Thanks ,but it's not staying very long.

Just went out and made 2 nitrous pulls from a dead stop and it shifted 3rd no problem both times.
It has to be the tps

The only thing is it seams like I lost atleast 50hp.

So I wll be going back to the other manifold and try to tune in the infinity tps to the specs the oem one is see if that helps.

Having a iacv is great I'll tell you that though.
If the swap works maybe I should install one.

 

So I set the tps right on to the oem one and pulled out the driveway with almost neck snapping throttle response and was like whoa and gears shifted mint.

Then I went WOT on motor and it shifted to 3rd but right after I was getting a high idle. I pumped the gas and knocked it down.
Tried wot run on nitrous and it would not come out of 2nd again.
Pulled back into the drive way with high idle and tps settings were a little differnt again.

Now looking at the throttle blade to where the tps should be the blade is over turning wot.
by looking at the blade to where it should be the wot would be like 3.6v where oem was 4.3.


Is their any chance that the infinity senor gives its voltage slower or faster than the honda one ?
I'm not the wiring guy so I don't know how to word it correctly.

I know one thing though I'm making a iacv today to cure that high idle crap first.
Started it.

 

YUNGONE

your electric guy,help me out.

with both tps set by voltage the resistance is showing.

OEM 0.84 closed 5.14 WOT

Infinity 0.68 closed 1.43 at its peak then it starts going down to 0.64

This is using 20k setting.

 

So even though the shown resistance figures above are what the sensors read, they still smoothly sweep voltage from CT all the way to WOT?

Looks to me like the Q45 TPS doesn't match the j32's resistance values therefore the sweep voltages would be much different.

What year Q45 TPS sensor is this btw?

 

They both sweep smooth but the q45 tps hits a peak then goes back down .
the q45 is a 91

Should I try the tps at the q45 peak or no?

I just started modifying my spare 90mm throttle body for the oem tps.

 

Can you tell me what color wire (on the j32 harness) you have going to the Q45 in relation to pin location? Did you have to repin any wires on the connector when you swapped to the Q45 TPS from stock TPS or did you just keep the original pin configuration?

 

Q45----- OEM

RED----- Green/Yellow

Black ----- Yellow/Blue

White----- Red


I spent a lot of time with my spare 90mm TB today.

I cut the shaft down grinded a spot on the end to fit the key. Went to tap it,tap snapped off inside. Then had to redo another hole offset with barely any room but it worked out. Then I had to grind the key all around to fit the TB. Then I got the mount pad to the correct height so the tps would fit the key.
I got all the parts ready to swap to my TB on the car it just was raining so I'll get it on tomorrow.

Only thing i will have to do is drill and tap 2 holes for the tps on the mount pad.Maybe... I have 2 sets of holes already, mabye I'll get lucky

 

Got the tps sensor on and set.
First time ever with this TB the tps voltage returns exactly to where I set it everytime.
I just got to redo the wiring

Resetting the ecu now. I'm home with my son so I can't get out to do some pulls yet but It's looking great as of now.

I really hope this cures the 3rd shift WOT on the nitrous.

 

Now with this fixed throttle response is so quick.
But up to temp the idle gets high and pulses and showing a icav code.
Guess I need to finsh that up or something.

I can't win, It never showed a icav code before with just leaving it plugged in.

 

I did not have to finsih the icav today.
The throttle blade was not centered and was not closing all the way.
I changed the throttle shaft out without removing the other TB to try to make work quicker but,working the the problem ended up taking more time.

No icav and basically got a perfect idle.
Did a little burnout out front and it dropped right back to idle speed.
When the wife gets home I can get some spray time in and hopefully I'm in business.
because as much time I have into F'n with dam tps's I'm ready to take a hammer to everyone in sight.

Lining up new parts everyday with hopes I get this sorted out. It would be better to take funds for new mods instead of fixxing broken stuff.

 

Not to many places to get my rip on but, it shifted to 3rd on the spray gate shifting and ss mode.
Im pretty sure we can end this with a

 

Wow, um....damn Rich....wait for me man! lol.

I suppose you got somewhere on it today then. Hrad to see what TPS you have installed but judging by the connector used and the xxx/yellow wire on top, you reinstalled the stock j32 sensor back on. I was reading on the Q45 tps sensor and its has some sort of internal switch integrated into it that could be interefering with the project here. Not to mention, the resistance readings you were getting from it does not coincide with the stock j32 tps funtionality but that could be just because the sensor is bad.

One thing i'd like to foremention now is not all 5V reference based tps sensors are equal...even if they are ground stable as our factory tps sensors are. Some ECM's can require different resistances internally of the tps due to it having a higher/lower amperage to the 5V feed that gives the signal return back to the ECM itself. Im assuming youve had the Q45 tps functioing properly as youve had it installed for a while now but heres my best suggestion:
Use the stock j32 sensor and modify the TB shaft to work with it if possible. This way, any variance of the sensor is removed from the possibility of the problem that ever becomes or continues to be.

Btw, Ive saved $18.45 for the "dyno of RichardParker's J37" fund.

 

I'm so done trying to get the q45 tps working.
I thought I've had the q45 sensor working at one time but,it seamed like I've been adjusting it all the time since day one to try to cure throttle response and or fuel cut symptoms.
I've even bought 2 q45 sensors.

Also when using the q45 the trans was holding 2nd a little longer sometimes during normal driving but now with the oem tps that is gone now too.

Next time I get to the track will be the real test.

I'll get a dyno one day. The dyno I know is too far for me, If I find one closer I'll get one done.

