1G ILX Chat, Chit, and General Info Thread
Baah. Thanks for trying. lol
I know we have a map sensor. I cant find a part number for a maf. I know the rsx guys dont have one. Wondering if the r20 runs like their k20... I would have figured the rsx to have a maf but what do I know I owned a 1994 prior.
Im finding google hits for ilx maf but cant find a part # like I said. Looking at pictures of the 2.4 intakes it looks like they have a maf sensor.
I know we have a map sensor. I cant find a part number for a maf. I know the rsx guys dont have one. Wondering if the r20 runs like their k20... I would have figured the rsx to have a maf but what do I know I owned a 1994 prior.
Im finding google hits for ilx maf but cant find a part # like I said. Looking at pictures of the 2.4 intakes it looks like they have a maf sensor.
Exactly. But no part numbers.
Im trying to find an maf adapter for a custom intake but cant figure out which adapter I need. Started looking into oe adapters and found the rsx doesnt use one. That got me to wtf mate?! Started looking at intakes and noticing no maf cut outs so I further started to wtf mate?!?! Clearly I can see the cut out in the pictures of the aem cai only.
Im pretty sure weve got both and I just cant find the 0art number. Map was easy to find bu no maf part #.
Im trying to find an maf adapter for a custom intake but cant figure out which adapter I need. Started looking into oe adapters and found the rsx doesnt use one. That got me to wtf mate?! Started looking at intakes and noticing no maf cut outs so I further started to wtf mate?!?! Clearly I can see the cut out in the pictures of the aem cai only.
Im pretty sure weve got both and I just cant find the 0art number. Map was easy to find bu no maf part #.
And I wonder how much play that outlet of that resonator is as well as the inlet connected to the mani. Im thinking a maf adapter to velocity stack with a custom airbox connected to the resonator. Maybe hit a 75 degree bent where the resonator connects to the airbox and the velocity stack filt and box can fit straight up to the maf adapter and tb.
And I wonder how much play that outlet of that resonator is as well as the inlet connected to the mani. Im thinking a maf adapter to velocity stack with a custom airbox connected to the resonator. Maybe hit a 75 degree bent where the resonator connects to the airbox and the velocity stack filt and box can fit straight up to the maf adapter and tb.
Hey spdandpwr got a diagram of the 2.4L? I am looking to modify whats there until I get an intake like K&N FIPK kit.
Also since were on the subject can anyone confirm all mounting points are the same from Civic SI to ILX 2.4?
Also since were on the subject can anyone confirm all mounting points are the same from Civic SI to ILX 2.4?
Basically Im curious to know if the K&N box will mount to the inner fender the same as it does to the civic and that the pipe that connects to bring cold air in will mount. I am also looking to modify the piping leading up to it to make it more effecient and bring a good charge of cooler air in there
The K&N Sri will sit the same, but there's more room behind the intake on the ilx than there is on the Si...making the heatshield moot. I'll pull up a diagram soon.
Speaking of intakes for the ILX, Trent and I had the AEM and it provided a great sound and gains. Plus the temps were only a few degrees above ambient. Marcus at heeltoe was trying to sell me one for an awesome price, but I had mine by then, lol...heck, I'd ask him about the K&N...he can probably get you a deal on that too.
Speaking of intakes for the ILX, Trent and I had the AEM and it provided a great sound and gains. Plus the temps were only a few degrees above ambient. Marcus at heeltoe was trying to sell me one for an awesome price, but I had mine by then, lol...heck, I'd ask him about the K&N...he can probably get you a deal on that too.
Thanks for both but the first one is the one I want to modify the most, it looks like a waste of weight and space. I want to create more of a ram air duct without all the extra passages for the air to travel sit and heat up...
I was going to use heat barrier tape all over most of the tubing and the metal K&N box to try and keep temps low. I am not looking at cold air at the moment though I am going back and forth with which one to get.
Is AEM CARB Exempt already or still pending?
Is fitment really that bad about the Fogs hitting the filter?
Thanks again for the diagrams!
I was going to use heat barrier tape all over most of the tubing and the metal K&N box to try and keep temps low. I am not looking at cold air at the moment though I am going back and forth with which one to get.
Is AEM CARB Exempt already or still pending?
Is fitment really that bad about the Fogs hitting the filter?
Thanks again for the diagrams!
