AcuraSpook's Build Thread.
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Well that is it, I am not bailing so easily on this car 
I decided I will be rolling with this car long enough to actually spend some $$ and make this car all that it can be...
I ordered the Comptech Ice Box
P2R thermal taskets (All)
P2R TL SH-AWD intake manifold TB adapter
Exedy OEM clutch replacement
AASCO aluminum flywheel
Comptech short throw shifter
Hybrid Racing shifter bushings
Stainess steel clutch line
XLR8 75a mounts
XLR8 high flow cat
Stainless brake lines
Won some RL calipers on Ebay
EBC red stuff pads
EBC USR Slotted sportimax 12.8" Rotors
Got two motors also for a few hundred each:
J35a4 from 02 MDX
j32a2 from 01 Cl Type S (only 68k!!!)
Going to tear down and service the block and heads from the j32a2,
tear out the rotating assembly from the j35a4 and have that all machined and treated back to tolerance (Hopefully be able to afford a crank lightening, I have heard so many good things about that procedure.)
Then I am going to make sure the mdx block is serviceable, and bore each cylinder .25mm and stuff the .25mm over bore RL pistons in the block along with the MDX rotating assembly. Replace bearings and seals and gaskets.
Re-assemble with the UR pulleys and Comp-tech headers and new water pump, timing belt, tensioner, all right on board.
My father is going to be handling the engine assembly, hopefully I will be able to learn a lot about this process. He said we can probably just drop the sub frame out with the motor attached and swap it all on the ground then stuff it back up in. Hoping to be done with this in two months so that the brake bedding and engine break in and the clutch break in period can all expire while it is still nice out around here. I want to go hunt some older mustangs and corvettes haha.
Figuring with the A'PEXi Neo and harness I have I can at least get a decent street tune, and am shooting for a solid 280whp. that would mean well over 300 at the crank, reasonable enough for me. I just wish these cars were RWD so much so. They would be perfect haha.
Next year I'll redo the suspension and hopefully get a catback, that should keep me happy until I cave and spend to put a blower in.
I decided I will be rolling with this car long enough to actually spend some $$ and make this car all that it can be...
I ordered the Comptech Ice Box
P2R thermal taskets (All)
P2R TL SH-AWD intake manifold TB adapter
Exedy OEM clutch replacement
AASCO aluminum flywheel
Comptech short throw shifter
Hybrid Racing shifter bushings
Stainess steel clutch line
XLR8 75a mounts
XLR8 high flow cat
Stainless brake lines
Won some RL calipers on Ebay
EBC red stuff pads
EBC USR Slotted sportimax 12.8" Rotors
Got two motors also for a few hundred each:
J35a4 from 02 MDX
j32a2 from 01 Cl Type S (only 68k!!!)
Going to tear down and service the block and heads from the j32a2,
tear out the rotating assembly from the j35a4 and have that all machined and treated back to tolerance (Hopefully be able to afford a crank lightening, I have heard so many good things about that procedure.)
Then I am going to make sure the mdx block is serviceable, and bore each cylinder .25mm and stuff the .25mm over bore RL pistons in the block along with the MDX rotating assembly. Replace bearings and seals and gaskets.
Re-assemble with the UR pulleys and Comp-tech headers and new water pump, timing belt, tensioner, all right on board.
My father is going to be handling the engine assembly, hopefully I will be able to learn a lot about this process. He said we can probably just drop the sub frame out with the motor attached and swap it all on the ground then stuff it back up in. Hoping to be done with this in two months so that the brake bedding and engine break in and the clutch break in period can all expire while it is still nice out around here. I want to go hunt some older mustangs and corvettes haha.
Figuring with the A'PEXi Neo and harness I have I can at least get a decent street tune, and am shooting for a solid 280whp. that would mean well over 300 at the crank, reasonable enough for me. I just wish these cars were RWD so much so. They would be perfect haha.
Next year I'll redo the suspension and hopefully get a catback, that should keep me happy until I cave and spend to put a blower in.
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Thanks.
Somehow it all feels right, sticking with this car for awhile. I know she isn't ever going to be RWD, but the comfort, and cheaper parts, (Dad hooks me up haha) and the rarity of this car suits me.
I love that so many other drivers have no idea what to make of it when they see it, they have no gauge on what they are capable of.
