I don't know what I was thinking saying I needed to add fuel.At 10.8 it was running rich.

Since I finished up in the dark I forgot to plug the map sensor in.
today I re plugged it and afr was in normal range and the bad ass sound,sounds stock again,even less powerful at idle.Probably need somesort of management now to throw a bunch of fuel at it.
I went for a easy ride and the car drove no different from what I could tell,no WOT yet either I want the cams to settle in first. I'm going to get some more driving in today. Change the oil to get rid of the nasty moly paste residue thats in the oil from installing the cams,and do a drain and refill for the trans.

Rush,
How is the motor dealing with the boost ?

 

Came back from getting fluids and now I'm wondering if the trans will be failing soon.
Pulled the stick and nothing on it.
Went under the car to remove the drain and there was tranny fluid all under the drivers side. I did not pin point it yet but hopefully it just a axle seal.
Also after removing the drain screw it had about 1/16 of metal all over it with a thick chunk on the end.
only about a quart came out on the drain.
I thought I smelled tranny on my ride today.
Going to fill the trans,search for the leak and possibly start a trans savings.
What should I expect beating it

 

Did some ripping with the car and it's liking the fuel at 68psi WOT.
The car definitly is needing some bigger injectors and a tune.
This injectors are being pushed beyond what they can dish out.

I can't really say it's faster yet because it's fast,and it was fast before.
slips will tell.

 

use the emanage ultimate if your staying auto

 

Can't get the exhaust sound to show up from the tail pipes but, here's 1st and 2nd rubber with the web cams.
VIDEO Sounds pretty strong to me.

Whatcha think
http://s899.photobucket.com/user/acu...126d8.mp4.html

 

^ Gonna watch it now. If your trans is gone, swap a 6spd You will put down another ~5% power I'd imagine and have better gearing. Did you get a custom grind from Web Cam or did you go with the Bisi grind?

 

They were a custom grind threw web.
I think the car will spin 3rd now I just let off.

 

^ What's your compression ratio? Stock? I was just reading about the relationship between cams and compression, and if your compression drops considerably with the cams in, that means you are "over-cammed." Basically, there is too much overlap. If you upped your static compression (without the cams), you would be fine with an aggressive cam. But if you're at the stock 10:1, you may have an overly aggressive profile. What are the cam specs? Below is a good read.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

 

Interesting, I guess I will check what kind of compression numbers I have now and I will read what's in the link too.
Some people say the 3.7 lower end is to give 11:1 but I'm not sure how true it is.
Higher compression would be good for these cams as the specs are so post to be more aggressive than bisi level 2's.

 

^ That all depends on what pistons you used. RL gives 11:1, and I'm not sure what the other options are. I had no idea that cams decreased static compression and increased dynamic compression. To be honest, I didn't even know there was both 'static' and 'dynamic' compression. It was definitely an interesting read, and there are some more good articles/posts like that.

If they are more aggressive than the Stage 2s, your cams may be too 'hot' (aggressive). Do you have the exact specs? If they are too aggressive, you will still gain power up top, but you will most likely lose a good amount of low end due to the significant overlap. Again, I'm just speculating here based on what I read and that you claimed to have low compression after the cam install. But your car with cams/tune will be an absolute monster. I wouldn't be surprised to see 91-92mph traps in the 1/8th and 112-113 in the 1/4....that's JB4 335/lightly modded 5.0 territory.

 

Cams specs are
.434 .432 lift .245 .232 dur @ 50
I thought cams had 460 lifts but after calling web with the cam numbers they stamped on them they gave me the specs I posted.
raining this weekend so no track time AGAIN

 

Hey remember you ask my D/A of the day I ran 88.2 before ?
it said 92.
what does that mean ?




I haven't check compression since I installed the web cams.
before the motored fired it only had 150psi and cams would not start.
After the motor was broken in it had 210psi,so then I decided to give them another try but I did not check compression yet since they have been in

o yea and I used 90mm mdx pistons

 

92 feet? If so, it just means the conditions were as if you were 92 feet above sea level. You want to get as close to (or under) sea level as you can for the best conditions.

And yea, the lift is definitely more aggressive than the Stage 2, but the duration is a bit less aggressive. Hopefully when you check the compression it will be good this time around. I'm not sure if/how the MDX pistons change the compression.

 

Sunroof out ,34lb loss.
1/8 thick tinted plexi about to replace it

 

very nice

 

It is so far.
Just got done put brackets under the whole front and side edges.
Need to figure out something for the rear side.
at 1/8" this is taking perfect shape of the roof.

It's getting dark so I called it quits and covered over the car with a tarp and duct tape because it's so post to rain saturday and sunday. I don't want to get caught slipping.

I bought stainless hardware to hold the plug on maybe I should paint it black.

