Any Dallas area meets? - July 22 (Thread Retired)
04-09-2005, 11:31 AM
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Boy, everything just quiets down on the weekends.
04-09-2005, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ATXCLS
As long as it does the job, I don't care. I just need to do it soon, so would you mind coming down this weekend please!!??
Didn't read until today.
04-09-2005, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ATXCLS
Swirls are the essence of my nightmares!!!
Black cars are be the bitch about teh swirlies.Hold on, I'll show you a NBP CLS 6 I take care of.
04-09-2005, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Chopper
Black cars are be the bitch about teh swirlies.Hold on, I'll show you a NBP CLS 6 I take care of.
04-09-2005, 06:33 PM
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
Okay, who's interested on the HP Rotors vs Rotoras.
The Rotoras are cheaper. $155 vs $191 for the HPs.
However, the HPs sound like a better design . . . . so
HP Rotor Buy List:
1 Ruf
2
3
4
Rotoras Buy List:
1
2
3
4
Ruf
The Rotoras are cheaper. $155 vs $191 for the HPs.
However, the HPs sound like a better design . . . . so
HP Rotor Buy List:
1 Ruf
2
3
4
Rotoras Buy List:
1
2
3
4
Ruf
04-09-2005, 10:48 PM
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Chopper
Black cars are be the bitch about teh swirlies.Hold on, I'll show you a NBP CLS 6 I take care of.
Ruf
04-10-2005, 04:59 AM
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Hey RUF,
Some general thoughts/comments about brakes that I have picked up. I don't know if they will help or not but here they are anyway.
1. Brakes have three major components to mess with: the rotor, the caliper, and the pads. The rest of the system you are not interested in messing with (except for the fluid and the rubber lines, which you might be considering).
2. Brake shimmy means you need have warped rotors and need to have them machined. A shop can check your runout and give you a quick and simple fix for about $75.
3. Very high heat creates the warping when the rotor cools at different rates across the face of the rotor. Two piece rotors help solve this, as does cryogenically treating iron rotors. Ultimately, you have to cool your rotors evenly if you get them really hot (this means keep driving on them without using them to get air flow over the caliper and rotor to cool them).
4. Caliper size has more to do with shedding heat than rotor design (the larger the caliper, the greater the heat sinking/transfering capacity of the system). This is why the Brembo big brake kit is so effective.
5. Your wheel HP will go down with heavy rotors and will go up with lighter rotors due to parasitic loss of power.
6. Pads can make a huge difference. Decide "street" or "track" but the two are not the same. Street focuses on high initial bite, low dust, low wear on the rotor, low noise, etc. Track doesn't care about much beyond the coefficient of grip at very hot temps so that breaking can be repeated under conditions you rarely see on the street (unless you are running the twisties).
7. Cross drilled rotors are more prone to cracking with little return for the risk. Slotted is OK, as are solid rotors. Venting of gasses is not a problem with modern pads. Cooling comes from the rotor design, the caliper, not the holes in the rotor itself (lots of misunderstanding here).
8. The use of brakes by the driver can dramatically impact the heat created. Short, hard braking creates less heat than long, slow breaking. When running multiple corners, this extra heat adds up.
9. Street braking typically is soft at the initial application, building up to hard at the end. Track braking is the opposit. Hard at the begining (like an emergency stop, almost) and easying off at the end (but quickly to not build up extra heat). Most drivers ruin their own brakes when running the twisties by not braking hard enough and then getting off the breaks and letting them cool between corners.
Whatever...
Some general thoughts/comments about brakes that I have picked up. I don't know if they will help or not but here they are anyway.
1. Brakes have three major components to mess with: the rotor, the caliper, and the pads. The rest of the system you are not interested in messing with (except for the fluid and the rubber lines, which you might be considering).
2. Brake shimmy means you need have warped rotors and need to have them machined. A shop can check your runout and give you a quick and simple fix for about $75.
3. Very high heat creates the warping when the rotor cools at different rates across the face of the rotor. Two piece rotors help solve this, as does cryogenically treating iron rotors. Ultimately, you have to cool your rotors evenly if you get them really hot (this means keep driving on them without using them to get air flow over the caliper and rotor to cool them).
4. Caliper size has more to do with shedding heat than rotor design (the larger the caliper, the greater the heat sinking/transfering capacity of the system). This is why the Brembo big brake kit is so effective.
