In ur personal words steve...how does ur car feel at all throttle positions and rpms???Because right now u seem to be the only member w/ a happy successfull uni-chip (after a custom tune ) Now I want u to compare it to the way it would normally feel before u ever got the uni-chip. The reason I'm asking is because u have proven dyno gains right??Now are the gains just there and for the most-part un-felt unless ur at the track...or does ur good ole' butt dyno feel this mod. Im afraid that when all is said and done...this is gonna be one of those mods that will only show up at the track and not everyday WOT street runs

Another thing that I simply can't get out of my head is the part throttle situation that everyone's talking about. Now most members here know I'm an Acura tech and I know how Jack feels about everyone's "I feel this and that" situation, cause I deal w/ personal complaints all day long....HOWEVER, I know my car inside and out and I know exactly what to feel and when and how it feels and how it always felt. AND I am a big time victim of the part throttle situation. I was one of the first members to receive my uni-chip kit and when I thought that to myself...I thought I was crazy, but now that I see that almost everybody feels the same way, I know for a fact that it's not in my head, ya know what i mean. Anyways...not to be repeating everyone else but at half-throttle, my car pulls and it pulls HARD. And Jack can say it's in my head and it's impossible, but I still wont buy it. Anyways...give me ur personal thoughts on this. I should be getting my new uni-chip kit in tommorow and hopefully I'll be happy w/ the way everything turns out. But the thing I'm afraid of is this uni-chip said they only richened the orig mixture one point right. Our cars, or the original CL that was tested had an a/f mixture of 12.1 or something. Jack told me that they brought his to 13.1 or so. Now that's one point leaner. Now we ALL got that same map. Now if we were all leaned out one point that means my vehicle is running one point lean aswell right. The new chip I'm gonna be getting will be one point richer which theoretically will be the same exact point it was before the chip. Like ur car was running an a/f mixture of 13's and after the chip it was 14's. Then u got a custom tune which brought it back to 13's which is where we want it.....so where is the power being made??? And to boot...Jack said timing was barely touched. Im just confused that the new chip I'm gonna be getting will bring my car back to basically a stock ecu

Another thing is that Jack said he has 6 dyno results...3 where too lean and three were perfect. Which of those 6 has had their trans replaced and is running the updated ecu that gets replaced w/ the trans. Maybe that could be a problem.

And finally steve...with all these dyno graphs posted on every page i'm getting confused on what and who to believe. Can u just tell me what the results of urs where...stock (before uni-chip) and after (custom tune) How much power/torque did u actually gain and at what rpm's, just give me a verbal errr...typed version of ur dyno results. Thanks again mang

 

I hate to add my to the confusion, but here goes anyway.

I drove my car today for the 2nd time since I put the chip in. The first time I drove it, the butt-dyno told me nothing good or bad. Today was a little different. The butt-dyno liked it. It almost seemed like there was a second V-TEC that kicked in. Not sure what rpm, but I will watch it next time. I had a good run from 30 to 110 and it pulled hard. I also did a good 80 to 110. But, most importantly, I had no cels or crazy rpms at idle.

Maybe I should go get a dyno. I have never done one before. The closest shop is an hour away. Someone call UniChip and see if they will pay for it. I'm taking donations.

 

Unichip definetly will not pay for your dyno. However, if you dyno and find out that your ratio is not where it should be, jack will fix it based on your graph for free.

 

Ant,

Your post was too long and it's too late for me to quote but the tranny issue on our cars doesn't seem to affect anything at all. Already tried that theory.. Our cars just run oddly different from car to car. I know he says he has 3 good and 3 bad dynos but at the same token I know you have CEL issues and I Defintley do also.. So that's basically 5 bad and 3 good IMO.. I'm just weighing the option between a flash and a custom tune even though the shop is 3+ hours away.. But I am leaning more toward the custom tune..

