Neejay

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure if they were NEW OEM rear mounts though. I'm doing it, but it's the original rear mount.

I'll probably keep this setup until the rear one craps out. I re-installed the Ingalls Stiffy as well. I don't see any engine movement when shifting the gears + holding the brake pedal down, but I sure feel it.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

i will have the XLR8 front and side and oem rear. i can post reviews in a few weeks when the cars back up and running.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Another setup I am thinking of that would be the best compromise would be: Innovative front mount(vertical design), XLR8 side, and oem rear.

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

i had the 62a you get quite a bit of vibration steering wheel and seat and dash would vibrate but that was only when i was stopped. i got used to it but people that sat in my car thought something was broken in my engine

INSPIRE 32V

iTrader: (1)

Thanks kdawg for the info.
So what is the advantage of having the innovative front vertical mount compared to xlr8 front mount..

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I am not gonna say which is better because I don't have experience with both yet. It basically comes down to will it hold up/last. A few people already complained of play in XLR8 front mount after only a few k miles, whereas reese has reported no problems with his innovative front.

If my XLR8 front starts getting play in it, then my next step is replacing with innovative.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

After finally getting my rear mount in, I can say that the OEM rear + XLR8 front and side definitely reduced vibrations.

+1 to this. It's only when stopped/coming to a stop.

clpassenubye

iTrader: (20)

^^
Glad to hear that I think that will be my next move also.

FwC

iTrader: (1)

So what are you guys torquing these mounts at? Is there anyone with an FSM or a Helms that can list the OEM torque specs vs what you actually torqued to?

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

.

FwC

iTrader: (1)

... that's your catchall torque for all 14 or so bolts?

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

thats from the supplier himself so i guess so

azeezp13

iTrader: (4)

It seems like the guys that reported vibrations with the XLR8 62a inserts were all auto. Did the vibrations go down when the car was in neutral compared to drive mode at a stop? If so, then us 6-speeders should be ok.

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

if i remember correctly it did go down in vibrations in neutral

FwC

iTrader: (1)

I've only driven on these for one week, but would recommend them to anyone having problems with a shaky engine. BUT the amount of vibration throughout the cabin is a bit annoying. I have the 74A bushings. I find it helpful when sitting at idle for long periods of time to put the car in neutral or park.

I was going to write to XLR8 and give an opinion of two but since I'm already writing about it I'll just do it here.

1. The powder coat/paint on the upper mounting bolt for front and rear mount made it excessively hard to screw on the nut when securing the engine to the mount. It was at the point where I turned the nut a few turns and removed the nut to find it super hot from the friction. This could cause a few problems as my torque was at 40 before the nut even made contact with the engine mounting bracket. I think you should recommend to buyers a way to remove that stuff from the bolt or have your manufacturer not powder coat/paint that bolt.

2. The factory bolts to secure the mount to the subframe are too short. The base plate of the front and rear mounts are about 1/4" thick which I would estimate to be about 3 times thicker than the OEM base. This means the securing bolts aren't threading all the way through the nuts on the subframe. Perhaps you should include longer bolts or recommend to buyers to buy them from a local parts store. They are M10 1.25 bolts.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i have set of used XLR8 60a mounts for sale for 6MT

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

So, after having all 3 mounts installed for a little under a year, I'm probably going to buy a new OEM rear mount and install it. I find myself getting annoyed/aggravated from the vibrations when stopped (redlight, drive-thru, etc.) and I only have the 62a ones...guess I'm not hardcore enough lol Everytime the seasons change, I get a different area and type of vibration noise.

If I still get annoyed, then I'll just get a new OEM front one as well since the side-mount doesn't affect the engine load that much.

FwC

iTrader: (1)

I just did this last week. And I'll tell you that it makes it night and day. I got XLR8 front and side with a Beck Arnley rear that doesn't have the hydraulic line. Since this was available I removed all that tubing and the little actuator for the hydraulic lines and plugged up that little hole on the intake manifold.

RockAuto.com - Beck Arnley rear engine mount:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...218&cc=1364925

I was able to drive on it without any noticeable vibrations, but then I put the Ingalls TQ damper on and it brought a little bit of vibration back but not enough to be irritated about. I have the 74A bushings on my mounts.

LOL You'll be happy when you use the AC too. The vibrations with AC was scary before.

-Frank

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

That's great news! Even better, because I never sold my ingalls stiffy, even though it's not on my car...so if I want it a tad bit stiffer I could throw it back on. Thanks for the heads up man.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

On second thought, did a little searching, and I see people recommend NOT to get the non-vacuum assisted mounts...ugh.

FwC

iTrader: (1)

^^^ damn. Oh well. It's working alright so far, I'll update if it fails soon or something.

termo001

is there a big difference in the automatic and manual mounts? i was wondering if i can fit the manual mounts on my auto for now im planning on doing a 6 speed swap soon...my tranny is slipping i have 150,000 miles on my car

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Front and side mounts are the same. Rear is different.

YeuEmMaiMai

Just thought I would chime in here.....

My front and side mount finally bit the bullet at 118+K. These were the original mounts that came on the car. I elected to replace them with stock mounts as I do not drive my car aggressively. The car is nice and smooth now with no noticable issues. shifting seems to be much firmer on the auto and the engine does not move around like it used to.

If you are hard on your car, get stiffer mounts, if you use it as a DD with some occasional spritited driving OEM should be fine.

sabohead

iTrader: (1)

Any updates or news on those "vertical" mounts? I might have to research this more. I am hard on my car. Hell, I am hard on everything I drive/drove.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

It's been about 1.5 years now with the 62A mounts.

Has anyone else had this issue?

Rear:





I can literally move the collar up and down with my fingers.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

We've had very few bushing deformation issues but you may want to upgrade to the 75A bushing to be safe. Email us for more info.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

This weekend, I'm going to double check my front mount as well before making any moves.

kingofdust

Okay so my mounts are shot and its time to do a swap. I drive my car pretty hard but I also daily it. I don't think I will have a problem with vibrations as long as I know its not vibrations from the mounts being broken. I just need the basically cheapest way to get the power back to the wheels so is that xlr8 or rock auto mounts? Its a 6mt.