Started on some in home porting
10-18-2010, 08:08 AM
#362
Suzuka Master
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http://nopi.com/dsp_parts.php?vsubpcdesc=Engine Compartment | Bearings-Main, Stock Repl
10-18-2010, 09:47 AM
#363
I don't know SS or titainium ,something light weight,maybe coated.
Are there bigger valves for our heads ?
It don't look like there's much extra room for bigger valve with out reshaping the combustion chamber.
Also are their any valve seals that are better than stock.
I need to start adding up some figures so I know what I'm looking at and so I can get the heads built.
Other head might be done this week.
I'm not doing it in the kitchen again though I'll tell you that.
Everything is the kitchen was covered with aluminum. It took a half of a day just to clean everything.
Moped the floor 6 times too till it was not getting on my socks.
Last edited by richardparker; 10-18-2010 at 09:54 AM.
10-18-2010, 04:01 PM
#366
What ever the best one's would be so I don't end up with burnt valves.
I don't know SS or titainium ,something light weight,maybe coated.
Are there bigger valves for our heads ?
It don't look like there's much extra room for bigger valve with out reshaping the combustion chamber.
Also are their any valve seals that are better than stock.
I need to start adding up some figures so I know what I'm looking at and so I can get the heads built.
Other head might be done this week.
I'm not doing it in the kitchen again though I'll tell you that.
Everything is the kitchen was covered with aluminum. It took a half of a day just to clean everything.
Moped the floor 6 times too till it was not getting on my socks.
I don't know SS or titainium ,something light weight,maybe coated.
Are there bigger valves for our heads ?
It don't look like there's much extra room for bigger valve with out reshaping the combustion chamber.
Also are their any valve seals that are better than stock.
I need to start adding up some figures so I know what I'm looking at and so I can get the heads built.
Other head might be done this week.
I'm not doing it in the kitchen again though I'll tell you that.
Everything is the kitchen was covered with aluminum. It took a half of a day just to clean everything.
Moped the floor 6 times too till it was not getting on my socks.
as far as bigger, none that i know of, and being easy to put in there, as said not really without a reworking of the chamber itself
and seals that are better then stock, personally i would say it is kinda hard to beat alot of stock honda parts
10-18-2010, 06:53 PM
#367
Three Wheelin'
What ever the best one's would be so I don't end up with burnt valves.
I don't know SS or titainium ,something light weight,maybe coated.
Are there bigger valves for our heads ?
It don't look like there's much extra room for bigger valve with out reshaping the combustion chamber.
Also are their any valve seals that are better than stock.
I need to start adding up some figures so I know what I'm looking at and so I can get the heads built.
I don't know SS or titainium ,something light weight,maybe coated.
Are there bigger valves for our heads ?
It don't look like there's much extra room for bigger valve with out reshaping the combustion chamber.
Also are their any valve seals that are better than stock.
I need to start adding up some figures so I know what I'm looking at and so I can get the heads built.
I'd keep the stock valve seals. They work fine when used in modded engines.
10-20-2010, 04:50 PM
#370
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Wow what the fuck is this?? There is a for sale section, you know.
Also, its funny that you want $499 for them on CraigsList but you want $50 more from us, not to mention those things belong on a Chrysler 300, not an Acura.
PS - I just flagged your CL ad as a scam.
Also, its funny that you want $499 for them on CraigsList but you want $50 more from us, not to mention those things belong on a Chrysler 300, not an Acura.
PS - I just flagged your CL ad as a scam.
Last edited by 97BlackAckCL; 10-21-2010 at 12:02 PM. Reason: link removed
10-20-2010, 06:40 PM
#373
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WOW!.... I've seen some thread jack's in my day, but this one takes the cake...
Looking very nice Richard, I can't tell exactly from your chamber picture, but it looks like you still have the ridge mark between the casting and the seat
machining in the throat.
If you have any carbide tools, I would smooth that; the valve seat are in the most important with port work. Also, not sure it's the case on yours, but if you look at where the seat blends into the chamber, there are a few that really need to be smoothed out.
You might consider trying to put a smooth radius between the chamber and the seat on every port; that's what I've seen on every high-end, ported head I have ever examined closely.
Looking very nice Richard, I can't tell exactly from your chamber picture, but it looks like you still have the ridge mark between the casting and the seat
machining in the throat.
