I am buying an RDX from someone I know and trust has taken extremely good care of the vehicle. Except that I found out he used non-synthetic oil every 5000 kms rather than Mobil1. The oil life is typically still at 50% when the oil gets changed. The vehicle has 80,000 kms or 50,000 miles on it. The vehicle is not driven hard. The motor runs great and there are no indications of any problems.

Should I be concerned?

 

I wouldn't have any concerns about it. This is based on you saying you know this person well and as long as he changed the oil at those intervals religiously.
With todays advanced oil technology you should be good to go as long as the two things I mentioned above are true.

 

Thanks. I also assumed it is OK, or it would have been showing signs of trouble by now. I going to switch to Mobil1 for good measure. Do you think a flush is required?

 

Yes - Mobil 1 was chosen by Acura, as stated in the adds for the vehicle, specifically to minimize deposits, even compared to other synthetics. Any HTO-06 approved oil is OK - a non synthetic oil is not.

I can only comment that I once bought a car from someone that I know and trust. Problem is, trust in what way? He was a great friend, but knows nothing about cars. From his point-of-view, he took excellent care of the vehicle I purchased. From my point-of-vew, well, he really knows nothing about cars. So when I had problems with the car I purchased, how could I really complain?

Do you value the car or your friendship with the previous car owner the most? Just consider that you are buying from someone who could not be bothered to follow the simple requirements of the required engine oil, or let the dealer change his oil with the proper oil. So exactly how is it that the previous owner "has taken extremely good care of the vehicle"?? He kept it washed and waxed? It looks good?

Did the previous owner skip or improperly follow the other required maintenance requirements? what about the rear differential oil changes? etc.

Why not have a mechanic look over the car before you purchase it? Wish I had done that with the car I once bought from a friend, or just not bought it. Good luck with your own purchase.

JMO

 

+1. Mineral based (non-synthetic) oil changed very conservatively at 5000 km should do a reasonably good job of protecting the crank bearings, pistons and valvetrain. However, even fresh mineral based oil may likely have coked the turbo-charger shaft and bearings with carbon deposits over 80000 km. Turbo-charger protection is the principal reason Honda requires HTO-06 synthetic oil.

While the engine appears to run normally, there is no obvious way to determine how badly the turbo-charger is fouled, without taking it apart -- premature turbo failure might be the first indication.

If you choose to buy it, there is no need for a flush to change over to HTO-06. A good overnight drain will suffice.

 

Hello,
When I bought my RDX I called the service advisor for the honest lowdown. I was told the two most important things are premium gas and HTO-06 oil. Why someone would use 5W30 oil in a car for a car they paid good money for is beyond me. The savings is negligable. I think the honda engineers wouldn't require special oil unless it was necessary for optimal performance.

 

HTO-06 approved oils are all 5w30 weight. I think Honda did a good job of using oil that are readily available and ensured it met their strict requirements.

You also have to realize the oil life monitor in the RDX is conservative so even at 0% you still have some life left in the oil.

 

Yes. Deduct the price of a new turbo, including installation, from your previous offer.

 

I feel very strongly about this, RUN, don't walk away from this RDX.

You will not know how much damage is done until it fails.

Wrong oil and wrong gas users do not think any harm is done. And they will tell you so in full belief.

Wrong.

 

I cannot understand why anyone would be so cheap. I would not touch this vehicle with a 99 1/2 pole.

 

Wait the problems this guy will run into a machine shop can fix for relatively cheap, it's not that bad. I'd say go ahead, under one condition, have a mom and pops shop, machine shop, speed shop-turbo shop, just not acura, inspect the turbo for mineral deposits and servicebility as noted by just about everyone(737jock, Mau?oil guy?) if found to be cruddy the get it dissassembled and deeply parts washed. I'd swoop up on itif it was a steal.

 

Once the turbo bearing goes, then it starts asperating oil up the intake tract.

Let that continue long enough and you'll also get some impeller bit to go along too. Next you feed that crap into the cylinders where it turns into carbon. Carbon will make the charge pre-ignite, or knock. Is that bad?

Sure a machine shop can fix that easy, with a new motor.

How much is a new motor?

Find the right car, this one is WRONG. Way wrong.

 

In lieu of what you just said, your implying that sludge/ deposits will increase the oil press of a sealed turbo and will, simply put, leak out into the compressor housing.

That oil will also leak out into the exhaust side too, creating nasty smoke plumes, which would be hard to ignore. Next if the drivers common sense is somewhat lacking they continue to drive on, the exhaust will eventually ruin the turbine. Before all that happens, I imagine a CEL should be indicating a compressor failure for a momentarily rich mixture. The ECU should compensate for the lack of boost. If you're will to put up with the "pew pew" to the eyeballs from the CEL.

Engine won't need to be replaced because of turbine failure. Drama will sell one tho!

Anyway natural oil of same weight or less should not have any I'll effect on an engine. Like 737jock said it is possible that non syn & blend have minerals that may form deposits in the journals. That being said a rebuild or inspection of the compressor would be in order, and a thorough parts washing, and may cost less than $300.00.

You worry about oil being recycled and fouling plugs because the PCV @ IM does that already whether or not you like it or not. I don't want to get started on the EGR valve, intake manifolds runners should be clean.

If it were me I'd buy it for whatever the difference would be to get it parts washed. Turbo r&r is diy simple, imnsho.

 

Drama...I don't think so. All this will happen in a worst case.

Why risk it, buy one that has been properly maintained.

Let me attempt to clairify what I am saying...when the bearing begins to fail it will wear.

After some wear, it will begin to leak oil, yes to both sides. Not because of an oil pressure change. Because of wear. Slop. Play.

A PO-420 may be the first code to set. What is that?

Then when the play in the bearing gets increased enough, it will push the impeller wheel into the housing and start moving bits of that into the engine.

Oh the drama.

Op - where do you stand on this?

 

You can still have the turbo inspected, cleaned and it's kinda brand new once it's rebuilt. Impeller... The turbine still has to go thru an Intercooler first. Still good points but sounds like drama