Cams fit no problem.
Only thing spacers are for are to sit the pulleys further out to line up the belts.
After using the spacers you will have to shim the cam shaft sensors to clear the cam gears.

To elaborate on what civic said
You can keep CC but,you would run the risk of ruining the TB if you made a mistake.
you would have to work the shaft to fit the pulleys.

You could also use the acura tps but,you would have to completely chop off the end of the shaft and start grinding into the thicker part to get the correct mounting height.

The universal TB swap is not for the adverage joe.

Best to go obx 76mm and only have to worry about remote mounting icav and a little porting to the neck of the manifold to open it up as much as you can.

Also if your planning on running the mdx spacer and have to milled it in half you might as well just get longer manifolds horns it will do the same thing without the appearence of the high rise manifold.

 

The TPS must be an issue with the TB you chose. Im running all Honda sensors on mine.

 

So the cams are just shorter than our stock cams? how did you safely space them? I think when I am turning 7,000 rpms I would like to be sure everything is solid. That is why I am trying to re-use as many stock components as I can... power meeting reliability.


Yeah I can not see there being a reason for changing sensors. A lot of Honda TBs are designed for the same things, such as TPS or IACV. On my old Accord I ran a bored Prelude TB, completely different design, but all the stock sensors were retained. Just their locations changed. I had to rotate the TPS to the correct degree to make sure it read zero throttle when the plate was shut but that was the only "modification" it required.

I might just have a stock one bored for now. 70mm is better than nothing. At least I will know that the airflow and Exhaust flow will be my weakest points when the build is finished, and I will have areas to push further next year...

 

Thanks for the pic of the flywheel! Do you have one of the other side? It does have a removable friction surface right? Good work on the build, subscribed for the hp numbers/et's.

 

Yes, the friction surface is replacable. You can just make out the bolts that attach it in this pic:

 

measuring the cams to get lenths.

Also a few minutes to grind the shaft for the q45 tps or
A hour or 2 to get the lenth of the shaft cut right to get the oem key to fit that will turn the oem tps.

I don't know what I'm talking about

Pieces dissesembled from my oem TB

Some one else's pics so you can see where it goes.


The aftermarket shaft where it needs to go.
The shaft needs to be chopped off.
Then you need to grind into the thicker part of the shaft to be able to bring the sensor down to the mount.
And you will also have to knotch that shaft for the back side of the key so it will turn without slipping.
And finnally drill and tap once centered.





So why go threw the extra work to use a oem sensor when they read the same voltage ?

 

I wish Paul's 80mm setup could be flowbenched compared to the 3.7 manifold. One thing is that even it Paul's flows slightly better, the magnesium will stay much cooler, effectively reducing heat soak. Heat soak is a problem with our motors so reducing it should yield more consistent power.

 

Because it was as simple as adding an extension collar and mounting the OEM sensor


Buy mine and you can have it flowbenched

 

So your tps key is screwed right to the shaft ?
Then you added a big block to mount the tps to ?

 

Lol. You're selling the 80mm TB/manifold setup?

 

It was part of the shaft.

Yep

 

ITB's?!

 

Ah you have cable throttle though.

 

more like a BRZ

 

 

And on that bombshell.... we have to end tonight's show.

 

So today I was actually able to unpack and get the motors off the truck and onto stands in my barn. The CL-S motor looks clean as can be... only one busted oil pressure sensor and no Throttle body. The MDX motor looks like it went 175k+ (Because it did) but the valve train looks clean through the oil cap (No sludge or heavy deposit) so hopefully it was well maintained. Cant wait to start tearing these things apart and getting to the gritty.

 

That is going to be fun as hell! good luck with the motor tear down!

 

damn son... one day i'm gonna have to spring on the whole 3.5l build..

dumb question.. but can u do it without pulling the motor and work from the bottom end of the motor and just do it from underneath to remove the crank, rods and pistons??

wouldn't this make it cheaper than pulling everything out to work on it? id personally be happy with just the added 300CCs. and then doing a port and polish on everything. in time that is

 

I sure hope it is going to be as fun as I think it will be :-) thanks though.
Yeah I'm going to have everything ported and polished while I can easily do so.

You cannot work on the motor that way, the block is where your motor mounts attach so your dropping the whole motor anyways to get access to the block. Even if you could do something like that it seems like would wind up cause more trouble than helping.

Its not a fast process, I'm hoping three months maximum to get mine together, I don't have a week to just dedicate to getting it done unfortunately. You have to very meticulous and careful with this type of assembly, a piece of dirt can destroy your brand new build believe it or not. I want to get this done so I can get through my break in period and enjoy more ...spirited driving haha.

