CH46ESeaKnight

Don't forget, if you can get close to your target comp ratio with some pistons you can get the rest by having the heads shaved to decrease the chambers cc's. Going this route obviusly you'd have to check your piston to valve clearance. Especially if you are going to get a biger bump stick. (cam)

Does anyone know hoe much lift you can put on the stock valves? What I mean is how much lift before your valve spring retainer hits the top of your valve guide seals? Last engine i did, i had to have the valve guides shaved also to make room for a .585 lift.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

^ still got to do more reading and learning before putting my finger on certin parts/shaving the heads,glad to see more and more j builds going on.knowledge for me.
I got both the bases fully gasket matched and all castings gone.
Got to go to lowes and see what they have so I can get all I have done finshed up today.
Then Intake is next

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

The rest of the day has been a wash.
dremel shit the bed,and I got one tube in one base almost done.
took it apart and one of the brushes was jamb crooked tryied to straghten it and it just crumbled to dust.
O well I will grab another sometime today/tonight.
Their goes my service manuals money.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Just grabed another dremel and just about finished this one.
Needs a little more around the injectors but it's done.
After dinner I'm going finish it and bang out the other one too.


Also I bought a service manual off line.And I saved it to my documents.When I try to open it.
It keeps opening blank Internet Explorer windows and don't stop opening them up.Only way I can stop it is by shutting off my computer.
Anyone know how I can open it?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Uhhh, scan that document for virus'.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Both runners done.
I will be painting them tomorrow.
The runners are not sitting like they would bolted but,the are matched.




I got the file to work. The only way I know tomake it work was to veiw it in winzip.
I don't know how to save it to veiw it outside of winzip.
I'm going to try to burn it.

IDon'tKnow

Are you going to work on the coolant channels at all?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Are you talking about the coolant channels in the bottom of the heads ?
I was thinking about removing the crappy castings,and I assume it would will will flow,I just never seen them being done so I wasn't sure I should attempt them. I will clean up the egr ports well for sure though.
Do you plan on doing the coolant channels yourself ?

IDon'tKnow

Yeah I will work on mine. I've seen some places deburr them and open them up a bit. Not sure about cleaning up the inside of them; would think that the irregular casting surface has more surface area than a smooth one and thus better for heat transfer. I will at least open them up to match the HG.

phee

iTrader: (5)

rich. ive never swapped a type-s into an autotragic car. i believe dc200 something something did it to his tl-p.

if you have a 5 speed then its an ecu swap and engine swap with some re-pinning.

i use richies harness for the 6 speed swaps i do.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Are you using a higher pressure cooling system ?
I'm not enlarging those holes for sure.
Maybe just knock off the sand paper looking casting so it will flow easier.

Are you going to do work with the blocks side aswell ?

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

Do you still have all that sound stuff in your car?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

woundering the same thing with the stereo too

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Are you the same IDon'tKnow with the MR-2??

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Yes,for now anyway.

The Fi 18 is gone. That must have been 150lbs+ with the box.
I plan to only end up with 2 12's but,a couple of weeks ago I put my other 2 in the trunk,so I guess I have 4 12's right now.
I'm not racing or anything so 4 12's is fine for now.
I'm sure when this motor is finally done I will be more into going faster and faster, so alot of stuff will be tossed for performance first.

Intake manifold is fully disassembled and cleaned the first time and is on deck.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

He's the same guy.
He has a j35 thread going on in 2nd gen tl performance section.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

must of made the car quite a bit faster already losing that 150 lbs

then for the bass personally the one JL 12w6 i have hits more then enough for me (it still will rattle the sunroof, if i crank it)

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I did make a big differance because I took out 2 12's and one of my amps at the same time too,probally another 60-70lbs.


Looking at this intake manifold do the butterfly's open all the way to the stop ?
If they do I think I got a idea for some inner manifold work that will help will the flow.
2nd time around is going to be better than the first.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

do you mean the imrc or the tb itself???

but it does not really matter though cause they should both basically open 90 degrees (perfectly horizontal)




on a side note, how much better is the gas mileage

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

at the end of the shaft where the stop is.
when the imrc is open does it come to rest on the stop?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

it should go all the way to the stop, that is the reason for having that in the first place (remember our imrc DO NOT have a position sensor, shit the previous owner did the thermo spacer on the manifold, and forgot to put the bolt back in for the cable (so it never fully actuated) and it never threw a check engine light), basically the point i am getting at is that is needs some type of mechanical stop so it does not over extend/rotate

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

That's basically what I was wondering.
Because when the butterfly's are all the way open and you look threw the manifold chamber it does not sit straight fully open .
It actually turns the top side up and makes it direct the flowing air to the top cover and the bottom side of the blade flows freely.
I was planing on angling the inside top edges of the manifold so air will be able to pass straght threw like it should,without getting blocked by the manifold it self.
Then after that I was going to have the blade stop at what ever the best angle I think will improve the flow too.
Also I might do some kind of work to the butterfly's/shaft because the shafts seam to block a lot of the flow.
I don't have my good computer today so I can not post pics till later.
I'm going to mess around with the manifold today so tonight I will post before and after of what I am talking about.

phee

iTrader: (5)

if you dont install the VSA you will have a hidden code. no CEL

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

u might want to look into a bored out tb or even a bigger one like civicdrivr's

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Will the car pass inspections ?
I will still get full power correct?

phee

iTrader: (5)

it passes smog down here. dunno how inspections go up there. sucks that you're doing this now. I threw away a vsa tb a few weeks back

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Threw the manifold horns to the lower runners matched.
Front section and a once over and thats it.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

what u need are these. (not my pics, my phone broke and forgot to take the pics off of it). direct bolt on

SPoolinspOON

iTrader: (5)

with the longer stack....wouldn't you lose HP up top? did anyone every dyno with the different stacks? I would think that the longer stack being closer to the plenums would lose some power..? no?

