GROUPBUY: Brembo Brakes + SS Lines + Ceramic pads
#1
Suzuka Master
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GROUPBUY: Brembo Brakes + SS Lines + Ceramic pads
Okay I finally got my brakes today from race concepts.
FRONT AND REAR
Heres the deal I promised everyone:
For 01~03 CL / CLS 99~03 TL / TLS
135 for front PAIR of Brembo blanks anyway you want -cross-drilled, slotted, or dimple rotors
110 for Rear PAIR of Brembo Blanks anyway you want
All rotors are Zinc plated (silver as shown in pic)
85 for SS lines
45 for AXXISS Ultimate Ceramic Kevlar Brake pads
40 if you want AXXISS Ultimate Metal Master pads
If your a first gen CL you MUST SPECIFY YEAR and 4cyl or v6
97~99 CL 4 cyl
$95.00 per front pair rotors
$40.00 front pads, $35.00 rear pads
97~99 CL V6
$100.00 front pair $95.00 rear pair
$40.00 front pads, $35.00 rear pad metal master only
98+ Accord V6
$100.00 front, $95.00 rear
$40.00 front pads, $35.00 rear pads Metal master only
The SS lines are by Technafit
The rotors are ZINC coated
Shipping will depend on your location. They are located in cali and to ship to VA its was 33 dollars so im sure it'll be less than that if you on the west or mid coast.
If you live on the east cost then it will cost you 298 for everything shipped to your door. if you live else where or closer to CA then probably a few dollars cheaper.
You can get them all or just what you need all prices are honored. just rotors, or just pads or just lines![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Compare the rotors to another site which i won't mention charges over 150 EACH PER rotor using honda rotors that are notorious to warrping
![](http://www.stoptech.com/images/ultchart.jpg)
![](http://www.stoptech.com/images/UltimatePadsweb.jpg)
The purpose of cross-drilled, slotted, or dimple rotors is to dissipate heat by degassing the hot gasses created under driving condition.
CNC machined for precision & balance
Military spec. Plating
Prevent premature warping
Prevent fade
Reduce operating temperature
Reduce stopping distance
Prolong the life of the pads and rotors
Cross-drilled: Holes are drilled through the rotor to dissipate heat. Cross drilling is very effective for heat dissipation. It will prolong the life to the pads, rotors and improve stopping power. It also shed off water under-wet driving condition.
Slotted: A line cut on the surface of the rotors to dissipate heat and increase bite. Slotted rotors will bring up the operation temperature of the braking components much faster over cross-drilled, yet it dissipates the heat at the same time. The added bite will reduce the stopping distance. Slotted rotor does not scarify the structural integrity of the rotor.
Dimple: In a way it is very much like slotted rotors with the cross-drilled looks. Work the same way as slotted rotors, but looks exactly like cross-drilled and less pad wear. Dimple rotor does not scarify the structural integrity of the rotor.
The combination of cross-drilled and slotted or dimple and slotted will give you the best of both world. It will dissipate heat and increase bite for better stopping power.
The slot in our slotted rotors does not run over to the edge of the rotor. Slotting the rotor over the edge will weaken the structural integrity of the rotor. As it will create weak point.
Instructions:
Please contact WOODY @ raceconcept and mention the acura-cl groupbuy
714) 547-3581
THESE ARE AVAILABLE NOW!!
joekim13@hotmail.com in the subject please put GROUPBUY BRAKE so my email filter doesn't think its spam:P
The rears are now available.
FRONT AND REAR
Heres the deal I promised everyone:
For 01~03 CL / CLS 99~03 TL / TLS
135 for front PAIR of Brembo blanks anyway you want -cross-drilled, slotted, or dimple rotors
110 for Rear PAIR of Brembo Blanks anyway you want
All rotors are Zinc plated (silver as shown in pic)
85 for SS lines
45 for AXXISS Ultimate Ceramic Kevlar Brake pads
40 if you want AXXISS Ultimate Metal Master pads
If your a first gen CL you MUST SPECIFY YEAR and 4cyl or v6
97~99 CL 4 cyl
$95.00 per front pair rotors
$40.00 front pads, $35.00 rear pads
97~99 CL V6
$100.00 front pair $95.00 rear pair
$40.00 front pads, $35.00 rear pad metal master only
98+ Accord V6
$100.00 front, $95.00 rear
$40.00 front pads, $35.00 rear pads Metal master only
The SS lines are by Technafit
The rotors are ZINC coated
Shipping will depend on your location. They are located in cali and to ship to VA its was 33 dollars so im sure it'll be less than that if you on the west or mid coast.
