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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #41  
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I have the accessory S2k shift knob on mine and yesterday it was 104* here. My hand is still red from grabbing it.
Tell me about! I burnt my palm yeaterday. God it was f**king HOT!!!
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Yep. I just pulled my car into the garage. This heat and humidity is disgusting out there.
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #43  
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My CL reported 102* to me yesterday. Terrible. In that dead heat, my fuel pump relay decided to quit. Luckily I have a '94 Accord that is out to pasture, and it had the same relay!
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 08:06 PM
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Yeah last 3 days 101, 100, 103. . .but I am in Charlotte . . .
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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This is now a weather thread.

I was up in NY for awhile and it was pretty hot there. Not nearly as hot as here, but the humidity still sucks. My car got up to 104 yesterday and today my moms Accord showed 106. With the heat index it was ~115-120. Tuesday looks like it will be the "coolest" day next week at only 92. But we might be back up to 100 for next weekend. The a/c in the downstairs portion of my house is struggling to keep up. We got some rain tonight that brought the temps into the 70s but its still muggy. I hate this time of year.

/thread jack
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #46  
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Re-engaging topic now:

The setup I'm pretty decided on (Making sure first, before I drop any $)for my exhaust is:

Comptech Header
XLR8 High Flow
ATLP Catback.

I know I'm going to have to wait around for a most of those parts, but its almost August, and thus here in Buffalo that means snow is about 5 days away anyways. As this is my DD I won't mind waiting until next year to get all that business going. One more year until it all rusts out.
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #47  
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Re-engaging topic now:

The setup I'm pretty decided on (Making sure first, before I drop any $)for my exhaust is:

Comptech Header
XLR8 High Flow
ATLP Catback.

I know I'm going to have to wait around for a most of those parts, but its almost August, and thus here in Buffalo that means snow is about 5 days away anyways. As this is my DD I won't mind waiting until next year to get all that business going. One more year until it all rusts out.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #48  
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RIMS CAME TODAY! WOOOOO

Sorry, I am composed again. I was really excited because I still can't believe that I lucked out like this. Now that They are here and inspected and I know for sure aren't a hoax, time to reveal my secret price:

I only paid $312 for the set!

That was shipped to my door.
18x7.5" & 5x114.3 +41 Offset.



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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 12:31 PM
  #49  
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Just ordered my CT header (you know one that fits my car properly) from HeelToe. I am so exctied. Next spring this car is going to be so much fun to drive. (Injen Intake, CT Header, XLR8 Cat and ATLP Exhaust [if the group buy works out] and TUNE) Should probably get pulleys also. All said and done shooting for 265whp 225wtq. Then Suspension work. G35 and 350z killer is my goal (Stock of course haha)
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 01:41 PM
  #50  
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You can kill a stock 350z without a tune if you have those bolt-ons.
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 06:52 PM
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What's the weight difference between the SSR's and the stock wheels?
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 08:15 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Jacobpockros
You can kill a stock 350z without a tune if you have those bolt-ons.
Originally Posted by Total2f
What's the weight difference between the SSR's and the stock wheels?
Yeah but I already have the harness and A'pexi Neo so why NOT tune ;]

The ssr Type C I have are 18lbs even. From digging on this site I see stock weight is 25-26lbs. So shaving 7-8lbs at each wheel, and increasing my stance and traction. I can't see a down side to this haha. Lucked the heck out on these.
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #53  
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Yeah rotational mass is huge when it comes to freeing up horsepower.
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 10:51 PM
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I've heard that there is a rough 10:1 rotational mass to sprung weight ratio. Something likeevery 1lbs shaved off the unsprung and rotational parts is like taking 10lbs of sprung weight off. This is in terms of track performance ie. lap times and stuff.

Don't know how true it is, I just know how much better a car feels with lightweight wheels.
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 09:03 AM
  #55  
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Nice pickup on the wheels. I rocked 18 x 7.5 Comps on my first CL then ran 17 x 8.5 on my 2nd as I wanted more performance and traction. Either set will clear a BBK and a BBK looks great behind those wheels. I think those are 17 lbs if they are the original Type-C's. The newer batch are slightly heavier and would be 18 lbs.

Regarding the K-Sports, I ran D2 coilovers which are similar on my first CL and my roommate had K-Sports on his 6th gen Accord. They rode very similar and are quite stiff.

My mechanic is running Tein-Flex? from an Acura TSX on his 1st gen TL (swapped 3.5 Supercharged 6 speed) with the dampening module and I was going to run the same setup as well, but my car got totalled before I had the chance.

Last edited by JBlueCLS6; Aug 2, 2011 at 09:07 AM.
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #56  
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Here's a comparison

18' SSR's with Rotora BBK




17' SSR's with RL BBK

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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by JBlueCLS6
Nice pickup on the wheels. I rocked 18 x 7.5 Comps on my first CL then ran 17 x 8.5 on my 2nd as I wanted more performance and traction. Either set will clear a BBK and a BBK looks great behind those wheels. I think those are 17 lbs if they are the original Type-C's. The newer batch are slightly heavier and would be 18 lbs.