5. Your wheel HP will go down with heavy rotors and will go up with lighter rotors due to parasitic loss of power.
6. Pads can make a huge difference. Decide "street" or "track" but the two are not the same. Street focuses on high initial bite, low dust, low wear on the rotor, low noise, etc. Track doesn't care about much beyond the coefficient of grip at very hot temps so that breaking can be repeated under conditions you rarely see on the street (unless you are running the twisties).
7. Cross drilled rotors are more prone to cracking with little return for the risk. Slotted is OK, as are solid rotors. Venting of gasses is not a problem with modern pads. Cooling comes from the rotor design, the caliper, not the holes in the rotor itself (lots of misunderstanding here).
8. The use of brakes by the driver can dramatically impact the heat created. Short, hard braking creates less heat than long, slow breaking. When running multiple corners, this extra heat adds up.
9. Street braking typically is soft at the initial application, building up to hard at the end. Track braking is the opposit. Hard at the begining (like an emergency stop, almost) and easying off at the end (but quickly to not build up extra heat). Most drivers ruin their own brakes when running the twisties by not braking hard enough and then getting off the breaks and letting them cool between corners.
Whatever...
04-10-2005, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RUF87
right here . . . . just checking to see if anyone is really looking . . .
http://www.rotora.com/cgi-local/Soft...b6e+1114228752
Ruf
http://www.rotora.com/cgi-local/Soft...b6e+1114228752
Ruf
04-10-2005, 09:02 PM
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by InfernoTLS
Hey RUF,
Some general thoughts/comments about brakes that I have picked up. I don't know if they will help or not but here they are anyway.
1. Brakes have three major components to mess with: the rotor, the caliper, and the pads. The rest of the system you are not interested in messing with (except for the fluid and the rubber lines, which you might be considering).
2. Brake shimmy means you need have warped rotors and need to have them machined. A shop can check your runout and give you a quick and simple fix for about $75.
3. Very high heat creates the warping when the rotor cools at different rates across the face of the rotor. Two piece rotors help solve this, as does cryogenically treating iron rotors. Ultimately, you have to cool your rotors evenly if you get them really hot (this means keep driving on them without using them to get air flow over the caliper and rotor to cool them).
4. Caliper size has more to do with shedding heat than rotor design (the larger the caliper, the greater the heat sinking/transfering capacity of the system). This is why the Brembo big brake kit is so effective.
5. Your wheel HP will go down with heavy rotors and will go up with lighter rotors due to parasitic loss of power.
6. Pads can make a huge difference. Decide "street" or "track" but the two are not the same. Street focuses on high initial bite, low dust, low wear on the rotor, low noise, etc. Track doesn't care about much beyond the coefficient of grip at very hot temps so that breaking can be repeated under conditions you rarely see on the street (unless you are running the twisties).
7. Cross drilled rotors are more prone to cracking with little return for the risk. Slotted is OK, as are solid rotors. Venting of gasses is not a problem with modern pads. Cooling comes from the rotor design, the caliper, not the holes in the rotor itself (lots of misunderstanding here).
8. The use of brakes by the driver can dramatically impact the heat created. Short, hard braking creates less heat than long, slow breaking. When running multiple corners, this extra heat adds up.
9. Street braking typically is soft at the initial application, building up to hard at the end. Track braking is the opposit. Hard at the begining (like an emergency stop, almost) and easying off at the end (but quickly to not build up extra heat). Most drivers ruin their own brakes when running the twisties by not braking hard enough and then getting off the breaks and letting them cool between corners.
Whatever...
Some general thoughts/comments about brakes that I have picked up. I don't know if they will help or not but here they are anyway.
1. Brakes have three major components to mess with: the rotor, the caliper, and the pads. The rest of the system you are not interested in messing with (except for the fluid and the rubber lines, which you might be considering).
2. Brake shimmy means you need have warped rotors and need to have them machined. A shop can check your runout and give you a quick and simple fix for about $75.
3. Very high heat creates the warping when the rotor cools at different rates across the face of the rotor. Two piece rotors help solve this, as does cryogenically treating iron rotors. Ultimately, you have to cool your rotors evenly if you get them really hot (this means keep driving on them without using them to get air flow over the caliper and rotor to cool them).
4. Caliper size has more to do with shedding heat than rotor design (the larger the caliper, the greater the heat sinking/transfering capacity of the system). This is why the Brembo big brake kit is so effective.
