tempetom

I really need some help trying to get my starter in correctly. We've put in in and out around 6 times now and tried different things and even got the starter tested. Everytime we try to start the engine, we get solenoid, spin, but no engagement into the flywheel. I took a picture into the hole to see the flywheel and the face of the starter pinion is just rubbing against the face of the teeth of the flywheel. We finally started shimming the bottom bolt with no luck. Today, I locked the pinion in the engaged position and inserted the started into the flywheel ok. We hooked up the wires and reinserted it after unlocking the pinion. We shimmed the hell out of it and no dice. We removed some shims and no dice. We added even more shims and no dice. I look at the starter and really believe it's cocked so that the pinion is more inboard and causing the problem. I have no idea what to do to correct this. I've taken pictures of all this and would be happy to share them with anyone who may be able to help out. To expedite things, my email address is tempetom@hotmail.com.
I'd really hate to have to put things back together to get the car towed or trailered to a repair shop. I just feel I'm so close to getting this, but keep coming up empty.

TexasHonda

Have you compared your new starter to old very carefully. You could have wrong starter or improperly rebuilt starter. I would ask for a replacement from auto parts provider. It shouldn't be this difficult. The starter face is tightly machined to fit the engine entry point snugly and align correctly. If it's not aligning, something is wrong w/ starter or starter internal parts.

good luck

tempetom

Damn, I was starting to think the same thing. Stuff like this is what makes people less stubborn stop trying to do things themselves. I'll keep you posted. I hate to send the starter back to SC and wait for a replacement. If worse comes to worse, I'll get another one locally and keep the SC one as a spare if it ever comes. I have looked at the starters side-by side and they look good. When I get the time and knowhow, I'll put together a photo folder on this. Funny thing is we did almost all this without removing the driveshaft from the wheel hub. Yesterday I removed it entirely and it took all of 5 minutes. Obviously we had taken it out of the differential.

tempetom

Finally, some good news. I compared the 2 starters on Saturday and they were identical. I even set them both on 2 parallel rails and they sat vertical. I put the old starter in on Sat and ran a jumper wire to the solenoid contact. When I hit it with 12v it jumped right in as it's supposed to. Today we left the big bracket off the main power wire to the starter and bolted it up til it looked square. When I tried to start it it did start, but made a squeek when the pinion tried to retract from the flywheel. We kept fooling with different shim stacks under the lower mount and finally got rid of the squeek. As near as I can tell, the wires kept pushing the starter out of line and made it jam the flywheel when we tightened it. I never did see or find any shims when I removed the old starter, but there was an impression of one on its lower mounting surface. Putting the car back together will be a snap after doing all this. I hope all this helps someone in the future to avoid some of our mistakes.

clint999

For the truly frugal, and I include myself in that number, you can simply replace the copper contacts in the starter solenoid. Following is a link to a source for starter solenoid contacts. Installation is easy, but review the tips on this link also.

Starter Solenoid Contacts Source

Regards

tempetom

I have to weigh in on this, but I took the starter apart on my 3.2TL and didn't see any removable contacts in it. I think the 2.5 has em, but I really don't know. I kinda recall TexasHonda mentioning the difference.

TexasHonda

The 2.5TL starter solenoid contacts are not accessible (sealed unit). I don't know about 3.2TL.

good luck

Cloonington

Hey guys, first post, new here... Everyone here looks like they know about Acuras, more than my local mechanic does... I have this problem on my Tl 2.5 97' where when I turn on the car and let go of the key it shuts off right away. However, when I turn it on and hold the key 3/4 of the way it runs, but I have to keep holding the key to the starter. Anyone else have this problem?... or is my car just weird? I really need help, no one I went to knew what It was and it's aggravating! I am starting to get hand cramps from holding the key everytime I drive!!! Please help, thanks!

main70072

Welcome to the forum! For your problem, you may want to check for a faulty ignition keyswitch. Goodluck!

cbold68

I know the answer but I need the moral support. Here's what the starter on my 98 3.2tl does. Sometimes, I turn the ignition and hear a loud click from the engine bay and the engine does not turn over. Other times, the damn thing starts right up... It looks like the solenoid works but the starter motor itself is going out. And I have to remove the driveshaft? WTF? Great car but what a pain in the @$$.... So its the starter motor contacts, isn't it.

Ken1997TL

Sounds exactly like what I had to deal with. Bad starter contacts.

9632tl

Every once in a while, my car will make a weird clicking/buzzing noise when the key is between ON and START. Idk what it is, but it sounds like its inside, near the radio. Maybe a relay? Doesn't happen more than once in a row.

Ken1997TL

Yeah, probably a relay.

irresponsiblekid

so have you guys confirmed that the contacts are not user-servicable / replacable on either the 2.5 or the 3.2L?

TexasHonda

I know the contacts are not replaceable on the 2.5TL starter, but don't know about the 3.2TL starter.