I am low on money now though, and still need the machine work. Anybody tell me what a reasonable figure to guess what the machine work will cost?
I am hoping like less than 600$ (perhaps I am too optimistic though.)
I am saving a ton in labor though, the whole build is probably going to be well below 2k though which isn't bad IMO for the level of power and reliability I will have.
That only leaves suspension work, and exhaust, and tranny rebuild, and this will be an all new car, capable of another decade of good fun haha.
Somehow it all feels right, sticking with this car for awhile. I know she isn't ever going to be RWD, but the comfort, and cheaper parts, (Dad hooks me up haha) and the rarity of this car suits me.
I love that so many other drivers have no idea what to make of it when they see it, they have no gauge on what they are capable of.
I am low on money now though, and still need the machine work. Anybody tell me what a reasonable figure to guess what the machine work will cost?
I am hoping like less than 600$ (perhaps I am too optimistic though.)
I am saving a ton in labor though, the whole build is probably going to be well below 2k though which isn't bad IMO for the level of power and reliability I will have.
That only leaves suspension work, and exhaust, and tranny rebuild, and this will be an all new car, capable of another decade of good fun haha.
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Well I forgot that RL BBK doesn't clear stock CL-S rims, so I just picked up a set of 2008 TL-S rims. I will just stretch the S-drives from 225 to 235. I doubt they will look wonderful but they will be lighter and clear the BBK. Next year I will have to get some decent rims. My stupid but sold the Type C SSRs because I was offered 1000$ from them and I paid 300$ I was a little tight at the time then, so I took the offer.
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
good stuff!!
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
The pile grows, my patience diminishes. I cant wait for this summer. The engines are en route finally. Paid 700+150$ for motors+Shipping for the MDX motor and a 68K 01 CL-S motor. Going to build everything in the 68k CL-S Block and heads (Pending no nasty surprises) and then do the swap in one day. Minimal down time, getting all the parts like Pulleys and headers and timing belts and tensioner on is easier, will be a perfect opportunity to install the AASCO Flywheel and Exedy Clutch I have coming....
Needless to say I am super excited. I would like to have this all in and breaking in by June's end. That gives me about three months.
Needless to say I am super excited. I would like to have this all in and breaking in by June's end. That gives me about three months.
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Most importantly the mdx motor was $250, I can rob the rotating assembly and sell off at least $200 in parts to put back into the build. I only need the crank and rods. Plus I heard the injectors were the same CC but better spray pattern.
The idea is that I can build the whole motor separate. Then when swap day comes, it will literally be plug and play. Everything should just swap over neatly. Then I'll have a parts motor or something to sell off in order to keep my modding moving forward. A working CL-S motor should be worth a few hundred I can then put back into the suspension or something. Especially with J-swaps becoming so popular...
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Plus I'm a sucker for the RL look. Big old OEM ACURA staring back at people on the highway...
Thanks! I was unaware that XLR8 was doing anything to make a new kit. That should be nice when it comes out, they are one of the few shops that actually seem to dedicate their time to our car...
Plus I'm a sucker for the RL look. Big old OEM ACURA staring back at people on the highway...
Plus I'm a sucker for the RL look. Big old OEM ACURA staring back at people on the highway...
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Yeah I think they don't realize what they have until the see it out of context...
Less attention is better. Not every civic and cobalt will try to rice past me because I have a set of rims on.
sums it up nicely 
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
The CL-S6 is such an odd ball segment. 260 horse, but pulls even harder than most around that, and there aren't many. 350z/g35 are really the only legit segment match up on paper.
Then on the road I find the CL-S6 barks well up other 'bigger' dogs' trees. It's really odd.
Agreed. As I mentioned in one of Fox's threads, the CL can definitely punch above its weight class.
Ive hung with cars I clearly shouldnt have. But out here most of the cars I want to race dont want to "waste" their time
When I do get a fair race, its usually these damn ricers that dont even require me to downshift. 
Ive hung with cars I clearly shouldnt have. But out here most of the cars I want to race dont want to "waste" their time
When I do get a fair race, its usually these damn ricers that dont even require me to downshift.
03 CLS-6
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 123
Lmao exactly!! Before we raced I actually had one of the guys I ran last weekend driving the k series car say he would never expect that from my car it's a true sleeper since he saw me race the wrx sti earlier. Then after the race he said that's the fast cl he's ever seen in his life lol. I was laughing that whole night about what happened and peoples reactions.