5. Your wheel HP will go down with heavy rotors and will go up with lighter rotors due to parasitic loss of power.
6. Pads can make a huge difference. Decide "street" or "track" but the two are not the same. Street focuses on high initial bite, low dust, low wear on the rotor, low noise, etc. Track doesn't care about much beyond the coefficient of grip at very hot temps so that breaking can be repeated under conditions you rarely see on the street (unless you are running the twisties).
7. Cross drilled rotors are more prone to cracking with little return for the risk. Slotted is OK, as are solid rotors. Venting of gasses is not a problem with modern pads. Cooling comes from the rotor design, the caliper, not the holes in the rotor itself (lots of misunderstanding here).
8. The use of brakes by the driver can dramatically impact the heat created. Short, hard braking creates less heat than long, slow breaking. When running multiple corners, this extra heat adds up.
9. Street braking typically is soft at the initial application, building up to hard at the end. Track braking is the opposit. Hard at the begining (like an emergency stop, almost) and easying off at the end (but quickly to not build up extra heat). Most drivers ruin their own brakes when running the twisties by not braking hard enough and then getting off the breaks and letting them cool between corners.
Whatever...
. . . but keep going . . . what is the recommendation for heavy street use? . . . dust in a 
for use every day dirvers . . . the HPs have a nice curved venting which is designed to help cooling so they say . . . big brake kit is not an option . . too much $$$$, so if your racing buddies have any thoughts I'm all ears . . . 
I've got about $400 to spend maybe another $50 or so, but that's it for poor little ol me. 
Ruf
04-10-2005, 09:04 PM
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by DeezNutz
These are what I have on the front.
and how are they holding up? (how long you had them?)
how do they handle multiple hard stops?
what pads are you using . . . and what if any draw backs?
TIA
Ruf
04-11-2005, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by RUF87
Lots of good information . . . but keep going . . . what is the recommendation for heavy street use? . . . dust in a for use every day dirvers . . . the HPs have a nice curved venting which is designed to help cooling so they say . . . big brake kit is not an option . . too much $$$$, so if your racing buddies have any thoughts I'm all ears . . . I've got about $400 to spend maybe another $50 or so, but that's it for poor little ol me.
Ruf
. . . but keep going . . . what is the recommendation for heavy street use? . . . dust in a for use every day dirvers . . . the HPs have a nice curved venting which is designed to help cooling so they say . . . big brake kit is not an option . . too much $$$$, so if your racing buddies have any thoughts I'm all ears . . . I've got about $400 to spend maybe another $50 or so, but that's it for poor little ol me. Ruf
The way to reduce weight is to go to a two piece rotor. Over time, you will be replacing the only the rotor and not the hat (not a significant factor, most likely).
The "right" pad is something that should be researched extensively before purchase. I have tried 4 different pads on the STi in the last 18 months because it was a new model (Brembo) that didn't have many options or people with experience using various pads the first year. I now have street pads and track pads that work the way I like (although I could use a lower dusting street pad).
I am sure there is a good street pad for the TL-S that can be found with a little searching and asking of questions!
04-11-2005, 08:09 AM
Originally Posted by InfernoTLS
Hey RUF,
Some general thoughts/comments about brakes that I have picked up. I don't know if they will help or not but here they are anyway.
1. Brakes have three major components to mess with: the rotor, the caliper, and the pads. The rest of the system you are not interested in messing with (except for the fluid and the rubber lines, which you might be considering).
2. Brake shimmy means you need have warped rotors and need to have them machined. A shop can check your runout and give you a quick and simple fix for about $75.
3. Very high heat creates the warping when the rotor cools at different rates across the face of the rotor. Two piece rotors help solve this, as does cryogenically treating iron rotors. Ultimately, you have to cool your rotors evenly if you get them really hot (this means keep driving on them without using them to get air flow over the caliper and rotor to cool them).
4. Caliper size has more to do with shedding heat than rotor design (the larger the caliper, the greater the heat sinking/transfering capacity of the system). This is why the Brembo big brake kit is so effective.
5. Your wheel HP will go down with heavy rotors and will go up with lighter rotors due to parasitic loss of power.
6. Pads can make a huge difference. Decide "street" or "track" but the two are not the same. Street focuses on high initial bite, low dust, low wear on the rotor, low noise, etc. Track doesn't care about much beyond the coefficient of grip at very hot temps so that breaking can be repeated under conditions you rarely see on the street (unless you are running the twisties).
7. Cross drilled rotors are more prone to cracking with little return for the risk. Slotted is OK, as are solid rotors. Venting of gasses is not a problem with modern pads. Cooling comes from the rotor design, the caliper, not the holes in the rotor itself (lots of misunderstanding here).
