Grease that clutch pedal...the honda high temp urea grease injected in it is still holding strong. Silent pedal!

 

did install Sat morning and pulled the old one out Fri night... woof.
items needed:
10mm wrench for hard lines
12mm wrench for cmc rod adjustment
12mm socket for cmc bolts and booster bolts
10mm socket for cmc reservoir bracket
8mm short wrench for slave cylinder bleeder
swivel for left cmc bolt
needle nose for cmc pin and hard line clasps
unbolt cmc and disconnect pedal. loosen booster bolts as much as possible
unbolt cmc reservoir
disconnect hardline along frame rail
wiggle booster while pulling out hardline
wiggle out cmc and hard line all in one including reservoir... under brake reservoir
swap over needed parts from old cmc to new
reinstall
bleed via slave cylinder

Per ACT, they have come to the conclusion the feedback plate (triangular object at end of CMC) is to blame for failure
Service Bulletin: Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder / ACT News // Advanced Clutch Technology

old on left, em2 on right... straight bolt up

 

have been hearing creaking noises from the clutch pedal, just installed a new cmc a few weeks ago so I knew it had to be the bracket
my buddy welded the seams. fixed it. a lot more sturdy with less deflection. the entire pedal throw is more smooth

 

Well, it's great to hear other solutions, but guys, before going on the mission, please try a syringe full of the honda high temp urea grease. I tried a BUNCH of others and NOTHING killed the noise...only that, and it's been a year and a half and it's still silent. Not saying it isn't possible we all have different issues but try the cheap/easy one first.

Go with urea. Syringe full, insert into both slights on either side with pedal depressed and ill the chamber.

 

I'm a bit lost on the CMC part numbers. I've seen four numbers quoted:

P/N 46920-S7A-A03, supposedly the upgrade from the original 46920-S7A-A02. The TL version, 46920-S7A-A04, considered to be an upgrade to the A03.
and the basic one,46920-S7A-A06, off an earlier civic.

What's the best one to go with?

Thanks. Doug

 

before going on that mission, try the grease...unless you're leaking fluid, there's no good reason to change out the MC and it won't guarantee you won't be in the same boat in a year from now.

 

Thanks Rockstar. My issue is the pedal is right on the floor when the clutch engages. Forums suggest Slave is shot. Figured I'd change them both, if I am going in!

 

Well, if it's any consolation, my slave o-ring went out at about 34K miles, 5 years ago and I changed JUST that and not the master and I've been fine since (except the squeak)!

I would look into checkvalve delete on the slave too, easier to do it while it's off the car. Bleeding is the worst part.

 

I'll check into the check valve delete. Thanks very much.

 

You're welcome...plus, slave is pretty easy in comparison!

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...-valve-734300/