copy252

i wouldnt even try at this! my stater is almost dead. rebuilt plus labor at my local auto electric place.... 300! not that bad! much better than 650!!!!!!!

Ken1997TL

Thats a fair price.

kaotikvizion

Ok this same thing happened to me. the night before no problems, then the the next morning CLICK... nothing. lights, radio & everything worked but it wouldnt even turn over. I called my mechanic & was ready to drop a new alternator & starter but he told me to have it towed over there & he would look at it before we started dropping parts into it. I checked the battery terminals checked all fuses, nothing I could find was wrong. well I dropped it off & he told me it was my batterry cables!!! He said if it were your alternator it would slowly drain your battery. if it was my starter it wouldnt even click. so instead of having to pay for a new starter & alternator Im blessed with only having to buy 80$ battery cables, only thing is you have to buy them from acura cuz NOBODY sells the positive cable. well thats my experience...

Go90go

I figured that out as well. And actually, everything was ok until this morning when it happened before I went to work.

~Cheers~

kaotikvizion

ok it was the starter. heard from the mechanic & he said the cables were gonna go any way & I was pissed & discouraged cuz thats 150 bucks out the window so he cut me a killer deal... he told me to get a starter & he'll put it in for 60$!!! I almost shit myself he was like I dont wanna lose your buisness, I should charge 300- 400 cuz the cable alone took him a few hours... so I just found a brand new starter on ebay with a 2 year warranty for 153.00 free shipping tell me that aint killer!!!

KrayzieDxC

ever tried acme they take ur old starter n give some money back..just buy full price whick is 200.00 or something n give ur 50 bux back

wildnphx

I am having same problem with my 96 2.5 and need to get it fixed, Who is Acme that was suggested in Previous post? Link or Number?

Thanks

KrayzieDxC

its the solenoid that need to be replace..the starter its self doesnt need to be replace. solenoid cost like what 10 bux..but you goin to have to buy the whole starter replacement it self and just take the solenoid it self out..i just replace mine by hand it toke 2 days and take very time to do it.
so usally all these parts store will take your old starter and give you money for your core. and they will rebuild it

www.autoaadvanceparts.com (cheapest)

www.acmeauto.com

www.autozone.com

rjsjayhawk

Had the same symptoms as everyone else.

1998 3.2TL
140,000 miles

For the last week or so (when the engine was cold), I would turn the ignition key to the 'start' position and hear only a 'click.'

The battery was new and neither the headlights nor interior lights dimmed when attempting to start, so it wasn't likely to be a bad battery. After 10 or so attempts at starting the car, the starter motor would run and the engine would turn over as if there were no problems. After driving for a while and letting the engine warm up, there would be no subsequent problems starting the car unless it had sat for more than two or three hours. Likely that the solenoid was drawing current from the battery and energizing, but the plunger that should be activated to close the circuit to the starter motor wasn't making good contact. Therefore, only a 'click.'

Dealership agreed and is replacing the starter tomorrow. Too bad it is so inaccessible in our model year. I knew going in that they would have to replace the left transaxle to get at it. Estimate $650 for parts/labor.

Car is in good shape, but damn it seems like everything has gone wrong this year. Earlier, my car shut down on me while driving in a bad part of town. No warning, nothing. Car just stopped moving. Had to have main relay replaced. Between not starting and suddenly stopping, it's hard to feel like I have a reliable ride.

slavik

starters on tl are easy to change! take right axle ouT! that's what i did costed me $10 for copper contacts you can do it yourself dont pay hundreds! the starter itself will not go bad it is copper contacts that is going bad!

Mandy

This is late in the posting but a year or so ago, my Acura Dealer replaced my Starter, on warranty, but in so doing, busted a new tire. They replaced the tire without telling me, but I found out when I cleaned the darn wheel. Same brand but different model.....they replace it without question, but to special order the Yokohama tire which was almost discontinued...what a debacle! But yes, 3.2 is beatch to replace the starter.

