Got my mounts today.
Headers off getting rewelded around the flanges.
Good thing one pipe was cracked in the rear.

 

Headers a little beefed up.
Glad I went to the shop I did. he had about 6 cars where he was build full tube chassis car,build cages,had totally custom trucks sitting on the floor ,full custom bikes and he said he can do anything I want.
I ask him about possibly chopping the neck off my manifold and adapting a large TB. And he told me If I have atleast a mounting plate for the throttle body he would do the rest for like 40-60 dollars.
Looks like I will be seeing that guy again soon.



After receiving my new mounts it's very clear every one of my mounts are broken. maybe my mysterious noise in the front will be gone now,since every dam piece will be replaced now.

 

u think it's worth pulling off the headers to modify the inlets on all 6 ports?

would that yield anything noticeable?

 

This is the first restriction of getting exhaust gasses out of the head. The head will flow easyier so you will make a little more power.
You might not notice to much just driving around normal.
But higher rpm's you should be able to feel a differance of the less restricting flange.

You would probally only see single digit hp gains but, those are more single digit gains than the next guy .
Without spend crazy dough on full custom headers.

I would definitly do it if you were looking for extra power and want to keep as much money in your pocket as possible.

I should've put larger valves in and bumped the compression up I just wanted to get this going.
I guess it will leave me options to search out more power down the road.

 

We'll see when mine go on this spring. I had a full race port done and bumped compression. Im not really sure of anyone has any race head/race cam numbers out there.

 

sitting in loose but ,sitting in.
Ran out of light.
tomorrow is another day.

 

Getting close.
Only thing left is manifold,TB, battery, axles to the wheels.
Forgot I needed to polish one plenum. Couldn't put one crappy one on so it will be a late night tonight.

 

did you polish the intake yourself ? what did you use ? i think i will pay someone to do it lol

 

Ya I did the polishing on the one plenum and the cover by hand with only sand paper and polishing compound. It might need only a hand polishing again because it's dusty from sitting for months.
The one on the table I am banging out the first go around with a fine disc on my drill then I will go to sand paper and polish.
I don't want to do it but,I have to.

 

Fire up coming tomorrow

 

Let's see some vids Pls

 

You don't want to see that.

Rear main is leaking

Or if I'm lucky the oil pan is leaking behind peak hole for the drive plate bolts. I dont even know if the pan gasket is under there just trying to think of something positive,Thinking of smashing the car with a bat right now.
I haven't got under the car again, just seen it leaking and I am crazy pissed off.
I haven't been able to keep it running yet either,thinking It might be fuel related.
Is there a bleeder for our fuel somewhere ?

The most I did get was like 3 lumps of the cam and I can say it sounds crazy nasty. similar to a v8 with a cam.

 

Fuel Pressure Relieving, from the Helms:

Before disconnecting fuel pipes or hoses, release pressure from the system by loosening the fuel pulsation damper on top of the fuel rail.
1) Write down anti-theft radio code.
2) Disconnect the neg. battery cable.
3) Remove the fuel fill cap.
4) Use a wrench on the fuel pulsation damper.
5) Place a rag over the fuel pulsation damper.
6) Slowly loosen the fuel pulsation damper one complete turn.
Note: Replace all washers whenever the fuel pulsation damper is loosened or removed.

 

My offer still stands....ive owned a cammed J series. Your going to need tons of fuel to start it....On the order of 20 percent more at idle

 

Talk to me.
I don't do the whole phone call thing but,I'm all ears.
I will go mess with it tomorrow to get it to fire then it will come back out to fix the rear seal or what ever the problem is.
I want this thing to run It sounds so sick.

 

i wish i had this much time as you to start to rebuild the spare engine that i just got...

 

It does not take that long if you have steady hours to put in and some money.
I only get about a hour a day so that's why it takes me so long and I doing my stuff with right on the sidewalk.

 

Can't get this to idle for nothing.
I need someone who really know's their stuff.
Cam is just to much.

I need to know "exactly" what to buy to get this thing to start and run.

 

Its most likely the ECU I doubt that CLP unit can handle a Type-S engine. I would look into the AEM Series 2 EMS stand alone. It was designed to work with J swaps using the auto harness. Not sure if it will still work with an auto trans though . . .

 

I should probally start there with the type s ecu.

 

The clp ecu should be able to run your new motor at least idle it. Do you have any codes? When you start the motor can you hit the gas to keep it running. Are you using your same fuel rails , regulator,injectors off the clp motor? Does it try to idle then the rpm just get too low and dies?

 

If I touch the gas it dies.

 

I heard that possiblity to slightly open the TB blade and redo the tps might help it on idle or drill a couple of tiny holes right above the TB plate on the rear side just enough to let some air pass might help with the starting.
I don't know,I have ears open to all options.
I would like it to run soon or the cams might find themselfs a new home.

 

Can you hear fuel pump kicking on when you turn the ignition?

 

This is why you have a iacv to let some air through. Are you useing the same iacv that was on your old motor? To be sure its working

 

Don't know what cam you bOught but I know some cams need to be degreed when installed to prevent valves from touching. This will require tuning to idle or you will get a surging idle or a car that will not stay on. Check your compression. Then check your fuel pressure.

 

I can't degree in the cam with no adjustable cam gears. I will check compression and fuel tomorrow,I think I might have weak spark.
I'm going to buy a full size battery tomorrow,I think the little brailie is in need of a serious charge or is on it's way out.
What is the cls fuel pressure supposed to be ?



I'm pretty sure I could hear it.
I'll check again in the am.

 

If my camshaft sensor shims I put on are a little to far away from the cam gear would that give me weak spark or would it just not pick up if it was not within range ?

 

PM'd you back...

 

You need to tune it. I have an fic fs

 

True but it should still start

 

After some messages from gerzand and some searching from his advise the manifold presure is to low from the cams.
I don't know how to fix this problem without spending a arm and a leg.
Still have not tryied to switch the map sensor.
It's raining.
Anyone got any idea's I can do myself without needing someone to tune it to get it to run. I would hate to shell out 1500 for everything including the tune just to get it to start.
When If it comes down to it a can get some cls cams for just over 300 and call it a day.

 

Type S fuel pressure should be 40-46psi I think the regulator is spec'd at 43psi.

 

False.

 

check maybe you accidentally switched the TPS and MAF sensors ?

 

check timing

 

Vac test showed 1/2 " on cranking 5" when it went to start.
vac is way to low.
far as I know it should have 4-5" cranking.

 

You're going to need much higher compression to run that large of a cam, its sad to say

Thats a race cam, and needs at least 12.0:1 (preferably 12.5:1)

 

how did he end up with those flat top pistons shown in previous pages ... i would think those would be of less compression than the stock type S at 10.5

 

Thats a good point. I'm not sure of that, but my much more mild Bisimoto cams had issues at startup with a J32A3 stock 11:1 CR...and those were 415/423 lift. I can only imagine what a 460/465 would be on a 11:1, much less a 10.5:1 or lower CR....