never had a dyno yet.
I can say the engine feels as strong my fully bolted clp motor with 100 shot,and that was before my weight reductions.
hate to guess because of people chopping people down but, I would have to say over 300.
If I can find a shop close I will get one done. I'm at the point were I am seaching for 1-2hp here and there.

I've been wonding lately if there is any power to be had in upgrading to custom high voltage coils.

 

if I Ever Do My Exhaust I'll Be Doing A 3 Inch After The Cat. I Have To Keep My Cat To Pass Emissions. Not Ideal But I'm Sure It Will Help.

 

this section was removed and it weighed 19.5lbs


And this section was added 4.5 feet of 2.5" pipe not sure of the weight yet.
I need to check wall thickness before I can say how much weight was lost but,I'm sure I lost something.
definitly getting harder exhaust snaps between 1st and 2nd shifts.

 

I'd be very surprised if you saw anything under 300whp. You are consistently trapping 87-88mph in the 1/8th. Have you ever weighed your car? CL-s is usually what, 3400lbs? You have to be near or under 3000 at this point. I'd guess you are making ~310/290 through the auto. I've never seen a 3.7 dyno though, so who knows.

With your mods, you need a 3" exhaust...but you already have a 2.5" so that's neither here nor there.

 

Maybe another day,like you say it's 2.5 now.

I also corrected my fuel problem with a type s cluster swap.
This was just over a 1/2 on the old cluster.
new cluster shows about 1/8.

 

Get dyno'd

There is a rule: Dyno'd already? Get that ass to the track and back it up. Went down the strip? Get that b1tch dyno'd.

 

I got a 10lbs loss from the exhaust pipe.
pipe has a .070 wall,and in the pipe calculator it says the pipe weighs 1.818 per foot.
rounding my 4.5 section to 5feet it weighs 9.09lbs.
The section removed weighed 19.5lbs so I got a solid 10lb loss.

 

I thought the ebrake was dragging at the track last time I went.
I removed the windshield wiper stuff and the hand brake after getting inspected and I could feel dragging,and one brake was squealing with moderate braking,like wanting to lock up.
Checked around the car and found a rear caliper piston is crooked.
Pad is starting to wear un evenly and the top half the of the rotor on the back side is getting contact.
It don't look like it cause damaged to the rotor yet.

Maybe that's why the car was spinning so easy at the track and my 60ft's were shitty last time.
I had the same kind of runs with slower times because of a frozen caliper and it's on the same dam wheel again.

I got a fresh set of pads here,just got to go get a caliper.

 

If your e-brake was engaged at all you would know because there would be a light or beeping noise, no? In terms of your caliper piston, not a single clue is had.

 

Not on mine because I never bothered hooking up the sensor to the handbrake.

Paint is drying on the new caliper right now.
I'm only going to add a new pad to the side that had the problem.
we'll see how it turns out.

 

That would be nice if you had this done before putting too much wear on the engine. I'm confident in that thing putting out over 300hp being that a j37a1 does 300hp before bolt-ons. You're our only hope in getting numbers bud.

As for the coil thing, I've yet to see but one person run stronger coils and these people have went to 700hp+ on stockers. Although, I'm quite sure there's a difference in the 1st and 2nd gen coils (as j32a2 vs j35a8) from the difference in price alone. The one person I seen using other coils was SlimJim in his RWD CL and he was running stock CBR coils but that could've been for other reasons...maybe not just because they has stronger spark or voltage.

IMO, trying out larger rocker rollers may be a good choice for you since you already have upgraded valve springs. Again, SlimJim did this on his and effectively changed cam lift so may be worth a shot.

Here's a pic of his engine showing the cbr coils

 

Boy do I wish cams/valvetrain were cheaper...

 

Bad proportional valve or brake line?

After fixing the right side rear caliper.
I am definitely getting dragging from the left rear.
I've went over that caliper and it seams ok. The brake line from the out side looks fine too and I don't have any leaks at the proportional valve.
It just on the edge of locking so much if I turn to the right I can hear it or if I barely touch the brakes I'm getting sqweeling like stomping the brakes.



YUNG,
I think my springs are good for like 12. something mm lift.
New rollers should not be that hard to have made.
I wonder if the rollors on my clp motor are the same size.Then I could get some meassurements and ask around.

Hotter coils should work better for any application.
It will make more complete combustion burn threw out the rpms and give better throttle response.
Just need to know input voltage and output voltage of stocks to compare to hi performance upgrades.

 

I was across the street from my girls work a few minutes ago getting a redbox movie talking to her on the phone and she said she needed to call 911 because somebody had a bad accident out front.
I looked around the corner and seen the back of a car with the front hanging in the parking lot.
Took a drive over and a 2gen tl was totalled.
It jump a curb in a 45 zone marks started 8-10 feet away and he started into her parking lot down inbankment and smashed 2 other cars,if the cars were not their in would've probably went into her work..
Took a pic from her phone because it zooms in pretty good and I did not want to look like a ass taking pics right after the dude was still just shaking off the hit .
I won't be able to check it out till tonight. I just thought it was a interesting site since it's my cars cousin(2nd gen tl)

I don't see how that could've even happen.I drive the road everyday.

 

Whoopsie

the curb he jumped was further than you can see to the left in the picture.
Think he totalled the suv too.
The police had someone pulled over where I was at the walgreens across the street and didn't even know it happend

 

About to get a little more serious about hooking up and going faster at the track. I just ordered 2 rota slip streams 15x8 +20's and 2 26x9x15 hoosier slicks.,and a new nitrous nozzle and bung. After ,checking weights with distributors. My old wheels weigh 22.5lbs and tires weigh 25.4lbs.the new wheels weigh 14.7lbs and new tires weigh 18lbs. Old setup 47.9 new setup 32.7. I will see a amazing 15.2lbs loss per front wheel.can't wait for my new toys to get here.

