Started on some in home porting
yup, only thing I needed was engine harness, ecu and gauge cluster. No cel's, but the vsa light will be on. According to fsttyms1 it requires a lot more than just the tb and ecu to make it work. I'm fine without it, just pull the bulb in the cluster out
also the IMRC will not work because it requires a separate module that you can find and try and make work, or get an rpm switch and try that. I left mine open like phee did and I have no complaints
also the IMRC will not work because it requires a separate module that you can find and try and make work, or get an rpm switch and try that. I left mine open like phee did and I have no complaints
Last edited by richardparker; Jul 8, 2010 at 10:45 PM.
seriously?
^ Not sure if it was a four or six.
I hope I'm not jumping the gun here but I just located a complete type s motor local for $275.
Un sure of the milage but $275 how could I really go wrong,as long as the block is still good.
My clp motor is still fine,no problems.
If I can find a way to get it to my house it will be getting disasemble and built.
Does anyone know if I need a type s ecu or harness to run with no cel?
I hope I'm not jumping the gun here but I just located a complete type s motor local for $275.
Un sure of the milage but $275 how could I really go wrong,as long as the block is still good.
My clp motor is still fine,no problems.
If I can find a way to get it to my house it will be getting disasemble and built.
Does anyone know if I need a type s ecu or harness to run with no cel?
Got the car back today.
And it looks great.
New bumper cover and now trunk is totally shaved.
I love having the mixxing ticket.
I have kept the mixxing ticket for about 2yrs now.
And now I can have the same color everytime.
pic's not the greatest,it was raining while I took them.
And it looks great.
New bumper cover and now trunk is totally shaved.
I love having the mixxing ticket.
I have kept the mixxing ticket for about 2yrs now.
And now I can have the same color everytime.
pic's not the greatest,it was raining while I took them.
Here we go again.
Heads striped ,cleaned once and waiting till everything is fully dry then you know what time it is.
This is the start of my type-s engine build.
Heads striped ,cleaned once and waiting till everything is fully dry then you know what time it is.
This is the start of my type-s engine build.
Last edited by richardparker; Oct 13, 2010 at 08:19 PM.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 5
From: Merritt Island FL
I just bought a whole a2 motor that was in great shape and plan on blowing it out.
This is just the start of that motor.
But,I could possibly be using the clp manifold I already have done.
Got the motor a couple of days ago and the only thing I have not disasembled and boxed was the lower rotating assembly and oil pan.
This is just the start of that motor.
But,I could possibly be using the clp manifold I already have done.
Got the motor a couple of days ago and the only thing I have not disasembled and boxed was the lower rotating assembly and oil pan.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 5
From: Merritt Island FL
I just bought a whole a2 motor that was in great shape and plan on blowing it out.
This is just the start of that motor.
But,I could possibly be using the clp manifold I already have done.
Got the motor a couple of days ago and the only thing I have not disasembled and boxed was the lower rotating assembly and oil pan.
This is just the start of that motor.
But,I could possibly be using the clp manifold I already have done.
Got the motor a couple of days ago and the only thing I have not disasembled and boxed was the lower rotating assembly and oil pan.
I'll get you a before in a few. And also after when that time comes.
These things are on the kitchen counter and the kitchen table but,it's to late do start on them.
These things are on the kitchen counter and the kitchen table but,it's to late do start on them.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 5
From: Merritt Island FL
What about the Comp ratio?
Here's the pic you wanted to see, and I decided this is where I'm going to start.
I will only polish the combustion chamber. I don't want to loose any compression,just don't know how much I'm looking for yet.
I still want to run nitrous too.
I will only polish the combustion chamber. I don't want to loose any compression,just don't know how much I'm looking for yet.
I still want to run nitrous too.
Last edited by phee; Oct 14, 2010 at 09:33 AM.
Went over 2 of the combutions holes once in this pic.
Now I can see where the combustion camber flaws are.
I'm going to go back,blend a little better with the flaws and re-polish.
Then that area will be done for now.
Now I can see where the combustion camber flaws are.
I'm going to go back,blend a little better with the flaws and re-polish.
Then that area will be done for now.
when I'm done I will let you know if it's point less.
I'm been doing some homework for a while now.
Me polishing the combustion cambers and removing flaws will remove hot spots that can cause detonation and also reflects heat better so the charge will more powerful.
Just so you know.
I will explain everything I'm doing while I'm doing it.
O yea, all the cc's on that head completed.
I'm been doing some homework for a while now.
Me polishing the combustion cambers and removing flaws will remove hot spots that can cause detonation and also reflects heat better so the charge will more powerful.
Just so you know.
I will explain everything I'm doing while I'm doing it.
O yea, all the cc's on that head completed.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 5
From: Merritt Island FL
when I'm done I will let you know if it's point less.
I'm been doing some homework for a while now.
Me polishing the combustion cambers and removing flaws will remove hot spots that can cause detonation and also reflects heat better so the charge will more powerful.
Just so you know.
I will explain everything I'm doing while I'm doing it.
O yea, all the cc's on that head completed.
I'm been doing some homework for a while now.
