The headers are back in and car feels a little faster.
Wish test n tune was everyday.

 

Home porting is not free I guess.
I did not wear glasses the whole time and got a piece in the eye and did not even know till late last night.
could'nt get it out and went to the hospital because it was bothering me so bad I did not want to open my eye.
They used some sort of electric grinding thing and got it out.
Now my eye is really irritated.

When the hospital bill comes I might have to add that to the cost of my headers.

 

4+ MPH lost? Wtf? It feels okay though? 4MPH is huge....

Damn man, sorry to hear about your eye. Why wouldn't you wear glasses when grinding metal though? Hope your eye gets better.

 

it was running 86 mph.
and just with just about a 40lb loss it should've picked up a mph or two.
The car seams to run hard. 2 gear can get a little steering wheel gripy sometimes.
it did still run a faster et with the 4 mph loss.

when i was traping 86 I had my other headers on that were gasket matched.
slower trap runs i did not have gasket matched headers on.

Now that my new headers are matched and back on I'm hoping that I can get some power back.

yea, dumb to grind stuff without glass.
they said i'll be good in a couple days.Thank god it was not in a spot that would block my vision. they like shaved my eye in a spot to get it out.
Wearing the wifes sun glasses because light is horrible right now.

 

Glad they said you should be alright.

4MPH is a lot man. I'd have to think it's more than just the port matched flange on the headers. And a reduction of 40lbs may net you 0.5 MPH max, not 1-2.

 

I've done more trying to tune the car with tps,fuel pressure and idle speed.
I did find one burn out moment after I came back from the track.
I had the car the way I wanted it. Then before I left I decided to add another 50rpm to my idle speed and that actually changed my tps rest voltage again.
had it set and .49 and when I got back and looked everything over it was at .61 wich will take the performance away.
all set again and did the headers so we'll see.

I think the car is in the need of bigger injectors also.
at idle the car shows it's adding 18-20% fuel with the stock injectors at 60psi. I can get 10% @ 62psi. the car needs like 64psi to be good.
64psi is a bit much for the stock injectors I'm guessing.
So I think 15-20% larger injectors will be my next move.I will also be able to get the fuel pressure down and not being near maxxing the injectors.

 

a little maintaince , and about to do a little modding.

 

Changing the idle speed will affect performance? Is that via the TPS screw or whatever on the TB?

 

If you change the idle position it will change tps resting voltage/position too.

Pedal bracket bent.
Now I'm finally reaching WOT.

closed 9.8%

I can go 100% but Throttle stopped at 92%

Getting cold and dark so that's good enough till tomorrow and then I'll look at the WOT voltage.

 

Made more adjustments this morning and just came back from a ride.
Drivability/light throttle has improved so much that I don't ever remember the car ever pulling so easy with so little pedal.
I was around town so their was no WOT runs but,It definitly feels like I added a new performance piece when easy on the throttle,WOT it's got to boogie now.
Also I've been wondering if the fuel filter might've helped.
As of now tps is .47 rest and 4.72 WOT. I might have to mod my throttle stop I just made today if 4.72v is too much for WOT.
The way it drives so far I think it's fine.

 

Went to the track today.
Plaged from the start. First run throttle stop bent. And was cutting fuel when I would press the pedal. Didn't bring any tools so I ran back to the house I balled some sound deadener under the pedal and tried to getto set my 4.5 wot voltage.
Went back to the track to see if the correct 4.5v would help.
Everytime I pushed the pedal to the floor it would change and I would have to back out of the throttle not to make it go over 4.5 making it fuel cut.
And I could not get good traction either in the low 40's.
So I had to baby it off the line not to spin and not put my foot to the floor or I would just go slower cutting fuel.
I am going to take my time and get the TB right before the next time I go.
These are my best one's today.
I was running my 86mph traps again. today was my highest mph trap of 86.975

 

Some drilling and taping for a throttle stop and TB/TPS are on the money now.
Fuel is good too. First time ever my afr went right to target upon cold start.
Also short and long fuel trims Both started at 0 and went only as high as +4. For me thats unheard of .
.47 closed

4.49 WOT

 

Nice times and mph.Thats weird that you trapped 82 on the first slip then 86 on the next two, what happened on the first run? So when you gonna finally take that thing to a 1/4mile, you might break a 12.

 

Had tps issue's and no throttle stop.

 

No big updates but, I got 3 more lbs of weight out of the car today. Got the rest of the inside fire wall deader under the drivers side out today.
1 neon tube,and the old fuel realy and braket I left in when I swaped the new fuel realy.
Also put my braillie on a charger after one year dead and so far it's taking the charge.
That's 7lbs lighter than the lightest wallmart battery I could find with over 500cca that im running now.
Should be another 10lbs lighter tomorrow.

Also eye balling all the fire wall deader behind the heater box all the way up to the top of the dash.
I have never removed the heater box or the whole dash but,the deadener is obviously dead weight.
Anyone removed these pieces and can share exp. with removing and reinstalling, that would be great.
I don't want to remove stuff that I will have a problem trying to reinstall.

 

Removing the dash itself isnt hard if you have a 2nd person to help you lift it out of the car. There is just a lot to unplug and a few hidden bolts.

 

^
thanks alot man.

Finnally got some real street tunning time in.