If you live on the east cost then it will cost you 298 for everything shipped to your door. if you live else where or closer to CA then probably a few dollars cheaper.
You can get them all or just what you need all prices are honored. just rotors, or just pads or just lines
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Compare the rotors to another site which i won't mention charges over 150 EACH PER rotor using honda rotors that are notorious to warrping
![](http://www.raceconcepts.net/images/top_car.jpg)
![](http://www.stoptech.com/images/ultchart.jpg)
![](http://www.stoptech.com/images/UltimatePadsweb.jpg)
The purpose of cross-drilled, slotted, or dimple rotors is to dissipate heat by degassing the hot gasses created under driving condition.
CNC machined for precision & balance
Military spec. Plating
Prevent premature warping
Prevent fade
Reduce operating temperature
Reduce stopping distance
Prolong the life of the pads and rotors
Cross-drilled: Holes are drilled through the rotor to dissipate heat. Cross drilling is very effective for heat dissipation. It will prolong the life to the pads, rotors and improve stopping power. It also shed off water under-wet driving condition.
Slotted: A line cut on the surface of the rotors to dissipate heat and increase bite. Slotted rotors will bring up the operation temperature of the braking components much faster over cross-drilled, yet it dissipates the heat at the same time. The added bite will reduce the stopping distance. Slotted rotor does not scarify the structural integrity of the rotor.
Dimple: In a way it is very much like slotted rotors with the cross-drilled looks. Work the same way as slotted rotors, but looks exactly like cross-drilled and less pad wear. Dimple rotor does not scarify the structural integrity of the rotor.
The combination of cross-drilled and slotted or dimple and slotted will give you the best of both world. It will dissipate heat and increase bite for better stopping power.
The slot in our slotted rotors does not run over to the edge of the rotor. Slotting the rotor over the edge will weaken the structural integrity of the rotor. As it will create weak point.
Instructions:
Please contact WOODY @ raceconcept and mention the acura-cl groupbuy
714) 547-3581
THESE ARE AVAILABLE NOW!!
joekim13@hotmail.com in the subject please put GROUPBUY BRAKE so my email filter doesn't think its spam:P
The rears are now available.
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#9
Sold 12/29/04 :-(
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I want Front & Rear, when will the rear be available?
no idea, just order the fronts for now, and i'll take care of it when the rears are available caues i need rear ones too
no idea, just order the fronts for now, and i'll take care of it when the rears are available caues i need rear ones too
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#11
Racer
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 40
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how long will it take to get them in because i am out of school on may 5 so i need to know if i should get them sent to school or home
they will ship it out as soon as you want. then its all up to UPS![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Re-read my originial thread and follow instructions
they will ship it out as soon as you want. then its all up to UPS
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Re-read my originial thread and follow instructions
#12
'Military spec. Plating" does that mean they wont rust?
yes
where in cali are they ?
Santa Ana, CA
will they allow pick up?
if your close enough yes you can pick them up.
ill be interested after i hear your review of how they preform
great you'll be hearing a review from me as soon as get off my lazy ass and install them
yes
where in cali are they ?
Santa Ana, CA
will they allow pick up?
if your close enough yes you can pick them up.
ill be interested after i hear your review of how they preform
great you'll be hearing a review from me as soon as get off my lazy ass and install them
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#13
CAFFEINE SLAVE
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What about us 1st gens?
Specifically for a '98+ 3.0 from the raceconcept.net site:
#RHON24 Fronts $130
#RHON25 Rears $130
Can you get them cheaper than that?
I'm going to call them up and find out, This was meant to be a package deal ...
Specifically for a '98+ 3.0 from the raceconcept.net site:
#RHON24 Fronts $130
#RHON25 Rears $130
Can you get them cheaper than that?
I'm going to call them up and find out, This was meant to be a package deal ...
#14
Masshole
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Originally posted by 6speedS
very tempting!
very tempting!