I have not investigated whether you might buy a separate solenoid to replace the defective solenoid, but it may be possible. A new starter is >$150 last time I looked, so not a trivial cost.

good luck

tempetom

I'd hate to go through the time and effort to change the solenoid and find that the starter's bad. I'd change out the whole thing and be done with it.

Universal11

I had starter problems once...it did pretty much the same as everyone's click click click except I knew a little about cars and use to tap the starter with a rod and it lasted a while like that but eventually got it changed for $50 buck in labor and i think i got the part for $75 bucks. Great car can't complain about it. It lasted 11 years 334k+ miles later. So if your starter clicks just hit it with a rod a few times and it should start.

irresponsiblekid

where the hell do i stick a rod to hit it? LOL i haven't even been able to get an eye on the starter yet. Gonna take the wheel off tomorrow to get a closer look, check out the lower elec contacts, maybe beat the hell out of it

thanks all

tempetom

Previous poster had the 2.5 not the 3.2. I think it's impossible to get at the starter from the top on the 3.2.

SurfingScotty

Mine's doing it again...first time was just over 100,000 miles and I'm now at 170,000. Just a quick note to anyone having starting problems.

It may NOT be the starter. If you turn the key and all of your display lights on the dash go out:
1 check your battery. Make sure its not dead.
2 check your battery terminal contacts. (clean 'em up really good)
If after doing the above and you have the same results, you probably have a bad ignition switch. It's a $75.00 plastic part that connects to the back of the ignition assy. Kind-of a bitch to get out but don't replace the whole thing like I did (Assy and wires= $450 for parts)
You can try moving the key back and forth really slowly and see if you can get your idiot lights to come on. If they do, even for a second when you turn the key to "Start" it's your ignition switch.

trum11

i have that same problem

free123buzz

Hello! new member here. The info here has answered MOST of my questions about the starter problem on my 97 3.2 tl. This car was bought new by a family member in memphis. It was regularly serviced at Acura of memphis & acura of Jackson, MS. The starter was replaced @ about 120k, and out now at 195k miles. a year ago when i came to own it, i had to replace power steering pump. I also had new timing belt, water pump, speedo sender, tires..... $1600 worth. I cannot spend another $600+ on the starter. So, here I go! I have a manual from auto zone, which aint worth much. I feel confident but i figure to be back with some questions. A feller could b the proud new owner of this fine car probaly for a VERY good $$.$$. Thanks to all u pros & shade tree mechanics for the posts here!

CalamityJane

Hey all, here's my first post. This has been a great read for getting ready to replace my starter. Looks like I'll have to order one first since I haven't found one yet at local auto part stores. My daughter is a mechanic so she'll be the one having all the fun. My car has 197k miles and still runs great. She thinks it's time for a new car and think this one is just getting broke in. I am glad to know this replacement is very doable and we can avoid the dealer. Last time I took my car to the dealer they had it over 3 months and couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and their guesses were all $1200 fixes. I did not want to pay for guesses. It ended up being the computer (dealer's second guess) which was causing a rough idle and no horsepower. My daughter sent the computer to a company in Florida who restored the computer to factory specs for $183 and had it back to us in 3 days. That was nearly 2 years ago. Best money spent. Hoping starter will be easy to find.

main70072

Some help for 2.5TL starter: https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tl-1996-1998-101/2-5tl-starter-replacement-837451/

tempetom

Wow, it's been 9 years since I replaced my starter.
The old guy who helped me install it died 5 or 6 years ago.
The good news is the old Acura is still running strong, but it hasn't reached 100k miles yet.
We don't get around much anymore.
My wife keeps saying we should get a new car but we don't need one.
We could afford one, but why?
My Acura has a salvage title so I guess it's basically worthless now but it looks and runs great.

SurfingScotty

Don’t sell it! Those cars are bullet-proof! I sold my ‘97 3.2 TL 8 years ago with 180,000 miles for $5,000. The only issues I had was starter, radiator, and climate control blower (which was by far the most expensive part to replace).

I replaced it with a 2007 TL Type-S manual transmission. I’m currently at 138,000 miles and, although much more fun to drive, it’s easily had 5 x’s the number of problems than the ‘97 had. The ’97 was built and shipped from Japan. The 2007 was built In the States, I’d that tells you anything...

tempetom

Obviously, my 96 was also imported from Japan.
For years I refused to buy foreign. I guess it was from the time I was born?
Got stung by some domestics so tried foreign.
I do think domestics are better now and wouldn't shy away from some of them.

On a side note, when I first got the TL I was driving across West Texas and my wife and I got up at 2am to finish the trip.
We were the only car on the highway and I decided to see what it could do.
I planned to hit 140mph. When we hit 111 I noticed a herd of deer in the unfenced median.
I slowed down to 90 and my wife said that's better. Still think 140 was doable.
That was with the high performance tires on it.

1997TL - Is Alive Again

Oh wow, there are still first gen owners? Anyone selling any parts, specifically inspire headlights?