Yea, that box weighs a ton. I prefer to recommend the AEM because it provides a larger weight savings and the AEM comes with a CARB sticker / you can request one. I had no fitment issue whatsoever with the AEM, so I'm not sure where you heard that. Trent is running it without issue too.
Honestly I dont want to buy a cai. I wont be able to make it as free flowing as aem or injen.
Im a believer in stock intakes. I feel they work the best aside from one off intakes made by racing groups... aem and injen are great production intakes but not worth the money.
A short ram utilizing the oe resonator is a great idea .. hence why k&n does it. K&n is a great production intake, id rather that than a cai if it comes with an airbox and resonator or duct inlet.
I however dont want to spend the money for a k&n either.
As I said im a believer in oe intakes. Upgrade piping to 3in anywhere its not, to a nice big Velocity stack with a two way pod filter with the center connected to the resonator or a spectre inline airbox will still make better gains than a stock intake and cost half as much as a short ram making as much or more and a 3rd as much as a cai and making similar gains... depending on how great of an air duct you can use.
Im a believer in stock intakes. I feel they work the best aside from one off intakes made by racing groups... aem and injen are great production intakes but not worth the money.
A short ram utilizing the oe resonator is a great idea .. hence why k&n does it. K&n is a great production intake, id rather that than a cai if it comes with an airbox and resonator or duct inlet.
I however dont want to spend the money for a k&n either.
As I said im a believer in oe intakes. Upgrade piping to 3in anywhere its not, to a nice big Velocity stack with a two way pod filter with the center connected to the resonator or a spectre inline airbox will still make better gains than a stock intake and cost half as much as a short ram making as much or more and a 3rd as much as a cai and making similar gains... depending on how great of an air duct you can use.
As for the box weighing a ton. Youd shave off more weight taking a dump before making a run than removing the resonator.
Cai just arent for some and their benefits are arguable. Ive seen proven dyno read outs showing a cai only gives real gains when directly hooked to a fan. Once the car is moving ambient temps drop low enough to make a cai more restrictive due to the longer piping.
Cai just arent for some and their benefits are arguable. Ive seen proven dyno read outs showing a cai only gives real gains when directly hooked to a fan. Once the car is moving ambient temps drop low enough to make a cai more restrictive due to the longer piping.
Lol the weight is not a mute point it all adds up. By itself yeah its pointless, but added with other items I plan on eliminating sound deadening material throughout the car as well as eliminating it anywhere else I can. The axle back will be lighter than oem, the mid pipe will be lighter, removal of spare and tools will shed weight so on and so forth
Do you mean before the intake? I can't see the picture so not sure we're talking about the same thing. I don't know what the shape of the res is behind the bumper but I assumed it was just a straight tube from under the car up into the airbox. If not I will definitely be making my own duct directly connecting to the driver side airdam next to the fog.
The K&N Sri will sit the same, but there's more room behind the intake on the ilx than there is on the Si...making the heatshield moot. I'll pull up a diagram soon.
Speaking of intakes for the ILX, Trent and I had the AEM and it provided a great sound and gains. Plus the temps were only a few degrees above ambient. Marcus at heeltoe was trying to sell me one for an awesome price, but I had mine by then, lol...heck, I'd ask him about the K&N...he can probably get you a deal on that too.
Speaking of intakes for the ILX, Trent and I had the AEM and it provided a great sound and gains. Plus the temps were only a few degrees above ambient. Marcus at heeltoe was trying to sell me one for an awesome price, but I had mine by then, lol...heck, I'd ask him about the K&N...he can probably get you a deal on that too.
Honestly I dont believe the gains most companies claim their intake will make. It took watching an expensive intake, a cheap filter, and a oem airbox all make the same exact numbers to come to that realization. Only way an intake will provide noticeable gains is if a fan id directing air straight into the piping... even then the mechanic and dyno owner said you WILL NOT feel the gains.
I see intake as bling... later down the road with heavier modding an intake is needed (I guess). But for now its simply something I can mod so I will.
Yea, that box weighs a ton. I prefer to recommend the AEM because it provides a larger weight savings and the AEM comes with a CARB sticker / you can request one. I had no fitment issue whatsoever with the AEM, so I'm not sure where you heard that. Trent is running it without issue too.
