I agree might as well go with the tl IM and b series tb.

I am gonna stick with my ported stock type s IM and bored stock tb for now. I think this setup is capable of almost 300whp and 265 tq. If you are looking for anything more than that then id go with the tl IM and b series tb.

 

I'm just going to chime in here because this stuff to advanced for my knowledge lol just being honest...but we can use a B series TB on our cars??

 

Yes with some modification. I have one I'm going to try and get working in the spring.

 

It should bolt up to to the cable driven IM (pre 03) you can mod you cable bracket and make a plate for the IACV like Richard showed in this thread or P2R make a kit for like $90 that does both.

 

What is the cheapest way to do a magnesium manifold without the butterfly setup ?
I seen somewhere that the valve covers on the newer j's were also made out of magnesium to save weight.
If true I wonder if those fit on a a2 head.

Today I started making a TB adapter to bolt my type s throttle body to my Bigger manifold for the 90mm TB but I'm not going to have it ready by tomorrow.

But, I did switch to some 25" hoosier's in the rear and re jetted the nitrous +25shot.

Since I'm stuck with the smaller manifold this weekend I think I'm try and see if the engine will take the extra dose of the spray.

 

Hell ya Richard I'm gonna try to get down to shady side tommorow and watch you run. Hopefully it does not rain!

 

Just came back from a ride spraying the +25shot i added and my car had my heart racing.
So i have a .052 nitrous and a .026 fuel jet afr goes 10.8 on the spray.
anyone think it would be ok to lean the fuel jet to a .021 or just be happy with the but dyno improvement and the safer 10.8 afr i have now?

 

I definitely need a bigger manifold and throttle body.
I still could not break a 8.1 and still down on mph.
Even with bumping the nitrous it seamed like I'm jambing all the air I can into the manifold and don't get any benefit for the extra spray.

I did get some great 60ft times though that should of got me quicker et's but it didn't.
1.862 60 ft on a open diff fwd is pretty dam good.

 

Richard that's still damn good! hate I could not make down there today, my sitter backed out on my so I spent the day with the kids. I have got to see you run!

 

I finshed up adapting my oem tb to my bigger manifold in the dark last night.
I could only feel a little gain from the clp manifold and came to realize it's the tiny tb holding back the power.
So once again I start looking for a solution for getting the 90mm tb working and came across this video that shows a tps getting bench set by ohms not on the car by volts.
So i set the tps at the same ohms as the oem tb.


And so far Its shifting everytime wot into 3rd without hitting the rev limiter.
It's just now it hits fuel cut either once or twice before it shifts 2nd.
fuel cut is better than the rev limiter.
It's getting close.

 

Congrats on the 60ft and et. So close to breaking into the 7's.

 

Thanks,
I know its got it in it if it is running 8.1 with a clp manifold and oem TB.

I used the nitrous doing my rolling burnouts this time and I was able to get the tires to smoke a little before getting to the line.
I could actually feel the tires wrinkle and hook.
Maybe I should put a ebrake back in.

 

Glad you got your big TB working and back on that awesome!!

 

Im having a bitch of a time with the stock TB getting things set right. The voltage is either too high or to low. I have tried different tps sensors. If i get the voltage close the ECU is only seeing about 89% tp when wide open, and fully closed it shows its open 8%

 

try this setting on your meter.
566 closed 1430 wot.
thats what my oem tb shows.

 

With your TB at those values when its WOT, with the code reader/data show that the TB is open 100%?

 

The oem throttle body is not in the car but i think it sat at 9.2% closed and like 88-89% wot.

 

And is that normal? Shouldnt it be 100% at wot???

 

I assume so. i never touch the oem tps

 

See thats what my oem TPS was showing too. It never showed fully closed or 100% at WOT and what got me into playing around with one.

 

I havent tried to see if the car will shift on the spray yet but, today will be the day.
Putting in a fresh bottle now and getting ready for some test n tune action.
hoping to bust out of the 8's.

 

Its and awesome day to be at the track! Should be interesting to see your times this week now that you got you TB straighten out.

 

Definitely not straightend out.
First few runs were bad, 8.4-8.5's with fuel cuts every gear.
I end up stopping the 1st to 2nd fuel cut but, i could not get rid of the 2nd to 3rd.

Managed to beat my quickest time so far even though it was running like crap with a 8.10 and my 60ft's are knocking on the door of 1.7's.
I should be pulling 7.8's all day.
I really need someone to tune this car or do a 6speed swap and be done with the shifting issues.

 

Richard that is still impressive, but I know its frustrating as h*** working through issues. I wish we had a good way to tune these car! 6speed swap would be awesome !!!!!

 

Woohoo, Richard hit the dark side!

Lol, good to see you going further and experimenting with some good ole funny gas. Btw, TPS will generally never see an exact 100% at WOT on these engines. More like 96-99% and generally at the higher end of that scale.

 

Dont know if im making progress or chasing my tail.
Got the car ripping with no fuel cuts on the motor but im hitting the rev limiter at the end of 2nd again.
adjusting the dam tps.

i noticed my afr was going lean as soon as it went closed loop.whats the reason im unsure but i unplugged my front o2 and it runs great and i have much better control of my fuel at idle.
Is my o2 bad ?

 

Your engine deserves a tune. What about a piggyback like emanage ultimate? Haven't those worked in the past for auto sensors? Would be on the cheaper side and might give you the consistency you want. I'm sure you could street tune it yourself with your knowhow.