Last edited by 1foxbody; Apr 4, 2012 at 01:22 AM.
In search of excitement
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 366
Likes: 57
From: NYC/Rochester
Spook, have you tried the short shifter part of that kit yet? I was skeptical when I saw it online.
8th Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
I was wondering what car do those calipers come from that say acura on them?
And do those rotos that are black, do you have better performance than some normal colored ones that are drilled and slotted?
Also are these good upgrades: radiator (3 or 4 rows) and transmission cooler (I want to used braided lines)?
And do those rotos that are black, do you have better performance than some normal colored ones that are drilled and slotted?
Also are these good upgrades: radiator (3 or 4 rows) and transmission cooler (I want to used braided lines)?
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Lmao exactly!! Before we raced I actually had one of the guys I ran last weekend driving the k series car say he would never expect that from my car it's a true sleeper since he saw me race the wrx sti earlier. Then after the race he said that's the fast cl he's ever seen in his life lol. I was laughing that whole night about what happened and peoples reactions.
Agreed. As I mentioned in one of Fox's threads, the CL can definitely punch above its weight class.
Ive hung with cars I clearly shouldnt have. But out here most of the cars I want to race dont want to "waste" their time When I do get a fair race, its usually these damn ricers that dont even require me to downshift.
Ive hung with cars I clearly shouldnt have. But out here most of the cars I want to race dont want to "waste" their time
When I do get a fair race, its usually these damn ricers that dont even require me to downshift. Same boat. It's bad in Buffalo because all the nice cars are only out for ~ four months. So the only things I ever see that are fair races during the non summer months are Mustangs and Camaros... not exactly exciting match ups.
Lately I have seen a few things like Genesis =around though... and the 3.8l seem be just about in our realm....
I was wondering what car do those calipers come from that say acura on them?
And do those rotos that are black, do you have better performance than some normal colored ones that are drilled and slotted?
Also are these good upgrades: radiator (3 or 4 rows) and transmission cooler (I want to used braided lines)?
And do those rotos that are black, do you have better performance than some normal colored ones that are drilled and slotted?
Also are these good upgrades: radiator (3 or 4 rows) and transmission cooler (I want to used braided lines)?
05+ Acura Rl
They are coated to prevent rust. The black will wear off where the pads touch still... but the rest will remain nice. Especially important here in Buff,the rust is a killer. Color doesn't affect performance :wink:
Tranny cooler for Auto: Yes
Radiator: only is you are running really high boost or some crazy track setup. These cars usually don't have over heating problems.
The Genesis' arent that difficult to beat. Theyre heavy. Ive beaten one of the V8 sedans too. I havent raced any of the new coupes yet though. The new V6 should be an exciting race.
And whenever I go from a stop, I do a "street launch". I roll out for about 5 feet then get on - and I still end up having to pedal it.
And whenever I go from a stop, I do a "street launch". I roll out for about 5 feet then get on - and I still end up having to pedal it.
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
The Genesis' arent that difficult to beat. Theyre heavy. Ive beaten one of the V8 sedans too. I havent raced any of the new coupes yet though. The new V6 should be an exciting race.
And whenever I go from a stop, I do a "street launch". I roll out for about 5 feet then get on - and I still end up having to pedal it.
And whenever I go from a stop, I do a "street launch". I roll out for about 5 feet then get on - and I still end up having to pedal it.
) but after that I walked away like he was standing still. I waved as I drove by and he lost it hahaha. I'm on eibachs... Really isn't anything more I can do besides coils....
03 CLS-6
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 123
How much did you pay for the aasco flywheel if you don't mind saying? Any pictures?
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
I'll post pictures when I get it :wink:
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Motors came!!!
So did flywheel and motor mounts and P2R thermo blockers/adaptors.
Also going in two weeks to pick up CT mufflers (Thanks Bigdaddyka8!) and going next week to pick up a 3/ valve job head from Rush. That means I only need a TL SH manifold and the RL pistons and various rings, seals and gaskets and all the parts are assembled. Then it is a matter of time and machine work. So excited that this is all coming together so nicely. Considering that my father and I are doing all the labor this really is not costing me as much as I had feared...