![Werd](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/werd.gif)
My fronts are warped like motherf*ckers...AGAIN!!
yeah mine too, replaced @ 30k, and now again @ 45k. I've had enough w/ honda/acura pad/rotors.
#15
Drifting
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is $45 for the axxis brake pads just for the front?
yes just for the fronts these are not semi-met Normal Axxis metal masters These are the Axxis Ultimate brakes made with CERAMIC/KEVLAR
yes just for the fronts these are not semi-met Normal Axxis metal masters These are the Axxis Ultimate brakes made with CERAMIC/KEVLAR
#17
Senior Moderator
are they lighter than the stock rotors?
17.8 lbs each for Xdrilled/slotted and 6.4 for the Pads in comparison stock ones are 18.4 lbs
are they plated so they wont rust?
yes
do they come ready to install, or do they need to be turned first?
ready to install
17.8 lbs each for Xdrilled/slotted and 6.4 for the Pads in comparison stock ones are 18.4 lbs
are they plated so they wont rust?
yes
do they come ready to install, or do they need to be turned first?
ready to install
#19
Drifting
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Location: Miami, FL
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i'm almost definitely down for the full package
please email me to confirm
Rotors are available in combination too right? (ex. cross-drilled & slotted or slotted and dimpled)
Yes
anyway you like them
drilled
slotted
drimpled
drilled + slotted
dimpled + slotted
not to be picky nova but for everyone's sake can u either bold or indent or w/e u feel like so we can see the original post and your post cause some of the longer posts can get confusing like that
Good idea
please email me to confirm
Rotors are available in combination too right? (ex. cross-drilled & slotted or slotted and dimpled)
Yes
anyway you like them
drilled
slotted
drimpled
drilled + slotted
dimpled + slotted
not to be picky nova but for everyone's sake can u either bold or indent or w/e u feel like so we can see the original post and your post cause some of the longer posts can get confusing like that
Good idea
#20
A-CL Senior Member
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I was wondering can I do a local pick up since I live close to santa ana?
no problem brotha! i guess you'll get the best deal then. Just email me and indicate you will pick up
no problem brotha! i guess you'll get the best deal then. Just email me and indicate you will pick up
#21
HELLLLLLOOOOOO NURSE!!!!!
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Sup Nova,
I'm up for the whole package will contact you to confirm on May 8. What can I say gotta wait for pay day. Can you find out how much it'll cost to ship to Houston, Texas. Appriciate the hard work dude. Keep it up. Oh, can you update me if there is a GB for Teins or Comptech exhaust. Thanks again.
after this is done I'll have some thing to go with when contacting manufactures, but for comptech stuff try Dean he's a great guy and offers really low prices on almost everything
I'm working nights so I"ll be up around 1:00pm EST. I"ll call them up and get shipping info for texas but just know it'll be cheaper than what I paid as texas is closer to cali than DC is![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Thanks dude, really appreciate the leg work
I'm up for the whole package will contact you to confirm on May 8. What can I say gotta wait for pay day. Can you find out how much it'll cost to ship to Houston, Texas. Appriciate the hard work dude. Keep it up. Oh, can you update me if there is a GB for Teins or Comptech exhaust. Thanks again.
after this is done I'll have some thing to go with when contacting manufactures, but for comptech stuff try Dean he's a great guy and offers really low prices on almost everything
I'm working nights so I"ll be up around 1:00pm EST. I"ll call them up and get shipping info for texas but just know it'll be cheaper than what I paid as texas is closer to cali than DC is
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Thanks dude, really appreciate the leg work
#22
Pro
iTrader: (2)
What are the benefits and drawbacks of ceramic/kevlar pads over semi-met?
This is straight from Axxis:
The Axxis Ultimate is a new high-performance brake pad manufactured by Bendix of Australia. The Ultimate's unique ceramic and Kevlar composition results in a high coefficient of friction, excellent fade resistance, good cold stopping power, excellent wear rates, and extreme rotor friendliness. All Axxis Ultimate brake pad sets come with OEM-spec wear sensors. The Axxis Ultimate is an excellent choice for aggressive street driving, autocross, drag racing, and light weekend track use.
I don't know much about them. Also will the rotors last as long as stock?