8. The use of brakes by the driver can dramatically impact the heat created. Short, hard braking creates less heat than long, slow breaking. When running multiple corners, this extra heat adds up.
9. Street braking typically is soft at the initial application, building up to hard at the end. Track braking is the opposit. Hard at the begining (like an emergency stop, almost) and easying off at the end (but quickly to not build up extra heat). Most drivers ruin their own brakes when running the twisties by not braking hard enough and then getting off the breaks and letting them cool between corners.
Whatever...
Some general thoughts/comments about brakes that I have picked up. I don't know if they will help or not but here they are anyway.
1. Brakes have three major components to mess with: the rotor, the caliper, and the pads. The rest of the system you are not interested in messing with (except for the fluid and the rubber lines, which you might be considering).
2. Brake shimmy means you need have warped rotors and need to have them machined. A shop can check your runout and give you a quick and simple fix for about $75.
3. Very high heat creates the warping when the rotor cools at different rates across the face of the rotor. Two piece rotors help solve this, as does cryogenically treating iron rotors. Ultimately, you have to cool your rotors evenly if you get them really hot (this means keep driving on them without using them to get air flow over the caliper and rotor to cool them).
4. Caliper size has more to do with shedding heat than rotor design (the larger the caliper, the greater the heat sinking/transfering capacity of the system). This is why the Brembo big brake kit is so effective.
5. Your wheel HP will go down with heavy rotors and will go up with lighter rotors due to parasitic loss of power.
6. Pads can make a huge difference. Decide "street" or "track" but the two are not the same. Street focuses on high initial bite, low dust, low wear on the rotor, low noise, etc. Track doesn't care about much beyond the coefficient of grip at very hot temps so that breaking can be repeated under conditions you rarely see on the street (unless you are running the twisties).
7. Cross drilled rotors are more prone to cracking with little return for the risk. Slotted is OK, as are solid rotors. Venting of gasses is not a problem with modern pads. Cooling comes from the rotor design, the caliper, not the holes in the rotor itself (lots of misunderstanding here).
8. The use of brakes by the driver can dramatically impact the heat created. Short, hard braking creates less heat than long, slow breaking. When running multiple corners, this extra heat adds up.
9. Street braking typically is soft at the initial application, building up to hard at the end. Track braking is the opposit. Hard at the begining (like an emergency stop, almost) and easying off at the end (but quickly to not build up extra heat). Most drivers ruin their own brakes when running the twisties by not braking hard enough and then getting off the breaks and letting them cool between corners.
Whatever...
04-11-2005, 08:10 AM
Originally Posted by mantis23
I'll be in Austin Saturday April 9th around n00n. I'm staying at the double tree on 6th street?
I'm leave Sunday morning, so I won't be there long.
Maybe I'll run into you ATX.
My schedule consists of
1. drinking.
2. passing out.
3. Refer to 1 & 2.
I'm leave Sunday morning, so I won't be there long.
Maybe I'll run into you ATX.
My schedule consists of
1. drinking.
2. passing out.
3. Refer to 1 & 2.
04-11-2005, 09:52 AM
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Hi everybody!! 
04-11-2005, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by InfernoTLS
Hey RUF,
Some general thoughts/comments about brakes that I have picked up. I don't know if they will help or not but here they are anyway.
1. Brakes have three major components to mess with: the rotor, the caliper, and the pads. The rest of the system you are not interested in messing with (except for the fluid and the rubber lines, which you might be considering).
2. Brake shimmy means you need have warped rotors and need to have them machined. A shop can check your runout and give you a quick and simple fix for about $75.
3. Very high heat creates the warping when the rotor cools at different rates across the face of the rotor. Two piece rotors help solve this, as does cryogenically treating iron rotors. Ultimately, you have to cool your rotors evenly if you get them really hot (this means keep driving on them without using them to get air flow over the caliper and rotor to cool them).
4. Caliper size has more to do with shedding heat than rotor design (the larger the caliper, the greater the heat sinking/transfering capacity of the system). This is why the Brembo big brake kit is so effective.
5. Your wheel HP will go down with heavy rotors and will go up with lighter rotors due to parasitic loss of power.
6. Pads can make a huge difference. Decide "street" or "track" but the two are not the same. Street focuses on high initial bite, low dust, low wear on the rotor, low noise, etc. Track doesn't care about much beyond the coefficient of grip at very hot temps so that breaking can be repeated under conditions you rarely see on the street (unless you are running the twisties).