Regarding the K-Sports, I ran D2 coilovers which are similar on my first CL and my roommate had K-Sports on his 6th gen Accord. They rode very similar and are quite stiff.

My mechanic is running Tein-Flex? from an Acura TSX on his 1st gen TL (swapped 3.5 Supercharged 6 speed) with the dampening module and I was going to run the same setup as well, but my car got totalled before I had the chance.
I need to meet your mechanic and see this car
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 09:48 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by StreetKA
I need to meet your mechanic and see this car
Several people know him (Korean Jae) on these forums. He's kinda a PITA to get a hold of sometimes (isn't active on any forums) but he was probably one of the first (before ftty) to do the swap and have all functions (gauge cluster/speedometer was a problem when people were first doing the swaps). Dude knows his shit with J series and has been working on J32/35/36 series swaps since 2003.

He isn't running that setup anymore (3.5 + Supercharger + ClutchMasters setup), he dropped that into Mikey's (dude with Custom Blue Accord) 6th gen coupe.

He is still running his 3.2 6 speed swap though. He even has the CL-S front seats/navigation installed.
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 10:07 AM
  #59  
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https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/not-cl-but-one-heart-03-3-5l-cl-s-56k-753871/
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 11:25 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by JBlueCLS6
Nice pickup on the wheels. I think those are 17 lbs if they are the original Type-C's. The newer batch are slightly heavier and would be 18 lbs.

Regarding the K-Sports

my car got totalled before I had the chance.
Thanks haha. I would be an idiot to have not gotten them at that price. You are correct though these are the first batch, the rim is only 17lbs. The first batch are also true one piece vs the second batch being two piece or am I mistaken on that? Btw thatnks for the picture, they make me realize I don't just want but NEED a BBK before next spring when these rims go on haha. Thanks for the pics! I'm leaning towards the RL calipers. My dad is a Honda tech so I get parts at cost I.E. new RL calipers are as much as used to me heehee. They are so sexy. Just have to find those brackets.

And I decided against the K sports. Living here in Buffalo I would be faced with frozen coils or taking them on and off for winter as my car is DD. So after seeing many pics and hearing many positive reviews I'm back at the Eibach pro kit. Decent drop and fixed height saves me a lot of frustration.

I'm sorry to hear you car was wrecked :[

Originally Posted by StreetKA
I need to meet your mechanic and see this car
^+1
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:25 AM
  #61  
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Spoke with Paul and ordered some RL caliper brackets today. That is the hardest of all parts to find so glad that is done. Jblue your pics are getting me excited to put all this on next spring.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 05:03 AM
  #62  
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AcuraSpook, I have to admit I was a bit worried about the direction you were going in your first few posts. No offense. Since then it looks like you're making informed choices which is good. I don't know 10% of what these other guys do but I know they're very helpful if you do a little of your homework ahead of time. I look forward to following your build. I will say I'm not feeling the bronze, gold, amber combo up front on the car. Too many colors in the yellow family set against that beautiful anthracite paint. Personally, I would Plasti-Dip the "A" emblems, finish debadging the trunk "A-C-U-R-A" letters and clear the headlights. You might even try Plasti-Dipping the painted piece on the headlight for a true blacked out effect. Those things and a drop would really clean the car up, inexpensively!! Bonus if you Plasti-Dip the chrome around the windows! Being that you like darker colors, I think those mods will give you that muted, menacing look. Next spring when the SSR's and RL "BBK" go on, you'll be even better!

Couple other things, if you find some not-so-aesthetically-pleasing used CT headers, you can have them Jet Hot coated and not only will the shine last, they'll cut down on under hood temps as well. Try finding some used springs to get the monster truck look gone...at least temporarily. Thanks for listening to me.

JBlue-what rotors are those behind the 17's/RL combo?

Last edited by Blitz; Aug 6, 2011 at 05:07 AM. Reason: added info
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 10:25 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Blitz
AcuraSpook, I have to admit I was a bit worried about the direction you were going in your first few posts. No offense. Couple other things, if you find some not-so-aesthetically-pleasing used CT headers, you can have them Jet Hot coated and not only will the shine last, they'll cut down on under hood temps as well. Try finding some used springs to get the monster truck look gone...at least temporarily. Thanks for listening to me.

JBlue-what rotors are those behind the 17's/RL combo?
I tend to worry people all the time, I am used to it

Yeah the Bronze wheels were never a solution, just something to do with my winter rims. I actually show my true colors and taste with the Type Cs. Now I know I am probably going to blow everyones socks off and go back to worrying folks, but the car isn't staying Gray. My buddy is an excellent autobody guy and since I have minor rust in the wheel wells, we are going to fix that and paint the car this fall.