They're are calculators to judge hp by weight and times. Although I don't think they are too accurate since they're setup up for rwd numbers.

 

are you going to drill the TB for vacuum lines for the iacv?

do you think it matters hoe big the hole is?

 

Hose size really wont matter as I will make a restricter plate for the iacv.

I made one before for the stock TB because of the increased vaccume of the 3.7
I still have it so I will start with that and see how it goes.
I made it out of a store card.



I already made a barb in front of the TB blade before I just need to make one behind the blade.
Although I'm curious how close to the back side of the blade I need the other line or does it even matter because I have another barb on the top of the manifold neck already too.
And If I don't have to drill and tap another hole the manifold would not have to come off again.

 

I'm going to use the map sensor hole which is after the blade but its pretty small. Does the hole before the blade have to be right before or can you put it in the intake? How hard is it to tap a hole?

 

Not too hard as long as you keep everything straight.
Just need a tap for the size you want then get the drill bit for it.
Sometimes they come as a pair or you can by whole sets.

Since you were talking about the iacv I decided to start on it.
I just need to get the rubber seal off the oem TB then I can make a new restrictor. And make a mount hole off the tab so I can mount it to one of my TB bolts.

 

where are you grabbing the barbs? depot?

 

You can get the fancy chrome one's at autozone. I think they're spectre or something, Or you can get the brass one's at lowes.

 

There's a local Home Depot (not all have this) that carries flared brass with standard threads that you can use ss braided hose from the plumbing dept to run vacuum/pcv related lines with. I normally use 90's that can thread directly into whatever component I'm trying to run to to keep it as discreet and clean as possible and because the ss lines have flared ends, they seal perfectly without Teflon tape or thread seal paste. The ss lines are generally located near the toilet/sink parts and supplies. Not real sure of the heat rating so you may want to keep them away from exhaust related components.

Btw, glad to hear you dealt with the whole TPS issue.

 

Finished iacv today.
I haven't went for a ride yet but I can't make it make a high idle in the driveway.

Who says I don't recycle.... Sunroof drain tubes for vaccume lines.

 

Lost 48lbs today.

15 x 4 Champion speed series wheels 8.7lbs each
Moroso ds2's 26x4.5x15 11lbs each

Those weigh 19.7lbs per wheel and tire.

The current rear weigh 43lbs each

 

Just went for a midnight rip to try out the new wheels.with all the mods I've done to the car id have to say the skinny rears has to be one of the most noticable.acceleration on down shifts feels like a nitrous hit just on the motor.

 

It probably has more to do with your front wheels to be honest. That's a ridiculous weight savings per wheel though......

 

That might be true if my slicks were on.my heavy street wheels were on the front. can't wait to put them on with the backs.
i feel like the backs gave the car more quickness compared to the fronts.

 

What's the backspacing on the rear wheels? They look good. Did you get matching fronts?

 

Word.

Looking good Rich.

 

not sure, the pad is maybe 5mm .i didn't get matching fronts but. maybe i do need wider fronts.

So is your avatar.

 

Courtesy of KMS if I remember correctly. I thought it was cool.

The cams I bought from you, do they have a crazy high duration or something? The reason I ask is because they are just barely larger than my RL cams (by .11mm) on the VTEC lobe and figured there had to be some reason for somebody paying to make them rather than just buying a set of used RL cams for the same increase in performance. Know anything more than what you told me already about them? I remember you saying they were Web regrinds and you even gave me specs on them too. I also thought about how the base circle was much smaller than a virgin set of cams and perhaps this was adding to the stock rocker ratio of 1:7. A virgin set of j32a3 cams has a 26mm base while these are 22.5mm base circle.

I should probably just call Web and drill them with questions instead of you, haha.

 

All i know is what i told you about them
sorry.
i do know one more thing. i bought a higher 3k stall convertor from a guy in the bm.
hope that gets me quicker

 

Nice rear rims/tires RP

 

Got a package today.

 

Nice find! What the hell was the chances of finding a higher stall converter for our application lol! How much higher is this one? It should help improve your 60ft times.

 

No joke bro. You should go play some Lotto numbers while you're in the midst of good fortune. I know that I found each one of my oem lip kit pieces (one at a time) on Craigslist for under $40 each and all from different people within about a 60 day period. Lol

Sometimes the moons just perfectly align for things to go right.

***immediately after typing this post, I dropped my iPhone and cracked the screen***

You owe me a new phone Rich. Sorry...

 

Sometimes the moons just perfectly align for things to go right.

***immediately after typing this post, I dropped my iPhone and cracked the screen***

 

Moons have been lining up for me this month.
just started working for 21.50hr from not working.and my wife got a 200 a week salery bump.money is legaly flowing.
we were comfortable before but now everything is great.

 

Words of the wise:
The more money you make, the more bills you have, and that's more money you won't have.

 

now join the 6speed crew lol
any updates ? or your going NOS crazy ? lol

 

I left the car alone for awhile because after it not getting into 3rd on the spray and started doing it without the spray i was considering a new trans.
today i went back to my clp manifold and types s throttle body.
I'm calling defeat to getting the 90mm throttle body tp s sensor to work right.
went to the track today and i was running 8.1 8.2's at 90-91 with the windows down.
I lost about 50lbs off the rear wheels but was running a smaller manifold and throttle body and still ran about as fast with the bigger manifold and throttle body. i did lose 3mph.
i need to seach out for a new manifold and tb set up now with it able to shift all gears on the spray now.

 

Richard that is awesome, did you run a Shady Side? Have you thought about the 09 tl IM with 76mm TB it seems to be a popular choice.