 

Richard it could be the o2 sensor since you noticing a jump in AF ratio when you switch to closed loop. It might could just be nearing the end of its life, you could ohm it out and see. But I have had them read out in the resistance parameters and still not function 100%.

 

So today as I'm starting to go grey trying to figure out what's going on.
while checking voltage i decided to check tps voltage while activating the nitrous switch and saw a .40 increase in voltage.
i would imagine it would also increase with the car running and the higher the rpm went.
i got my tps voltage down to 2.60v and 58% throttle and everything seams to be great when spraying threw every gear.
and since mostly any time i was hitting the limiter was on the spray it might be a good idea to try to activate it another way to get it off the tps signal wire.

 

I just installed a rpm switch and got the zex box off the tps signal wire to see if that makes a difference with everything.
I haven't tried it yet.
The lowest chip I have is 3700 so thats what I'll try first.

 

Richard I had know idea the the ZEX tied in to the tps circuit, hope the the new MSD box fixes the problems. You gonna be down at Shady Side this Sunday I might have chance to get down there?

 

If i can get the car straightend out i will go. If not i dont want to embarass myself
Hitting rev limiter or fuel cuts going down the track. tired of going only 8.1 and my motor having all kinds of stress over it.
I wish i could make quicker shift points.

 

Id venture to guess the extra voltage draw was effecting the way the ecu was reading the TPS circuit. Now adjust your TPS back to where it should be now that you have the RPM switch and see what it does.

 

Ive got 3 Tb's that are stock (untouched TPS) and struggle to get past 90% wot and show about 10% when closed.

 

Today I'm going to adjust the tps voltage right at the ecu to make sure the ecu is getting the correct voltage.
then i might try to get another speedo to see if that's a problem.if rpm or mph are not reading right it might cause the problem.
i need to recheck my own thread to see if i ws talking about shifting problems before i put the type s speedo in.
i changed it because of a bad fuel gauge but whhen i did get the type s ecu in the mail the speedo needle wasat rest as far as it would go. i had to open it and wind the neddle back.
possibly the speedo was bunk.

 

The ecu isnt getting the signal from the speedo, its giving the speedo the signal. If the ecu is giving the signal it shouldnt matter what the gauges are reading. I had the TL-P auto speedo in for a while with the 6 speed and never had an issue.

 

O yea the 2 speed sensors in the trans.
no matter how i set the tps it seams like it will shift good the first try wot then it will hit revlimiter at like 7200 rpm everytime.
only thing i know is .42 closed has got me the best throttle response. i ever had.

Anyone have the ecu pinout for a auto trans ?
All 4 right side plugs.
I'm starting to think i might have a wiring issue.
yesterday morning i pulled codes.
po118
Po113
P1259
Po710
And I've always had p1656 because of not running a vsa.

I've cleared codes and they did not come back.
maybe the wires are on the same plug.
I'm getting so frustrated that I'm about to put a car cover on it before i end up breaking the car and wait till i have extra money to throw some parts at it.
Last thing is to go threw the wiring then i don't give a shit about the car.

maybe all those wires are on the same plug

 

Trying to dig in a little further,but im not that electric guy.
Since I got all those codes I started to try to figure why they were all reading high. They never came back but,they came on.
I colored wires on the diagram to do some following.
They are all on the same plug.
I got connuity c18 to c24 c25 c26 c27
with key on I have
2.8v - c24- tatf
3.33v- c25 - iat
3.23v- c26 - ect
.38v - c27 - tps
that's all I checked so far.
I don't know where the 4 green and yellow ground wires are.
and I don't know specs of sensors.
Could it be possible that I might be having high input voltages from my lithium battery it sits at 13.2v all day.
Anyone know wich wire is the main power input for the ecu and the voltage it should have ?

 

I didn't thoroughly read through up there ^^^ but a quick scan of the info you gave appears to show you're having an issue with your 5V reference coming from the ECM. The ECM can send and share a 5V reference with multiple sensors. This means that if one of the sensors were to internally short, it would affect all of the remaining sensors because the shortage is dragging down the voltage. Without a reference voltage being in design range, these sensors don't send back accurate data back to the ECM therefore you will generally have multiple trouble codes stored in the memory...wether as current or history codes.

I recommend disconnecting those sensors one at a time while checking the reference voltage each time until either you have your full 5 volts back OR you have disconnected all sensors without any change in reference voltage. Obviously, if the reference voltage returns when a sensor is disconnected, the sensor is bad and must be replaced. If you get no change whatsoever out of disconnecting them, chances are you have a wiring issue and/or a faulty ECM.

In my profession, if I've worked all the way through the sensors with no change in voltage, I then go straight to the ECM and do the following test. Locate the terminal position of the reference voltage on the ECM and with key on and connectors plugged in, CUT THE WIRE about 4-6" away from the ECM and then check voltage again from the wire coming out of the ECM. If your 5 volt reference is there, you have a fault in the wiring harness (most common) and you need to either replace the harness or make repairs to the existing circuit(s) that are causing the shortage.

If your voltage STILL doesn't return, you have a high probability of the ECM being bad. But there is that slight chance of what I call a "inadvertent shortage" which is basically a short on a circuit that affects another circuit that has NOTHING to do with the other whatsoever. Not very common but when these appear or happen, they can be a real pain in the ass to diagnose because of their elusiveness.

Any of that make sense? Lol

 

Good luck figuring out the issue RP. Don't give up so easy.

Nice info and knowledge youngone.