Got some longer screws,drilled out,and made a gasket for my 90mm throttle body spacer.
Going to try a little more volume.

 

Those work great a friend of mine as it on his 08 turbo SER-V. You should see a major difference

 

Spacer fitted.

 

A little weight reduction.

 

You should get a new intake manifold. 09 tl intake manifold at the least it gains more power and is 1/2 to 1/3 of the weight. Not to mention it is magnesium alloy so it will stay cooler. But what I would do with the 3.7 is the dual throttle body set up so you can get some much needed air into that motor. Props on the work so far

 

Got another 30ft roll.

Did the lower runners more than half way around the tubes.
I did not go all the way around since I did not want to trap heat in.
Did the fuel rails too.
Now I need to just finish the botom of the upper manifold and do the part of the oil pan that the exhaust passes by.

 

Sneak peek at richardparker's motor to come...



Looks like I was wrong about the whole not adding "performance and status" thing.

 

Only thing on mine that you will see is the cai. and a shot from the back side of the manifold so when I tell someone it's wrapped they can actually see some.
Manifold done.

 

Maybe it's just me but, I think this will help. And it will definitly help when the swain coated headers show up.

 

Did a 20 second temp test with a lighter and a metal square.

uncoated :
metal started at 71 degrees ,temp went to 125 degrees.

switched sides
coated:
metal started at 74 degrees,temp went to 108 degrees.

That's a 20 degree difference with direct flame.

 

lower runners and fuel rails back in.

 

The rest back in,tps set.
Now I need a full engine bay detail.

I made this much tape to be seen on the back of the manifold it will help sheild the heat from the PS pump.

 

Can't contain myself.
My headers started their way back to me yesterday.
It's going to be 70 this weekend.
If I get them back before the end of the week I will be at the track with hopes for gains over my 8.5.

Since the 8.5

just under 40lbs lighter
TB spacer
DEI gold wrapped pieces
75a inovative mounts
Swain coated headers

Hoping for a 8.3

 

Might I make a fine recommendation for the worldest fastest NA car?

 

Using a single belt crank pulley deleting power steering or are you just being a gold hating retard again ?
Going to put some more gold on the oil pan today.
Hate on.

Every place I put the gold has a purpose it's not for decoration.

 

Pan done good enough for me.
glad I did this,found a missing bolt

 

We should be BFF's you and I.

 

So, do you have anything useful to add or are you just trolling?

 

^He is a DB.
Headers came back today and they look great compared to what I sent them.
Totally impressed with the coating from the looks of it.


Close up.
This stuff is a very thick ruff coating.
It's definitly for more than just looks.

 

nice!

 

Joking people, my bad.

Richardparker, you're more than welcome to joke and/or intimidate with me in my thread anytime. ;-)

Btw, what's the purpose of the coating...decreasing heat?

 

I've been wanting to try this coating for awhile.
Installing tomorrow.

I did notice something though. My old headers,I matched the flanges and these one's i didn't.
I'm just slapping them on anyway for now so I can get some track time while it's going to be nice as hell out this weekend and finally get my wideband hooked up aswell.

just did a temp test with the headers before and afters.
45 sec burn with a lighter from the inside the collector side of the j pipe.

uncoated 254 degree's swain coated 144 degrees

the uncoated side numbers were starting to move really fast while the swain side was going number by number.
If I took the temps higher their would've been a even bigger spread in number.
This stuff really does something that's for sure.

 

White Lightning
By insulating the exhaust system, gases inside are kept at the highest possible temperature resulting in greater exhaust gas velocity and higher efficiency.
White Lightning™ insulating headers typically reduces radiant heat by about 35-55%. This reduction in radiant temperature will decrease under hood and cockpit temperatures. Lower under hood temperatures lead to lower intake temperatures. A 10°F reduction in intake air temperature provides a 1% increase in horsepower. A 30°F reduction equates to a 3% horsepower increase
If you go to swain tech you can get a full description.

 

Headers are in.
Had to drill out the flange bolt holes,no biggie.
First start up did not see or hear any exhaust leaks but the tone of the exhaust seams more mellow. Maybe because the flanges need to be gasket matched again. I don't know.