Best performance for my car is
tps .39 closed 4.52 wot
fuel pressure 64psi
afr seeing target at idle
afr wot goes 13.5 ,13.1 with peaks to 12.5
it's pulling pretty dam good now. I took a ride to a more country area and was doing some wot 50 to 100mph runs and it pulled hard the whole time.

Also my down shifts from drive (35mph) going wot are slamming me back in my seat.I've never felt that before that hard.
The first time it kind of spooked me.

I have a feeling I will be seeing my fastest et's next time I go to the track.

 

Good stuff man. 86-87 in the 1/8th is moving. Your 60' seem to be solid as well, with most @ 2.1x. Nice work. Question...I never messed with the idle screw on my 09 TL throttle body. Should I assume the ECU corrected for the voltage? Or should I change it? Dom has PM'd me and is helping me, just want to make sure I am doing it right.

 

If your TB is factory and came with a TPS already mounted then most likely you don't have to touch it.
As long as it see's 4.5v WOT then it's good for WOT.
The closed number is how soon and how much the fuel comes into play from what I take of it.
with my tps set at .37 it's adding 7.1% at idle.
At one time it was as high as 12% percent but, off idle suffered.
Someone else might be able to explain it better.I just figured this stuff as I go between a wideband,scanner,and a multimeter.

Today was the first day I got a couple hours with no fam and some street time

Hope a can rip a 8.3 but,my magic ball is telling me 8.4's this weekend

 

Another 19lbs out today.

 

blower box,evap box,and all inside firewall deadener thats under the passenger side dash

 

I am assuming you removed the dash? Did you do it by yourself, and how hard was it to remove and reinstall. Are you gonna reinstall blower box?

I want to remove my dash to get all that foam out plus some extra wiring.

 

Its not hard. I pasted the instructions above. Ive had mine out a couple times now, I can do it in under 30 min now.

 

I have service manual with instructions, I was just asking his personal experience with removing and reinstalling without help.

 

I did not go as far as removing the dash "yet".
Just got the 2 boxes out to just get the passenger side deadener all out.Will I ? Most likely,I got to get out all the deadener.
I plan atleast leaving them out for the weekend but,then again that's what I have said to myself about everything I've already removed.

 

Another 7lbs out.

 

4 more pounds out today.

 

And i also posted my experience saying its wasnt hard, just a lot to unplug and unbolt. I have taken mine out by myself, its not hard, just awkward but much easier to do with an extra set of hands.

 

No more e brake?

 

Fixed

 

Right? Seriously looking forward to your explanation lol. Did you convert to handbrake? Confused

 

I don't ever just sit still burning the tires.
I have street tires.
I just hit the gas to about 5k let off and give another quick pump to shake the water off the tires.
That's all they need.


Explanation would be weight loss nothing more.
My car does not need a hand brake till it's time for inspection atleast but,I will be doing the hand brake swap before then.
If you want to be the fastest you got to remove pieces others wouldn't.

 

Shit, if you want to get crazy with the weight rip the shoes and springs out of the rear brakes as well, and just run a hydraulic handbrake or even a line lock on the rear lines if you need it to pass inspection.

 

Waste today.first 5 runs the was cutting fuel and I was not able to get into 3rd. Just about every car I lined up against I got them off the line Then it was all she wrote when I could not get into 3rd.
Shortened up my throttle stop then I was getting into 3rd but other than my 60ft times being 2.0's all other times sucked bad.the car feels real strong so I'm confused.
Back to the drawing board I guess.mathematically there's no way I should be slower with all the weight I taken out.going to go over everything again to see if there's any problems.I did not bring my multi meter so I could not change tips resting position to sde if it would make a difference guess I should have. Need some tunning for sure.

 

After countless 2nd to 3rd WOT runs I got the car going to 3rd everytime now.
Trying oem spec's would not take for either side closed,tip in or wot.
So I just deceided to just adjust to how the car runs.not by spec.
To shift WOT voltage has to be 4.40v
While maintaining the 4.40 WOT I just keep adjusting closed side for best drivability and now that's at .55v

Is it as good as it once was,who knows but the car is ripping.

Also I feel like I learned some magic.
My agm braillie was dead with 0v after a draining and sat for a year.
On 2 differnt chargers I could only get it to 10.5v.
I found a post that said you can bring back agm batterys by hooking up a 2nd battery with jumpers so the charger see's over 12v and it will charge.
So I did and the battery had a 12.1v charge in 4 hours.
I didn't know how far to push the agm voltage so I stopped there.
Let it sit over night and before I installed the battery it read 11.94v.
It started the car the first crank and also seamed to crank the car faster at 11.9 than the battery I took out that showed 12.3
I guess I'm going to just have to top it off now.

Another 8.2lbs lost today with battery swap.

 

Bored today. Deceided to adjust the valves.

 

How much more lbs are you trying to lose?

I know i miss it somewhere but what TB our you using?

 

I want to lose as much as possible and still be able to retrn it back to stock fairly easy.
Throttle body is 90mm. It might be a bit much.


Did some street driving today after the valve adjust and performance seems to have increased.Exhaust note sounds better at idle.

Can't wait till tomorrow.
Seams like it's been forever to get below 8.5

 

dunno if you have removed the stereo and its amp in the back seat yet but that thing is heavy

 

Today was the quickest times and I was running with the sunroof open again.
running nothing less than 2.0 60ft's today.
1.9's on street tires.