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Ok just t clarify some things... I would love for those with actual first hand experience to chime in here. I have done a lot of reading on these subjects to try and sift out the crap from the correct. There are a lot of thread that do not actually verify or deny claims and I really need to try and get all this straight. Anyone who can legitimately make a claim or answer please do so...
Motor Questions
All CL-S and TL-S motors are the same. There is not a single difference between the two. t/f
There is a difference between the CL-S 6 speed motor and every other j32a2, the difference is only the addition/absence of the VSA module and the camshaft Position sensor. The mechanical aspects are identical across all J32a2. (Camshaft, Block, crank, pistons, rods, bearings, valve springs, valves, ect) t/f
For the 3.5l MDX swap, the crank and beearings and rods are used from the MDX motor. The Pistons and rings come from either 01-03 CL-S or 05+ RL. t/f
The RL piston actually has 11:1 compression ration in the 3.5l build (There were descrepencies on that point that I could not verify.) t/f
The 05+ TL Type S valve spring may be used in the 01-03 CL-S and 01-03 TL-S with the 05+ TL-S retainers. These springs are stiffer than the stock CL-S and help prevent valve float/allow for a more aggressive camshaft. t/f
The j32a2 block is best for the 3.5l swap due to it having stronger steel sleeves. This helps with the heat and forces created during high rev operation. t/f
The MDX crank and block is superior to the Oddy crank due to the MDX crank being forged. t/f
There are no performance camshafts for the J series. The only thing available are regrinds by Bisimoto (through Webcam) There is not any end user testing of this cam re-grind, but is not a good choice for reliability reasons. t/f
Oddy, MDX and CL(S)+TL(S) motors all have interchangeable blocks. The j32a2 head is the highest performance head from the factory. The Oddy block is inferior to the MDX/CL(S)+TL(S) blocks, which both have forged internals vs. cast. t/f
The 05+ TL-S camshaft is usable in the 01-03 CL-S and 01-03 TL-S. This however requires a shim to properly fit, and shows minimal gains. NO machine work is required to any other part of the head. The only noticeable major benefit is the lighter weight because the 05+ TL-S cams are hollow t/f
With the P2R adapter, the 09+ TL-SH AWD affixes to the j32a2 head .With electrical work this setup retains the j32a2 butterflies. t/f
The above mentioned IM has roughly a ~75mm opening, but the stock j32a2 TB may only be bored to ~71mm. t/f
That is all I can think of right now. I will be compiling all of this stuff to hopefully create a huge resource with a ton of FAQ and not so FAQ to help people with upgrades and swaps for the CL-S and TL-S. Thanks again guys.
Motor Questions
All CL-S and TL-S motors are the same. There is not a single difference between the two. t/f
There is a difference between the CL-S 6 speed motor and every other j32a2, the difference is only the addition/absence of the VSA module and the camshaft Position sensor. The mechanical aspects are identical across all J32a2. (Camshaft, Block, crank, pistons, rods, bearings, valve springs, valves, ect) t/f
For the 3.5l MDX swap, the crank and beearings and rods are used from the MDX motor. The Pistons and rings come from either 01-03 CL-S or 05+ RL. t/f
The RL piston actually has 11:1 compression ration in the 3.5l build (There were descrepencies on that point that I could not verify.) t/f
The 05+ TL Type S valve spring may be used in the 01-03 CL-S and 01-03 TL-S with the 05+ TL-S retainers. These springs are stiffer than the stock CL-S and help prevent valve float/allow for a more aggressive camshaft. t/f
The j32a2 block is best for the 3.5l swap due to it having stronger steel sleeves. This helps with the heat and forces created during high rev operation. t/f
The MDX crank and block is superior to the Oddy crank due to the MDX crank being forged. t/f
There are no performance camshafts for the J series. The only thing available are regrinds by Bisimoto (through Webcam) There is not any end user testing of this cam re-grind, but is not a good choice for reliability reasons. t/f
Oddy, MDX and CL(S)+TL(S) motors all have interchangeable blocks. The j32a2 head is the highest performance head from the factory. The Oddy block is inferior to the MDX/CL(S)+TL(S) blocks, which both have forged internals vs. cast. t/f
The 05+ TL-S camshaft is usable in the 01-03 CL-S and 01-03 TL-S. This however requires a shim to properly fit, and shows minimal gains. NO machine work is required to any other part of the head. The only noticeable major benefit is the lighter weight because the 05+ TL-S cams are hollow t/f
With the P2R adapter, the 09+ TL-SH AWD affixes to the j32a2 head .With electrical work this setup retains the j32a2 butterflies. t/f
The above mentioned IM has roughly a ~75mm opening, but the stock j32a2 TB may only be bored to ~71mm. t/f
That is all I can think of right now. I will be compiling all of this stuff to hopefully create a huge resource with a ton of FAQ and not so FAQ to help people with upgrades and swaps for the CL-S and TL-S. Thanks again guys.