Man stock ones, I was lucky to get 30k out of them, now im replacing new ones after 15k so I would have to say yes last longer than stock. plus did I mention it looks PHAT AS SHIT!!
can they be turned?
Drilled rotors cannot be turned; a stock or slotted rotor can be turned
I'll call and ask tommrow around 2:00pm EST to confirm
Obviously they should be more resistant to warping and fade.
Yes, this is why I'm getting them.
Are the brake lines steel braided?
yes arn't all SS lines braided.
Are the rotors same diameter as stock
Yes direct replacement
Do you know if Brembo makes a caliper I can buy seperately that will work with this setup?
No idea, contact brembo , but most people go w/ either axxis, porterfield,Zeal, or Hawk
This is straight from Axxis:
The Axxis Ultimate is a new high-performance brake pad manufactured by Bendix of Australia. The Ultimate's unique ceramic and Kevlar composition results in a high coefficient of friction, excellent fade resistance, good cold stopping power, excellent wear rates, and extreme rotor friendliness. All Axxis Ultimate brake pad sets come with OEM-spec wear sensors. The Axxis Ultimate is an excellent choice for aggressive street driving, autocross, drag racing, and light weekend track use.
I don't know much about them. Also will the rotors last as long as stock?
Man stock ones, I was lucky to get 30k out of them, now im replacing new ones after 15k so I would have to say yes last longer than stock. plus did I mention it looks PHAT AS SHIT!!
can they be turned?
Drilled rotors cannot be turned; a stock or slotted rotor can be turned
I'll call and ask tommrow around 2:00pm EST to confirm
Obviously they should be more resistant to warping and fade.
Yes, this is why I'm getting them.
Are the brake lines steel braided?
yes arn't all SS lines braided.
Are the rotors same diameter as stock
Yes direct replacement
Do you know if Brembo makes a caliper I can buy seperately that will work with this setup?
No idea, contact brembo , but most people go w/ either axxis, porterfield,Zeal, or Hawk
#23
Suzuka Master
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Everyone, please read and check everyones post as I am just 'editing' threads to answer questions. I hate threads w/ 50 pages of redundant questions.
#24
Fell off my Rocking-Chair
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NOVA: i'm seriously considering jumping on this wagon but had some questions
- Are there any specific problems these types of rotors and pads are known to have, either through ur own experience or of knowledge of someone else's?
not that I know of
I'm REALLY concerned about this cos of my sorry luck with aftermarket products which have been lead to real pain in the a$$ which i'd hate go through again.
- How long are the pads expected to last? And once they go, will they be fairly easy to reorder even 3-5 yrs from now?
They should last longer than Stock but all depends on how you drive. If you mash the gas everytime now that you have aftermarket pads it won't last as long but if you drive the same most liekly it'll outlast the stock ones. Pads should be available for ever unless AXXISS goes out of busssiness or any of the other companies that sell pads for our cars
- Will the spongy/disconnected feeling of the pedal in the poor OEM braking system go away with just the rotors and pad system and WITHOUT the SS line?
Spongy feel is from the OEM lines so without upgrading to the SS lines I don't see how the spongy feel would go away, why don't you order it without the SS lines install everything and then order SS lines later
- Doesnt the installation of the ss-line cause voidance of the brake-warranty or atleast a hassle by the dealers? Kinda like adding headers/intake would to the tranny problem?
Headers/intake has NOTHING to do w/ tranny problem,no idea what the dealer would say about the SS lines I suggest you call your dealer and get their opinion
- There shouldnt be any problem, for whatever reason, if i wanted to go back to the stock rotors and pads? Would be just like before right?
Yeah its direct bolt-on bolt-off
Thanks and cant wait for ur testing on these!
- Are there any specific problems these types of rotors and pads are known to have, either through ur own experience or of knowledge of someone else's?
not that I know of
I'm REALLY concerned about this cos of my sorry luck with aftermarket products which have been lead to real pain in the a$$ which i'd hate go through again.
- How long are the pads expected to last? And once they go, will they be fairly easy to reorder even 3-5 yrs from now?
They should last longer than Stock but all depends on how you drive. If you mash the gas everytime now that you have aftermarket pads it won't last as long but if you drive the same most liekly it'll outlast the stock ones. Pads should be available for ever unless AXXISS goes out of busssiness or any of the other companies that sell pads for our cars
- Will the spongy/disconnected feeling of the pedal in the poor OEM braking system go away with just the rotors and pad system and WITHOUT the SS line?
