How's the power?

 

I have money on my credit cards...wondering if I should bite the bullet and get dp and flashpro.

 

The car is pulling way harder.. there is no doubt. It hops and torque steers more frequently.. the tires lose traction much easier. And, the over all satisfaction of the sound throughout the powerband is awesome. I love hearing how it changes from 3000-4500, 4500-5800, then 5800-6800 then it really goes nuts for that last leg to 7600.

I think the DP is going to be your biggest power gain, but reality wise.. it didn't feel like much until the tune started getting better.. Him working with me is actually to your benefit to, as it shouldn't take as long to go through the motions now that he has base tune maps for the ILX and more specifically you would have nearly the same mods outside you going catless.


I will say this.. Credit card debt isn't fun.. you'd be more satisfied with spending the money if it was just extra money.

 

I've come really close to paying them out, so I'm going to either pay them out completely and apply for 0 interest (introductory offer) cards that offer rewards, or just keep them and use my bank account to finance the parts. Right now, I have only two cards that offer any incentive for use, the other two are just pointless.

 

I am just dedicating my BillMeLater to car parts only and my BofA card I use for emergencies only.. both have 0 balances.. haha I don't really want any debt right now outside of my car note.

But, if you can swing it where it works for you man.. def get them it's worth it.

 

Yea, I'm pretty good at structuring my debt so it works in my favor

 

Dooo it then! I bet it will take you half the time to let Vit tune your car.

I just gotta worry about my next residency right now.. after that I will be building the suspension.

 

Trent, a user ordered the aem intake and messaged me that it hits the foglight. Any advice on that?

 

Crap! I ordered it, I just have yet to install it.

 

Trent said he had no problem with it. I'll let you all know on sat when I take a crack at it...in fact, there are pictures of it working on the ilx.

 

Learn to install.. tighten all of the tubing, push it all together better, and push the mounting up against their points properly.. Mine has about .5" of clearance. That user could PM me and I could walk them through it.. I'd even be willing to talk to them on the phone if need be.

It works fine...

I am not pretending it's on my car lol..


There are 2 major mounting points.. one in the fenderwell and one on the battery.. you have to push the intake towards them until it's in place then WHILE holding it in place tighten it down. Make sure each piece of tubing is properly shoved into it's respective elbow.

 

This picture shows the filter sitting behind the fog light.. you can't see the foglight in the picture but this should show you it does go on. And, there is about .5" give or take between the end of the filter and the edge of the foglight housing.

The black cord behind the intake tubing is the ground wire running to the mounting point of the intake. It has a VERY flexible poly urethrane bushing.. just wiggle the pipe around until you get the filter on and it will slide right behind the housing.

 

24 tunes later Vit said he likes how the tune is running and is ready to stop if I am. Stay posted

 

e-dyno, e-dyno, e-dyno!

 

All the highways and back roads in my area have declines or inclines.. I am trying to find a flat one still.

 

that sucks, I thought you're supposed to do a pull on the same road, each time you do it.

 

Nah, I asked him before we started. He doesn't care where you do your datalogs while he's revising the tunes and it doesn't have to be the same road each time either. I took different paths each time.

 

so how would he know if the tune gained more power if you're on a flat road vs a slight uphill.

 

I highly doubt the fuel tables and shit care about power or hills.... I am pretty certain he tunes the car to run optimally. The eDyno just shows you where you're power wise

You can always email him. I am sure he can explain it to you.

 

So, my datalogs for the eDyno are off.. Waiting for Vit at this point.

News as well: my swaybars arrived today, the rear sway bar is on. And, I must say it definitely helps the car stay planted. I took some hard turn ins to see how the car would react and it definitely turns in quicker. Over bumps it was even more compliant.. Overall I am satisfied and with my driving I wasn't so much bothered by the understeer but hopefully I get more stability and the car will be more compliant.. And I might even try stiff in the rear and soft in the front to see how that feels.

Anyways.. I'd say even for a mild mannered driver IF you want a more compliant ride the rear sway bar is a bargain.. I think the stock Honda bar should of been like this, personally.