Ok just t clarify some things... I would love for those with actual first hand experience to chime in here. I have done a lot of reading on these subjects to try and sift out the crap from the correct. There are a lot of thread that do not actually verify or deny claims and I really need to try and get all this straight. Anyone who can legitimately make a claim or answer please do so...
Motor Questions
All CL-S and TL-S motors are the same. There is not a single difference between the two. t/f
true, J32A2
There is a difference between the CL-S 6 speed motor and every other j32a2, the difference is only the addition/absence of the VSA module and the camshaft Position sensor. The mechanical aspects are identical across all J32a2. (Camshaft, Block, crank, pistons, rods, bearings, valve springs, valves, ect) t/f
The crank sensors are different as well. The Auto has one crank sensor and its a Mag sensor (iirc). The manual has two, one on the timing belt side and another on the bellhouse and its a Hall sensor(I may have the sensor type backwards).
For the 3.5l MDX swap, the crank and beearings and rods are used from the MDX motor. The Pistons and rings come from either 01-03 CL-S or 05+ RL. t/f
True
The RL piston actually has 11:1 compression ration in the 3.5l build (There were descrepencies on that point that I could not verify.) t/f
Eh. There are conflicting reports.
The 05+ TL Type S valve spring may be used in the 01-03 CL-S and 01-03 TL-S with the 05+ TL-S retainers. These springs are stiffer than the stock CL-S and help prevent valve float/allow for a more aggressive camshaft. t/f
True, exhaust side is the most important.
The j32a2 block is best for the 3.5l swap due to it having stronger steel sleeves. This helps with the heat and forces created during high rev operation. t/f
IIRC the J35A4 in the MDX has the same sleeves as well. However, the J32A2 block has reinforcements (supposedly).
The MDX crank and block is superior to the Oddy crank due to the MDX crank being forged. t/f
Its not really forged, but yes.
There are no performance camshafts for the J series. The only thing available are regrinds by Bisimoto (through Webcam) There is not any end user testing of this cam re-grind, but is not a good choice for reliability reasons. t/f
True
Oddy, MDX and CL(S)+TL(S) motors all have interchangeable blocks. The j32a2 head is the highest performance head from the factory. The Oddy block is inferior to the MDX/CL(S)+TL(S) blocks, which both have forged internals vs. cast. t/f
The bigger difference between the Honda blocks and the Acura blocks are sleeves. As for heads, Ive heard different things from different people.
But all blocks - aside from the J37 - are interchangeable. The bore is the same 89mm.
The 05+ TL-S camshaft is usable in the 01-03 CL-S and 01-03 TL-S. This however requires a shim to properly fit, and shows minimal gains. NO machine work is required to any other part of the head. The only noticeable major benefit is the lighter weight because the 05+ TL-S cams are hollow t/f
True, TL-S cams.
With the P2R adapter, the 09+ TL-SH AWD affixes to the j32a2 head .With electrical work this setup retains the j32a2 butterflies. t/f
True. However, IMVHO, that setup doesnt breath enough for stroked motors.
The above mentioned IM has roughly a ~75mm opening, but the stock j32a2 TB may only be bored to ~71mm. t/f
True. And the TB bore of 71mm is at the inlet. It tapers to a smaller diameter.
That is all I can think of right now. I will be compiling all of this stuff to hopefully create a huge resource with a ton of FAQ and not so FAQ to help people with upgrades and swaps for the CL-S and TL-S. Thanks again guys.