If you have any carbide tools, I would smooth that; the valve seat are in the most important with port work. Also, not sure it's the case on yours, but if you look at where the seat blends into the chamber, there are a few that really need to be smoothed out.
You might consider trying to put a smooth radius between the chamber and the seat on every port; that's what I've seen on every high-end, ported head I have ever examined closely.
10-20-2010, 08:03 PM
#375
All you have to do is give him a link to the blackmarket section, not call him out and diss his product
Last edited by 97BlackAckCL; 10-21-2010 at 12:03 PM. Reason: link removed
10-20-2010, 08:28 PM
#376
Three Wheelin'
10-20-2010, 08:29 PM
#377
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Can you take a couple close up pictures of the intake ports from the exhaust side; one straight in, maybe another for a 45* angle?
10-20-2010, 09:22 PM
#378
I Drive Like A Dick 8≈
sorry RP back on topic.
10-20-2010, 09:54 PM
#379
maybe not perfect but pretty good.
I did not want to slip and score the seat.
The raised sections of the chamber I blended them in to.
What do you think about polishing valves faces ?
I will ask to have the ads removed.
It is a little more than taken a left with the topic .
10-21-2010, 03:20 PM
#384
I did check into back cutting the valves.
What do you think, or know, what degree cut will work the best for our engine ?
30,33 degree ?
I started blending in those inner exhaust tube lips in.
ran out of corse buffs.so those are going to wait.
I found it easyier to blend those lips with a worn corse dremel buff.
because when it's worn pretty good it's about a 1/8" wide and you can work it with good pricision.
Any way I'm going to get the runners matched up next.
For referance.
The runner in the rear are from a clp
The runner in the front is a type s
No wonder when I did the clp one's before I had to remove so much material to match the mdx spacer and the clp manifold.
The type s one's will be so easy to gasket match. I will only have to remove between 1/32 and 1/16 around the holes.
I might try to straighten the tubes some on the inside thou.
What do you think, or know, what degree cut will work the best for our engine ?
30,33 degree ?
I started blending in those inner exhaust tube lips in.
ran out of corse buffs.so those are going to wait.
I found it easyier to blend those lips with a worn corse dremel buff.
because when it's worn pretty good it's about a 1/8" wide and you can work it with good pricision.
Any way I'm going to get the runners matched up next.
For referance.
The runner in the rear are from a clp
The runner in the front is a type s
No wonder when I did the clp one's before I had to remove so much material to match the mdx spacer and the clp manifold.
The type s one's will be so easy to gasket match. I will only have to remove between 1/32 and 1/16 around the holes.
I might try to straighten the tubes some on the inside thou.
Last edited by richardparker; 10-21-2010 at 03:22 PM.
10-21-2010, 04:58 PM
#385
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The progress is looking good RP. When do you plan on doing the block (or are you)? Do you have a timeframe for installing the motor?
10-21-2010, 05:58 PM
#386
As Nersh said, if you post something FS in someones build thread without permission multiple times in succession, prepare to be flamed.
The progress is looking good RP. When do you plan on doing the block (or are you)? Do you have a timeframe for installing the motor?
The progress is looking good RP. When do you plan on doing the block (or are you)? Do you have a timeframe for installing the motor?
I will get to the block after all the pnp work is done to the TB neck.
I have been reading and reading and reading.
And I still don't know what I want to do.
I want the highest compression possible on premium gas.
Also was looking into over size pistons 90mm.
I was looking for info on rod
lenth
wrist pin size
width
and big end measurements.
and I was looking for
piston measurements too.
But I could not find anything.
No time frame ,
Money is the only road block.
10-21-2010, 06:06 PM
#388
I come close to that asumption too but,not sure.
k20 have a 22mm wrist pin but that all I know about them,and thay are widely availabe in all size combinations.
Whats our wrist pin size?
k20 have a 22mm wrist pin but that all I know about them,and thay are widely availabe in all size combinations.
Whats our wrist pin size?
Last edited by richardparker; 10-21-2010 at 06:08 PM.
10-21-2010, 06:31 PM
#389
Three Wheelin'
Thanks,
I will get to the block after all the pnp work is done to the TB neck.
