When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
is the 6speed harder to launch consistently though?
A little, that's why I want a launch control.
Without the launch control I have to use my foot to control the rpms while preloading the drive train with the ebrake.
3 out of my 4 runs were pretty consistent.
1 was crappy because I spun the tires all of first.
I consistently pull 1.8 60fts 8.4 @86
Originally Posted by brian6speed
I find the manual easy to launch, but you need to get use to it.
Weight removal might not help that much because main issue is traction.
The manual is easy to launch If you have the time. Only thing is if you don't have time to preloaded the drivetrain to your desired rpms and the lights start moving then you will be inconsistent.
The launch control will actually give you a little more time to focus without having to look at the dash watching the rpms before the lights start moving.
Weight could be a small issue but I'm thinking its in the valve adjustment or the clutch not being broken in yet.
Probably only have just over 200 miles on it.
Originally Posted by AnthraciteTypeS
Were your traps higher with the 6 speed though?
Everything was better with the auto so far. It had more mph for sure but I do think the 6 speed will run better after some tweaking and more parts.
The manual definitely gains its advantage up top after the autos 1st and 2nd gears. I bet you'd see a bigger difference in a 1/4 as opposed to 1/8 where the manual really has a chance to stretch its better gearing.
When my old auto shifted into 4th, it literally fell out of vtec and flat on its face..probably right around the beams in the 1/4
I just got done adjusting my valves. All the exhaust valves were a touch tight for my liking. So I backed them off a touch to a looser 12
Mostly every intake valve was perfect.
Thinking about removing the tiny manifold horns and shaping the body of the manifold to be the shape of the horns.
I want to do it for it to act like shorter runners and increase the manifold volume at the same time.
Only thing if it does not perform better I just ruined my manifold.
Well, the manifold is getting more port work done right now.
I think what I'm doing is going to work out good.
Runners are definitely going to be shorter in lenth and the way I'm doing them they will have huge openings now that will be tapered into the runners.
The manifold will have more volume and lose a little more weight.
I'm also going to try to take out more aluminum internally to gain more volume as well.
Pics up tonight ?
Any chance of a before and after dyno? Are you doing it as a P2R plenum alternative to allow more volume?
Could end up being a lot of work for nothing, but can't say for sure till you try it.
Custom exhaust seems to be best place to spend money and make gains. That seems like more of a restriction than intake. 1 7/8" primaries to 2.5" DP to 3" exhaust.
Any chance of a before and after dyno? Are you doing it as a P2R plenum alternative to allow more volume?
Could end up being a lot of work for nothing, but can't say for sure till you try it.
Custom exhaust seems to be best place to spend money and make gains. That seems like more of a restriction than intake. 1 7/8" primaries to 2.5" DP to 3" exhaust.
No dynos ever yet.
Yeah a cant find any plenums so I'm trying to move the power a little higher in the band (if possible).
Since I'll be back to the nitrous soon I wont mind if it loose a little low end.
The nitrous will make up for whatever its slacking.
I'm only running the coated header and the xlr8 cat ,and that's it.
Maybe I should put a exhaust on I think it ran faster with it.
First 3 holes on the manifold almost done, I've been busy to put in the work to get it done.
No finished pics ,just finished it and got it all back together and just took it for a short ride down the street just now.
So I loosened the exhaust valves, worked the manifold,and put new plugs in.
At start up the car seamed to idle easier and sounded smoother.
Car seamed faster 1st and 2nd thats about all i got going down my street.
But in 2nd I hit the gas and lite the tires all of 2nd easy.
Cant wait till sunday,I think the car is faster.
Im betting loosing the valves did it.