Troyble2

First off, I'm new to this site but really enjoy it. Have a 96 2.5 tl that I bought new, 142.000 miles and am planning on keeping it until the wheels fall off. My starter went out yesterday, just a loud click and nothing. I have a shop at my work and went to the guys to get it replaced. Bought the starter @ Autozone for 166.00. You can replace it without removing the wheel or axle. We took the alternator off and loosened it from the front with a loooong extension. THen slid it out after removing a few of the lines off the intake manifold. It took 5-6 hours and cost me in addition to the 166 bucks fifty chicken wings and a case of Michelob light, all in all not bad. On a side note what's the deal with the radiators on Hondas/Acuras? I've owned three and all went south in 3-4 years. Still, I love my TL.

Go90go

Welcome to the boards, m8. I'm not sure about the radiator thing, as we've had two 3rd gen Accords in the family, (one '88, one '89) countless Civics from all generations, a 4th gen Accord, and 3 7th gen Accords, and none of them have ever had radiator problems...

~Cheers~

P.S. My starter solenoid is dying ATM, and I'm looking for a replacement. Anyone have any part numbers?

Hawaii Acura

My 97 2.5TL was parked in front of my house. Somebody told me my brake lights were on. Went out to see. Bright lights. I didn't turn them on. Thought the battery must be dead. Did a jump start. The car won't start. Only heard several clicks then silence. I'm glad to find this forum. Found a car electric shop to fix the starter (not replacing it) at $300. Now does anyone know why brake lights went on on their own? How much would the fix cost?

I'm a girl who does not know car at all. I don't own an owners' manual. Thanks for your help! Aloha!

Go90go

Aloha, post a pic of yourself doing hula and then we'll talk...



Just kidding, hehe. Anyhow $300 for a job that is a real PITA is an awesome steal. Now about the brakes... Maybe the switch behind the pedal got stuck, so see if a little silicone lube doesn't do the trick. Welcome to the boards!

~Cheers~

Hawaii Acura

Thank you very much! I'll check the button for the brake. A friend's friend may know how to fix my starter. He will come to look at it. Will report back how the problem is solved! Mahalo!

Go90go

I'll probably try to take a hammer to the solenoid, which actually works. BTW, my car crapped out last night and I had it towed to a shop this morning. FAT hookup and a replacement only cost me $260 including towing!! Damn, now I owe him a favour, though... Probably have to do maintain his network or something, hehe.

~Cheers~

Hawaii Acura

My friend's friend, who is very good at fixing Honda cars, came to get my car restart again. He is so good at this. From the sound of my turning key he knew it's battery. A normal jump start didn't work. He took his own battery out from his car and somehow got my car started. I couldn't see well of what he did as I was in the car. He told me to get a booster box (sth like that) for future. Very happy!!!

The brake button got stuck. That's the beginning of trouble.

thku4grace

I'm having a somewhat different starting problem. A couple of months back, my 96TL 3.2 would often not start first thing in the morning. Turn the key and nothing. But after a wait of 5 minutes to 20 minutes it would turn over with no trouble at all. Moreso, I could restart throughout the day without any trouble. I checked the battery and it was fine. I replaced the starter and the problem changed. Now it starts first thing in the morning but after the car heats up to operating temperature and I restart 2-3 times, it will fail to start. Same thing, turn the key and nothing. Everything else electrical seems to work fine. When I turn the key the dashboard lights come on as they should whether it turns over or not. I'm confused! Any help would be much appreciated.

smooth96

Has anyone in Houston, TX had their starter replaced? I am looking for a shop good shop that will remove the starter so that I can rebuild (replace the contacts).

Thanks......................Smooth96

DiegosAnotherR1

From the looks of it, it looks like I have to pop the manifold off the top to get to the starter. Is this correct or is there a easier way to get to the starter? I plan on switching it out this weekend. Any advise to help make this job easier? To make sure I don't run into any unforseen problems.

