Should try to plan something for when the next National Acurazine meet happens.

 

Does the CL-6 LSD fit in the auto trans? If it does you should look into that. You would be able to put the power down with both wheels much better than the crappy dif in the auto

 

I'd definitely be down for a track day!

 

what measurement of the 255 tire are you having a problem with ? The inside,outside or height ?
I don't think I will fit a 275 under the fender.
It would have to stick out a touch and I would have to lift the front again I bet.

I really wish I knew if that was a option. I would be all over it.

 

I saw someone on the BM selling a modified torque converter. Not sure if you looked into that option yet. I don't know much about it though.

 

I seen it and was thinking about it.But then since I was going to do weight reduction I don't think I will yet.
When you lose weight it actually lowers the stall speed in a auto.So it would perform even less than what is posted for a stall speed.
If I do really get serious I would consider geting a higher stall the correct way. By weight,final gear,cam duration,compression.
A solid 3800rpm flash now would cause some neck snaping acceration.


Is there anything under the car that I can remove to reduce weight ?

 

Gas tank

 

Did you remove the 2 nvh dampers on the rear subframe next to the rear motor mount? They are nothing but dead weight. Maybe 5-10 lbs?

 

My wheels have a high offset of +52 so for me it is the inner clearance from the suspension. I am at 2-3mm clearance now(tire to knuckle). If my wheels were much lower offset the tires would stick out of the fenders tho even with negative camber.

Inaccurate's, vill0's, and my threads pretty much cover everything weight wise.

Under the car is just basically evap canister, exhaust & heat shields, and those 2 dampers on subframe.

Race cars would remove the seam sealer and the under-coating. That would be silly on a street car tho.

I would be more concerned with the weight higher up and further out from the center of gravity.

 

Not a biggie but ,removed the wiper motor and linkage today.

 

If your removing all those things you might as well go all out with it lol. Take all the heating and a/c components out, f+r bumper supports, power steering, radio and speakers, etc haha. Your turning it into a track car, since it won't have the luxuries anymore!!

 

I have no rear bumper now and a half weight front bumper wich will be removed next time I go to the track to save another 10lbs or so.
All radio stuff is gone. I will most likely be 30lbs lighter than the last time I went.
I want heat for the winter, AC stuff under the hood is off.
I don't want to make it a full race car yet and I want to reasonably be able to do a quick re install when It come time to needing to get it inspected.

Not actactly sure how much I can get away with having removed to get it inspected.
I will most likely have to have wipers,horn, e brake,and all lights as far as I know.

 

Is this your daily driver?

 

I have 3 cars.
I drove the car today,maybe 5 mile round trip but,since I've been going to the track the only daily driven miles have been back and forth to the track and to get gas and air up tires.
Other than that it just sits for a whenever car.
I've had the car for almost 5years and I've only put 27k I think.
before I would consider it for a full race car I would need another car.
I have a crappy 4door,a xtra cab b3000 and the acura.
I have a wife and a son. So it's either the crappy car or the truck with my son in the back of the truck in the jump seat.
So me even stripping out the acura is kinda selfish.
But,I need to have a good time with my toy.
If I got another 4door I will make it a full race car.

 

so you want heat for winter, but you removed your wiper motor

 

^weird
The wipers don't keep me warm.

 

No, they help you see...

 

i see.
but,here in nc it might snow once a year so no road grime needing to be cleaned or brushed away.and it does not rain very often durring the winter here either.
in the summer it does though.me and my girl make fun of the weather guy because in nc summers they say there's a chance of a pop up thunder storm like everyday.
In mass I never heard of the pop up rain storm bs.
Either way as of now I basically only drive it on clear days to the track.
If I get caught in the rain I guess I will have to do the pet detective style,driving hanging my head out of the window or park it.

Going to the track again sunday looking for a 8.4 86-87mph on street tires

This time I go I'm going to park the car as soon as I get there.
Then run once it's cool.
Everytime I go ,I drive to the track and get right into line and start hot lapping witch is why my et's are all over the place after 2-3 runs.


ordered another TB today just so I could get another flange to use for a TB spacer.
Got some vertical style innovative mounts on the way .
Just talked to and just filed out a order form to send my headers to swain tech.
Thinking about buying some new nitrous stuff too.
such as a bottle heater,a remote opener,plugs,nozzle,weld in bung for the cai.

Anyone try the gold dei reflective tape on the CAI ?

 

Just bring a cooler with bags of ice in it and when its parked put one on top of the intake manifold, it will help. You couldnt sit long enough to wait till its cool as the engine will retain normal operating temps for up to 8 hours

 

 

I've seen some pictures of people with ice on the intake.
Do people really do that at the track ? I never seen anybody actually doing it.

 

Just ripped out the foam deadener in the front going up under the dash.
That stuff is pretty heavy. must be another few lbs
I need to go get the car weighed,it's got to be getting pretty dam light.

Is removing the brake dust shields a good place to lose or don't waste the time ?

 

putting ice on the intake manifold will cool it down fast between close runs. the brake dust shields dont weight anything. better off not taking ur phone in ur car, that weights more then them

 

Getting ready for the track.
About 30lbs lighter than my 8.5

think I can I do a 8.4 ?

 

Woopsie.
No track today.

