (G101)
3. Yellow/Black (Circuit D04)
I can look more into my program for certain info if need it.
The CKP Sensor for the M/T has 3 wires:
1. Blue/Red (Sensor output (CKP1)
2. Brown/Yellow (G101)
3. Yellow/Black (Circuit D04)
I can look more into my program for certain info if need it.
#794
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Excelerate
Kris, I was trying to see if I could help out by looking up some info on some of automotive programs. I didn't see anything about checking for certain voltages or electrical loads to see if the crank sensor is working properly. I did find this but you probably already have this info:
The CKP Sensor for the M/T has 3 wires:
1. Blue/Red (Sensor output (CKP1)
2. Brown/Yellow (G101)
3. Yellow/Black (Circuit D04)
I can look more into my program for certain info if need it.
The CKP Sensor for the M/T has 3 wires:
1. Blue/Red (Sensor output (CKP1)
2. Brown/Yellow (G101)
3. Yellow/Black (Circuit D04)
I can look more into my program for certain info if need it.
The G101 is the ground location/point.
The others have a way of testing per the manual for voltage. They all tested fine. Im going to jump out on a limb and say it may be being caused by the cam sprocket not readign TDC properly.
#795
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Thread Starter
Well i ordered the cam gear and back plate since they are different on the manual motor than the auto motor. Ill find out how they work and if they resolve the problem when ever they get here
#796
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Well i ordered the cam gear and back plate since they are different on the manual motor than the auto motor. Ill find out how they work and if they resolve the problem when ever they get here
#797
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Excelerate
You probably spent more on replacement parts and sensors than you did for the whole engine and tranny swap.
had i known there were such big and expensive differences between teh 2 motors i would have bolught a manual motor and had it shipped to save me alot of headaches
#798
2400 Watts in a TL...Why?
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
yep just about. tranny and engine combined came to 2300.00
had i known there were such big and expensive differences between teh 2 motors i would have bolught a manual motor and had it shipped to save me alot of headaches
had i known there were such big and expensive differences between teh 2 motors i would have bolught a manual motor and had it shipped to save me alot of headaches
#799
Smitty's Moral Police
I wonder if anyone would by a CL-S with an automatic motor, that previously had a manual. Talk about minizing costs
. But people would probably run from a car with a motor/tranny swap. On the other hand, the market for automatics is bigger....
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#800
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
yep just about. tranny and engine combined came to 2300.00
had i known there were such big and expensive differences between teh 2 motors i would have bolught a manual motor and had it shipped to save me alot of headaches
had i known there were such big and expensive differences between teh 2 motors i would have bolught a manual motor and had it shipped to save me alot of headaches
I feel you pain kid....goodluck and keep the patience, im next on the list for this swap