Lol the weight is not a mute point it all adds up. By itself yeah its pointless, but added with other items I plan on eliminating sound deadening material throughout the car as well as eliminating it anywhere else I can. The axle back will be lighter than oem, the mid pipe will be lighter, removal of spare and tools will shed weight so on and so forth
The wheels I get will be lighter than oem I'm shooting for between 15-17lbs. the coilovers should shed some weight too.
I think weight from both systems will be close, but if you leave all the oe crap in the diagram, aem will be lighter, after the mods I do it should be close. Also k&n shows pending carb so right now it's not street legal
I think weight from both systems will be close, but if you leave all the oe crap in the diagram, aem will be lighter, after the mods I do it should be close. Also k&n shows pending carb so right now it's not street legal


Wheels I plan on getting. Steal my idea and you here by suck forever.[/QUOTE]
Who makes them? They do look fine!
I dont mind at all I am considering Buddy Club P1 QFs, Desmond Regamasters, Volk TE37s, Enkie PF01 or RPF1s right now these are the front runners. Its going to be a while till I make the switch to one of these and I have set my price point at no more than 16-1800 for wheels.
I am looking for a 17x8-8.5inch wheel with an offset between 38-42, not looking to run a crazy cambered stance set up or anything. All the above in this size range should be at or below my target weight. Motegi also has a few light weight wheels that are right around 1000.00 or below.
If it works out my way I will end up with Black or White Regamasters, but we will have to see what deals I find when Im ready to buy
I am looking for a 17x8-8.5inch wheel with an offset between 38-42, not looking to run a crazy cambered stance set up or anything. All the above in this size range should be at or below my target weight. Motegi also has a few light weight wheels that are right around 1000.00 or below.
If it works out my way I will end up with Black or White Regamasters, but we will have to see what deals I find when Im ready to buy
I had a ct-engineering sri on my 8th civic si and did a back to back comparison with against a cai and the temps hitting the manifold were considerably lower. You'd be surprised how much the header (which is near the sri on both the 8th and 9th gen Sis) affects the air temp. Especially when you remove the heatshield (as with all after market headers).
I had a ct-engineering sri on my 8th civic si and did a back to back comparison with against a cai and the temps hitting the manifold were considerably lower. You'd be surprised how much the header (which is near the sri on both the 8th and 9th gen Sis) affects the air temp. Especially when you remove the heatshield (as with all after market headers).
Also the only time I ever really noticed a issue is off the line after sitting at a light or something you get that initial heat soak bog due to intake air temps climbing while sitting still. Since my drag days are looooooong gone and I am really looking for a few HP while driving aggressively through canyons, AutX or Track days and a bit more aggressive sound the K&N unit should be just fine for what I want.
Currently I am not looking at replacing the up pipe but if and when I decide to I will wrap the new unit to try and minimize the heat issues
I had a ct-engineering sri on my 8th civic si and did a back to back comparison with against a cai and the temps hitting the manifold were considerably lower. You'd be surprised how much the header (which is near the sri on both the 8th and 9th gen Sis) affects the air temp. Especially when you remove the heatshield (as with all after market headers).
NSX Spec DOOO IT!!! Mugens would look great.
Would be a nice conservative wheel size. Did you see the white regas I chopped? Should be about the size you're interested in. Looked way better than meisters in 17in.
hahaha Sorry ma, didn't see this until just now. Ive posted their name a couple times, someone even looked up their cost and had the same response you gave. hahaha They do have three options for builds. Im going with the forged ones if I go Rotiform which is the cheapest... still roughly 1.5grand before rubber. They then have 2 piece and 3 piece designs for the real ballers. Honestly I cant do anything if someone gets the wheels I want. Thats why I posted the forever suck thing. Ive noticed the ideas run dry quickly with new cars and good ideas get snatched up real quick. No where near original, but when it comes to these new cars there are a lot of enthusiasts and a lot more shameless hobbiests.
I dont mind at all I am considering Buddy Club P1 QFs, Desmond Regamasters, Volk TE37s, Enkie PF01 or RPF1s right now these are the front runners. Its going to be a while till I make the switch to one of these and I have set my price point at no more than 16-1800 for wheels.
I am looking for a 17x8-8.5inch wheel with an offset between 38-42, not looking to run a crazy cambered stance set up or anything. All the above in this size range should be at or below my target weight. Motegi also has a few light weight wheels that are right around 1000.00 or below.
