He has said numerous times that the ECU is the one from the CL-S 6MT, a new one.

 

He bought a 6 speed ECU so thats not the problem.

 

another member was kind enough to send me his code reader, so wed when i get home im going to hook it up and see what codes it comes up with now (oh and thanks to a faulty multi meter i am now the proud owner of a brand new Rear o2 sensor that i dont need

 

Is the 02 sensor you bought for the 99-03 tl-p? and when you say rear you mean inside the Cat right? If that is the case and you want to unload it at a good price let me know I am sure my 99 w/130k could use a new primary.

 

yes the one in the cat. mine have 200k on them and are running fine (never had a issue with them yet- wouldnt replace them unless they were bad- especially at 130 bucks apiece oem

 

Good luck!

We are lucky to have members on the board like that masked individual.

 

 

Let me know if you need help this evening. I may be in the area anyway. If nothing else I can lend moral support, or a bottle of Captain.

 

i had to run out of town for a bit. not sure what time ill be home.

 

Well teh only code coming up is the crank sensor :silvermad :angryfire

i mean :wtf: i replaced teh 500 dollar sensor, and its pully it reads off of and im still getting codes from it saying something is wrong :silvermad :angryfire

 

Wish I could help... I only do tranny.....

 

thanks. Im wondering if its the oil pump. I see that it is different for the manual over the auto. I also know there is a gaurd on the manual oil pump buy the crank position sensor that teh auto doesnt have. Im wondering if that sensor is in a slightly different position? or need that metal gaurd to function properly??? i hate to rip the side of the motor apart and buy that oil pump and have it not be whats wrong. Arggggggg

 

There's got to be someone out there who has the diagnostic procedure for the code your car has. I know that for each code there is a lengthy procedure to find out what's actually wrong.

Anyone got access to Alldata or Mitchell? I only have Mitchell tranny....

 

I subscribe to ALLDATA for my other cars, but they don't have the 2nd gen TL in their database--due to a request from Honda acording to the web site:
IMPORTANT NOTICE

American Honda Motor Company has requested ALLDATA to deny access to Acura and Honda repair information. Effective immediately you will not be able to register for access to Acura or Honda vehicle repair information, Technical Service Bulletins or Recalls.

All Comments should be directed to:

American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
P. O. Box 2206
700 Van Ness Ave.
Torrance, CA 90501

Honda: 800-999-1009
Acura: 800-382-2238

ALLDATA is currently negotiating with the manufacturer to resume providing this information. At this time we cannot estimate when this will occur. Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may have cause you.

Copyright © 2000-2001 ALLDATA LLC

 

I have the factory service manual. And have tested teh sensor. and wiring. its fine. It has to be that teh oil pump mounting surface is different on the auto to manual. that and the metal guard on the back side ot the timing belt that im wondering if the sensor needs it?? It cant be installed on the auto pump

 

that sucks but at least you can read the error codes man. I hope its something minor.

 

yea now i can read them Im kinda stumped. every thing tests fine as far as testing procedures go for the sensor and all its wiring. Im not sure what else to do. I dont want to start buying parts until i figure it out. that could be expensive. I guess maybe ill takea trip to the dealer and ask a few questions

 

Well i talked to a mechanic at honda and he said the code that was coing up was noise. I showed him the differences and there is a plate thats supposed t be installed on the manual motor oil pump that he thinks is a sheild, and is the reason (cause i have teh auto motor) that its throwing the code. He said to find a way to mount it in there (the part i have ordered and in my possesion) and see if that clears up the interference/noise

Ill be doing it tonight, wish me luck... (on the bright side im getting really good at this timing belt removal and install. i can probably do it in atleast a hr now)

 

^Good luck

 

Good luck Kris! If all goes well, I except a video man!

 

typo


except = expect

 

Been following your thread for a while. Best of luck to ya mate.

 

You "expect" a video huh????


I wont know till i actually do it. I need to JB Weld it in place so ill have to let it sit over night too.

 

Ok well i took every thing apart and started the work. I pulled the sensor out and it has a big scrape mark thru it. so i started to look and its where the teeth are on the gear. Well upon further inspection its not the new gear that did it, but the old. Its slightly larger and i never noticed tht it was rubbing on it. I hope i didnt screw it up. The grove is like 1/16 deep its not much but if its messing with the way it reads the sensor???