I know if I do get a flash I will want to get a dyno to see the gains so rather then spend alot of money on dynos I figure to get a custom tune.. But I'm still not sure since I have CELs and sputtering at idle with the chip - Bad Combo lol...

 

 

i should be getting my revised map early next week, i will keep you guys posted

 

this is off the power subject, but i just wanted to tell you guys i'm getting better gas mileage w/ the chip.

i noticed it after the first tank i ran through the car but i wanted to wait to say this until i went a 1000 miles or so.

i would say i'm getting 30-40 miles more per tank. i just got back from a trip over the mountain last weekend, from Portland to Bend, OR. and back. usually on a trip like this i can get 330-350 miles out of a tank. i'm usually going 70+ on average w/ some spurts over 100 (passing etc.), with lots of gear, speed and elevation changes.

right now i'm at 375 miles and my gas light isn't on, which means i will get past 400 miles on this tank. i haven't been taking it easy at all, i've done a bunch of wot acceleration (including spraying n2o a couple times). the mileage is impressive.

like i said, i've noticed it for a while but i wanted to wait to confirm before i said anything. seems like if this milage gain is normal it wouldn't take long for the chip to pay for itself, and the power gains are the icing on the cake.

 

great news matt, cant wait to get my new map in.....

 

Are you going to dyno again? If so are you going to try a Dynojet this time?

 

Ant,

I thought the theory behind the 1/2 throttle versus WOT issue is because you're leaner, the engine starts to ping/knock at WOT so the ECU retards timing like crazy and makes the car significantly slower at WOT... Does that make sense ? I'm not a technical guy at all when it comes to cars, so I just assumed this theory was correct.

 

Ant,

I definitely feel more power from the UniChip. It's hard to notice in 1st or 2nd gear because our cars pull through these gears pretty quickly to begin with. Although, if I go WOT in 3rd gear while in SS mode so the car doesn't downshift, I notice a great improvement in acceleration. Pre-UniChip if I was going 50 mph and wanted to go around someone on the highway I'd drop it into 2nd, go WOT, and pass them. Now, post-UniChip, I just go WOT in 3rd and I have adequate power. It's not like I'm thrown into the back of my seat and the car rages up to VTEC; the gearing is too tall for that, but there is a noticeable improvement... 4th gear too.


Also, in stock trim my A/F was pretty level at 12.4, then at 5200 RPM (aka near VTEC) the A/F starts to drop and bottoms out at 11.8 at 6000 rpm. Then it begins to rise and at 7000 rpm i'm back to 12.4

With the UniChip original program I was between 13.6 as my low, at 4200 rpm, from there it started to rise all the way to redline, no dip in VTEC. At 7000 rpm I was at 14.8

After the tune the new program puts me pretty level at 13.2, at VTEC (5200 rpm) the A/F increases to 13.4 then dips down to 13.0 at 6000 rpm, then rises back to 13.4 at 7000 rpm.

So you can see, before I had an increase over 2 points in some spots. Actually if you just look at 7000 rpm I went from 12.4 to 14.8 on the original chip. Now I go from 12.4 to 13.6. Big difference.

The way they program the chip is no by just telling the chip "add 1 point to A/F." Adjustments can be made to the fuel delivery every 300 rpm I believe, might be as low as 250, or as high as 500, but I believe it is 300. So they change the percent of fuel that is added to the mixture (Air/Fuel). I believe on my car approximately 15% was added after 5200 rpm. We really tired to tweak it to get rid of the dip at 6000 rpm but nothing we could do would make that go away; it's just in our car's nature to dip like that.

As far as half throttle response, . It seems like it might be pulling a little harder than before but I really don't know.

The car is definitely faster. I've been to the track and despite less traction and weather that was 17 degrees hotter I ran almost a full MPH faster. We'll see what happens in October when its about 50 degrees at the track.

Matt,

I've also noticed better gas mileage. This makes perfect sense though considering we are running more lean than we were without the chip... burning less fuel.

