H&R Springs. and I'll take some more when I clean it lol

 

So it sets pretty much like usdmJON's does. Hopefully you don't have the issues like some of the others.

 

So I bought d2 coils and I can't return them... And now tanabe or another company(i cant say the name) wants to build suspension on my car. D2's might go up for sale 850 plus shipping if nothing falls through.

 

What are the top two best coil-over systems for the 2.4 currently out on the market?

 

Well, they all currently suck ass. Only teins, ksport, d2's, Megan racing coils are out so you can be the judge of that. Teins are overpriced for the product you recieve. Never rode on d2's or ksport but some members here have. I ordered my d2's with custom spring rates, 7k front and 5k rear. And I used to have Megan's on my em1.. They were garbage; that was back in 08 though.

 

The tein street advance are the best rated (on the civic forums), but they are pricey. Your call, they seem to be going for around $1,000 (the price is hyperlinked)

In my opinion, I'd rather pay the extra 100-200 and not have to worry about them blowing struts. Plus I heard good things about Teins customer service. If you want, I can link to you to reviews on the civic sites.

 

Please do. Additionally, what is the difference between the Tein Street Advance and Street Basis coil-overs?

 

Ugh, the 9th gencivic site is being a pos. It won't let me access older posts -- I guess they purged the older threads. Here's all I could muster and one review was from the same guy, though I should say he's a very active member and has been modding cars for a while.

Street Advance:
Link to Review (with Pictures) / Link to containing thread
Link to Review / Link to containing thread
Read on Installation Tips and Owner's General Impressions


Street Basis
Link to review on a TC

 

Right now I would go with Feals and have them build me a set before I went with the Teins. Teins track suspensions are great but stiff for daily use (not to mention over 2 Grand).

For 1450.00 you can contact Feals and they will build you some coilovers the way you want.

Personally I cant stand Ksport, D2s and the like... If I had to choose one of them I would go with the Teins but I would rather wait for other companies before just buying some cheap COs and regretting it later.

You could always get springs now and by the time your shocks start to show wear hopefully some of the companies doing R&D will be complete.

I am working with a company that will hopefully give us a good Street/Track coil over, unfortunately this process takes time and is slow going. Soon as I have something concrete I will start a thread and keep you guys up to date with the status. In addition SlaammedILX is working on R&Ding for another company so within the hopefully not too distant future we should have a couple more options.

 

Well, I'm going lower than low and the teins don't offer that. So I chose to go with something that'll drop me a good 3-4 inches

 

Ill give you guys a head start before I lower mine.
I wouldnt even consider mine lowered now. I forget it has springs installed when I look at my ilx. Needs more low.

 

Can't wait to see the outcome.

 

Coils will be here on the 8th of August. Soooooo we'll all have to wait until then lol

 

I wish just to be where you ARE.

Wow!

Me too!

 

Lol I have to live up to my name and be one slammed ilx.

 

Looking forward to it!

 

Can't wait to see it Slaammed! The ones I'm getting should max out at between 2.5-3 inches but they are more performance oriented so that's to be expected. US tuners for some reason don't associate slammed cars with being able to be aggressively driven on the street... The Japanese take the Snoop dogg approach and drop it like its hot, and drive it like they stole it... LoL

I know the cliches were corny but I'm bored and tired LOL!!!

 

So am I, hopefully if my financial aid doesn't skimp out and I have to pay for most of my stuff again ill have flashpro and get it tuned. Ill be crossing my fingers to break the 300whp milestone soon without the supercharger hopefully.

Haha we're all anxious to see it slammed. But Jon is making so many photoshop pics, no ones gunna believe my ilx is that low. The teins bottom out around 2inches, but I remember you saying someone else who shall not be named. I'm not snoop dog but ill have my ilx hang lower than grandma titties.

 

I think I'll be stuck around 250ish though.. Until internal parts come out.

 

Why wont anyone believe it? People need to get out more if they think my chops are low. My integra was lower. Hate to see what theyd say to my integra scraping the crown of the road.

 

300whp on a na car with bolt ons and a tune lol

that aint happening.

335's aint pushing 300 whp in stock form even with 2 turbos

 

Just thinking, it's low enough for me, and looks good, to boot! I like the SLAMMED look, but practically, for me it wouldn't work. I'll live vicariously through y'all on that one.

 

Because your chops look real ! Lol join the club and go low

Realisticly, no 300whp with bolt ons is ridiculous. 300 with bolt ons and headwork is the goal (; I'm going to try and see if the 8th gen valve train fits minus the camshafts, but springs, retainers, valves, etc are all in line.

Hahaha we'll see how this goes. There's a bunch of speed bumps around here so I might not go all the way down but enough to clear speed bumps.

 

Oh wow, can't edit the post. But even with the internals done and a few bolt ons I believe I'll be stuck well below 300.. Don't ruin my wishful thinking lol.

And as for the 335i, those things are underrated in hp. There's a topic on it in bimmerforums. It's faster than the m3 but the m3 has no torque compared to the 335.