I would say with 99.9% certainty you dont have any mechanical issues. The issue/reason your numbers are lower are most likely the gearing, traction, and launch. While you may think its a consistent launch or a good one i would bet there is room for improvement. I have been driving stick pretty much my whole life and can say very few launches are consistent or optimal. There is a very fine line you have to run of wheel spin on launch without full blown spinning. Especially with street tires. I would also stop running 1/8 and start running 1/4. Especially with the manual gearing and your power and weight. It would give you a better number to compare to how you are doing with the rest
Was going to mention looking at changing final drive, but just saw you already posted in that thread. Maybe there is an accord or some other honda/acura you can get one from, without having to pay TB Motorworx prices.
Not sure if the 6 speed will live up to your expectations as a drag only car tranny.
Was going to mention looking at changing final drive, but just saw you already posted in that thread. Maybe there is an accord or some other honda/acura you can get one from, without having to pay TB Motorworx prices.
Not sure if the 6 speed will live up to your expectations as a drag only car tranny.
(it is lighter which will help the car, and far more reliable but will be harder to get the same time, time after time with the launch
Autos are far better for consistency and are typically now days faster. The Manual can be quick if launched correctly and shifted quickly without mis-shifts. It will also come into its stride more in the 1/4 than the 1/8
Getting it in today.
I got the engine and trans ready to come out by 11am,Just waiting for a friend with a lift.
I'm getting good at pulling these things I don't even think I put 3hrs into it to have it ready to pull out.
Hopefully the trans will be at the shop and back in the car this weekend.
decided not to run front and rear torque dampers because I did not want to add weight.
Those dampers are pretty heavy.
Instead I ordered Innovative 95a extreme engine mounts today.
Got my new flywheel. This one is way tighter than the other one I had.
The other one I had was looser than this one right out the box and is kinda sloppy now.
Is it normal for the flywheels to become sloppy or should they stay tight ?
Last edited by richardparker; Jun 8, 2015 at 05:33 PM.
Got my clutch master fx400 for OEM flywheel.
Disappointed by the looks.
First off, I was unaware they were including a sac PP with the kit.
2nd ,the throwout bearing in the kit looks like the same garbage being sold on ebay.
And 3rd, the p2r hub on the disc looked more beefier.
2 things I did like were:
The PP looks like it was resurfaced from the get go and feels like it would have more bite before breaking in.
And the fingers on the PP are modified at least twice as high as the OEM pressure plate .
It should hold better but,we will see.
With that list of parts I wonder why I haven't started it yet.
I've really been busy.
All is in besides axles,knuckles and wheels.
I only have 2 cars left in my way of working on my car.
I finshed the car and drove it very littlebut I think its going to be faster.
My car loves being over 3k rpms and from start up it kills me to stay under 3k rpms.
I also don't think there was much added vibrations from 75a to 95a mounts.
Shifts also feel a little more tighter since the mounts.
Did a little more aggressive driving compared to babying it.
Letting clutch out chirps the or spins the tires so easy.
Like not even trying.
Also did some quicker shifting and taking the rpms to 4-4.5k with maybe a 1/4-1/3 throttle and the car pulls strong,really strong.
I can only imagine how its going to be full throttle.
By driving today I would say it will easily spin 4th on it and perhaps into 5th.
If you want a faster car this gear set will definitely be the mod you should do,no dought.
did a little more aggressive driving compared to babying it.
Letting clutch out chirps the or spins the tires so easy.
Like not even trying.
Also did some quicker shifting and taking the rpms to 4-4.5k with maybe a 1/4-1/3 throttle and the car pulls strong,really strong.
I can only imagine how its going to be full throttle.
By driving today i would say it will easily spin 4th on it and perhaps into 5th.
If you want a faster car this gear set will definitely be the mod you should do,no dought.
No vids yet.
Let me get more time on the clutch first ,I probably only got 150 miles on it.
I don't want a low rpm vid and I don't want to fry the clutch setup (again) being too impatient.
Maybe be the end of next month. I don't drive it very much.
Before my track closes for the season I'm going to get the facts.
If theirs improvements the slips will show them.
(it is lighter which will help the car, and far more reliable but will be harder to get the same time, time after time with the launch