Jumped in the car to go to the track and have a blinking d5 and cel.
So I know better not to go.
Ran codes and came up with low pressure linear solinoid A.
Needless to say I replaced every sensor after replacing the linear's.
Nothing.
Started looking for broken lead wires.
got all the way back to the ecu and one plug was un plugged.
Track closes at 5 and now it's 4:30 and I got it right but,very disipointed.
I must have pulled it out by accident when removing the foam fire wall deadener.

 

Go tmr.

 

Only test n tune is fri nights witch is too cold if they are still running that night ,and sunday 1-5.
Next sunday unfortunately.
On the bright side it gives me a chance to get more weight off.
weight removal is getting scarce. I'm going to have to spend money now if I want to get much lighter.
was just pricing aluminum pipe for the exhaust.

 

There are reasons why you typically don't see aluminum exhausts. On the engine side it would get too hot and make the aluminum malleable. On the cold end you would have corrosion.

Aluminum alloys are about 1/2 weight of steel but only 1/3 the strength/stiffness. A thin walled stainless steel exhaust could end up being lighter than an aluminum exhaust with enough thickness to be strong enough.

With aluminum you may be stuck using additional hangers, brackets, or supports to keep the weaker aluminum tube in place and in one piece.

Stainless steel is the way to go, unless you want to spend a fortune on titanium. Go with a 18-20 Ga stainless steel. It stays strong at high temps, gets most of the excess weight out, resists corrosion, is readily available in mandrel-bent fittings, and is easier to work/weld with.

You can save money using T304 stainless steel for the rearward section since it runs cooler than the front. T304 is ok for the entire system if you use a heavier gauge, but this has a weight penalty.

If cost is no option then light gauge inconel stainless steel is the way to go. This is what F1 teams use.

My tanabe cat-back uses SUS304 stainless steel. You want mandrel bends. MY tanabe piping is only 1.2mm thick. The exhaust hangers are hollow and the flanges are pressed for more weight reduction. Too bad the 2 muffler setup kind of defeats the weight saving purposes, but still a good chunk lighter than stock

 

Oops, for some reason I though yesterday was Saturday. Ugh.

Nice post Brian.

 

I'll take a look at the differnt pipes you are talking about.
I was looking at a 14 gauge alminum pipe from my resonator back.
Maybe 3 feet in front of the Y in the rear.
Making one single pipe to the rear.
14 gauge aluminum to thin ? I think the wall is .083

 

Got some innovative 75a mounts.

 

Headers are on their way to swaintech for some White Lighting .
At the least, more consistint et's.
Since I got slips and go to the track we will see if i actually gain power from the lower temps.
I bet I will see quicker times.

Anyone else use swain and seen any gains from the lower temps ?

 

If you can maintain the same 60' in the lower temps, than your ET should be better. The barometric pressure plays a big role as well. > 30 is better. Your trap should increase regardless of traction given the lower temps. I went from a 104 to a 106.6 with a better DA. Granted it was 2 different tracks.

 

What cooling mod did you do to increase your trap speed ?

I am refering to lower under hood temps.
swain claims 35-55% lower under hood temps.
Even at 35% lower there should be measurable gains in power. Well, actually it will be reducing power loss.

I have a temp gauge and a scanner where I will do a couple of temp tests before and after's.
I'm curious to what the actual temps will be and how it will have it's effect down the strip.
Just trying to pull some more HP without going back into the motor yet.

 

Got another 5lbs worth of weight out today.
Now it's sprinkling out.
Track opens at 1 and roads are wet already. The track might not even open now.

I got the car down to 35lbs lighter than the last time I went ,that's about all I can say unless I get to the track.

 

just called and thier rain out and next sunday closed too.
Looks like december 30th at the soonest

 

Sorry to hear that.

I was talking about the outside temperature, not under hood temps. I've done no cooling mods.

 

Ordered some DEI gold heat reflective tape for the intake tube.
And if I have enough I will be doing the underside of the manifold too.

With the headers getting coated and the heat reflective tape I'm going to definitly have a cooler intake charge.

I've been seeing it said for every 10 degrees you drop the iat's you gain 1% power gain.

I also seen someone with a 300z v6 that was claiming a 40 degree drop from only wraping intake tube and wraping the under side of the manifold,with some coated headers the temp would crazy low.
I would be happy as hell if I only seen 4% increase in power from doing both.But if those number are correct from the 300z from only the heat tape then I would have even more than a 4% gain when combining with the headers.
I would bet twice the numbers,and that would gain some some serious power from cooling.
I'm guessing based on info reading around but, 15-20+ hp is going to be a believable gain.

 

Decided to start getting into the dei taping.
I forgot how much of a pain in the ass it was removing the lower runners.
I guess I got to get some bolts in there and get rid of the studs and nuts.
I changed them out on my old motor but,not this one.
Finally got them out after wrestling them for 20 min.

Lets see how far the 2"x30' roll goes.
Pics up later tonight.

I'm wondering now after pulling the lower runners out if one of the sources of heating the manifold is coming from the water pipe.
I wonder what I could use to insulate the pipe without having to remove it.
might have to be a future mod if I can't come up with something.

And I also think i'm going to use some of the dei tape on the piece of the oil pan where the j pipe passes by when I get my headers back.

 

This is as far as i got.
Got to get some more.