Started on some in home porting

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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #281  
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so.... (bored )

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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 11:19 PM
  #282  
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Well fries,
I ordered another box, all T's ,AN and the barb ones ,the lines ,and a zex injector air filter and going to inject the 2nd shot threw there.
This is going to be sick.
I just got to figure out a good mounting place for both to fit and look nice.

Off the AN Y the lines I'm using are only 1 foot long each.
so they will have to be mounted close
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 11:27 PM
  #283  
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leave the original one in your current location, then put the new one on the frame rail, where the stock resonator mounts, would be very close to where the air filter would be mounted
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 01:14 PM
  #284  
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Zex box still is not here yet but,I did get a dose of parts today.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 05:53 PM
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y a new t-stat housing?
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #286  
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I dont know,just for the hell of it.
I got it for like $5 shipped.


2nd box came.
this is where they are going to go.
on either side of the battery box.
I'm going to take the battery out and use nuts and bolts going threw the inside of the box out.
Because that side rests against the side of the battery and I don't want to make a hole threw the battery

So far the Y is ran for both boxes.
I will have it done tomorrow.

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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 06:24 PM
  #287  
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u can do what i did



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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #288  
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Would it be possible to fit 2 in there and still use the wipers.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 06:42 PM
  #289  
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i believe that one of ur boxes are smaller than the other one, right? if so, than yes. just might need longer hoses that go from the unit to the intake
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 09:51 PM
  #290  
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They are the same size.
And all the wiring could'nt be in a better location for the T's off the hoses.
The 2nd shot is bringing the car to another level of whoop ass.
And the sweet thing I'm thinking about is when and if I do up the lower end I will be able to smack the motor with 2 big shots.

Everyone that builds a fast car wants it to be faster than everyones car.
Me,
It may seam stupid but,the only car that I want to run and beat would be a cls 6, and that's azine's f'ing fault.
And only because it's the better model and I kind of feel a little handicapped.
But,Im no longer handicapped and wish there was a modded cls 6 near so I could see if my car would : win,hang,or get smoked.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 09:58 PM
  #291  
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one shot will walk on a stock cls-6. but u still got that tranny problem.

not sure if u can fit 2 boxes in there. one was tight to get it. lots of room there but having to service it or do something with it will be hard and tight to work around
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 09:08 AM
  #292  
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Ill run you
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 10:27 AM
  #293  
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Ah a worthy competitor ?

I would run you for sure.
Well,since you have a 3.6 cls6 it would really tell me, "OR" you where our car stands.
I will be sure to scribble C-YA on my back window for you.


Only s$!@ talking.
You don't mind driving, you should come over my way and run that thing.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:07 AM
  #294  
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When you finish him, come look for me
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by richardparker
Ah a worthy competitor ?

I would run you for sure.
Well,since you have a 3.6 cls6 it would really tell me, "OR" you where our car stands.
I will be sure to scribble C-YA on my back window for you.


Only s$!@ talking.
You don't mind driving, you should come over my way and run that thing.
Is the C-YA for your tranny after your engine burps it out?

Originally Posted by SPoolinspOON
When you finish him, come look for me
Now why would he want to race an even faster car after I beat him?


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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 05:08 PM
  #296  
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Could be possibly a tranny faliure soon.
Lets make it while we race.
I'm not scared to blow up my trans,It is on the list.
You,would probablly scared to push your car and make up excuses when the P soaks you down.

It's all good man.


Lets do it for real.

I'll tape that shizzzz, and everyone on azine will be like :
:tooc ool:: toocool::tooco ol::t oocool:

here's civicdrivr when I blaze by and there's nothing you can do about it.
Maybe you should've kept that turbo.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 05:16 PM
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This is just too perfect
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 06:41 PM
  #298  
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Hey civic, O, I'm ready.
2nd box is in and I have the first shot at 75 and the 2nd at 100.
You ready...........
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 07:58 PM
  #299  
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Sure. When you coming to VA? Theres a 1/4 mile track near me. I dont race on 1/8th mile tracks.