I have been reading and reading and reading.
And I still don't know what I want to do.
I want the highest compression possible on premium gas.
Also was looking into over size pistons 90mm.
I was looking for info on rod
lenth
wrist pin size
width
and big end measurements.
and I was looking for
piston measurements too.
But I could not find anything.
No time frame ,
Money is the only road block.
I will get to the block after all the pnp work is done to the TB neck.
I have been reading and reading and reading.
And I still don't know what I want to do.
I want the highest compression possible on premium gas.
Also was looking into over size pistons 90mm.
I was looking for info on rod
lenth
wrist pin size
width
and big end measurements.
and I was looking for
piston measurements too.
But I could not find anything.
No time frame ,
Money is the only road block.
10-21-2010, 08:55 PM
#390
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I'll measure the wrist pins when I get home. There are guys out there running 15:1 compression on pump gas with forged internals with no problems. It's not cut and dry though, there are many factors that play a role in what makes a safe cR.
I personally plan on running 12.5:1, and I might bump to 13.2:1 down the road.
I personally plan on running 12.5:1, and I might bump to 13.2:1 down the road.
10-21-2010, 08:56 PM
#391
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I wouldn't go higher then 11:1 on pump gas. That leaves some margin for error if you run shitty gas. It does have alot to do with the tune though. You could also run E85 but that is hard to find in most areas and you need to upgrade the entire fuel system to do it. If I go boosted in the Civic thats what Id like to run.
10-21-2010, 09:54 PM
#392
Three Wheelin'
I'll measure the wrist pins when I get home. There are guys out there running 15:1 compression on pump gas with forged internals with no problems. It's not cut and dry though, there are many factors that play a role in what makes a safe cR.
I personally plan on running 12.5:1, and I might bump to 13.2:1 down the road.
I personally plan on running 12.5:1, and I might bump to 13.2:1 down the road.
Forged internals has nothing to do with keeping the fuel from pre detonating, so thats a mute point.
Do you have an article or some other kind of source for these 15:1 guys on pump gas? Otherwise I'd have to call
10-21-2010, 10:22 PM
#393
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I know B series guys running pump gas in the 13.5:1 range. But they have much better tuning solutions available.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 10-21-2010 at 10:28 PM.
10-21-2010, 11:40 PM
#394
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The wrist pins are in fact 22mm. Now the question is, how tall are the pistons as measured from the center of the wrist pin?
OK, where do I start?
Yes, really, that's what I'm going to do. On pump gas.
Forged internals indeed has nothing to do with detonation. However, the point is that anyone trying to tune a very high compression engine is more than likely going to have some occurrence of detonation during tuning. Nobody runs that high of a compression ratio on cast internals because they would be destroyed the first time you put the car on a dyno and tried to tune it.
I never said it was a J series guy running 15:1. There are a few guys out there running compression ratios that high. I've personally seen 12.8:1 on cast internals; B20/Vtec, RS machine.
Static compression ratios are also not necessarily relevant to the actual compression ratios because of valve overlap and that could be the case with some guys running "15:1" on pump gas. Unfortunately, because the J's are SOHC, the valve overlap it predetermined by the cam. Also there are factors that have to be taken into account; for example, chamber shape and quench area.
If it's safe for Honda to send the J series out of the factory with a 11.2:1 compression ratio, a pentroof chamber, factory electronics, narrow-band O2 sensors, and heat risers on the pistons & chambers; it's probably safe for a fully worked, ceramic coated chamber and dome, dedicated wideband, and full standalone motor to see 12.5:1. At least we'll find out soon enough.
Yes, really, that's what I'm going to do. On pump gas.
Forged internals indeed has nothing to do with detonation. However, the point is that anyone trying to tune a very high compression engine is more than likely going to have some occurrence of detonation during tuning. Nobody runs that high of a compression ratio on cast internals because they would be destroyed the first time you put the car on a dyno and tried to tune it.
I never said it was a J series guy running 15:1. There are a few guys out there running compression ratios that high. I've personally seen 12.8:1 on cast internals; B20/Vtec, RS machine.
Static compression ratios are also not necessarily relevant to the actual compression ratios because of valve overlap and that could be the case with some guys running "15:1" on pump gas. Unfortunately, because the J's are SOHC, the valve overlap it predetermined by the cam. Also there are factors that have to be taken into account; for example, chamber shape and quench area.