The poly mounts are stiff as hell compared to oem. engine does not even move.My oem vac lines to the front and rear mounts were totally rotted and split eveywhere.And those are less than 5k miles.
Although wheels are not on the ground yet and car in gear I can tell their will be more power to the wheels.

Just got to make sure my wide band and my new o2 sensor is out the way of the exhaust and axle then it time to go for a ride.
I will update ride and feel of the inovative mounts later tonight.

Track day tomorrow as long as everything is good.

 

going to take a ride in a min.
I let the car warm up to temp 3times in a row and the highest iat would go was 93 degrees and the manifold was cool. so cool I want to say cold.
I did not remember iat's before but 93 has to be dam low.

 

Car is much more responsive off the line and off throttle cruise to blips or full throttle.
Car at idle is not bad. Car in gear the car shakes pretty bad.I don't mind but,if the wife drives it she might say something else.
Going to the track tomorrow,sure seams faster to me but,the slips will tell all.

 

The mounts will make the biggest difference made a big difference for me

 

Real crappy day today.
Went to leave for the track and a rear tire was flat with a inch wide cut.
So then I pull both rear tires to swap a pair and went to every dam tire place around and not one was open.
the only one was tire kingdom and they wanted to charge me 80 to swap a pair. Funk that.
I went home and put my own plugs in and it held.
So I went to the track 1.5hours late and their was a bunch of people there and I sat in line for 1hour and made one run.
ran 8.9 .
car ran good till 3rd then it started bogging right before v tec.
Then I decided to leave because I was not sitting in line again.
Throttle was sticking all the way home.
tps was reading higher than I set it.
Fixxed that.
Then and I had to up the fuel pressure because it was not right either.
Now it seamed beter but throttle response was not great.
removed the TB spacer then it was way beter.
So I guess I should've took a little more time messing with the car before I went.
I will try again next weekend,then I guess I will have to port match up the flanges on the headers.
That's the only place I could be losing anything now.

 

Cut the metal throttle pedal stop on the floor.
Had only 69.2 % throttle now got it to 86% which 89% is 100% for me. The blade looks all the way open now.
Now the car down shifts and is faster.
I spun 2nd all the way to redline easy.
Before on crappy tires it would spin 10-20 ft of 2nd, now on better tires it spins all of 2nd.
I would say it's a bit faster.

Can't wait till tomorrow.

 

Here's the headers installed.


And my new mounts.



Hitting the track in 1 hour,hopefully quicker times.

 

 

The mounts should help ya out quite a bit on overall performance on the track. I ended up doing solid mounts all the way around (except for the front and rear) on my swap. I'll tell ya this, that motor does NOT move a hair when idling. Also I have good feedback from the engine/trans. which helps with "feeling" things out under acceleration.

Like the effort and direction this is going.

 

My engine dsnt move with 75a poly mounts, stiffy mount, and 2 nrg dampers. My strut bar is only a few mm from the rear plenum and has never touched.

I am curious how you went about fabricating the solid mounts tho and how bad are the vibrations? Also what do you mean by all the way around minus the front and back? Wouldn't that only leave the sides?

 

Mounts did show quicker 60 foot times.
But,I've lost 4+ mph somewhere.
If I still had the 4+ mph I would've made a really good et. I still think the header flanges need to be port matched.

 

I used 1/8" angular steel to fabricate the upper/lower transmission mounts. That was 2 of the 5 mounts. On the opposite side (passenger) I used a combination of the TL-S and Accords aluminum alloy engine mount brackets which left a 1.5" void between them and the frame that was filled using a aluminum spacer...third solid mount. The front and rear mounts (that bolt to the subframe) were left original from the 07 TL-S. I think everyone refers to the last two mounts as the left and right side?....as you did. ;-)

As for the vibrations, yes. There's definitely an increase of the engine and trans vibrations but not anything that most would consider 'significant'. Then again, Acura supposedly went pretty far to ensure that the j35a8 was balanced very well and I can say that despite the rev range the engine stays strangely smooth.

Sorry to thread jack Parker...

 

You know what's about to go down.

Can't just leave the flanges like this.
I know they are stealing some of my power and I'm not having that.

 

One just about done,The other about half done.
This makes the inlet huge compared to stock headers

 

2nd one done.

 

I did the same thing to my comptech headers. Looking good RichardParker!

 

2nd set for me.