Spongy feel is from the OEM lines so without upgrading to the SS lines I don't see how the spongy feel would go away, why don't you order it without the SS lines install everything and then order SS lines later
- Doesnt the installation of the ss-line cause voidance of the brake-warranty or atleast a hassle by the dealers? Kinda like adding headers/intake would to the tranny problem?
Headers/intake has NOTHING to do w/ tranny problem,no idea what the dealer would say about the SS lines I suggest you call your dealer and get their opinion
- There shouldnt be any problem, for whatever reason, if i wanted to go back to the stock rotors and pads? Would be just like before right?
Yeah its direct bolt-on bolt-off
Thanks and cant wait for ur testing on these!
#25
Senior Moderator
will ceramic brakepads be prone to sqeeling?
Shouldn't be, unless they are all worn
These are High Performance street pads with roughly 20% more grip than OEM, but with no extra dusting or squeal
All Bendix Mintex pads feature an integral anti-squeal shim for quite high performance operation.
The following is from the miata fourm,real reviews by members
http://www.miata.net/products/perform/axxis.html
the brakelines are for a set of 4, correct?
Yes for all 4
thanks
Shouldn't be, unless they are all worn
These are High Performance street pads with roughly 20% more grip than OEM, but with no extra dusting or squeal
All Bendix Mintex pads feature an integral anti-squeal shim for quite high performance operation.
The following is from the miata fourm,real reviews by members
http://www.miata.net/products/perform/axxis.html
the brakelines are for a set of 4, correct?
Yes for all 4
thanks
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#26
Suzuka Master
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After everyone gets these I would recommend everyone to Bed the brakes in so they will wear properly
Bedding in rotors
New rotors should be bedded in using old brake pads and vice versa. I realize this isn’t always possible, however, so following are some procedures to follow. Never hold the brake on while throttling the car. This builds too much heat and can damage the rotor and overheat the pads. The best way to bed in a set of new rotors and pads is to use them gently for about a week. This will bring small amounts of even heat into the rotor and allow it to cool down evenly.
After a week of careful driving, you can start doing more spirited stops. After bringing the car up to 60 to 70 mph, apply the brakes in a light-medium effort (35 percent) and slow the car to 20 mph. Repeat this procedure three more times. Continue driving for 10 minutes without using the brakes at all, if possible. This will allow time for the rotors and pads to cool. Repeat this procedure with a medium effort (50 percent) and 10 minutes of driving to cool the pads and rotors. Do it once again with a medium-hard effort (75 percent), then, rather than driving, park the car and allow the brake rotors and pads to cool overnight or through the day at ambient temperature.
The following day, repeat the first two of the procedures above, then do at least five aggressive stops to ensure that the rotors are finally up to full operating temperature. Be careful not to lock up the brakes. Continue driving the car for 10 minutes without using the brakes, if possible. Let the brakes cool overnight. They should now be ready for full-time use.
Even properly bedded-in rotors need to be warmed up prior to each time they’re used for spirited driving or racing, as a rotor can go from an outside temperature of 80F to more than 1,000F degrees in less than three seconds under these types of driving conditions. If you start to notice a vibration after aggressive stops, the rotors were likely heated too quickly. So if you’re going to participate in a track day or other high-performance driving, give your brakes a few laps to warm up. Remember, your driving habits control the wear and tear on your car’s entire brake system, not just the rotor and pad material.
Bedding in pads
Friction material in most brake pads is held together by a binding material. As you heat up the pad for the first time, the binder will start to “boil” from the surface of the pad. Once this binder is properly burned from the material, the chemical reaction needed to season the pad is complete. If you heat a pad too quickly or overheat it, the binder can cause the material to delaminate from the pad backing plate, creating an air pocket between the pad and the backing plate. Then, when the brake pedal is applied, the air pocket must be taken up before the pad material can be pushed against the rotor. This mushy sensation misleads a lot of racers to think that their brake fluid needs bleeding, when, in fact, the pads weren’t bedded in properly.