Motor Questions
All CL-S and TL-S motors are the same. There is not a single difference between the two. t/f
true, J32A2
There is a difference between the CL-S 6 speed motor and every other j32a2, the difference is only the addition/absence of the VSA module and the camshaft Position sensor. The mechanical aspects are identical across all J32a2. (Camshaft, Block, crank, pistons, rods, bearings, valve springs, valves, ect) t/f
The crank sensors are different as well. The Auto has one crank sensor and its a Mag sensor (iirc). The manual has two, one on the timing belt side and another on the bellhouse and its a Hall sensor(I may have the sensor type backwards).
For the 3.5l MDX swap, the crank and beearings and rods are used from the MDX motor. The Pistons and rings come from either 01-03 CL-S or 05+ RL. t/f
True
The RL piston actually has 11:1 compression ration in the 3.5l build (There were descrepencies on that point that I could not verify.) t/f
Eh. There are conflicting reports.
The 05+ TL Type S valve spring may be used in the 01-03 CL-S and 01-03 TL-S with the 05+ TL-S retainers. These springs are stiffer than the stock CL-S and help prevent valve float/allow for a more aggressive camshaft. t/f
True, exhaust side is the most important.
The j32a2 block is best for the 3.5l swap due to it having stronger steel sleeves. This helps with the heat and forces created during high rev operation. t/f
IIRC the J35A4 in the MDX has the same sleeves as well. However, the J32A2 block has reinforcements (supposedly).
The MDX crank and block is superior to the Oddy crank due to the MDX crank being forged. t/f
Its not really forged, but yes.
There are no performance camshafts for the J series. The only thing available are regrinds by Bisimoto (through Webcam) There is not any end user testing of this cam re-grind, but is not a good choice for reliability reasons. t/f
True
Oddy, MDX and CL(S)+TL(S) motors all have interchangeable blocks. The j32a2 head is the highest performance head from the factory. The Oddy block is inferior to the MDX/CL(S)+TL(S) blocks, which both have forged internals vs. cast. t/f
The bigger difference between the Honda blocks and the Acura blocks are sleeves. As for heads, Ive heard different things from different people.
But all blocks - aside from the J37 - are interchangeable. The bore is the same 89mm.
The 05+ TL-S camshaft is usable in the 01-03 CL-S and 01-03 TL-S. This however requires a shim to properly fit, and shows minimal gains. NO machine work is required to any other part of the head. The only noticeable major benefit is the lighter weight because the 05+ TL-S cams are hollow t/f
True, TL-S cams.
With the P2R adapter, the 09+ TL-SH AWD affixes to the j32a2 head .With electrical work this setup retains the j32a2 butterflies. t/f
True. However, IMVHO, that setup doesnt breath enough for stroked motors.
The above mentioned IM has roughly a ~75mm opening, but the stock j32a2 TB may only be bored to ~71mm. t/f
True. And the TB bore of 71mm is at the inlet. It tapers to a smaller diameter.
That is all I can think of right now. I will be compiling all of this stuff to hopefully create a huge resource with a ton of FAQ and not so FAQ to help people with upgrades and swaps for the CL-S and TL-S. Thanks again guys.
Thread Starter
Weird
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 263
Likes: 28
From: Buffalo, New York
Did you need shims to fit this cam richard or does it fit? I like the idea of a cam that is designed to use more displacement. Thanks for the info...
CIVIC
Thank you for all the information. You have been the most indispensable resource for my build. Your time and patience with my questions have been the difference between this being a pipe dream and a reality. I hope when I am all done to compile this information and make some sort of compendium to help others.
I see that you don't think the TL-SH AWD intake manifold is STILL enough for a stroked motor... I was going to use the spacer of my MDX motor and the SH-AWD swap also to see if I can maximize my output. Also your 80mm TB was custom made by Paul wasn't it? Also the SH-AWD IM cannot be ports due to its material design correct? If so were you able to retain Cruise?
That might be wort looking into over spending on a port. I am trying to do everything right the first time.
The MDX spacer wont fit unless you mill it down. I had mine milled in half and the manifold still hit the hood.
I did have Paul build the 80mm TB setup, but I didnt use the 3.7 manifold for it. CC was not retained, but you could given enough fab time. It wasnt a top priority for me.
The 3.7l manifold could be ported if you are very careful, but its a bitch due to the material.
I did have Paul build the 80mm TB setup, but I didnt use the 3.7 manifold for it. CC was not retained, but you could given enough fab time. It wasnt a top priority for me.
The 3.7l manifold could be ported if you are very careful, but its a bitch due to the material.