7. Cross drilled rotors are more prone to cracking with little return for the risk. Slotted is OK, as are solid rotors. Venting of gasses is not a problem with modern pads. Cooling comes from the rotor design, the caliper, not the holes in the rotor itself (lots of misunderstanding here).
8. The use of brakes by the driver can dramatically impact the heat created. Short, hard braking creates less heat than long, slow breaking. When running multiple corners, this extra heat adds up.
9. Street braking typically is soft at the initial application, building up to hard at the end. Track braking is the opposit. Hard at the begining (like an emergency stop, almost) and easying off at the end (but quickly to not build up extra heat). Most drivers ruin their own brakes when running the twisties by not braking hard enough and then getting off the breaks and letting them cool between corners.
Whatever...
Some general thoughts/comments about brakes that I have picked up. I don't know if they will help or not but here they are anyway.
1. Brakes have three major components to mess with: the rotor, the caliper, and the pads. The rest of the system you are not interested in messing with (except for the fluid and the rubber lines, which you might be considering).
2. Brake shimmy means you need have warped rotors and need to have them machined. A shop can check your runout and give you a quick and simple fix for about $75.
3. Very high heat creates the warping when the rotor cools at different rates across the face of the rotor. Two piece rotors help solve this, as does cryogenically treating iron rotors. Ultimately, you have to cool your rotors evenly if you get them really hot (this means keep driving on them without using them to get air flow over the caliper and rotor to cool them).
4. Caliper size has more to do with shedding heat than rotor design (the larger the caliper, the greater the heat sinking/transfering capacity of the system). This is why the Brembo big brake kit is so effective.
5. Your wheel HP will go down with heavy rotors and will go up with lighter rotors due to parasitic loss of power.
6. Pads can make a huge difference. Decide "street" or "track" but the two are not the same. Street focuses on high initial bite, low dust, low wear on the rotor, low noise, etc. Track doesn't care about much beyond the coefficient of grip at very hot temps so that breaking can be repeated under conditions you rarely see on the street (unless you are running the twisties).
7. Cross drilled rotors are more prone to cracking with little return for the risk. Slotted is OK, as are solid rotors. Venting of gasses is not a problem with modern pads. Cooling comes from the rotor design, the caliper, not the holes in the rotor itself (lots of misunderstanding here).
8. The use of brakes by the driver can dramatically impact the heat created. Short, hard braking creates less heat than long, slow breaking. When running multiple corners, this extra heat adds up.
9. Street braking typically is soft at the initial application, building up to hard at the end. Track braking is the opposit. Hard at the begining (like an emergency stop, almost) and easying off at the end (but quickly to not build up extra heat). Most drivers ruin their own brakes when running the twisties by not braking hard enough and then getting off the breaks and letting them cool between corners.
Whatever...
04-11-2005, 10:24 AM
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
More good brake information.
http://www.raceshopper.com/tech.shtml#brake_performance
Yes, I'm a bit anal in doing research . . .
It now looks like I may go SP Performance Diamond slotted rotors. They are list $197 front and $146 rear, but I'm trying to get a discount.
The choice and description of pads helps guide you to which ones to get. They also have the steel line with free speed bleeders if ordered this month. Stay tuned.
Ruf
http://www.raceshopper.com/tech.shtml#brake_performance
Yes, I'm a bit anal in doing research . . .
It now looks like I may go SP Performance Diamond slotted rotors. They are list $197 front and $146 rear, but I'm trying to get a discount.
The choice and description of pads helps guide you to which ones to get. They also have the steel line with free speed bleeders if ordered this month. Stay tuned.
Ruf
04-11-2005, 12:42 PM
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
Brake System Upgrade Interest.
Note: I'm going to talk to Jonesi and see how we need to handle this.
Folks,
I'm 99 44/100% certain what I'm going to do regarding the brake system upgrade.
I spoke with a guy at RaceShopper.com about application, technology and pricing. After researching brake rotors, pads and pricing I believe these are the ones to work with. These are not blanks that a finished to our specs and then slotted and or cross drilled, but designed from the ground up to meet high performance applications and quality. There not the cheapest, but the best total cost over time in my opinion.
If you are interested let me know what you want to do. The pricing is list, but volume discounts would apply with a minimum of 20 sets (fronts and or rears) . . and for any application they can make for us . . . including Hummers. The price break at 20 units would get us the following pricing and a discount on any other items they sell regardless of quantity.
They are a top 5 Largest Distributor of Performance Braking Products and accessories in the USA!