It is going to be painted White. probably championship white like the Type R Hondas, not eggshell but not super pearly either. Just the right amount of pearl. Maybe now the Gold emblems will make more sense. Also yes plasticoating the chrome trim is in the future. I however do enjoy the ACURA on the back. I like clean but I don't think it looks bad. Kinda really adds to the sleeper illusion that I am going for if you ask me.

As for used CT headers for the 6speed, it just wasn't happenening. I looked for the past 3 months and there wasn't anything comeing up. I already ordered them new from HeelToe anyways so that chapter is closed. They will be coated though, I always coat my headers, Buffalo is brutal on steel parts. I also am getting a skid plate so my 1100$ header isn't destroyed when I lower haha.

Funny you mention used springs, I just PM'ed a member in the BM yesterday about some Eibachs. Just waiting for the shipping coat to Paypal. Then in the spring I am going to do a whole new setup. We must think alike haha.

Lastely, those are the Rotara BBK rotors if I am not mistaken aren't they Jblue?
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #64  
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OH and I forgot I called up XLR8 yesterday and ordered the stock UR pulley set. Figured while I was doing the timing belt and water pump anyways right?
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 10:48 AM
  #65  
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Theyre 350Z Nismo Edition rotors.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #66  
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Ok. So OEM?
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 11:20 AM
  #67  
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Get whatever fits that model. Going to the dealer for those is going to cost an arm and a leg.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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Stupid *Facepalm* You even said RL combo. I was thinking first picture. I am probably gong to go with the EBC black coated ones and EBC Red Stuff. I've seen that other people have used this combo on the RL calipers and have had good success.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #69  
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I like the EBC blacks but I'm also looking for a drilled/slotted set. Haven't found a manufacturer that does them...YET. Well DBA makes some but right now that's too many dollars.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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If it says "Z" it always a lot of dollars haha. That is why I want to build my CL, it's not a Z but damn if I am not going to give them a run for their money! Course with I/P/H/TP/E and a tune I'll only have a slight edge on stock Zs haha
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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By the way Civic, wtf is up with StreetKA and your new avatars? I noticed sometimes I watch them even though I know what is going to happen haha... very distracting.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Blitz
I like the EBC blacks but I'm also looking for a drilled/slotted set. Haven't found a manufacturer that does them...YET. Well DBA makes some but right now that's too many dollars.
I wouldnt go with drilled/dimpled rotors. There is less surface area and they tend to warp and crack easier. Stick with blanks or just slotted.

Originally Posted by AcuraSpook
By the way Civic, wtf is up with StreetKA and your new avatars? I noticed sometimes I watch them even though I know what is going to happen haha... very distracting.
Thats the point
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #73  
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I think slotted tend to warp more often than drilled because drilled stay cooler because of the holes
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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I've seen/heard lots of discussion on the subject. The topic is sort of like Hollywood marriages...I don't put my faith in it completely. I would say pads, driving style, and heat cycle have a greater influence than rotor selection.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 01:14 PM
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This^^^^

Originally Posted by civicdrivr

Thats the point
Bastard. I'm at work here trying to get stuff done.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacobpockros
I think slotted tend to warp more often than drilled because drilled stay cooler because of the holes
The drill holes are not for cooling. In fact, they are worse for dissipating heat. The only thing the drill holes do are release the gas buildup that shitty pads produce. The veins running in the center of rotor are for cooling. Slotted rotors are good for removing the glazing on shitty pads as well as removing the gas build up I mentioned before.

Both are mainly for looks. The thing slotted rotors have over drilled rotors is they are less prone to cracking and have more surface area for you to stop with. Blanks are truly the way to go, but if you want something for the bling factor, stick with slotted.

http://www.myasylum.com/cars/messages/44.html
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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I was going to say drilled are the worst in terms of structural integrity. The slotted are cast that way, but drilled are machined after the casting process (Causing stress and uneven pressure distribution)
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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Yep. Thats why they crack so easily.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 01:15 AM
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Trying to find a Type S in the junk yard in Buffalo is ridiculous. I love how rare and unknown these cars are, but damn I am just trying to find a seat to replace the tear in mine. I found 3 cl/tl pees in all Buffalo and no Type S yet. Most yards have no clue when I call and ask for a CL Type S haha.

Worst part the whole reason I bought a CL-S is my friend had one up until 4 months ago and I always loved it. So I go and get mine and I see him a few weeks later and he tells me some lady took the front end off his car and it was totaled! He had a NBP 2001 CL-S.

Now he is trying to see if Nationwide will give him the information of where the car went. I hope he can track it down so I can pull every last usable part off that car.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 02:03 AM
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IIRC Nspec_ya4 said that the 6-Speed's need to use a seat from a 6-Speed to be fully compatible. As weird as that sounds, it's supposedly true. He figured it out when he was doing his 6-speed swap.
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