Again I'm amazed how great it's comming so far for only $50 bucks spent.
25 for the plug and 25 for hardware.
I was prepared to spend hundreds for the delete.
I will have to spend a little more but not much.

 

Buy yourself some stock S2000 injectors if you're maxed out on your stock ones. They are a direct drop in replacement.

 

I need to get some cams.

 

Does it matter if they are from the AP1 or AP2 motor?

 

I Think It Does. I Can't Remember Which Though.

 

AP1's

 

Werd.

AP2's have the new style injector design like the RDX.

I found something pretty unique the other day while shopping for injectors on the Accord. They sell caps that basically adapt or convert the top or bottom of a fuel injector to another size. As long as you know the height, you could more than likely make other, cheaper high flow injectors work with your J motor. Smart.

Sorry, dont remember where...

 

Not weird,
RDX injectors don't fit without trimming tops and plugs for the a2's.

"Again with the confusing info ?"


They work in j35's and possibly j32a3 but, not j32a2's.
I would assume you would know that since you have multiple motors.
some people are blind I guess the injectors have different tops and longer plugs which you can not even confuse.

j32a2

AP1


rdx

AP2


If you don't know what your talking about don't say anything FOOL.
Go have someone work on your car that does

I've seen the caps but would not choose to go that route as their would be a extra place to have leaks.

 

u need these for the rdx injectors if u dont want to modify the injector or rail. still not sure
http://www.xenocron.com/rdx-injector...ack-p-813.html

 

Just about all brackets in.
Ran out of 2 on the back row so back to lowes.
I just need to drill the plexi and get some rubber washers for shims to get it to look flush and to protect the plexi from cracking with body flex.

It's getting there.

 

That is a lot of mounting tabs. I am assuming the plexi is not curved like the roof. Interested to see final results.

 

Richard, you're extremely confused about my response and need to slow down before you make yourself look real illiterate here.

I'll break it down for ya here elementary style so you can catch back up with us:

You: AP1s fit j32a2

Me: I agree BUT the AP2s are a new style injector like the RDX meaning they're are different.

You: AP2s aren't the same as the AP1s. You're are an idiot. You don't know anything. I'm misconceptializing here and hating on you all at once.

See now?

Anytime there Rich!

 

^ I got a idea.
Keep your grand wisdom in your own thread.
I don't wan't people getting retarded in mine.



Didn't have time to finish up but,
Pic with panel just sitting with no shimming.

Ran out of light. Pic with hardware on loosely till the morning when I can see.
Decided not to do the tappered hardware for sensible reasons,now it's going to look like a race roof,except well tailored.
I decided to use rubber washers on the inside and the out since I didn't want to go threw all this to have it crack during install.


Finish product tomorrow.

All hardware and panel weighs 4lbs.

 

Why did you go with plexiglass over lexan?

 

^ That was part of a selection that was available.
I was trying to get it to match my tint and was planning of vht but,no painting seams like a win.


Finished.

 

Wow, that looks pretty clean, nice work

 

I think it looks great. What did you use to screw the tabs into the roof? This seems like the cheapest most effective weight reduction mod. And I for one never even use the sunroof.

 

I Agree, Looks Clean!

So What's The Weight Reduction?

 

little screws.
It was a very tedious job.
took me a good 30 minutes on those to becarful not to drill the outer skin.

Thanks,
30lbs without removing the drain tubes and wiring.
Got to leave those because the car will see stock again someday and I'm not getting into fishing the tubes back in.

 

looks clean.

 

Looks good. Where did you buy the plexi and who cut it to shape?

 

You want all the secrets.
Your not ready Danial son.
J/k dude.

You can have a auto glass shop do it. I would say go to one where they do high volume so the guys are experienced.
I went to Carolina auto glass. They had the plexi there for me to choose from and the guy was familer with what I wanted done so that was a plus.

He was also glad I came with the whole sunroof out. He said another guy had his done and did not take his out and it was a pain for him to get it done as quick as mine.
I was in and out in 45min.

Definitely worth it,just very time consuming install to make it look nice.

 

Spent about 1.5hrs cleaning the outside of the car,first time in months.
I will have to clean it up another time to get it perfect because the last time I cleaned it was before winter.
I also re installed my 90mm throttle body spacer today.
My wot AFR dropped to low 14's high 13's from mid 13's high 12's.
I upped the fuel pressure again 2psi and it's back where I had it before.
It seams like the spacer is adding noticeable power but, my fuel pressure is now at 70psi.
Not sure how much fuel pressure the lines can handle before expanding to a leak.
Anyone know how much fuel pressure they can take ,I see no markings on them?

Also,
Got a sitter for my son tonight so I can hit tonights test n tune at 6.
Hopefully I can see some faster times it should be atleast 50 degrees.

 

dirt Removed, 2lbs.

 

I wish,I would scrub it everyday.