quality costs money though (if you want quality easiest place is the dealer , or at least a honda dealer)

and what types of valves are you talking, over sized ones, or maybe sodium filled ones

 

Nopi.com has some components; however, prices like similar to dealer:
http://nopi.com/dsp_parts.php?vsubpcdesc=Engine Compartment | Bearings-Main, Stock Repl

 

What ever the best one's would be so I don't end up with burnt valves.
I don't know SS or titainium ,something light weight,maybe coated.
Are there bigger valves for our heads ?
It don't look like there's much extra room for bigger valve with out reshaping the combustion chamber.
Also are their any valve seals that are better than stock.
I need to start adding up some figures so I know what I'm looking at and so I can get the heads built.

Other head might be done this week.
I'm not doing it in the kitchen again though I'll tell you that.
Everything is the kitchen was covered with aluminum. It took a half of a day just to clean everything.
Moped the floor 6 times too till it was not getting on my socks.

 

what about KMS valve springs

 

kms and supertech make the valve springs/retainers but I havn't seen any aftermarket valves yet.

 

burnt valves, should not be an issue with the intake one, as far as the exhaust goes sodinum filled ones are geneally considered the best, but can kinda be pricey though (they come in handy especially on higher powered forced inducted cars, like a subaru sti, but a big thing is making sure the exhaust valve sits on the seats long enough to transfer some of the heat away

as far as bigger, none that i know of, and being easy to put in there, as said not really without a reworking of the chamber itself

and seals that are better then stock, personally i would say it is kinda hard to beat alot of stock honda parts

 

Titanium valves are nice, but the disadvantage of using them is that they're harder than steel. So when something goes wrong, instead of bending, they break. Possibly causing much more damage to the cylinders.

I'd keep the stock valve seals. They work fine when used in modded engines.

 

I forgot to put some finished pics of the rear head.



front head,combustion chambers cleaned up.

 

Intake side of 2nd head mostly done.

 

Wow what the fuck is this?? There is a for sale section, you know.

Also, its funny that you want $499 for them on CraigsList but you want $50 more from us, not to mention those things belong on a Chrysler 300, not an Acura.

PS - I just flagged your CL ad as a scam.

 

GK83 thats not cool!

 

lol

but yeah not exactly the section to be posting it in


ps: reported also

 

WOW!.... I've seen some thread jack's in my day, but this one takes the cake...

Looking very nice Richard, I can't tell exactly from your chamber picture, but it looks like you still have the ridge mark between the casting and the seat
machining in the throat.




If you have any carbide tools, I would smooth that; the valve seat are in the most important with port work. Also, not sure it's the case on yours, but if you look at where the seat blends into the chamber, there are a few that really need to be smoothed out.

You might consider trying to put a smooth radius between the chamber and the seat on every port; that's what I've seen on every high-end, ported head I have ever examined closely.

 

Is that a picture of mine?
I have smoothed the whole chamber now.
Both heads are done completely.
I will go over the 2nd one tomorrow to get anything I missed and then that one will be painted.

 

Give the dude a break bro. He only has 4 posts on this website, it's not like he purposely knows he's not supposed to post here.

All you have to do is give him a link to the blackmarket section, not call him out and diss his product

 

 

No, it's mine. I was just trying to illustrate the ridge in the intake port on the left.

Can you take a couple close up pictures of the intake ports from the exhaust side; one straight in, maybe another for a 45* angle?

 

Maybe if he hadn't reposted three times it wouldn't be so bad.
sorry RP back on topic.

 

I do have the inside blended in the best I could.
maybe not perfect but pretty good.
I did not want to slip and score the seat.
The raised sections of the chamber I blended them in to.

What do you think about polishing valves faces ?


I will ask to have the ads removed.
It is a little more than taken a left with the topic .

 

but then again it is a type of wheel that Parker would buy after all

 

IDon'tKnow,
After taking a look at mine and they look pretty could I can still feel ridges all the way around.
Looks like I will mess with them another day.
Glad I'm not in a rush.
I will put up some more pics tommorow

 

always very nice when you are not being rushed to finish it

 

I wouldn't trouble with polishing the valve faces.

I would however go ahead and spend a few hundred $$$ to get a good five angle valve job and have a back-cut put on the valves.

 

I did check into back cutting the valves.
What do you think, or know, what degree cut will work the best for our engine ?
30,33 degree ?

I started blending in those inner exhaust tube lips in.
ran out of corse buffs.so those are going to wait.
I found it easyier to blend those lips with a worn corse dremel buff.
because when it's worn pretty good it's about a 1/8" wide and you can work it with good pricision.
Any way I'm going to get the runners matched up next.