Here's what I'm thinking based on my discussions. All pricing is based on CL/TL with slight differences on some products. Rotor pricing was the same regardless.
SP Performance Rotors - Slotted only . . . best period they say on more than 1 site
-----------------------------------------------
List per set: 20 unit minimum Nickle coated
F - $197.04 F - $158.87 $177.86
R - $146.05 R - $117.20 $136.22
http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml
Hawk HPS Pads:
---------------------
List per set: with 20 Rotor GB
F - $79.00 $70.09
R - $51.00 $49.90
Hawk HPS - High Performance Street
Street Use Hawk Performance HPS compound provides advanced braking characteristics to enhance your driving experience. This unique compound combines the safety and quality of Aerospace design partnered with the braking technology of motorsports.
- Extremely low dust
- High friction/torque hot or cold
- Gentle on rotors
- Virtually noise-free
- Much improved braking over OE
- Long extended pad life
Russell® Stainless Steel Brake lines
----------------------------------------------
List Price: with 20 Rotor GB
Full Set F&R - $121 $86.20
Speed Bleeders
Set of 2 - $12.96 $8.45
ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) Brake Fluid
----------------------------------------------
List Price: with 20 Rotor GB
Per Liter - $9.75 $8.34
Per Case - $95.00 $83.34
http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
Sample Total Deal.
Front rotors and pads - $228.96, plus TT&L. (with Nickel coating $18.99 more)
w/ SS bake lines, speed bleeders and fluid - $331.84, plus TT&L. (with Nicklel coating $18.99 more)
Complete package (with Nickel coating) $545.51, plus TT&L
As noted, these prices may vary slightly on items other than rotors, but I feel that for the product we are looking at, these are great prices. So let me know who's in on the rotors and I'll work with Jonesi on how we need to do this so we are not stepping on any toes.
I'm getting the fronts regardless of the deal, but need everyone to confirm by 4/24 so I can get my order in and at least take advantage of the free speed bleeders.
Ruf
Note: I'm going to talk to Jonesi and see how we need to handle this.
Folks,
I'm 99 44/100% certain what I'm going to do regarding the brake system upgrade.
I spoke with a guy at RaceShopper.com about application, technology and pricing. After researching brake rotors, pads and pricing I believe these are the ones to work with. These are not blanks that a finished to our specs and then slotted and or cross drilled, but designed from the ground up to meet high performance applications and quality. There not the cheapest, but the best total cost over time in my opinion.
If you are interested let me know what you want to do. The pricing is list, but volume discounts would apply with a minimum of 20 sets (fronts and or rears) . . and for any application they can make for us . . . including Hummers. The price break at 20 units would get us the following pricing and a discount on any other items they sell regardless of quantity.
They are a top 5 Largest Distributor of Performance Braking Products and accessories in the USA!
Here's what I'm thinking based on my discussions. All pricing is based on CL/TL with slight differences on some products. Rotor pricing was the same regardless.
SP Performance Rotors - Slotted only . . . best period they say on more than 1 site
-----------------------------------------------
List per set: 20 unit minimum Nickle coated
F - $197.04 F - $158.87 $177.86
R - $146.05 R - $117.20 $136.22
http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml
Hawk HPS Pads:
---------------------
List per set: with 20 Rotor GB
F - $79.00 $70.09
R - $51.00 $49.90
Hawk HPS - High Performance Street
Street Use Hawk Performance HPS compound provides advanced braking characteristics to enhance your driving experience. This unique compound combines the safety and quality of Aerospace design partnered with the braking technology of motorsports.
- Extremely low dust
- High friction/torque hot or cold
- Gentle on rotors
- Virtually noise-free
- Much improved braking over OE
- Long extended pad life
Russell® Stainless Steel Brake lines
----------------------------------------------
List Price: with 20 Rotor GB
Full Set F&R - $121 $86.20
Speed Bleeders
Set of 2 - $12.96 $8.45
ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) Brake Fluid
----------------------------------------------
List Price: with 20 Rotor GB
Per Liter - $9.75 $8.34
Per Case - $95.00 $83.34
http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
Sample Total Deal.
Front rotors and pads - $228.96, plus TT&L. (with Nickel coating $18.99 more)
w/ SS bake lines, speed bleeders and fluid - $331.84, plus TT&L. (with Nicklel coating $18.99 more)
Complete package (with Nickel coating) $545.51, plus TT&L
As noted, these prices may vary slightly on items other than rotors, but I feel that for the product we are looking at, these are great prices. So let me know who's in on the rotors and I'll work with Jonesi on how we need to do this so we are not stepping on any toes.
