Well Guys, I went outside and took a good look under the hood and it seems I may have to once again pull the 6mt tranny. As you can see from the pics the transmission differential oil seal is leaking on the driver-side and may be on the passenger side as well. I couldn’t see. look at all the fluid on the CV portion of the axle. The Manual states that you have to remove the differential to change the seals but is looks like they can just be pried out without removing and disassembling the tranny. Look at the pics from the service manual below. What do you gurus know about this? Do I have to take the tranny apart to change these? I am going to do this all myself regardless of what I end up having to do. Below are the pics of the leak. Sorry they aren’t so good but you should be able to get it if you are worthy of answering the questions. Also I cant find the part numbers for the seals. They are both different.

Transmission differential oil seal leak


These are the statements in the service manual about having the differential removed to change the seals. They are pressed in from the outside of the housing and I don't see why the tranny has to be torn apart to change them.



My side engine mount is also shot and I suspect is the source of all the clunking I have been hearing from the front passenger side when I hit a big pothole or when I start the car sometimes. It is torn apart and you can see the fluid has run all over the engine bay. This must have been shot for some time now. The others are good and I checked the ball joints and the shocks bushings and they are all good also.



Also my power steering pump is leaking very slowly. There is only fluid immediately under the p/s pump and everything works like a charm with the steering. Do you think I can just disassemble the p/s pump and replace the $2 seals or do I have to spend the $260 and buy a new one?



I am at 99000 miles and will need the t-belt and water pump soon so I think I am going to wait and tear it all down in 5000 miles. Here is a pic of my engine bay and the interior. I thought you buys might like to see it.



So what do you think about the Trans oil seals, and the power steering pump? I guess it sucks but that is what we have to do to go fast. Sorry, I know the car is filthy. Jim

 

Thanks in advance for your help guys.

 

I looked through the service manual and i will be able to overhaul the p/s pump since it is working fine and is just leaking. So I got that covered for about $30 in seals and my time. I will do it with the timing belt, water pump, and side motor mount at the same time.

So I am still a little pissed about the idea of pulling the tranny for these damn seals. The tranny works fine. What do you guys know about removing the seals?

 

I found one of the seals at
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

91205-P0X-005 OIL SEAL (40X56X9)

But I cant find the other one. It is 35x54x8mm oil seal. I know it is early but I feel like I am talking to myself here. Wait, I have been.

 

I got the other one now too.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

part 17

91206-P0Z-005 OIL SEAL (35X54X8) (NOK)

 

Those look like the axle seals to me. I cant really tell much from the pix though. If there just the axle seals, than the axles just need to come out for you to put them in. Once you have the axles off (Whichever side its leaking from) just take a screwdriver and carfully pry it out and put the new one in. very simple.

 

yup those based on the part numbers and the honda diagrams those are the axle seals. No need to pull the tranny, just pop the axles out and put the new ones in, like i said in last post!

 

Fix the powersteering pump yourself. the seals on the tranny may be able to be replaced while it's on the car. best thing to do here is to tear it down to the seals and take a look. I'm no expert, but the failed motor mount on the side of motor may have slightly changed the geometry on the axels thus causing them to leak and distort. those things usually don't fail at99k. Only a thought and not sure if this could have caused it.

 

Have you gotten your axles replaced? If you did you may not have had the seals replaced. On some cars you have to replace the seal on top of the axles.

Sorry you car is not being kind to you.

 

ThinJim,
I am sure you remember that I had to have my tranny removed and opened up because the input shaft seal was leaking and eventually fried my clutch. I am thinking that it all happened because the trans was overfilled and I was driving 80-100mph for 1000 miles like that nonstop over and over again. It was overfilled by Acura for most of the life of the car before the tranny was pulled at 85000 and for a while after. It wasnt until a tech got the tsb for the tranny leaking when it started leaking again but from the weep hole he realized we have to remove the overfill bolt and fill the tranny with fluid only until it runs from the overfill hole. I dont know but your theory holds just as much water. I hope they can be changed with the tranny on the car. That would be nice. I will rebuild the p/s pump and replace the side mount when I replace everything at the 105 service interval. Any other thoughts?