 

Think this is going to be my caliper color combination....

and that this is going to me my new base color....

 

Is that the clutch masters stage 3 setup? How do you like it honestly? That's what kit I think I'm going to run also if it is.

 

Indeed it is. Ive been running it for 53k miles without an issue. There is a spacer required for the release arm otherwise you wont get full travel.

 

Oh man super busy with school in the final few weeks but I have a question what is the thread pattern so that I can mount these motors on proper stands? 10x1.25mm is that correct?

Also picked up Neuspeed Strut bar and CT Axleback from BigdaddyKA8, Thanks again man!

 

For the clutch fork or the clutch pedal? Do you know where it goes specifically?

 

keep up the good work

 

Its on the clutch fork, right on the pivot. Some people have bent the fork to get the correct amount of travel, but that weakens the metal and it will bend back over time.

 

Ok update:
Nothing for the build.
Installed Comptech Icebox (Much quieter [boo] that Injen, but safer and seems more responsive IMO actually. Feels slightly torquier mid range.)
Installed Neuspeed strut bar. (Only slight difference in tight cornering, worth 100$ when coupled with other suspension mods)

My pressure plate lost a tine (WTF never heard of this happening?) and cause quite a bit of a problem a few weeks ago.
Just in time for Finals at school, but finals are over now. I am finishing up this weekend, but I haven't been able to drive the car, much or less do anything with it, for awhile now.
The good news: I have all the parts (including flywheel) that I will need to repair.
Bad news: I have no lift. Was going to do this when swapping motors this summer anyways. Boo.

So, needless to say, once this is corrected, I will be back on track for the build. Life does funny things sometimes.

I miss the car far more than I ever realized I would, stuck driving a 1994 accord Ex auto make me really appreciate my car (not that I didn't, but just how much it brings to my life every day I drive it.)

Puts you in a right funk when you lose your pride.

Good news is summer is here full swing, hopefully the build will gain some serious momentum!

 

I hear ya on missing the CL. Been driving my winter beater since November! Good luck with things.

 

Been so busy lately, but things are calming down so more time for the car now. Replaced my clutch, the disc that was in there came loose (the organic material) and was loose in the housing. It was a crappy brand-Luk? I found their stuff on websites like Auto parts warehouse and similar "I'm to cheap for dealership stuff so I'll pay 10% less on money a 50% less quality part" websites. The clutch was only at about half life! Either way its been 1200 miles so I'm finally broken in now, and I have to say the Exedy+AASCO flywheel is what the car should feel like. The car just accelerates so much more willingly now. Kinda like its new and eager again. The stainless slave line make the pedal a little firmer and quicker to me back. Also got the hybrid racing shifter bushings in... between all that, my shifting experience has been transformed to the sublime
just wrapped up the RL bbk last week, still bedding. The SS lines are great and the brakes bite so hard, and really make the car look so good. Got the tl-s wheels on the clear them.
Next up I was able to get the front and side motor mounts (exr8 8~ durameter) in, and that had helped minimize wheel hop greatly. Waiting to do the rear because well, I might be putting a motor in real, much sooner than I had originally anticipated

Pics later

 

 

LUK makes the OEM stuff

 

Oh I thought it was Diakin. We did it at this guys house my dad works with (he has a lift) and he's worked on Hondas for 30 years and my dad its been ten now and they both said it was not OEM equipment. Then again they probably neither have ever had to do a six speed manual.

Either way the Exedy unit feels smoother but stronger somehow. I hope it can stand up the the 3.7l that's going in...

 

Although if LUK was the OEM supplier that would make sense because I half expected the clutch to be the stock one... hmm.. I'all grab pics of the old one tonight

 

I can confirm this statement.

 

And my next mod is going to be... removing my foot from my mouth!

I just have always heard not so go things about Luk, I suppose I am very surprised. Maybe it was the original clutch then. The pressure plate had springs on the center of the hub. It looked kind of like a staged kit almost. But the clutch disc was still organic compound. I know the flywheel that was in there was the dual mass OEM one.

 

Damn, that's it... Tomorrow I'm starting my build thread. Im tired of buying shit to have it sit in the garage. Thanks for the motivation Spook!

 

Do it KA8! Speaking of the devil, you don't need anything I've got in the BM do you man? I'm I'm Silver Spring Thursday night through Friday, I wound up doing what I told you I wasn't going to do and buying a pre-built motor, I'm picking up SPoolingspOON's 3.7l. I could pass it up, I only sold everything I owned to get it haha

 

^ so you're the one...

 

I was wondering who it was going to be.

Hey, if you still want an exhaust, mine is sitting at Pauls, Ill make you a deal on it since youre there