The procedure for bedding in pads is similar to that for bedding in rotors. Do a few warm-up stops to get the rotor and pad up to a normal temperature, then do a few heavy stops back to back. Allow the pads to cool for 10 minutes. Then do three light stops to warm the rotors again, followed by six to eight heavy stops back to back without locking up the brakes. Allow the pads and rotors to cool for at least 10 minutes. It’s best to let them cool overnight or down to ambient temperature if possible.
Now, as long as you’ve been changing your brake fluid regularly, you should have great brakes that, once warmed up carefully, should bring you long hours of high-performance driving or track days
Why is the pad and rotor break-in procedure so important?
PROPER BREAK-IN OF ROTORS AND PADS IS CRITICAL. Not properly doing so can cause permanent damage to rotors and adversely effect overall brake performance. Pads and rotors interact with each other to provide efficient brake performance. The break-in or bed-in procedure is done to condition the pad/rotor interface. Depending on the pad used, more or less pad material is uniformly transferred onto the disc as a thin film. The resins and bonding agents in some pads need to be heat cycled to work properly as well. By not properly bedding in pads, uneven pad material deposits can occur that may cause a vibration. Improper wear characteristics may also show up on either the pads, or rotors, or both. Always follow the recommended break-in procedure for any pads, rotors or brake systems. This link is to the Technical page of our website. The article titled The "Warped" Brake Disc and other Myths of the Braking System has more details about the effect of the pad and rotor together:
Bedding in rotors
New rotors should be bedded in using old brake pads and vice versa. I realize this isn’t always possible, however, so following are some procedures to follow. Never hold the brake on while throttling the car. This builds too much heat and can damage the rotor and overheat the pads. The best way to bed in a set of new rotors and pads is to use them gently for about a week. This will bring small amounts of even heat into the rotor and allow it to cool down evenly.
After a week of careful driving, you can start doing more spirited stops. After bringing the car up to 60 to 70 mph, apply the brakes in a light-medium effort (35 percent) and slow the car to 20 mph. Repeat this procedure three more times. Continue driving for 10 minutes without using the brakes at all, if possible. This will allow time for the rotors and pads to cool. Repeat this procedure with a medium effort (50 percent) and 10 minutes of driving to cool the pads and rotors. Do it once again with a medium-hard effort (75 percent), then, rather than driving, park the car and allow the brake rotors and pads to cool overnight or through the day at ambient temperature.
The following day, repeat the first two of the procedures above, then do at least five aggressive stops to ensure that the rotors are finally up to full operating temperature. Be careful not to lock up the brakes. Continue driving the car for 10 minutes without using the brakes, if possible. Let the brakes cool overnight. They should now be ready for full-time use.
Even properly bedded-in rotors need to be warmed up prior to each time they’re used for spirited driving or racing, as a rotor can go from an outside temperature of 80F to more than 1,000F degrees in less than three seconds under these types of driving conditions. If you start to notice a vibration after aggressive stops, the rotors were likely heated too quickly. So if you’re going to participate in a track day or other high-performance driving, give your brakes a few laps to warm up. Remember, your driving habits control the wear and tear on your car’s entire brake system, not just the rotor and pad material.
Bedding in pads
Friction material in most brake pads is held together by a binding material. As you heat up the pad for the first time, the binder will start to “boil” from the surface of the pad. Once this binder is properly burned from the material, the chemical reaction needed to season the pad is complete. If you heat a pad too quickly or overheat it, the binder can cause the material to delaminate from the pad backing plate, creating an air pocket between the pad and the backing plate. Then, when the brake pedal is applied, the air pocket must be taken up before the pad material can be pushed against the rotor. This mushy sensation misleads a lot of racers to think that their brake fluid needs bleeding, when, in fact, the pads weren’t bedded in properly.
The procedure for bedding in pads is similar to that for bedding in rotors. Do a few warm-up stops to get the rotor and pad up to a normal temperature, then do a few heavy stops back to back. Allow the pads to cool for 10 minutes. Then do three light stops to warm the rotors again, followed by six to eight heavy stops back to back without locking up the brakes. Allow the pads and rotors to cool for at least 10 minutes. It’s best to let them cool overnight or down to ambient temperature if possible.
Now, as long as you’ve been changing your brake fluid regularly, you should have great brakes that, once warmed up carefully, should bring you long hours of high-performance driving or track days
Why is the pad and rotor break-in procedure so important?
