Sorry JCharged. I know you ha your eyes on it.

I wanted to do the 3.5 build really bad. I only had about 1500 saved to do it all and then this came up, and I realized I wouldn't even be driving my 3.5 for a year still. I looked at cost vs. return on my build vs. this and the answer was clear. I'd have spent more on mine for smaller displacement and less output. I trust this motor because Paul built it, and Eddie sounds like he poured a lot into it and took are of it.

So my fiance is convinced I lost it because I blew my savings, sold all my video game systems, my laptop my bedroom TV and my surround sound system to buy this beast haha.

Oh well. Its a passion. Few get it.

I wish I could grab that Morgan, I'm told this monster needs at least 2.5" exhaust to be happy, but as I've just explained, I'm tapped out. I have a ps3, a TV and my car (along with some parts I'm trying to sell in BM lol) if overnight I manage to get a reasonable sum I'll let you know. Thank you though.

 

I have 2.5" exhaust parts if you need that I could donate to you. You would just have to buy flanges. Paul could maybe fab it for you.

I'm glad it was someone who was going to put that beast to use. So I'm not that mad

 

Hopefully you can rebuild your savings quickly (and then buy my exhaust ).

 

Wow, that is a kind offer! Im not sure I'd be comfortable not having anything to offer and all. I actually have two 2.5" flanges actually and some comp tech axle backs. Have 2.5" Xlr8 HFC. I just need my comp techs modified to have a 2.5" collector. Probably a resonator too huh?

haha. What diameter piping is the comptech again? And is it the 2.5" collector x's headers? My new comp techs are only 2.25"

 

Yes, the XS headers have the 2.5" collector/jpipe and the b-pipe is 2.5".

Fun fact - CT made the b-pipe 2.5" but used a 2.25" flange (its been replaced with a 2.5" v-band on my setup).

Since you already have the axlebacks, Ive got one guy interested in them. So you'd only use the headers, cat, and b-pipe. The Magnaflow HFC on my setup is actually a 3" cat, but its tapered down to 2.5". It acts like a megaphone to speed up exhaust velocity.

 

Why did you ditch that exhausted again? I can't remember what you said before...

 

I went to a full 3".

 

Suppose that should be in my future too, next year maybe. I need to pay some attention to suspension this coming year. I am waiting out the whole traction bar thread...
I'm always going to find a way to spend on this car aren't I?

P.s. what year MDX injectors are the best ones, would my 02 mdx 3.5l injectors be better than the CL-S? Or are they the newer mdx injectors? Thanks...

 

MDX? Do you mean RDX?

 

i think he meant MDX because he had an MDX engine ready for his build?? But didn't Spoolin have some RDX injectors and other goodies he was going to install?

 

I have no use for it. I'm going 3" as well.

OT, We all wanted to do a J-series track day mentioned in other threads. Now that you are soon to be swapped and part of the "fast" crowd, you should join us.

I think most of us are in the East coast. How does Honda Day in NJ August 11-12 sound for a mutual meet spot?

 

I could get RDX injectors for a fair price with Pigtails and clips included. That is unless you wanted a direct drop-in solution. Look into RSX or S2K injectors.

 

I meant RDX

I will see what is on the schedule at work, and if it is offending, see what I can do about getting down to Honda days. I want to see other like-CLs in person!

So Civic, JCharged, you two both used stock Ecu for a period right? All I've got is Neo to tune correct A/F and I'm going to get wideband before I put her in, I just wanted to make sure if I have to use the stock ECU for a bit that it won't be disastrous (wide and either way... to much money to melt down over mistake haha)

 

And thank you JCharged, but let's just say I managed to figure out the Exhaust situation

 

 

Lady's and Gents, I give you the J37 MR Honda Fit, a world first!

PS, I moved the straps so they werent on the manifold studs

 

Im still running the stock ECU. IIRC, Eddie didnt have any issues running the 3.7 on the Type S ecu. If you open up the intake, you'd want to get some fuel management at the very least. Same if you install the RDX injectors.