For referance.
The runner in the rear are from a clp
The runner in the front is a type s

No wonder when I did the clp one's before I had to remove so much material to match the mdx spacer and the clp manifold.
The type s one's will be so easy to gasket match. I will only have to remove between 1/32 and 1/16 around the holes.
I might try to straighten the tubes some on the inside thou.

 

As Nersh said, if you post something FS in someones build thread without permission multiple times in succession, prepare to be flamed.

The progress is looking good RP. When do you plan on doing the block (or are you)? Do you have a timeframe for installing the motor?

 

Thanks,
I will get to the block after all the pnp work is done to the TB neck.
I have been reading and reading and reading.
And I still don't know what I want to do.
I want the highest compression possible on premium gas.
Also was looking into over size pistons 90mm.
I was looking for info on rod
lenth
wrist pin size
width
and big end measurements.

and I was looking for
piston measurements too.
But I could not find anything.

No time frame ,
Money is the only road block.

 

i heard at some point that k-series pistons are very close to being a fitment, but only speculation though

 

I come close to that asumption too but,not sure.
k20 have a 22mm wrist pin but that all I know about them,and thay are widely availabe in all size combinations.
Whats our wrist pin size?

 

Any ideal what that will be on a j32a2? Curious as to how high you might be able to go. I can't imagine anything over 11 to 1 would be safe at all on pump premium. Just speculation though. Stock is what 10.5 to 1?

 

I'll measure the wrist pins when I get home. There are guys out there running 15:1 compression on pump gas with forged internals with no problems. It's not cut and dry though, there are many factors that play a role in what makes a safe cR.

I personally plan on running 12.5:1, and I might bump to 13.2:1 down the road.

 

I wouldn't go higher then 11:1 on pump gas. That leaves some margin for error if you run shitty gas. It does have alot to do with the tune though. You could also run E85 but that is hard to find in most areas and you need to upgrade the entire fuel system to do it. If I go boosted in the Civic thats what Id like to run.

 

Really? In a j32a2? On pump gas?

Forged internals has nothing to do with keeping the fuel from pre detonating, so thats a mute point.

Do you have an article or some other kind of source for these 15:1 guys on pump gas? Otherwise I'd have to call

 

I know B series guys running pump gas in the 13.5:1 range. But they have much better tuning solutions available.

 

The wrist pins are in fact 22mm. Now the question is, how tall are the pistons as measured from the center of the wrist pin?

OK, where do I start?

Yes, really, that's what I'm going to do. On pump gas.

Forged internals indeed has nothing to do with detonation. However, the point is that anyone trying to tune a very high compression engine is more than likely going to have some occurrence of detonation during tuning. Nobody runs that high of a compression ratio on cast internals because they would be destroyed the first time you put the car on a dyno and tried to tune it.

I never said it was a J series guy running 15:1. There are a few guys out there running compression ratios that high. I've personally seen 12.8:1 on cast internals; B20/Vtec, RS machine.

Static compression ratios are also not necessarily relevant to the actual compression ratios because of valve overlap and that could be the case with some guys running "15:1" on pump gas. Unfortunately, because the J's are SOHC, the valve overlap it predetermined by the cam. Also there are factors that have to be taken into account; for example, chamber shape and quench area.

If it's safe for Honda to send the J series out of the factory with a 11.2:1 compression ratio, a pentroof chamber, factory electronics, narrow-band O2 sensors, and heat risers on the pistons & chambers; it's probably safe for a fully worked, ceramic coated chamber and dome, dedicated wideband, and full standalone motor to see 12.5:1. At least we'll find out soon enough.

 

Thats why I asked.

I did not think about the valve overlap playing a part in that. Good point!

 

let alone with some meth/water injection added into the works also

 

If it's tuned right, a 12:1 c/r can safely be driven on the street with 93 octane. I do it in my car. If your tuning options are limited you'll have to retard the timing. At that point it'd be better to go with lower compression.

EDIT: I think you might be under cammed with 12:1 unless you had a custom grind.

 

I agree in the cams.... Wonder how much it would run to get a small batch done.

You're running 12:1 on a J? If so, what is done with your heads and chamber?

 

No, I'd like to build a J though. It's a B18C. The mod list in my 'garage' profile.

The guys on j32a.com are saying good things about the AEM system. It sounds like the only thing that's holding back the J series is the cams.

 

find out,I would like some, just nothing super crazy.

I would like to see 11-11.5:1 for mine.
Just need some knowledge from the right guy.
And with the speculation of the RL pistons lately.
I don't even want to hear that as a option for 11:1.
Last thing I want to do is buy simular pistons for no reason or I have someone build for me and they think they are simular too,and they use my old pistons anyway,and they try to keep the new for their own project or sell them for free dough.
All people that work on cars are not honest.
going to grind up the fuel injector bases now.