TexasHonda

My 2.5TL starter would only "click" and never engage. My son and I replaced the starter this weekend. It's not a fun job and I have a few lessons to share. I had hoped to repair the starter by installing new solenoid contacts, however the 2.5TL solenoid is a sealed unit and the contacts are not accessible for replacement. We had to purchase an aftermarket starter from ORiellys to finish the job this weekend. I had them bench test the new starter to be sure it was functional. Seems OK and worked fine on startup. I hope I got a good one!

1) Removal Strategy - As Troyble2 did, we removed the starter w/o removing the intake manifold. It is not easy, but removing the intake manifold is a big job also w/ many potential pitfalls in itself. I don't think any time would be saved. Shop manual doesn't suggest this path either. It also doesn't provide any helpful hints on the difficult access problems.

2) Items Removed for Access.
I first removed the alternator, alternator wiring harness, PCV air inlet from intake duct along w/ attached coolant connections, and air inlet duct. Next I removed the vacuum control box, heater hose connection to engine, manifold-engine support brace, and vacuum boost line. Last I removed the injector cover, disconnected injector harness and removed the injector rail and swung out of way w/o removing the fuel supply & return lines. Injectors may stay in manifold or come out w/ rail. This provides access to remove the inner, 14mm socket size bolt. Note, coolant was drained since several coolant lines were released.

3) Starter Removal
The outside, larger, longer 17mm socket size bolt is readily accessible, however in my case it was so tight I couldn't break directly w/ 1/2" ratchet. No room for breaker bar or cheater pipe. I was finally able to remove the large bolt using long 1/2" extensions through the access where alternator was removed. I attached 1/2" ratchet w/ short cheater pipe to provide about 2ft leverage. Bolt finally broke w/ loud crack.

The short, inside 14mm socket size bolt is very difficult to access. I could not access through the alternator tunnel, but might have been able if the oil filter were removed. Instead my son accessed this bolt down through the intake manifold where the 4-5 cylinder runs have a fairly large gap using a 3/8" rachet, short extension, and 14mm socket. He was able to loosen enough and w/ difficulty I hand-extracted the bolt using open end wrench to loosen. You can just reach the bolt w/ your hand w/ some difficulty to retrieve.

Finally the starter is loose and you can pull the starter out to a position where you can release the electrical connector to the solenoid and main power supply wire. Connector as usual is tricky to release but w/ patience it finally backed off.

To this point was ~3 hrs effort for me and my son.

4) Re-installation of Starter
As they say in the manuals, simply reverse things to re-install. Hardest part is reinstalling the 14mm socket size bolt in the inside starter position. My son managed this task and tightened through the intake manifold gap. We installed the large outer, 17mm socket size bolt easily. Injectors need to be cleaned and orings lubed w/ petroleum jelly for reinstallation. Reinstallation was ~ 3 hrs again.

Regards

Acuraman4ever

Thanks for that TexasHonda, looks like I will be needing these instructions soon

TexasHonda

After reading my post and thinking, I realized that you can avoid pulling alternator, alternator harness, PCV air intake, throttle body air intake, and coolant lines attached to PCV air intake,...if you can release the 17mm socket size bolt on the outside of the starter (easily reached). It was so tight in my case that I had to access w/ 1/2" extensions, ratchet, and breaker bar through the space created by removed alternator and other parts. Try that bolt first and see if you can loosen. If so, leave all the front end parts in place and save yourself 1-2 hrs.

good luck

TL-Ridaz96

Hey everyone,

Knowing that almost everyone suffering this problem, I thought this would help as I am in the same boat as you.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=BVLX5W9A

Hope it's a lil bit easier to deal with instead of reading every words in this thread.

I'm planning to do it tomorrow, if successful, I'll try to take some pics.

Btw, this is for 3.2 TL, sorry 2.5 TLers

PSC

I got everything off except the 14mm inside bolt without removing any other parts.
I need an extension to reach the bolt by going down through the manifold.
I will tackle this tomorrow!

Go90go

^ One of my friend's employees got everything off except that one bolt. After trying a few different ways, he just removed the suspension. Good luck with it, though!!