 

Will the 15s clear the stock brakes?

 

Not absolutely sure. May have to use spacers and or grind the calipers.
The accord's brake setup is smaller and "might work" if need be too ,I already have New rotors and pads for that if I need to go that route .
One way or another I'll make it fit.

I think Fox has 15" welds for his track wheels.
But I seen another person that had different weld 15" that would not fit over the accord brake setup even at +0.
I guess It has to do mostly with the wheels barrel size.
I got my fingers crossed for a easy install ,but I'm prepared for the hard install unfortunally.
Cross your fingers for me too.

 

Awesome. Can't wait to see results. I was going to say 26" may be too big, but at your power level it will be perfect. You should hook nicely with those. Your trans is completely stock? If so, you may be looking at a 6spd soon with continuous launches on slicks with the AT lol.

 

^ ya I can't wait.
If it bogs too much from the 26" then I will run a little nitrous the next time after.
.
I seen this video of the guy I beat when I said the mustang with the pillar full of gauges in the post above.The red and black mustang.
And his wording in his video description is how he ran down the other 500hp stang.
And I dusted him. I seen my car in the end of his video waiting,it was the same day.
I just think it's funny how he's bragging about running down a 500hp car and I ran him.

I did get ran down by a gt 500 that day though hopefully the slicks I got comming will make me more competetive with the faster guys

 

I'd happily contribute $50 to a dyno run Rich! And I'm sure Sonnick would too, right bud?

I seen this guy come in the other day to my shop for me to install and wire up a performance inline fuel pump on his Mustang and when I had it in the air it immediately made me think of you and your car. This dude was totally into the whole weight cut thing. In fact, he was so far into it that that he went as far as drilling 1/2" holes throughout the underside of the car on non-stressed areas of metal. Lol, I meant to take pictures of it but ended up getting caught up in conversation that it slipped my mind.

 

Hey Rich, have you ever thought of doing the UCM (Ultimate Cooling Mod?) That would drastically reduce heat soak on the engine and help your ET/trap.

26" slicks will be perfect, I don't think you will bog at all. I was just thinking, I may need bigger DRs since I'm running a 25" setup (225/50/16). I also was doing my burnouts in the water pit and probably dragging water on the line, so I'll see what happens next time out before making any judgments. I will need new DRs by the fall though.

 

No burnouts in the water box.
Get your tires out of the water before any heating.Maybe 4-6 feet out of the water would be good.
Do you have a thread somewhere so I could follow along with what your doing ?

 

^ Lol. I have a thread over on v6pee called "V6 6MT .....etc dyno."

Below is my "build" thread on here. It's been a few months since I've posted in it. Maybe I will update it, although I don't think there is anything new besides worse track times lol.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=j30a5+dyno

2.3 60fts on DRs is unacceptable. Lesson learned.

 

Wish the rims came first but,tires made it.

 

Wow another one.
this kid was 22 and did not make it. I wonder if speed was a factor and if he was a member on here .he had yellow fogs and tinted his tail.
This shit make me want to drive slower.
http://www.wcnc.com/news/local/One-k...ry=y&img=0&c=y

 

That's crazy, it looks like it had black housing headlights and either exhaust or exhaust tips. Can't tell if it had anything else because the car is so messed up.

 

They fit,just barely but they do fit.
I got a 2 for 1 too.
15 inch wheels = Big brakes

 

tried a couple launches out front with 20psi in the tires .first launch from a stop I would get 2 chirps.
Tried 2 more time with just a single chirp each time.
Dead hooking with no tire spin where before I could spin down the whole street.
maybe I should up the tire pressure.

 

That makes me want to cage my car.

 

A proper cage will make the car much stiffer and make it handle better as well. Its a win win.

 

I just put 30psi in the tires and went for a short street ride. I could spin the crap out of the tires at 30psi.
So I guess when I go to the track I'll start at 28 and drop from there.

 

11 more pounds out today.
spare bracket,jack bracket,front frame dampener mount bracket, e brake shoes,hardware, and lines.

the e brake stuff weighed 8.5lbs,I think that would be unsprung weight loss.

 

-4.5 lbs today.

I'm going to remove the extra metal skins around the rear strut towers next.
Those should weigh around 4-5lbs each.

 

I would start at 25psi when your at the track and depending how it's hooking or not, I would work your way down. The higher you can get away with the better. It's okay to run as low as 12psi if needed. Just remember the lower you go the more resistance it's going to have and probably hurt your mph slightly. The car will feel like it's on a cloud at low psi lol.

 

^ I rechecked my air pressure with a friends gauge and my gauge was reading 2psi high. So I was trying to do the first lauches at 18psi and their was nothing but grip. I put 30psi in the tires by my gauge and actually had 28psi and would spin them no problem. He set them at 25 psi by his gauge and told me to start out their too.


Removed the passenger rear strut tower skin.
It only came out to 2.5lbs but once the deadener under it comes off it should be atleast a 4lb loss.
And I finally removed my tv wiring 1.2lbs.

So here's another 3.7lb loss for now.

 

I was gonna say, on slicks 30psi is WAY too high. I was running ~22 on my DRs, and even that's too high. I think next time I will start at 18 and work my way down to ~14 or so.

 

I want to be able to break them loose to get some kind of heat in them since I don't have a e brake,but I want them to hook as well.
Sunday will be the test n tune and it will be all about air pressure.

Drivers rear strut tower skin -3lbs

 

Start around 24-25 and work your way down. Be weary of your axles. You may have been better off leaving the E-brake in because you can preload the drivetrain that way. You can still preload on an automatic car, right? Or am I wrong?

 

I've tried. My best 60 foots have been going from brake to gas pedal.