 

Thanks fuzzy,
LOL! Yes sir, I hate it when that lady in black is not kind to me. Sometimes I think I deserve better but I am a broken man and I put up with whatever crap she gives me.

The axles have never been repalced. They have been removed twice as the transmission has been pulled twice. Thats it. I take very, very good care of the mechanicals maintinace wise. I dont beat on it by shiffting like an F1 tranny or spinning the tires every chance I get. Actually, I shift very slow even when I accelerate quickly. Some things just break I guess. At least it seems this may be easy to fix

 

If they have been removed then the seals should have been replaced. At least that's how it is on other cars. I had this happen with my mom's Altima. We had the axle shaft replaced, & the shop didn't do the seals. They leaked in 5K miles & then it had to be redone.

 

Guys, I put this list of the parts I intend to replace on my car for any reference you may want to later use or so you can see the cost of each part. Let me know if you think I am doing something unnecessary or if you have any tips for doing any of these things. Do any of you know how to remove the pulley side crank seal and the cam shaft seals with all the shafts in place? When I ask how to remove I mean how to pry them out with all other parts removed necessary to get to them except the crank shaft adn camshafts. That is the only thing I have never done before. I know my mechanic did it on my Pathfinder but how? Also, Why are you all replacing the automatic timing belt adjuster? All parts locations are for www.acuraoemparts.com.

Timing Belt parts I might as well do while I am in there;

14520-P8E-A01 Automatic Adjuster $75.50
4400-P8A-A02 BELT, TIMING (197YU26) $30.18
19200-P8A-A02 WATER PUMP $97.98
Pulley side Crank seal, Its listed under oil pump
91212-P8A-A01 OIL SEAL (41X56X8) part 24 $6.80
Cam shaft seals, they are under camshaft timing belt
91213-P8A-A01 OIL SEAL (39X53X8) x2 $4.26
Thermostat I know its on the other side
19301-P8E-A10 THERMOSTAT ASSY. $25


Power steering overhaul;
Parts 14,15,17,18,19,20,21 under power steering pump bracket total $19.50

Valve adjustment;
VALVE COVER GASKET / OEM PART # 12341-P8A-A00 X 2 listed under cylinder head cover $4.95
Feeler gauge for .2-.24 and .28-.32mm at any auto store

Side motor mount;
50820-S3M-A81 RUBBER ASSY., ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING $51.12

Polly urethane for filling the two small trans mounts and side mount. Yes I am doing it old school. I am not satisfied with the problems from Innovative. I may do their front only some day. Why the hell did they not do the two small trans mounts also anyway? They may as well be classified as engine mounts since the trans and engine are one large square block/unit anyway. I think these MUST be just as important.

Transmission axle oil seals
91205-P0X-005 OIL SEAL (40X56X9) under transmission housing part 22 $7.92
91206-P0Z-005 OIL SEAL (35X54X8) (NOK) part 17 under clutch housing $5.40

Hood hydraulic opener;
74145-S3M-A00 STAY ASSY., HOOD OPENER $20.02 each
Yep, the hood almost slammed on my head tonight and that is unaceptable!

Primary O2 sensor;
36531-PGE-A11 SENSOR, OXYGEN $100
I already got it at the house so I might as well throw it on.


Lower Ball Joints x2 $35 each

Total parts $547.94

 

Maybe consider the upper and lower radiator hoses with a flush, and the drive belts as well.

Also maybe
006 14510-PGE-A01 ADJUSTER, TIMING BELT
010 14550-PGE-A01 IDLER, TIMING BELT

 

I dont need a flush because I just did one but I will have to anyway with the new t-stat. I jsut put the blower on and the upper hose is new and the lower is fine but I will check it just for you. I already got the t-belt adjuster on the list above. If the T-belt Idler has play I will replace it. I have never heard of one failing. I had thought of that but good thinking anyway.

 

The adjuster you put is different, this is another one. Look at the part numbers, there different

 

Silva,
I see thanks.