I'm getting the fronts regardless of the deal, but need everyone to confirm by 4/24 so I can get my order in and at least take advantage of the free speed bleeders.
Ruf
04-11-2005, 01:20 PM
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by RUF87
I'm getting the fronts regardless of the deal, but need everyone to confirm by 4/24 so I can get my order in and at least take advantage of the free speed bleeders.
Ruf
Ruf
Ruf
:gheywave: 
04-11-2005, 03:19 PM
Senior Moderator
Regions Leader
Regions Leader
Hey Ruf can you do that much research for me so I can decide on what struts and springs to put on my CL? LOL!! ...no but seriously....can you?
04-11-2005, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RUF87
and how are they holding up? (how long you had them?)
how do they handle multiple hard stops?
what pads are you using . . . and what if any draw backs?
TIA
Ruf
how do they handle multiple hard stops?
what pads are you using . . . and what if any draw backs?
TIA
Ruf
I can only really report that the stopping power is definitely improved quite a bit -- most likely due to the pads. I can't really say that the rotor upgrade helps stopping distance (esp. in heated braking) because I just haven't layed into them repeatedly like I would at a track.
Lata
04-11-2005, 03:50 PM
So, I just finished doing my Taxes, I know, a little late, and am going to be getting just over $2,000 back!!! So, I know that I should have adjusted my deductions when I bought the house, but I didn't, and ended up having Uncle Sam hold my money for them (how nice of them!).
Anyways, I will be ordering the headers either this week or next!! I can't wait!!
Anyways, I will be ordering the headers either this week or next!! I can't wait!!
04-11-2005, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ATXCLS
So, I just finished doing my Taxes, I know, a little late, and am going to be getting just over $2,000 back!!! So, I know that I should have adjusted my deductions when I bought the house, but I didn't, and ended up having Uncle Sam hold my money for them (how nice of them!).
Anyways, I will be ordering the headers either this week or next!! I can't wait!!
Anyways, I will be ordering the headers either this week or next!! I can't wait!!
Uncle Sam was nice to you
04-11-2005, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ATXCLS
So, I just finished doing my Taxes, I know, a little late, and am going to be getting just over $2,000 back!!! So, I know that I should have adjusted my deductions when I bought the house, but I didn't, and ended up having Uncle Sam hold my money for them (how nice of them!).
Anyways, I will be ordering the headers either this week or next!! I can't wait!!
Anyways, I will be ordering the headers either this week or next!! I can't wait!!
Hope ya get them headers on there soon -- they're fun.
04-11-2005, 05:02 PM
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ATXCLS
So, I just finished doing my Taxes, I know, a little late, and am going to be getting just over $2,000 back!!! So, I know that I should have adjusted my deductions when I bought the house, but I didn't, and ended up having Uncle Sam hold my money for them (how nice of them!).
Anyways, I will be ordering the headers either this week or next!! I can't wait!!
Anyways, I will be ordering the headers either this week or next!! I can't wait!!
2x so are you going to get brakes too?
Ruf
04-11-2005, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RUF87
2x so are you going to get brakes too?
Ruf
He's got the taco supreme of brakes compared to the rest of us.
04-11-2005, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RUF87
Brake System Upgrade Interest.
Note: I'm going to talk to Jonesi and see how we need to handle this.
Folks,
I'm 99 44/100% certain what I'm going to do regarding the brake system upgrade.
I spoke with a guy at RaceShopper.com about application, technology and pricing. After researching brake rotors, pads and pricing I believe these are the ones to work with. These are not blanks that a finished to our specs and then slotted and or cross drilled, but designed from the ground up to meet high performance applications and quality. There not the cheapest, but the best total cost over time in my opinion.
If you are interested let me know what you want to do. The pricing is list, but volume discounts would apply with a minimum of 20 sets (fronts and or rears) . . and for any application they can make for us . . . including Hummers. The price break at 20 units would get us the following pricing and a discount on any other items they sell regardless of quantity.
They are a top 5 Largest Distributor of Performance Braking Products and accessories in the USA!
Here's what I'm thinking based on my discussions. All pricing is based on CL/TL with slight differences on some products. Rotor pricing was the same regardless.