I have a feeling the mods wouldnt like any of this race talk happening

** Professional Drivers, Closed Course, Do Not Attempt!**


Last edited by civicdrivr; Jun 25, 2010 at 08:00 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 08:32 PM
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hold up. ur gonna be spraying the 1st and 2nd shot at the same time, if ur losing? dude, i push my car, 175 at one time on stock internals is hard, far more than id be pushing. good luck.

or

is the 75shot dry primary, and 100 wet shot u spray for extra juice when u know a 75dry isnt gonna be enough. so one shot at a time
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 08:48 PM
  #301  
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75 is going to be the primary any time spray.
When running I will probablly use 75 in 2nd and 100 in 3rd.
I don't want to use both at the same time the motor is not ready for that yet.
I'm sure seperating 1 big shot into 2 is where it's at for any kind of longevity on a stock lower end and fuel setup not to mention no ecu upgrades yet.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 09:30 PM
  #302  
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 01:28 PM
  #303  
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If anyone know's.
My 2nd box I wired everything in,
black-ground
red-jumped power from other box to only have 1 master power
white is ran to tps with a push button between.

My question basically is ,
Will having the push button in between the box and the tps sensor be the correct way to do what I'm doing ?
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 02:38 PM
  #304  
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Originally Posted by richardparker
If anyone know's.
My 2nd box I wired everything in,
black-ground
red-jumped power from other box to only have 1 master power
white is ran to tps with a push button between.

My question basically is ,
Will having the push button in between the box and the tps sensor be the correct way to do what I'm doing ?
NO, unless of course you want both boxes going at the same time (but you could put the 75 shot on the first box, then just do like a 25 one on the second)

but i would still just attach the white wire with no switches and such, then actually switch the red wire insteaad (having the white wire switch will probably cause you issues down the line, with having to recalibrate the 2nd box periodically, as the switch contacts get a little bit of resistence, it's a very low voltage/amperage signal, which won't take much resistence to throw off the signal)

Last edited by friesm2000; Jun 26, 2010 at 02:41 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #305  
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so if u were to activate the switch, u would be spraying 175 shot in the engine. since one switch turns both buttons on. im not sure y u put a push button between the tps wires?
just have two power switches.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 03:41 PM
  #306  
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I was told by another that wiring both boxes basically the same except for the second box wire a switch or a button in between the tps sensor wire on the 2nd box.
So that way the 1st box will fire off tps like before,and the 2nd will be loaded with tps power too but, you use a switch or button to make the circut on when you want the 2nd box to activate.
Again is this wrong ?
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 03:44 PM
  #307  
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Originally Posted by Rajca
so if u were to activate the switch, u would be spraying 175 shot in the engine. since one switch turns both buttons on. im not sure y u put a push button between the tps wires?
just have two power switches.
^ If I just run two seperate power switches then I can basically activate with the power switch like I asked you sometime before ?
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 03:48 PM
  #308  
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yes. one power switch for the 75 and another one for the 100.if u want to take a chance. flip both of them in 3rd gear and see what happens. lol (im not responsible for what may happen)

bc i know when im in 3rd (6spd, i will spin the tires with a 125shot dry)
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 03:50 PM
  #309  
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Originally Posted by richardparker
I was told by another that wiring both boxes basically the same except for the second box wire a switch or a button in between the tps sensor wire on the 2nd box.
So that way the 1st box will fire off tps like before,and the 2nd will be loaded with tps power too but, you use a switch or button to make the circut on when you want the 2nd box to activate.
Again is this wrong ?
u can do that but loaded with tps power? wtf. makes no sense. its only 5v (max) and as soon as u flip the activation switch its already got power instantly. its electricity
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 04:13 PM
  #310  
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So the best way is just to run to seperate power switches then flip them on when floored when I want to engauge either ?
got another question for you racja.....
A friend of mine told me he ran a 125 shot on his 1st gen cl with nothing but plugs and told me to do the same.
I told him I did not want to kill my car because I read in the zex instrution booklet that if anything is ported on the motor I will need more fuel or my car would see detonation problems before someone that don't have any porting.
True or false ?
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 06:17 PM
  #311  
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here's the filter
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 12:33 AM
  #312  
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Originally Posted by Rajca
u can do that but loaded with tps power? wtf. makes no sense. its only 5v (max) and as soon as u flip the activation switch its already got power instantly. its electricity
the signal itself will only get up to 4.5v or so, when it is considered 100% throttle (but yes the 5v is what the reference voltage should be though)