 

Which one did you get again Trent? I'm pretty close on ordering it

 

just checked heeltoes site and they have the rear bar

on a separate note, I just installed the cold air. i'll post pics in my build thread. It's not much louder than stock, but definitely sounds more aggressive, especially in the upper rpms. Whoever said this intake hits the fog, needs to get slapped in the face. P.s. removing the lower resonator was a pita.

 

Haha, removing the lower resonator pieces were the absolute worst part BY FAR lol..

 

yea, otherwise it's a really easy install. Although I couldn't get mine to line up perfectly with the mounting points (call me lazy). The intake was so snug (between pressing neatly up against the fender liner and being clamped on tightly) I didn't even think mounting the intake was necessary.

 

Yeah, it would rattle about pretty good.

So.. My eDyno got back and lets say its over 200.. I sent him another one to confirm the number and will post it soon.

 

I can't wait to see what the final numbers are.

 

One I cut off at 7200 and still made 199whp
One I cut off at 7400 and still made 208whp


The last one I sent to him that I am waiting to get back I found a flat road so there will be no dips in the line and should be more accurate. And, I bounced it off the rev limiter to be certain I got a full pull.. should be from 1700-7600 rpm pull @ 82F ambient, low humidity. Judging from the other pulls though it's going to be over 200.

 

how did going 200 rpm higher in the powerband yield 9hp lol

 

Like I said, I sent off another one on a much more flat of a road to confirm the numbers and to complete the pull.. But to answer your question outside of that, higher RPMs, more air, more fuel, more power..

And, those two pulls weren't on the same roads.

 

K, lemme know...I'm about to order the catless dp.

 

Do it, regardless of what numbers come out.. DP, CAI, TUNE will make most happy with the power difference.. it's an incredible difference for the butt dyno.

 

Yep, I am going to order regardless. I'm just curious of your numbers.

 

This should be pretty spot on, it's a FLAT road.. Not a single bump, not a tiny incline nor decline.. The road VERY much so affects the eDyno so be careful with you choosing.. I am sure picking a downslope will make your number inflate or opposite.. I dunno but enjoy!

 

Nice graph! The peak numbers aren't as I as I thought theyd be, but you are running a cat and stock exhaust.

 

Now that I know how much the road affects these it really makes me question some of the Civic guys.. I mean this is a perfectly flat road. Roads I previously perceived as flat actually have slight inclines and declines. I am really happy with the result. I could easily be claiming 208/176. I will get a real dyno when I figure out a catback

 

Update: I ordered a Vibrant 2.5" in/out resonator (oval) and a Borla Pro-XR1 muffler (round style).. my buddy's shop is going to install are replace the piping (if it is smaller than 2.5"). I don't think it's going to need new piping though.

Hope it doesn't matter if the resonator is before or after the muffler.

 

Resonators usually come before the muffler. I think it has a lot to do with altering the frequencies before they get muffled. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a sound difference. So anyway, if I understand you correctly, you're going to replace the stock exhaust with a custom setup in which you weld new muffler and resonator to the stock catback?

 

On Honda cars I have noticed that but different applications have resonators after too.. We'll see.. I don't think it matters much from what I have read online.

But yeah, I don't see a benefit in getting a 2.5" catback.. the stock piping is already that with the exception of the rear section.. it looks like it maybe a bit smaller.. if it is indeed smaller I will have them replace those pieces.

 

yea, it's 2.5 to 2.3 in some areas. That's why I want a full 2.5 catback. Reason why I prefer a catback is because I have a guarantee, to some extent of what it'll sound like. when making your own exhaust, you'll never know how it's going to sound.

 

You don't really know how it'll sound til you hear it in person. Mine will be a 2.5" then, like I said they'll replace the smaller piping with 2.5".

The Borla XR1 muffler is the same muffler used in their cat back. It's too loud so I am using a vibrant resonator to tone it down. Saving over $250.

To each his own in this case.