~Cheers~

PSC

Texas Honda or anyone else who did this, did you have to use a torque wrench to tighten the two main bolts?
The repair manual specifies how much torque it needs, and I don't have a torque wrench.
I'm not a big guy but could my super-strength cause damage to the bolts?
What is the danger of the bolts being under-tightened?

Go90go

^ I didn't use one the second time I swapped it, and actually it's only being held up by one bolt ATM, hehe. Ghetto, but it's holding fine.

~Cheers~

PSC

Hardcore Go90go.
I'll try not to use all my strength on the bolt.

PSC

I replaced the starter, but the problem is still there!
When I turn the key I just get a click and all the dashboard lights turn on.
I had the new starter tested when I bought it so I know it's good.

Tomorrow I'll take the old starter as well as the battery to get them tested.
I hope it's just the battery else my July 4th is down the drain.

meazz1

could it be your ignition key problem?

PSC

The battery was bad. I got a new one.
Advance Auto wasn't able to test the starter.
I'll take it somewhere else.

Go90go

^ Glad you got it partially sorted. As meazz said, the keyswitch could've gone bad, too.

~Cheers~

dan jacobsen

I've had 2 starters replaced so far on my 3.2, the first at ~ 93k miles and the 2nd at about ~210k miles. We found on both that the click click click got progressively worse. Never stranded my wife, thank goodness. Once I read about how hard it is to get to in this forum, I didn't even try.

PSC

I'm so glad mine is a 2.5.

Mine turned out to be a a bad battery and bad battery connector.
Starter tested out fine.

But I got to get my hands greasy!

The inner 14mm bolt holding the starter in is a bitch.
That took me a good hour to get off.
I had to unclamp and move some hoses to get to it. and even then I was only able to turn the socket wrench 1/2 inch at a time, and that bolt is LONG. :angryfire

Oh yeh my 14mm socket is still in there somewhere I need a magnet to get it out.
Luckily I had two 14mm.

Go90go

Ratcheting wrench FTW, hehe. I lost my magnetic pickup somewhere. My bro probably still has it from when he fished out his keys from the storm drain.

~Cheers~

PSC

My starting problems came back. I really need help with this problem.

In the morning the car starts properly and is driven 100 yards, turned off, then 5-10 mins later starts up again fine and driven 6.8 miles, where it is parked for most of the day.

At 5 pm, the car is driven back the 6.8 miles, turned off for 5-10 mins, and this is where the problem occurs.
The car won't restart at this point.

This has happened at the same point of my routine 5 times in the last 2 weeks.

I had corrosion on the battery, and the first few times this happened, I cleaned the terminal with baking soda and water and it would start.
But then I changed the terminals, and everything is clean and tight and it still happened.

The car requires a jump start to start at this point.

If I leave the car for a couple hours I can start again.

I had replaced the starter and battery about 3 months ago.
I've had the starter, battery and alternator tested and they are within the limits of "good" according to the machine.

The only thing is that the battery was a little low this past Friday.
I had it recharged then, and the problem didn't occur over the weekend, but my weekend driving is different.

For the last 4 weekdays I've taken to not shutting down for the 10 mins that I'm at that stop just before I get home.
And I try to start a few minutes after I get home.
It has been starting, but not today.

What should I try next?
Starter cable?
New car?

PLEASE HELP!!!

Go90go

My alternator light's been blinking on and off and today, it stayed on but I was still able to take a new Grand Prix GTP from a dig 4 times in a row on battery power alone! Have your battery tested as the discharging might've damaged it. My battery was killed by being discharged too often.

~Cheers~

AJ3

Alright guys I'm going at it this weekend.. I don't know which method to take (Top of engine or from the left side axel, but I'll decide by then. In the meantime, any more info..? Thanks a million for what has all been provided so far.

Oh yeah.. My dealership (AHEMnSTEVENSCREEKACURA AHEM) wants $700 + cost of parts. I'm getting ready to prove them wrong.. may my ratchets be with me.