SP Performance Rotors - Slotted only . . . best period they say on more than 1 site
-----------------------------------------------
List per set: 20 unit minimum Nickle coated
F - $197.04 F - $158.87 $177.86
R - $146.05 R - $117.20 $136.22
http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml
Hawk HPS Pads:
---------------------
List per set: with 20 Rotor GB
F - $79.00 $70.09
R - $51.00 $49.90
Hawk HPS - High Performance Street
Street Use Hawk Performance HPS compound provides advanced braking characteristics to enhance your driving experience. This unique compound combines the safety and quality of Aerospace design partnered with the braking technology of motorsports.
- Extremely low dust
- High friction/torque hot or cold
- Gentle on rotors
- Virtually noise-free
- Much improved braking over OE
- Long extended pad life
Russell® Stainless Steel Brake lines
----------------------------------------------
List Price: with 20 Rotor GB
Full Set F&R - $121 $86.20
Speed Bleeders
Set of 2 - $12.96 $8.45
ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) Brake Fluid
----------------------------------------------
List Price: with 20 Rotor GB
Per Liter - $9.75 $8.34
Per Case - $95.00 $83.34
http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
Sample Total Deal.
Front rotors and pads - $228.96, plus TT&L. (with Nickel coating $18.99 more)
w/ SS bake lines, speed bleeders and fluid - $331.84, plus TT&L. (with Nicklel coating $18.99 more)
Complete package (with Nickel coating) $545.51, plus TT&L
As noted, these prices may vary slightly on items other than rotors, but I feel that for the product we are looking at, these are great prices. So let me know who's in on the rotors and I'll work with Jonesi on how we need to do this so we are not stepping on any toes.
I'm getting the fronts regardless of the deal, but need everyone to confirm by 4/24 so I can get my order in and at least take advantage of the free speed bleeders.
Ruf
Note: I'm going to talk to Jonesi and see how we need to handle this.
Folks,
I'm 99 44/100% certain what I'm going to do regarding the brake system upgrade.
I spoke with a guy at RaceShopper.com about application, technology and pricing. After researching brake rotors, pads and pricing I believe these are the ones to work with. These are not blanks that a finished to our specs and then slotted and or cross drilled, but designed from the ground up to meet high performance applications and quality. There not the cheapest, but the best total cost over time in my opinion.
If you are interested let me know what you want to do. The pricing is list, but volume discounts would apply with a minimum of 20 sets (fronts and or rears) . . and for any application they can make for us . . . including Hummers. The price break at 20 units would get us the following pricing and a discount on any other items they sell regardless of quantity.
They are a top 5 Largest Distributor of Performance Braking Products and accessories in the USA!
Here's what I'm thinking based on my discussions. All pricing is based on CL/TL with slight differences on some products. Rotor pricing was the same regardless.
SP Performance Rotors - Slotted only . . . best period they say on more than 1 site
-----------------------------------------------
List per set: 20 unit minimum Nickle coated
F - $197.04 F - $158.87 $177.86
R - $146.05 R - $117.20 $136.22
http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml
Hawk HPS Pads:
---------------------
List per set: with 20 Rotor GB
F - $79.00 $70.09
R - $51.00 $49.90
Hawk HPS - High Performance Street
Street Use Hawk Performance HPS compound provides advanced braking characteristics to enhance your driving experience. This unique compound combines the safety and quality of Aerospace design partnered with the braking technology of motorsports.
- Extremely low dust
- High friction/torque hot or cold
- Gentle on rotors
- Virtually noise-free
- Much improved braking over OE
- Long extended pad life
Russell® Stainless Steel Brake lines
----------------------------------------------
List Price: with 20 Rotor GB
Full Set F&R - $121 $86.20
Speed Bleeders
Set of 2 - $12.96 $8.45
ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) Brake Fluid
----------------------------------------------
List Price: with 20 Rotor GB
Per Liter - $9.75 $8.34
Per Case - $95.00 $83.34
http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
Sample Total Deal.
Front rotors and pads - $228.96, plus TT&L. (with Nickel coating $18.99 more)
w/ SS bake lines, speed bleeders and fluid - $331.84, plus TT&L. (with Nicklel coating $18.99 more)
Complete package (with Nickel coating) $545.51, plus TT&L
As noted, these prices may vary slightly on items other than rotors, but I feel that for the product we are looking at, these are great prices. So let me know who's in on the rotors and I'll work with Jonesi on how we need to do this so we are not stepping on any toes.
I'm getting the fronts regardless of the deal, but need everyone to confirm by 4/24 so I can get my order in and at least take advantage of the free speed bleeders.
Ruf