Here is the gaurd



here is teh gaurd JB welded in. It uses 1 bolt to hold it in so i think it will be fine. that jb weld is stron stuff.



Also with that guard in place the sensor sits up a little more so where it reads from isnt in the littel grove cut in it by the pulley. Hopefully that helps

 

nice. Hopefully this will be it!

 

Find out tommorow when i put every thng back together after every thing dries.

 

Well i put every thing back together and still doesnt work.

The code is a P0336.

I have a few options.

1. Buy the new oil pump and see if the mounting of the sensor is different.

2. Buy a new 440 dollar crank sensor to see if the one i have is damaged due to the old gear rubbing on it.

3. (per the last part of the test procedure for the code) Locate a known good ECU and try. <-- very tricky and expensive

Any one with some good suggestions???

 

Is there any info in the Helms for testing the CPS?

 

man kris you've came so far just to be stuck up on this little stupid thing. Wish I could be of more help.

Will you be able to return the sensor if that isnt the problem or are you stuck with it?

 

Kris, here is some information on various speed sensors used in automotive applications.

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h36.pdf


Since the CPS sensor you have basically consists of a coil and magnet mabe you could put an ohm meter on it and see what the resistance is. Might tell you if the coil is open or shorted. The ideal thing would be if you could connect an oscilloscope to the output and view the signal with the car running to see if you are getting nice clean pulses out of it.

Since the sensor is not optical mabe the grove worn in it wont hurt anything unless it has cut in far enough to screw up the coil or magnet inside.

As the document says, distance from the sensor to the teeth on the gear is critical. Do you have any adjustment or is it pretty much fixed?

 

I know you're the expert with timing belt assembly, but I too had a CKP sensor CEL before on my old Accord. Turns out the crank timing sprocket was off by one tooth in relation to the cam sprockets. The timing was off, my engine was in limp mode, and I couldn't drive faster than 3500 RPM/85 MPH.

Couldn't hurt to doublecheck the TDC marks on the sprockets. Then again, that sensor did get screwed up.

 

Sorta. Its real baisic, but what it does say is fine.

Stuck with it. Its an electrical component. there arent returns on them

Thanks for teh info.

Problem is with the sensor the 6 speed uses is a 3 wire (i forgot exactly what type it is) its different than most 2 wire style. Ill see if i can decypher the infor you gave a little more.
That brings up something. Im wondering. I had to replace the TDC sensors in the front head that read off the cam sproket. Just did a little research and there is indeed a different sprocket on the front cam. Im wondering if that is part of the cause??????

 

Kris, I was trying to see if I could help out by looking up some info on some of automotive programs. I didn't see anything about checking for certain voltages or electrical loads to see if the crank sensor is working properly. I did find this but you probably already have this info:

The CKP Sensor for the M/T has 3 wires:

1. Blue/Red (Sensor output (CKP1)
2. Brown/Yellow (G101)
3. Yellow/Black (Circuit D04)

I can look more into my program for certain info if need it.

 

Thanks.
The G101 is the ground location/point.
The others have a way of testing per the manual for voltage. They all tested fine. Im going to jump out on a limb and say it may be being caused by the cam sprocket not readign TDC properly.

 

Well i ordered the cam gear and back plate since they are different on the manual motor than the auto motor. Ill find out how they work and if they resolve the problem when ever they get here

 

You probably spent more on replacement parts and sensors than you did for the whole engine and tranny swap.

 

yep just about. tranny and engine combined came to 2300.00

had i known there were such big and expensive differences between teh 2 motors i would have bolught a manual motor and had it shipped to save me alot of headaches

 

So Kris, if someone was to get the front clip from the CL-S that should cover everything right? What would you think the price range for that would be? 2500-4000 depending on milage? I'm just guessing here, they might add on a ton for the fenders, windows, etc...

 

I wonder if anyone would by a CL-S with an automatic motor, that previously had a manual. Talk about minizing costs . But people would probably run from a car with a motor/tranny swap. On the other hand, the market for automatics is bigger....

 

This reminds me when i was doing an H22 swap into an Accord coupe, i couldnt get the damn thing to start. It took me an extra week to get it to start, i desperately checked all fuses, spent extra $$$ trying to figure it out and a week later figured it out "IT WAS A FUCKING ECU FUSE THAT WAS BLOWN ALONG THE FAR EDGE AND I COULDNT TELL"

I feel you pain kid....goodluck and keep the patience, im next on the list for this swap