Did Paul show you my new manifold?

 

He didn't show me, but he did tell me what you're up too... all I can say is that is going to amazing when it is done. You truly are trail blazing haha.

 

Stock ECU. I have the EMS2 as a paperweight right now.

 

that's no good.

Anyone have success with the NEO for fuel... I know Paul said F/IC just plain doesn't work.

Civic, what brand vbands am I using here, and what did you have it sealed with? Paul must have had it all broken down, he had it ready all disassembled. He gave me the hard ware but the v bands are all shot....

Going to go mad selling stuff to get everything ready so I can (hopefully) jet down for Honda Days.

So far before I swap I still need:
Fuel pressure regulator
V band clamps
Some sort of sealant for v bands
Belts for UR underdrive crank pulley
Air/Fuel gauge (not ruining this motor)

Not to bad. Hoping to have in done in a month.

 

IIRC theyre Vibrant v-bands.

 

What fuel pressure regulator should I use?
Eddie said he had the Aeromotive one, but no clue on the model number.
He said to get a mid 13 a/f they had to crank the fpr to ~60psi.

I was looking at the AEM one as they only adjust up to 60psi, and they come pre barbed with -6an fittings.
The would make it plug and play wouldn't it?

I am getting so excited about dropping this motor in. Just need to get my ducks in a row, I don't want/need day of surprises.

 

I think Im running a 100psi fpr from KTuned.

 

I am running a fuelab one. I have a spare one I could send you with the lines if you want.

 

That would be beautiful JCharged. I went for broke to get the motor, just in the final mile now. PM me your price or you can text it to me 716-foursixtwo-8506.
Then I would only need a wideband before she goes in. ($200 is cheap insurance against a 3k motor)

Also thinking the organic disc that went in with the AASCO flywheel not last long under the new tq, so thinking of picking up a P2R 6 puck while I'm there. Reasonable and increased performance. All that power won't matter if my clutch slips. Brand new bearings and pressure plate and flywheel so it should be ok. I emailed p2r to double check though.

Still got some time before she goes in, but this summer heck or high water.

 

Oh and ordered band clamps.
Ceramic black is the header coating now.

Sleepy sleepy for me

 

When are you going to stop be so and start a new build thread...

 

No price. I'll hook you up. I know what you mean about going for broke. I've done it many times and I'm about to do it again on another project.

Also, welcome to the stroker family :gheyhug:

 

NEVER!!!! Muaahahahahahahahahahha








Ok, eventually, I just need to figure out what Im going to do with the damn thing. The build may "change shapes"

 

Alright well sold my comp tech headers, and was able to get the rest of what I needed.

AEM Wideband for tuning and monitoring, seeing as that is all I can do.
P2R 6puck ceramic clutch. Figure that plus my AASCO flywheel will mean fast revs and quick shifts. Plus better tq capacity. Exedy OEM replacement pressure plate.
Got the correct V Band Clamps, gaskets and RTV for the exhaust system.
Installed the P2R fuel rails Eddie gave me with the motor.
After investigating, picked up a k tuned fpr like Civic, it is just an excellent price for the fpr and gauge.
Just finishing on building the fuel plumbing.
Not going to lie, this has been stressful as I knew nothing of AN plumbing a few days ago.
So far I have the line routing down, and have almost everything I need.

I do need information though to finish.

Can anyone tell me what the Fuel line and return line piping sizes are so that I can get the correct pipe sleeves? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
I am trying to run -6an line everywhere, that is the size that the rails accept. So far I've worked out the flow fuel pattern like this: (the stock setup is one center feed eight the first rail feeding the second.)
Fuel pipe to pressure regulator to tee. Tee arm one is going to a dual feed line connected to both rails, each plugged at the back. Tee arm two is the return line.

Any help with this would be appreciated. All I had to figure out what I was doing was 4 fuzzy pics from Paul's build thread on v6 performance lol. Every day it gets closer and closer.

