Right on I would love to rev just a little higher. Eventually I plan on some head work with better cams and something to tune with.

 

Got some goodies to get the rev's up a little today.



9 grams differance between stock spring and retainer and the supertechs.
I did not bother comparing the supertech ti seats.

 

Does anyone know the valve tip lenth and type of the f22a valves ?

The reason I ask because it will open us up on a option for stainless intake valves for close to the price of stock valves.
I'm trying to share info,not saying they are going to work yet but the bisimoto f22a +2mm intake valves have the same
overall lenth
head size
stem size

Or I might get into some valve blanks from ferrea depending on cost of the machine work required.
ferrea won't sell dirctly to me and I don't want to pay someone else to figure then make money off buying the valves too.
And I found a seller that will get me blanks.
F0233 for intake
F0231 for exhaust

 

I was wrong on the bisi valves they are short.
The f22b1 have the same lenth but the stem is 5.48mm and our stems are 5.5 so not sure if thats even a option without changing guides.
And then the tips lenth is still needed.

I can't win no matter what avenue I go.
This is from the seller who said he could get me blanks.

(I can sell you blanks, but the part numbers you mentioned, Ferrea has no stock and no ETA.)


Trying to find the cheapest option for valves,the hunt continues.

 

I guess I will try to go threw manley.
I think they will sell to me directly.
these exhaust valves look dam close,seat are at maximum service limit though.
11379-8Exh.30 mm5.5 mm/.2165”114.25 mm3.5 mm25° x 11/32".065".080"20° Dish

 

Finnally pulled the valve seals and seats out tonight.
Installed cam seals and test fit the cams. They fit just fine no clearance issues at all.
Getting close to starting building.

 

^ Nice. What kind of whp are you aiming for?

 

What ever it happens to end up.
I don't want to go around claiming #'s.
I'm sure it will kick some ass and that's all I want and to be able to punk supercharged type s's .

 

Pm info about ir cam spacers

 

So your wanting 300+

That's achievable. Your probably gonna need a tune with that kind of hp though, but it's do-able.

 

If it puts out less than 3, I will take a bat to it.
I think I'm close to 3k in parts already And I think I have another 2k left to spend ,not even including all the hours in the porting and a muti angle valve job.
I'm looking for un heard off #'s N/A.
I think eddie made a touch over 3 and I think I should be able to do a bit better.
He started the 3.7 drive for us and I'm going to continue to seek out what the motor is capable of.
I'm willing to bet theirs another 25-50 more that can be extracted than the previous.
If I could get another 50 It would be worth the efforts.

 

Are you planning on opening up the intake more like civic did? Also are you getting custom headers and exhaust made. Without doing those things I dont think you can get much over 300 since those seem to be the limiting factor.

I am going the much cheaper route with stock internals, hoping for 280-300 whp when I am done. That extra 25-50 whp after that is the hard part.

 

Still here watching outcome. Good luck!

 

Today for the hell of it I measure my new cams lifts.
just to make sure my valve spring choice would work.
Springs are good for 12.3mm of max lift
these cams have 11.8mm max lift
These cams are probably as aggressive as Supertech stuff can handle.


They are probally good mid and great top end.
I don't have the stuff to do the duration but,
Intake lift .460
Exhaust lift .466

I need to get my compression up to deal with these

The level 2 Bisimoto's
Intake lift .415
exhaust lift .423
Quite a bit of difference between mine and the bisi cams.
I don't think these would be good to pass emissions with.

 

Did you check for clearance from your valve spring retainer and your valve seal? Since the retainer sits down into the spring a bit. You want to make sure the bottom of the retainer does not hit the valve seal on top of the valve guide.

If you dont know how, FYI load one of the vlaves in the head with the spring, retainer and lock. One intake and one exhaust. Then compress it to your cams max lift and check the clearance bewtween the two. Should have at least .030. At least thats what I was told when I did another engine. All they had to do was shave the valve guide down a bit to get the clerance. $40.00 for a SBC 16 valve V8.

 

No I have not checked that yet.
My heads don't have any valve seals in them yet.
Once I finally pick my valves and have a valve job done then I will be able to figure it a little more accuratly.