Me polishing the combustion cambers and removing flaws will remove hot spots that can cause detonation and also reflects heat better so the charge will more powerful.
Just so you know.
I will explain everything I'm doing while I'm doing it.
O yea, all the cc's on that head completed.
The reason I was asking about the comp ratio was because I was going to recomend to you look for anything that could cause the hot spot. Sharp angles, spurs, edges... Well you know, stuff like that.
Also have you thought about (if you raise the compression) putting in a better radiator and fans, with maybe a 160 degree thermostat, a cooler spark plug, maybe also some thermo gaskets (wich it looks like you already have)? Pretty much anything to help cool that incoming air to thwart off pre detonation.
Intake side of the first head almost done porting.
I'm not going to be polishing that side at all.
Maybe 150grit,or just enough to smooth in the port work but,thats it.
Exhaust side will only see polishing and header match.
I don't want to mess around with that side since I'm not going with bigger valves yet.
I'm not going to be polishing that side at all.
Maybe 150grit,or just enough to smooth in the port work but,thats it.
Exhaust side will only see polishing and header match.
I don't want to mess around with that side since I'm not going with bigger valves yet.
Senior Moderator
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,588
Likes: 48
From: Port Richey, FL
TheGreatGathby yea man good point... basically you're saying smoother doesn't mean better.
Like a golf ball
All those little indents are there to create little pockets of turbulent air that basically spin around and around in each indentation. So... each indent has it's own bit of air moving in circles in it, this basically allows the rest of the air (the air pushing around the gold ball) to pass by the gold ball without touching the actual surface (because the air is passing over OTHER air). Creating less drag.. and therefore a further shot.
So technically smoother is not NECESSARILY better.
Daily Planet had a segment on this vinyl they stuck on a Porsche. the vinyl mimicked the physics of a golf ball whereby it too had these circular indentations which in turn.. created less drag due to the gold ball explanation.
They timed multiple runs with the car normal and with the vinyl applied and resulted in a 2-2.5 sec DECREASE in lap time.
Keep in mind the vinyl still weighed i'm sure like 10 pounds at least, and still it made the car faster.
I just thought I'd share that, because that shattered my perception of smoother = faster.
So maybe there is an exact science to maximizing the efficiency of the internals of a motor's hydraulics ?
So i'd have to say porting Yay.. polishing nay
Like a golf ball
All those little indents are there to create little pockets of turbulent air that basically spin around and around in each indentation. So... each indent has it's own bit of air moving in circles in it, this basically allows the rest of the air (the air pushing around the gold ball) to pass by the gold ball without touching the actual surface (because the air is passing over OTHER air). Creating less drag.. and therefore a further shot.
So technically smoother is not NECESSARILY better.
Daily Planet had a segment on this vinyl they stuck on a Porsche. the vinyl mimicked the physics of a golf ball whereby it too had these circular indentations which in turn.. created less drag due to the gold ball explanation.
They timed multiple runs with the car normal and with the vinyl applied and resulted in a 2-2.5 sec DECREASE in lap time.
Keep in mind the vinyl still weighed i'm sure like 10 pounds at least, and still it made the car faster.
I just thought I'd share that, because that shattered my perception of smoother = faster.
So maybe there is an exact science to maximizing the efficiency of the internals of a motor's hydraulics ?
So i'd have to say porting Yay.. polishing nay
when I'm done I will let you know if it's point less.
I'm been doing some homework for a while now.
Me polishing the combustion cambers and removing flaws will remove hot spots that can cause detonation and also reflects heat better so the charge will more powerful.
Just so you know.
I will explain everything I'm doing while I'm doing it.
O yea, all the cc's on that head completed.
I'm been doing some homework for a while now.
Me polishing the combustion cambers and removing flaws will remove hot spots that can cause detonation and also reflects heat better so the charge will more powerful.
Just so you know.
I will explain everything I'm doing while I'm doing it.
O yea, all the cc's on that head completed.
im not saying what youre doing is bad, but its a double edged sword. done right, it can be rewarding... done wrong, it could prove to be more detrimental to engine performance.
I Drive Like A Dick 8≈
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 79
From: Calgary, Alberta
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nufXpDBELdQ
Like they say though, when done right.
Head is basically done.
My camera is not here right now so I'll put up some pics later tonight.
I also have to give the 2nd heads porting a break for now.
I just picked up another halo job,so thats going to have to come first.
Trying to dig up money for some valve train goodies.
Pics for that will be in my ccfl thread soon.Halo's are for a 2nd gen cl too.
My camera is not here right now so I'll put up some pics later tonight.
I also have to give the 2nd heads porting a break for now.
I just picked up another halo job,so thats going to have to come first.
Trying to dig up money for some valve train goodies.
Pics for that will be in my ccfl thread soon.Halo's are for a 2nd gen cl too.
here the intake side done to 150
Exhaust done to 320
combustion chamber
I think I'm just about done with this one.
Clean the gasket area's and some paint and that's it.
Exhaust done to 320
combustion chamber
I think I'm just about done with this one.
Clean the gasket area's and some paint and that's it.