If it works out my way I will end up with Black or White Regamasters, but we will have to see what deals I find when Im ready to buy
I am looking for a 17x8-8.5inch wheel with an offset between 38-42, not looking to run a crazy cambered stance set up or anything. All the above in this size range should be at or below my target weight. Motegi also has a few light weight wheels that are right around 1000.00 or below.
If it works out my way I will end up with Black or White Regamasters, but we will have to see what deals I find when Im ready to buy
hahaha Sorry ma, didn't see this until just now. Ive posted their name a couple times, someone even looked up their cost and had the same response you gave. hahaha They do have three options for builds. Im going with the forged ones if I go Rotiform which is the cheapest... still roughly 1.5grand before rubber. They then have 2 piece and 3 piece designs for the real ballers. Honestly I cant do anything if someone gets the wheels I want. Thats why I posted the forever suck thing. Ive noticed the ideas run dry quickly with new cars and good ideas get snatched up real quick. No where near original, but when it comes to these new cars there are a lot of enthusiasts and a lot more shameless hobbiests.
while they all look great that stuff does conduct a lot of heat. I dont really care about the extra 3/4 HP from the CAI.
Also the only time I ever really noticed a issue is off the line after sitting at a light or something you get that initial heat soak bog due to intake air temps climbing while sitting still.
Currently I am not looking at replacing the up pipe but if and when I decide to I will wrap the new unit to try and minimize the heat issues
Also the only time I ever really noticed a issue is off the line after sitting at a light or something you get that initial heat soak bog due to intake air temps climbing while sitting still.
Currently I am not looking at replacing the up pipe but if and when I decide to I will wrap the new unit to try and minimize the heat issues
Truth
Up Pipe?
Are you talking about the resonator? Relocating it may be a good option. Making a duct that fits to the driver side air dam next to the fog right behind the mesh would be ideal. Tear out the resonator and us some simple black ducting to bring air up to a custom plastic liner wrapped airbox... even if it just is a wall between the engine and the intake, it'll do a lot when air is moving around. Air will run front to back instead of circulating.
The k&n filter would work great or make your own air box and use a Blox Racing Velocity Stack to their oversized filter. Nice 3in to like 6in bellmouth with a filter that covers the entire set up.
Then if you really wanted you could throw some washers into the hood hinges to raise it up for that cowel induction. UUUUH SON!!!1!1!!
So no one knows if the radiators are compatible between the 8th gens and the ilx ):
I know they have different part numbers and the 8th gen has a another crazy neck that extends out to put radiator fluid in it. But I don't know if it'll drop in and mount up to stock brackets.
I know they have different part numbers and the 8th gen has a another crazy neck that extends out to put radiator fluid in it. But I don't know if it'll drop in and mount up to stock brackets.
Okay man, go check out MightyCarMods on youtube. They are a couple german guys that like to debunk VERY common car myths... like people thinking CAIs do so much. They prove more than once the gains are NOT there. And please, when I say not there I mean not noticeable. Sound doesn't count.
Truth
Truth
Up Pipe?
Are you talking about the resonator? Relocating it may be a good option. Making a duct that fits to the driver side air dam next to the fog right behind the mesh would be ideal. Tear out the resonator and us some simple black ducting to bring air up to a custom plastic liner wrapped airbox... even if it just is a wall between the engine and the intake, it'll do a lot when air is moving around. Air will run front to back instead of circulating.
The k&n filter would work great or make your own air box and use a Blox Racing Velocity Stack to their oversized filter. Nice 3in to like 6in bellmouth with a filter that covers the entire set up.
Then if you really wanted you could throw some washers into the hood hinges to raise it up for that cowel induction. UUUUH SON!!!1!1!!
Truth
Up Pipe?
Are you talking about the resonator? Relocating it may be a good option. Making a duct that fits to the driver side air dam next to the fog right behind the mesh would be ideal. Tear out the resonator and us some simple black ducting to bring air up to a custom plastic liner wrapped airbox... even if it just is a wall between the engine and the intake, it'll do a lot when air is moving around. Air will run front to back instead of circulating.
The k&n filter would work great or make your own air box and use a Blox Racing Velocity Stack to their oversized filter. Nice 3in to like 6in bellmouth with a filter that covers the entire set up.