 

I'm getting great gas milage also. I do a lot of city driving, and stop and go rush hour traffic. Pre-Unichip, I used to struggle to hit the 280 mile per tank, but now I can hit that mark easy, without the gas light even coming on.

 

Got my new chip in today....FUCK!!!!!!!!!!! The new P+P harness is fucked up, as soon as I started it the idle dropped to 400rpm and threw a cel for map/baro sensor high imput, Took out the new chip and instal;led the orig chip again ans the same thing happened. Now I have two bad harnesses and one chip that i felt no gains from at WOT. so being pissed off and not wanting to re-install the orig harness....I just returned everything back to stock. NOW LET ME SAY THIS....THE RIDE HOME W/ THE STOCK ECU RUNNING EVERYTHING....FELT LIKE A NEW MOD!!!!!!!!!!ALL THE POWER WAS BACK AND I RELIZED HOW MUCH SLOWER MY CAR PULLED W/ THE CHIP IN. I am going back and forth w/ Jack right now and will update u guys on the situation asap.


Thanks again Steve and others for taking ur time to reply

 

damn ant, how was your pnp messed up???

 

well I tried the new P+P harness w/ the new chip and the car would barely idle w/ check engine light turning on as soon as i started it. So i figured it must have been the new chip so I plugged the orig chip back in and the same thing...barely idle. I spoke w/ Tony and he told me to swap the pins on the P+P harness for the Map sensor input/output. he says the pins must have been swapped internally inside the P+P harness so I have to change that by swapping the pins on the harness itself. Anyways....I'm really getting pissed now at this whole situation...so far my credit card has been charged $1200 for the two kits and NOTHING WORKS!!!!!! I was thinking of returning the whole thing and looking elsewhere for engine management but I might give them one more try. Still undecided. Plus I was looking into different engine management/fuel systems either piggyback or standalone systems. Basically all we have available is the e-manage and the uni-chip. And the V-AFC too but everything is is ike $2000 Anyone have any other suggestions???

 

I just want a resolution fast. I think that it is crappy that we have to dyno our cars just to see if we have reults and to make sure that the A/F ratio is where it needs to be. This was not mentioned before we purchased them.

 

Ant,

Are you close to a UniChip authorized dealer? I'm in the same boat as you but instead of returning the chip I've been waiting to see what UniChip has to say.. So instead of dynoing my car a couple times I may just have a authorized dealer do it and get the most out of it and be happy.. If you think about it, if you dyno your car then have it programmed you're going to want to dyno it again to see what your gains are.. So you might as well just have a custom tune done IMO..

 

hey guys, by any chance, is it possible to return our chips for a refund??? i havent even taken mine out of the box yet, because i've been reading about all of your problems

 

call Jack Randy... he is more than helpful.

 

I think it was posted earlier in the thread that there are no refunds. I haven't had any problems with the chip, but I can honestly say I feel absolutely nothing. I felt more gains with the UR pullies when i had them installed. I'm not expecting a lot. I just thought I would feel something. I don't think I live anywhere near a licensed unichip tuner either, and I don't feel like paying to have my car dynoed just to see if the chip is working. Luckily I haven't had any problems from the chip like some others did.

 

Just curious, are the people having issues running on map A or B? I plan on getting mine dyno'd and have been running on A since the beginning. I think I'm feeling some gains but don't have the data yet to prove it. Would running map B be better or is that strictly for forced induction systems; ie. turbo's, SC??

Thanks

 

Uh .. the unichip is not for a turbo'd or supercharged car PERIOD. it will not work. Map B is simply a more aggressive timing map meant to be used on race gas (100+ octane) with a naturally aspirated motor. It may or may not produce gains. No one really has any proof of it.

 

Oh... because according to the supplied instructions, MAP B is for turbo's and SC... I guess those were just generic instructions.... Anyone know what kind of damage, if any, would come from running MAP B and 93 octane? (Sorry if that was already discussed)

Thanks

-Rich

 

No damage would occur, your ECU would see the advanced timing and if it sensed detonation\pinging, it would retard your timing a great deal until it went away .. so you would end up losing power.