If it's safe for Honda to send the J series out of the factory with a 11.2:1 compression ratio, a pentroof chamber, factory electronics, narrow-band O2 sensors, and heat risers on the pistons & chambers; it's probably safe for a fully worked, ceramic coated chamber and dome, dedicated wideband, and full standalone motor to see 12.5:1. At least we'll find out soon enough.
10-21-2010, 11:56 PM
#395
Three Wheelin'
The wrist pins are in fact 22mm. Now the question is, how tall are the pistons as measured from the center of the wrist pin?
OK, where do I start?
Yes, really, that's what I'm going to do. On pump gas.
Forged internals indeed has nothing to do with detonation. However, the point is that anyone trying to tune a very high compression engine is more than likely going to have some occurrence of detonation during tuning. Nobody runs that high of a compression ratio on cast internals because they would be destroyed the first time you put the car on a dyno and tried to tune it.
I never said it was a J series guy running 15:1. There are a few guys out there running compression ratios that high. I've personally seen 12.8:1 on cast internals; B20/Vtec, RS machine.
Static compression ratios are also not necessarily relevant to the actual compression ratios because of valve overlap and that could be the case with some guys running "15:1" on pump gas. Unfortunately, because the J's are SOHC, the valve overlap it predetermined by the cam. Also there are factors that have to be taken into account; for example, chamber shape and quench area.
If it's safe for Honda to send the J series out of the factory with a 11.2:1 compression ratio, a pentroof chamber, factory electronics, narrow-band O2 sensors, and heat risers on the pistons & chambers; it's probably safe for a fully worked, ceramic coated chamber and dome, dedicated wideband, and full standalone motor to see 12.5:1. At least we'll find out soon enough.
OK, where do I start?
Yes, really, that's what I'm going to do. On pump gas.
Forged internals indeed has nothing to do with detonation. However, the point is that anyone trying to tune a very high compression engine is more than likely going to have some occurrence of detonation during tuning. Nobody runs that high of a compression ratio on cast internals because they would be destroyed the first time you put the car on a dyno and tried to tune it.
I never said it was a J series guy running 15:1. There are a few guys out there running compression ratios that high. I've personally seen 12.8:1 on cast internals; B20/Vtec, RS machine.
Static compression ratios are also not necessarily relevant to the actual compression ratios because of valve overlap and that could be the case with some guys running "15:1" on pump gas. Unfortunately, because the J's are SOHC, the valve overlap it predetermined by the cam. Also there are factors that have to be taken into account; for example, chamber shape and quench area.
If it's safe for Honda to send the J series out of the factory with a 11.2:1 compression ratio, a pentroof chamber, factory electronics, narrow-band O2 sensors, and heat risers on the pistons & chambers; it's probably safe for a fully worked, ceramic coated chamber and dome, dedicated wideband, and full standalone motor to see 12.5:1. At least we'll find out soon enough.
I did not think about the valve overlap playing a part in that. Good point!
10-22-2010, 07:58 AM
#397
Three Wheelin'
If it's tuned right, a 12:1 c/r can safely be driven on the street with 93 octane. I do it in my car. If your tuning options are limited you'll have to retard the timing. At that point it'd be better to go with lower compression.
EDIT: I think you might be under cammed with 12:1 unless you had a custom grind.
EDIT: I think you might be under cammed with 12:1 unless you had a custom grind.
Last edited by Blazin Si; 10-22-2010 at 08:06 AM.
10-22-2010, 08:31 AM
#399
Three Wheelin'
The guys on j32a.com are saying good things about the AEM system. It sounds like the only thing that's holding back the J series is the cams.
10-22-2010, 10:41 AM
#400
I would like to see 11-11.5:1 for mine.
Just need some knowledge from the right guy.
And with the speculation of the RL pistons lately.
I don't even want to hear that as a option for 11:1.
Last thing I want to do is buy simular pistons for no reason or I have someone build for me and they think they are simular too,and they use my old pistons anyway,and they try to keep the new for their own project or sell them for free dough.
All people that work on cars are not honest.
going to grind up the fuel injector bases now.
Last edited by richardparker; 10-22-2010 at 10:44 AM.