Then if you really wanted you could throw some washers into the hood hinges to raise it up for that cowel induction. UUUUH SON!!!1!1!!
Ugh. Tuning an intake alone wont do anything. The changes are due to the skilled tuner not the intake. There are 2 or 3 videos indepth talking about different style intakes. Its not false. Bottom line when the car is moving engine bay temps drop about as low as ambient.
Heat soak is only an issue on certain materials and is easily avoided with plastics instead of aluminum. A cai is susceptible heat soak as well.
Im not saying a cai isnt great. It has its advantages over a simple sri. But an sri done properly with venting, induction, relocation, and a combination of a few will make it as good... some would argue better.
In a turbo set up hands down cai.
Na set up sri. Thats how ive simplified it in the past.
I personally may get a cai. Better for the future when I go fi and more bling status. I personally like minimal sound increase so I would rather plastics but a wrapped aluminum cai should tone it down.
Heat soak is only an issue on certain materials and is easily avoided with plastics instead of aluminum. A cai is susceptible heat soak as well.
Im not saying a cai isnt great. It has its advantages over a simple sri. But an sri done properly with venting, induction, relocation, and a combination of a few will make it as good... some would argue better.
In a turbo set up hands down cai.
Na set up sri. Thats how ive simplified it in the past.
I personally may get a cai. Better for the future when I go fi and more bling status. I personally like minimal sound increase so I would rather plastics but a wrapped aluminum cai should tone it down.
I dont think youve seen the same video. They had to attach a fan to the intake manifold to show gains over a oe intake. They were meauring internal ambient temps. They put a gauge in the engine bay and read the temp at idle, while revving, and with a fan blowing across the engine which will simulate air passing through while driving. They know what their doing and how to check it.
And an oe intake is less prone to heat soak than an aluminum intake.. I believe. Could be wrong on that one.
And an oe intake is less prone to heat soak than an aluminum intake.. I believe. Could be wrong on that one.
I like the spoiler, but the Side moldings to me look like an after thought or kinda tacked on.
Hope you like them and I do think they are functional in reducing door dings
I am just not 100% on liking the look of them
Hope you like them and I do think they are functional in reducing door dings
I am just not 100% on liking the look of them
Ugh. Tuning an intake alone wont do anything. The changes are due to the skilled tuner not the intake. There are 2 or 3 videos indepth talking about different style intakes. Its not false. Bottom line when the car is moving engine bay temps drop about as low as ambient.
Heat soak is only an issue on certain materials and is easily avoided with plastics instead of aluminum. A cai is susceptible heat soak as well.
Im not saying a cai isnt great. It has its advantages over a simple sri. But an sri done properly with venting, induction, relocation, and a combination of a few will make it as good... some would argue better.
In a turbo set up hands down cai.
Na set up sri. Thats how ive simplified it in the past.
I personally may get a cai. Better for the future when I go fi and more bling status. I personally like minimal sound increase so I would rather plastics but a wrapped aluminum cai should tone it down.
Heat soak is only an issue on certain materials and is easily avoided with plastics instead of aluminum. A cai is susceptible heat soak as well.
Im not saying a cai isnt great. It has its advantages over a simple sri. But an sri done properly with venting, induction, relocation, and a combination of a few will make it as good... some would argue better.
In a turbo set up hands down cai.
Na set up sri. Thats how ive simplified it in the past.
I personally may get a cai. Better for the future when I go fi and more bling status. I personally like minimal sound increase so I would rather plastics but a wrapped aluminum cai should tone it down.
Thanks, just wanted to change it up a bit. I havent seen one ilx with the mouldings so why not lol
hahaha Sorry ma, didn't see this until just now. Ive posted their name a couple times, someone even looked up their cost and had the same response you gave. hahaha They do have three options for builds. Im going with the forged ones if I go Rotiform which is the cheapest... still roughly 1.5grand before rubber. They then have 2 piece and 3 piece designs for the real ballers. Honestly I cant do anything if someone gets the wheels I want. Thats why I posted the forever suck thing. Ive noticed the ideas run dry quickly with new cars and good ideas get snatched up real quick. No where near original, but when it comes to these new cars there are a lot of enthusiasts and a lot more shameless hobbiests.
Side moldings looked better to me when they were standard & had a recessed place in the door for them (like on my '00 TL). Otherwise, I agree, they look a bit like an afterthought.