PROPER BREAK-IN OF ROTORS AND PADS IS CRITICAL. Not properly doing so can cause permanent damage to rotors and adversely effect overall brake performance. Pads and rotors interact with each other to provide efficient brake performance. The break-in or bed-in procedure is done to condition the pad/rotor interface. Depending on the pad used, more or less pad material is uniformly transferred onto the disc as a thin film. The resins and bonding agents in some pads need to be heat cycled to work properly as well. By not properly bedding in pads, uneven pad material deposits can occur that may cause a vibration. Improper wear characteristics may also show up on either the pads, or rotors, or both. Always follow the recommended break-in procedure for any pads, rotors or brake systems. This link is to the Technical page of our website. The article titled The "Warped" Brake Disc and other Myths of the Braking System has more details about the effect of the pad and rotor together:
#28
Find beauty in dissonance
Originally posted by flint
What are the benefits and drawbacks of ceramic/kevlar pads over semi-met?
What are the benefits and drawbacks of ceramic/kevlar pads over semi-met?
![](http://www.zeckhausen.com/images/Pads/pad-life.jpg)
![](http://www.zeckhausen.com/images/Pads/rotor.jpg)
![](http://www.zeckhausen.com/images/Pads/rotor-scoring.jpg)
more info
here
If you drive a lot of miles, I'd recommend the metal masters. NOVA, could we substitute the metal masters?
I have 46k on my stock brakes, no problems. I'll try to measure my pads and rotors this weekend or next, see how many more miles I may have. At this price everything can sit in my garage till I need them. I think stock rotors are 95-120 each. Thanks.
I just got back from work and need to sleep and they arn't open till later so I'll have some more updates by 3:00pm EST latest
#30
Masshole
Join Date: Jul 2001
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Hey Joe:
I'm in for the slotted/dimpled rotors and the pads....I sent you an email ordering everything, then changed my mind about the lines. Give me a call!!![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
WHEN EVERYONE EMAILS ME PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR FOURM ID,
Hey can you email me one more time so I know which one is your email, thanks man!
I'm in for the slotted/dimpled rotors and the pads....I sent you an email ordering everything, then changed my mind about the lines. Give me a call!!
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
WHEN EVERYONE EMAILS ME PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR FOURM ID,
Hey can you email me one more time so I know which one is your email, thanks man!
#32
Hi Nova. Great work and price on the GB. I checked the raceconcepts site and didn't see rotors for 03 CL Type S listed. Can you confirm that the application is correct for that year and model? Thanks
Otis
All brakes 01~03 are going to be the same on the CL
Otis
All brakes 01~03 are going to be the same on the CL
#35
Racer
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NOVA--I will most likely be in on this buy by the end of next month (week 4 or 5). My brakes are warped, but I gotta get those KONI's first. I'm also waiting on your review.
How did you get your rotors (cross-drilled, slotted...)? Why?
I still don't understand the difference b/w cross-drilled and dimpled. Can you explain please. Thanks for the time you put into this GB. Oh, did you order your KONI shocks yet?
read my original post for the differeance. also google does wonders
How did you get your rotors (cross-drilled, slotted...)? Why?
I still don't understand the difference b/w cross-drilled and dimpled. Can you explain please. Thanks for the time you put into this GB. Oh, did you order your KONI shocks yet?
read my original post for the differeance. also google does wonders
![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#36
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
i was wondering what do you mean by dimpled brakes? are they only partially drilled instead of completely? and would you recommend those over the drilled? because i'd like to keep the rotors for a long time so i was thinking slotted/dimpled so i could get the benefits from slotted (cooling) and dimpled (for the bite) but the bite wouldn't as great as the drilled. i'm sorry for not knowing much about braking systems. thank you.
just get dimpled /slotted you'll be fine
just get dimpled /slotted you'll be fine
#39
Adult Supervision
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Originally posted by cnatra
What kind of plating do they use ??
Cadmium ????
What kind of plating do they use ??
Cadmium ????
Nah, he said they used Cadbury coatings...that lasts longer...
#40
Suzuka Master
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okay for some fucked up reason I dont seem to be getting emails from everyone, esp comcast accounts
Please just PM me if our are interested with the same info
Please just PM me if our are interested with the same info