Originally Posted by richardparker
So the best way is just to run to seperate power switches then flip them on when floored when I want to engauge either ?
got another question for you racja.....
A friend of mine told me he ran a 125 shot on his 1st gen cl with nothing but plugs and told me to do the same.
I told him I did not want to kill my car because I read in the zex instrution booklet that if anything is ported on the motor I will need more fuel or my car would see detonation problems before someone that don't have any porting.
True or false ?
too soon junior......
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 12:43 AM
  #313  
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LMFAO, but anyhow....


first of all is that 1st gen ClL, a 4 cylinder (2.3CL) or a 6 cylinder (3.0CL)
then just tossing in a set of COLDER plugs and the motor lives, possible..., but do you want to play that russian roulette though (you can eventually build up to it, but i would not just run it striaght out of the box, like that though)

as far as your motor being ported, the ecu should have already basically taken care of that, and the amount of additional fuel you inject with the shot, is based on the size of the shot itself, and not the motor (maybe some depending on exactly what A/F ratio it likes to make the most power)
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 07:57 AM
  #314  
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^ Not sure if it was a four or six.

I hope I'm not jumping the gun here but I just located a complete type s motor local for $275.
Un sure of the milage but $275 how could I really go wrong,as long as the block is still good.
My clp motor is still fine,no problems.
If I can find a way to get it to my house it will be getting disasemble and built.

Does anyone know if I need a type s ecu or harness to run with no cel?
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 09:24 AM
  #315  
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U will need a type s ecu and engine harness, possibally the lower dash harness also as their will be more inputs to the ecu that the cl-p harness doesn't have.
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 09:50 AM
  #316  
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Would I need the lower dash harness for the vsa ?
Also will not using the vsa throw a cel with a type s ecu ?
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 10:34 AM
  #317  
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Originally Posted by Rajca
U will need a type s ecu and engine harness, possibally the lower dash harness also as their will be more inputs to the ecu that the cl-p harness doesn't have.
is the tl-p different from the cl-p dash harness? My tl-p dash plugged right into the tl-s ecu, nothing extra or missing
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 10:57 AM
  #318  
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Do you have a a2 swap DC ?
What can you tell me that is needed.
Are you running the vsa ?
Any cel's ?
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 11:08 AM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by DC3328
is the tl-p different from the cl-p dash harness? My tl-p dash plugged right into the tl-s ecu, nothing extra or missing
alot of times, things will plug right in, but like the dash harness may not have the wiring in the harness itself and such for the VSA, IMRC and such

Originally Posted by richardparker
^ Not sure if it was a four or six.

I hope I'm not jumping the gun here but I just located a complete type s motor local for $275.
Un sure of the milage but $275 how could I really go wrong,as long as the block is still good.
My clp motor is still fine,no problems.
If I can find a way to get it to my house it will be getting disasemble and built.

Does anyone know if I need a type s ecu or harness to run with no cel?
Assclown is actually currently in the process of putting a A2 (along with a manual conversion) into his TL, so maybe ask him
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by richardparker
Do you have a a2 swap DC ?
What can you tell me that is needed.
Are you running the vsa ?
Any cel's ?
yup, only thing I needed was engine harness, ecu and gauge cluster. No cel's, but the vsa light will be on. According to fsttyms1 it requires a lot more than just the tb and ecu to make it work. I'm fine without it, just pull the bulb in the cluster out

also the IMRC will not work because it requires a separate module that you can find and try and make work, or get an rpm switch and try that. I left mine open like phee did and I have no complaints
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