I dont think shaving the guide on these will make the the seal sit any lower. I think the grooves on the guide is what actually holds the seal.
I could be wrong, I'll take a look at them tomorrow.
Maybe installing the whole guide a little lower ?

 

That could be something to look at also. Not sure how low they could press them in though. Shaving valve guides is pretty common when going to a large lift cam. I'd bet they would tell ya no problem to shave them. But then again I don't know what they look like in the J32.

 

Finally got a active tracking number for my CF hood and trunk.

 

Lookie what landed today.

 

Lookin good! I don't want to know how much shipping on that must have been though. Ahhh!

 

you have way way to much money lol wanna donate something for my project lol

 

let us know how the trunk fits.

 

The trunk is on.
And it fit fine ,no crazyness,nothing to even mention.
Only issue I had was lining up the latch. I had to put 4washers 2 on each side behind the striker.
I have it sitting a little high in the back only due to not wanting any contact. I can make it sit flush with the body but a have a fairly new trunk seal and have to shut it with a good amount of force.
One thing to note.
Do not pop the trunk without your hand on it or you might lose it.
going to snap a pic

 

It dark out but it's on.
I will get a good one when it's light out.

this trumk was made april of this year .I dont know if it's a new mold or not.

 

hmmmm not bad at all. idk y the other 2 member on here were having problems with trunk fitments

 

Front is on.
I took the MDX spacer out since I did not want to start banging on the hood with the manifold.
It was maybe 1/8" from touching.


My drivers headlight needs to move over a smidge so I can lower the hood more flush.
I just did not feeeling like doing it after installing the hood,the pain is the ass grill and lowering the manifold and intake tube.

 

 

Changed my oil today and left my house phone on the shock tower and shut the hood.
My hood was leaned up in the back and across the whole side like racja's hood was before.
Thought I was going to break my hood.
pulled the phone out and I did break my house phone.
Man I'm bad at leaving things around and on the motor and just shut the hood.

 

did you weigh the OE vs the stock hood/trunk?

 

No but I just came in from getting my hood perfect .
It was the hood struts that were to strong and not letting it shut.
So I am going to run no hood struts and just keep one in the car in case I need to hold it up on the road.
Pic up soon of the perfect sitting hood.
Been messing with the the back and I think it's the same deal that the trunk arm rods are not letting it get totally flush.

Anyone ever remove their trunk rods without using the trunk rod tool ?
Also can only one be removed at a time to see if thats where the problem is ?
May have to switch some struts for the trunk if thats the problem.

 

I know I need to redo my lights.
Now this has no bad gaps beside I still need to push the driver light over a hair.

 

Not specifically on my CL, but on my '02 Accord Coupe I tried to just change it to the stronger of the two setting (since it had a spoiler), and they are really under some tension! Be careful if you try. (I eventually thought to ask the honda tech servicing my car and he pulled out a simple tool and reset the tension in 30 seconds )

I believe its the same as on the Accord, and there is a single rod connecting them. Take a look under the rear deck. I remember having an issue with the rod (or rods) clipping the aftermarket speakers until I reset the tension stronger.


Good luck, car's looking great btw!

 

I just used a pair of vise grips and they are out of there.
Trunk is sitting much better now the trunk stricker bolt line up holes will be getting filed so I can bring it down lower hoping for perfect fitment.
Now I have nothing to hold the trunk open but,saved a couple pounds.

Also thinking about removing the windshield washer stuff.
I have'nt filled the the fuild container in over 3 years and it's basically full.
That's how much I use it. Dead weight can go.

 

Instead of doing some under hood cleaning like I need to I added some color to the front valve cover and the oem strut bar.
Since I removed the mdx spacer I think it lost some looks so I tryied to add something back.

 

Updated pics on the trunk? In the pic above you can see the gap between it and the bumper. Thats one of the many issues I and another member had with it.

 

It is alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I get one for you tomorrow.
Just got in from detailing under the hood, alot.
I still got more to do and I don't even want to.

Are you still going to that meet in charlotte ?
If you are you can see fitment in person.

 

Ill definitely be there.

 

Are you bringing the cl ?
Should I re-install my nitrous for the day ? Only kidding or am I.....

 

Meet in Charlotte? When, Where... I am 3 hrs. away and my brother lives in Charlotte. LMK