I went for a ride to Afghanistan today for a stock tb to eliminate the tps sensor being the problem.
reseting ecu now.

 

Spent a bunch of time on the car today.
And I'm done.
I am thinking the TL trans has a valve body issue.

Borrowing a engine lift for this weekend to put my old trans and the higher stall converter in and see if that solves the problem.

 

You need to 6speed that thing finally and call it a day.

 

No trans swap is happening this weekend i guess.rained all night.ground is soggy and it is supposed to rain all weekend.

sombody riddle me this.
yesterday i took the car out before reaching operating temp and the car was shifting all gears. once the car was up to temp it was holding 2nd wot.
so i was considering one of the temp sensor might be bad so i changed the iat and ect and the car seamed to shift at operating temp.
but when i was in ss mode in 3rd i dropped it to 2nd wot and it held it again.
i checked the trans temp sensor and it said 50 ohms up to temp.
which makes that one in range when warm i haven't checked it cold.
I'm also wondering if I'm not letting the pcm learn enough before i go wot..
could that be a issue.
i mean i adjust the tps and after a couple of fan cycles i try to go wot time after time.

 

Did 2 more things and its shifting every time on the motor.
i haven't tried the nitrous yet .
for the hell of it i ran with the atf sensor disconected and also made I'm some wot runs from 5th ss mode so it would not down shift or spin tires at like 60-to 100 a few times driving away from my house.When i was on the way back i did many wot runs from a dead stop and it shifted every time.
i was to to do the 5th gear wot runs and it would help the pcm reconize where wot is.
i don't know what helped the 5th gear runs or disconect the sensor but i know I'm kinda happy.

 

Went for a ride today and it was doing that shit again.
also when spraying 3rd to 4th i felt it slip a bit before shifting.

i got less than 2 hours in the removal and all i have left is the mounts, harness/ grounds and hood.
No sense of trying to spend days trying to figure what's going on anymore , just going to swap that bitch and pray.
while under the car the trans looks like it is leaking between the case.

 

leaking engine oil or trans fluid?
common problem is the rear main seal

 

Trans fluid.
i think the drivers axle seal was leaking.

I got everything ready to pull but. the guy that was going to let me use the lift hasnt answered his phone.

 

had that problem. make sure when u put the new seal in, not to push it in too far or it will leak right away, then u have to do it all over again

 

Putting a differnt trans in for now.
And putting in a 3000 stall to see what kind of foot brake stall i can get out of it.
I should be able to get much better 60ft times.
stock converter i can get 2200rpms before it will over power the brakes.

how's the turbo doing? Last i heard of it you were just putting it in and was melting something.
but, I can't remember exactly.

 

Got some work in today.
converter in,and engine and other trans fully mated.
ill get it drop in today and finish up tomorrow.
got some flu and everytime i tighten a bolt my head feels like its going pop.

 

nice.
turbo is fine. that was over two years ago when i melted the harness. havent had a problem since then, but not i got a rev issue and its too cold to work on my car

 

I hope this final tweak resolves your issue. Best of luck

 

Ive found some videos of this converter in action where it shows it flashing 3500+rpms.

@3500rpms thats going to make my car run.
Going to get this thing together after lunch.
I can already smell the smokey burnouts.

 

Didn't get it finished up but I'm close.
I got wheels,batt,hood and fluids left to do.
Tomorrow will be the day.

 

Car is shifting.
I haven't really tried to whale on the car with the nitrous yet but, It never missed a shift on the motor.
Shifts were clearly sooner in the rpms thats for sure

Time to chill for a day then type s ecu and another try at the 90mm tb will be happening.

 

 

Just tried foot breaking the new converter and i was able to get about 2900 out of it.
thats 700 rpms over the 2200 i could get out of stock.i wonder how much quicker that will make my 60ft times

 

Go find out!

 

O bet your ass if this thing goes threw the gears while spraying ill be there sunday
with big hopes the converter does what it should.

 

Type s ecu and 90mm tb back in.
holy sh!t.
got some riding in today.
the car is fast without the nitrous.
the car is lazy under 2k and will not even move till 1200rpms but hitting the gas the conveter makes the car quicker for sure.
wot down shifts spike high and the car pulls like i was spraying.
the car will defintly leave harder too foot braking that thing to 3000.

I will be starting runs tomorrow all motor and then the spray.