IDon'tKnow

Definitely keep the shorter horns if you are trying to make power up top. If you want more toque down low and don't mind sacraficing a few Hp up top, please, use the longer horns.

Well, the fact that I'm considering doing an EWP doesn't really relate to the question. Do you think there will be too much flow? That's what your question implies.... just consider that the motor is open deck; you could open those holes up until they were toothpicks holding the chamber on and it would still be the bottleneck in the system.

I wouldn't try and smooth all of the casting irregularities; like I said, they more than likely have more surface area than a smooth surface would and that's what matters when your talking about thermal transfer.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I was thinking opening up the heads cooling channels would reduce coolant presure,there for,poor cooling. No ?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

CH46ESeaKnight

I think more pressure makes for better cooling, not the other way around. Thats why people buy high pressure caps right? Anyone eles?

Also what "i dont know" said about the surface area being reduced if you smooth it out. That might be a factor also.

IDon'tKnow

I don't think that pressure is related to cooling ability in an substantive way. I've always thought that high pressure radiator caps were used simply to deal with more abusive environments; ie racing. I could be wrong.

I talked to a pro this morning about the coolant channels. He said that there isn't much use to enlarging them, that they simply clean them up to prevent the possibility of any poorly caste areas from breaking loose and damaging the WP, ect.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

sounds good to me,even thou it's not much of a concern with what I'm doing.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

high pressure caps are use to raise the boiling point of the coolant/water (geneally ie racing as said, but there are some STOCK cars with like 20 psi on the stock system)

but as you said richard,, with surface area, i would rather go for more surface area then flow personally, and as you also said before just clen up the major/casting flaws and call it good for the coolant jacket

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

^ I'm not even going to bother will them at this point.

I finished the other head and both runners completly.I just need to tape them up and paint.
I've been trying to find out the best option for a TB.
Either the bigest I can get that will fit the factory bolt pattern or one that has a adapter plate.
I also want to be able to use most if not all factory sensors too.
And I would like one with a tps sensor already installed too.

I read in the service manual that the service limit of resurfacing the cylinder head is .08
So that means I could take that off with no piston and valve issues?
Now is taking off .08 even worth taking it off to bump compression.
I just don't want to get that done some where and all it's done is gave me a nice gasket surface.
I assume taking off anything would help raise compression though.

CH46ESeaKnight

Thats not much room for surfacing/shaving the head. You would have to find out how many cc's the factory combustion chamber is and find the formula for the math to reduce it by .08 to get the new chamber cc (cubic centimeters) to find the new comp ratio.

Another thing to think about is do you really want to take the heads to thier service limit? There are a number of problems that can arise from this. Too bad there is not more info on the heads. The .08 limit might be very conservative, or it might not. Kind of a big gamble, unless you can find more info.

The .08 might have to do with valve clearance but I wonder if it has to do with the water jackets also. You don't want to thin that aluminium out too much.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

This is not from our cars but this is something where it's talking about a .08 service limit too.and the affect it has at .10 .20
I don't know how true this stuff is but I think I'm going to call around and find out how much it will cost.
If my timming gets retarded a couple of degrees doing this that would be great for nitrous.

6) Shaving the head. Compression = power. Shaving the head .010" will increase the compression ratio about a 1/4 point. I dyno'd this and it was good for about 4 HP and 4 ft lbs of low rpm torque. It is very noticeable across the entire rpm range. (I don't know what the shaving limit is but I have not heard of anyone going beyond .025". FYI, the shop manual limit is .008" for 1.6 and .004" for the 1.8). As long as you have the head off you might as well R&R the valve seats too. Cost about $250 if you remove and put it back on yourself.

UPDATE 6/23/98 Recently I have talked to a couple of people who have installed and tuned adjustable camshaft gears. They both report that 6-8 degrees retard produces the best high rpm power. This makes perfect sense to me since I never understood why I made so much more power with just a simple head shave. You see, shaving the head retards the cam timing too. A .020" shave will net you abotu a degrees of timing retard in addition to raising the compression ratio (BTW, each cam gear tooth is equal to 12 degrees, that is why everyone who had their belts off one tooth lost so much power

CH46ESeaKnight

That is not going to hold true for all heads. Only for the engine he is working on. Too many variables.

I would not compare what someone else with a differant engine is doing to what you want to do. You really need engine specific info. Also you have to consider your source and its reliability. Maybe you can get some info from
P2R, or PR2 or what ever thier name is, or maybe ThinJim can help you with the head tolerances. But since he is turbo I doubt he raised his comp ratio. More then likely he lowered it. Maybe look for any race team running a J motor in thier track car.