 

Thanks JCharged. I actually sold off my comp tech headers so I was able to get the $ I really really appreciate the offer though. I just try not to owe people if I can help it. I'm really weird about that and like to do things myself if I can. I can't wait to officially be in the family, I'm more like an initiate right now, but soon she goes in, and so do I!

If you are talking about what I think you are, that would be the first 3.6l swap I've heard of. Everyone just puts 3.5 mdx or oddessy in for big displacement. You'd have the best of all of it.

PS civic
Are you still trying to sell your 80mm tb/manifold setup? I think I might be able to use something like that.... :wink:

 

 

I dont believe you can use that disk with the AASCO flywheel since its unsprung.

I will be selling it. Im just waiting for a few things to be finished up before it comes off.

BTW, I cant help with the fuel line sizes. Im worthless when it comes to AN fittings.

 

Judas Priest what a waste of money. I had no idea that you couldn't have certain fw/hub combos until right now. Feeling like a pm idiot.
Could have built my 4" intake with the money instead. So do you guys think I'll be ok with 300whp/280wtq on a brand new exedy clutch?It's is an OEM replacement, but from what I have heard even their OEM replacement stuff is rated higher than stock parts.

Now do I stick my stock fw back and waste 500 bucks there or try and sell my $200 disc? Probably the latter, the exedy is broken in and I like the FW,shifts are already very quick. Firmer than stock but still wonderful in everyday driving.

Anyways, thanks Civic. LMK when you move the manifold/tb setup(TL SH-AWD Mani right?). I am interested. Paul point blank told me the HP is far lower than it should be because it isn't breathing enough. Hence your setup haha.




Any one for stock fuel pipe diameters?

 

Id keep the lightweight flywheel. Eddie was running the stock clutch setup and IIRC it was holding fine.

My current manifold is a Type S manifold thats been ported and also has plenum spacers. It definitely breathes.

 

So probably the same setup that I have on Eddies motor (Paul's Plenum and tb spacers, plus ported and polished.) Except my TB is only an OEM p&p one, and is definitely my choke point now.

I figured the lightweight wheel plus exedy would keep me happier in day to day operations. It is brand new after all... should last awhile even under abuse. Probably better for day to day, no chatter.

Have a Walbro 255lph (part number gss342) on the way, going to be using a new OEM filter and strainer. Few more an fittings and some tube sleeves to fit my new fuel plumbing to the stock pipes and I am ready. I'm giddy like a child on the eve of Christmas.

 

Its similar to Eddies, but I do have another mod in there.

 

Gotta love this ninja shit! It's always humorous to check in on you guys! I posted on your BM thread regarding the high flow cat. I might be interested if I can gather the funds. I'm tired of wishing I had my parts on and collecting shit! I'm going to try and get my headers on so the cat would be beneficial. Also any words of wisdom besides patience and PB blaster for the headers? I'm itching to put the blower on but need the headers on first. Build is looking sweet btw. Keep up the good work and when you get frustrated just think about the smile on your face at wot with the stroker in!

 

Guess whos back.......
If this mod is the one we were discussing about, did the mod work

I ran stock clutch and it was holding fine.

What a/f wideband did you get? AEM UEGO?


On a side note my E46 rear subframe is broke problem with these cars but it was going to happen at some point. Got a couple quotes in the area at 1400-1800. I think im gonna do it. There goes the $ from the motor. Always something.

 

Eddie! I guess youre not too cool with your Bimmer to come back and say hi to us bottom feeder Acura owners

I honestly dont remember which mod we spoke about a while ago. I've had too many :ninja mods

Sucks about the subframe though. Somewhat similar - my mom used to have a '78 320i, and the rear strut towers rusted away. The car had over 300k miles on it when that happened though, so I guess it paid its dues.

Does it crack due to stress? I know the E36/8 M Coupes had issues with the rear diff mounts shearing off. I still want one though.