 

YES! Grats, perseverance pays off

 

Put another seat in the car and picked up the wife.She has not been in the car since i started draging with it.
She dont like me breaking loose at 50mph and having the car pull left to right barely keeping control.

i tryied nitrous from 2-3 and it wont shift on the spray.
just accepting there is just to much balls going threw the trans or because its just blowing the tires off.
today i launched the car and blazed the tires on motor 1-2-3 and sprayed 3. And i must have been spinning over 80mph.
kinda scary.only let off because it was a little too much.

 

I might be getting a dyno soon.
I found someone with a dyno jet right in my town. He said his printer is down but call him nect week.
Is dynojets good ones to use?
What gear should i use?
He said 50 for 2 pulls.Hows that ?

 

Dynojets imo are the most popular and common dynos to come across the import scene. I used a dynojet for my first tune and dyno pulls. The dynopak will result in slightly higher whp figures because they pull the tires off thus resulting in less rotational mass to account for. The mustang dyno puts out the fewest whp figures but I do not recall why that was. The dynojet will consist of 2 different weight rollers that can be used. One is more accurate for high HP cars while the lighter of the rollers will be more accurate for the less powered cars. As for which of the 2 rollers the shop uses for their dynojet, will be shop specific.

$50 for 2 pulls is a fair price. I've paid $75 for 3 pulls in the past.

Use the gear that's closest to a 1:1 ratio. I'd like to believe its 4th gear in the auto with 5th being the overdrive gear. Manual, its 5th gear thats closest to 1:1 ratio.

 

don't people (2nd gen's) dyno in 4th normally? (6speeds that is)

 

I originally thought so as well back when I thought 5th gear was also an overdrive gear. Here are the specs to the gear ratios for Type S models and CLP.


Automatic clp Automatic cls Manual cls
1st gear 2.563 2.563 3.933
2nd gear 1.552 1.551 2.478
3rd gear 1.021 1.021 1.700
4th gear 0.653 0.653 1.250
5th gear 0.470 0.470 0.976
6th gear - - 0.771
Reverse 1.846 1.846 4.008
Final Ratio 4.428 4.428 3.286


From the looks of it, it seems autos should do the pulls in 3rd gear. Can anyone else chime in on this?

 

Thanks for the info.

Which wheels and tires do you think would get me higher hp/tq numbers.

215/40/18 and 18x7.5 24.5" dia. 43lbs each
or
26x9 Slicks and 15x8 26.3" dia 19lbs each

 

Even though the slicks result in a slightly larger diameter than the 18's, the difference in weight is substantial. I would use the 15's on the dyno. (typically the larger diameter wheel would result in lesser performance because of the increase in gearing ratio caused by the larger diameter wheel, the opposite effect would result in using a smaller diameter wheel)

Your 15's with the slicks, are they weighing in at 19lbs WITH tires?

Here is a link with dyno results comparing stock wheels to larger and smaller wheels + weight differences.

http://www.motordyneusa.com/index.ph...=72&view=topic

 

My bad thats my rears weight.
front slicks and 15's weigh 33lbs each.
ill check that link out.

 

I'm sorry. not sure if the cls has a governor or not.. but on my accord I do and no way.inhell.im.doing 5th.gear pulls. all my dyno pulls are in 4th gear. automatic 7th gens I.seen.done.in.3rd. most cars that ive notice usually dyno in 3rd(5 speed/auto) or 4th(6 speed or high hp 5 speed)

 

Agreed. Looking at the gear ratios provided, no way I'd do a pull in 4th gear in an Auto as well. 3rd gear it is.

 

So 3rd gear for auto and 4th for 6 speed?

I remember when I had an auto cl how awful 4th gear was trying to pass on highway. With the 6 speed and weight loss I can pass anyone easily on highway.

 

The parts started to show up to put the auto transmissions to bed.

M/T ecu,ignition,key set.


Rear mount and braket.

 

your car will be even faster now (provided you can get a good launch) between the different gearing and the less drivetrain loss and the hundred + lbs less weight than the auto you will really notice it. That and the LSD

 

Uh what happened to the last 2 weeks of your thread RP?

 

It's way lighter.I could carry it down the street where the auto transmissions I could lift them and take them off the tail gate of a truck but not go too far with it.

I hoping for all those gains. I pulled 1.81 60ft with the one legger auto only launching at 2200rpms.
And did someone say LSD ?

 

Did it disapear or because I went from wanting a dyno to a swap ?

 

What else besides axle seals should i replace on the trans before installing it ?
The rubber the fork goes threw looks like it should be replaced.
Should I change the front seal,bearing and fork?

 

Testing out one of my new christmas presents.
Now I got a toy when I get back to the track.


http://s899.photobucket.com/user/acu...212bf.mp4.html