 

Use Map A only.

 

I was wondering about this myself. I don't think anyone has proof that this product does what it was supposed to do out of the box. I don't want to spend $100 on a dyno, just to see if teh $600 did anything.


Has anyone got a dyno on there own and saw results. Not you mrsteve. You had to get a custum tune.

 

Well I swapped the wires today and it started fine. so thats a relief however I had to cut the wires and re-solder them together because my pin-extrator set wouldn't work for the uni-chip connector. Anyways...it just looks a little less profesional but no biggie. As for the new chip which Jack slightly richened....I'm somewhat more happy now. No cel's or misfires as of yet so thats a plus. AND it seems to pull harder in WOT and higher rpm, however the hard pulling that I was getting w/ the old chip at half throttle and mid rpm is slightly gone. So I lose some and gain some. As for the closest uni-chip dyno...2 hour drive away in connecticut!!!!!I'm not looking foward to that in the future. Anyways...I'm just gonna wait for a couple more days and see how this new chip reacts until I contact Jack again. Prolly what would make me the happiest would be to refund me the hundred dollars and for me to get my own custom tune. I really can't see any way around it....AND I certainly don't want anymore full kits coming to my house w/ another $600 charged to my cc. I will keep u guys updated!!

 

Glad to hear things are looking better Ant.

 

Has anyone had any problems with stalling out on startup? ... Since getting the Unichip, I had 2 hard starts and 1 complete stall in the first few days after installing the chip. Jack suggested it was the ECU re-learning. Since then, I've had 2 full stalls during startup where I needed to stop cranking, turn the key to off and try again. Jack said the chip is supposed to be completely turned off during this time and that it shouldn't effect the car, but I've never had the car stall on me during startup before this. Anyone have any ideas? Maybe I should just reset the ECU again???

 

do you guys think when i go for my dyno & get my chip precision tuned on monday they will give me the results so i can post for you guys? I'm going to ask jack if before they do anything i could get a before & after dyno & of coarse one with no chip at all. Jack said they would only have my car for two or three hours. Hopefully they'll let me observe the whole process from begining to end. I want to get some answers for us. I wish i had someone really knowledgeable with me like Mr. steve, matt. I want to make sure no wool was being pulled over my eyes. Also i am bringing my digital camera & see if they will allow me to takes some pics. If so i will post. I really hope we can get this damn mess straightened out. See ya

 

Did you run the idle learn procedure??

 

IS ANYONE NOT CONTENT -performance wise- with your chip?

 

lol dude - are you serious? you obviously havent read the thread

 

You must be psykik broda...im not the kind of person that wants to read 17 pages with 25messages each...(425messages+this page)

So, are you duds happy with the gains for the $700 you gave?

 

I'm not tryin to be a dick dude but this has already been discussed multiple times in this thread alone by MANY members and I dont think they're all about to repeat everything they've said .. its alot more complicated than just saying "no I'm not happy" or "yes I'm happy" .. each member had his own experiences etc ...

and if you think this thread is bad .. read the original thread. I think it ended at 53 pages.

If you want to know, your gonna have to read........

 

No, I didn't run through it ... Do you have to do it everytime you reset the ECU? I thought that was just the quick way to get the idle to run smooth again but that if you let the car run for a few days driving that it would eventually "fix" itself. I was going to try resetting the ECU again anyways to see if it helped with the stalling ... Maybe I'll run through the idle learn procedure to see if that fixes it.

 

It does help....

 

What exactly is the idle learn procedure?

 

I copied this right off an older post:


"The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECU/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions."

(Following is a lengthy list which includes resetting the ECU/PCM and disconnecting the battery, among other things).

"1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear window defogger, lights, etc.) are off.

2. Start the engine and hold it at 3,000 RPM with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 degrees F (90 degrees C).

3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.

NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes."

 

i see...you pretty much told me what i wanted to know.