 

Honestly I think 250-275hp is doable (if you dyno at churches you will hit 300...LOL!!!).

Swapping a K20R Head and upgrading to the TSX intake Cam should get you closer to the 250-260ish mark with tuning and bolt ons. If you want to get to 300 or higher you will need to bump compression, upgrade the fuel shes sipping, upgrade injectors, port and polish everything and some ITBS (well maybe not the ITBS but they would be sick ) at least thats what Im thinking based on other hybrid motors. I have not looked at the head on the K24Z but for some reason they are not making the power the older motors do with like mods I know part of it is the integrated header design, but I think there may be more too it.

I am actually considering the head swap at some point too but I will not be doing internals to the bottom end. I will do intake and Axle back and focus on looks since I wont be able to afford track days for a while any way (Daycare is just too darn expensive...LOL)

Cant wait to see what you got in store Slaammed its going to be interesting for sure!

 

Bad news guys. The K20 head won't fit on a k24z3 or z7 head...topic was exhausted on the civic forums. This motor with its integrated header also restricts its capacity to put out serious numbers. Good luck, but I think your better off slapping an s/c as you'll easily hit 320 on a stage 2 kit without breaking a sweat....plus it'll be cheaper and provide you with better dd driveability...lets not forget it also has a similarly linear powerband.

 

I wouldnt say forced induction is in any way better for daily driving than an all motor build. Forced induction simply puts strain on the motor that performance internals wont cause.
All the work neveronline is talking about THEN adding forced induction would be the best route if FI is in yoire future at all.

I really want a older k series in my car but ive been doing some searching into r series builds and there are definitely options available for 2.0 drivers. Id honestly rather swap for a dohc but I reading the sohc r20 is a bit more torque heavy than the comparative dohc k20.

Not sure anymore if ill go supercharged. Since ill have to piece my own set up for the r20 I may build the engine for a turbo set up than run a turbo at a low psi to keep it somewhat dd friendly.

 

A 300hp all motor 4 cylinder is no way more reliable or driveable than a boosted 4 cylinder achieving the same power. You'll need very aggressive cams and compression ratios in order to achieve that power. I could be wrong for other platforms, but the civic forums show a way different story on the old k20s.

 

Its cool and thanks for the info spdandpwr!

I dont think I am going to throw in the towel just yet. Where there is a will there is a way and granted it may not be as easy as one would think I am sure Tuners will figure out a way to make more power with these motors. It may take machining, some type of adapter plate who knows... I remember when I/H/E were the only mods you could do and if you wanted to be the fastest guy around you went with nitrous... Then swaps came into play... then frankenstein motors (LS-V's and B20-Vs etc) in the begining those motors had all kinds of issues with reliability but eventually people figured out a way to make them last and be pretty darn reliable. I could be wrong, but I think its feasable.

I like boost but I prefer NA when it comes to Honda motors... I like the sound of them NA compared to boosted. I am also a believer NA over boost as far as reliability is concerned though out of SC and Turbo a SC would tend to be a little more reliable since its harder for the user to turn up the boost.

 

Just from personal experience, I found modding na cars with bolt on's just wasn't cutting it, spending so much money for so little gains.

That's why I got the Saab back in 2006. It was my first turbo car which also had the high-output garret turbo. With just a simple tune, intake and by pass valve adjustment, the gains were enormous. I dyno'd it a few years ago and we hit close to 310ft tq whp and 260 whp off a 2.0L 4 banger single turbo lol

the V6 single scroll saab's are pushing well over 500ft tq whp with just a tune as well

 

I thought you guys knew we couldn't swap heads with older heads. Sucks but oh well, were stuck with this sorry flowing head. But anyways anything will last as long as it's built correctly, my eg si was all motor k24 running 296whp and it was fine. I've always preferred na over boost but if worst comes to worst which probably will because no ones guna touch the k24z7 motor for a while ill just end up boosting.

 

I agree with aksilx if the goal is total HP then boost (turbo Specifically) is hands down the winner. My Evo X was making just a tad under 400WHP with nothing more than UICP/LICP, Intake, Exhaust, Cat Delete, pill and tune. Being that it was AWD it was totally streetable and very fast.

For me tuning is not about all out HP though its more about balance and with FWD boost gets to a point where its pointless (Wheel spin is always an issue for FWD cars) having linear HP and smooth delivery with a good suspension settings is a lot more important on FWD cars tahst why I tend to leasn toward all motor or maybe SC.

The sound of all motor cars is second to none in my opinion, boost is cool and blow off valves sound nice and all, but I prefer NA engines. Its all preference though and budget, personnaly I dont mind spending money and havign a build that takes a while (shoot most of the time I am never truly finished with a car till I sell it anyway )

 

I don't have any high horse power intentions yet, but I plan on adding a few ponies to this chariot. I'm more concerned about lowering it and making it funner to drive; ill probably figure out the internal build this winter or mid next year.

Wheel spin shouldn't be a problem since we do have the VSA traction control thing anyway. But I'll probably end up boosting if I can't use the aftermarket 8th gen internals in my head/block. Kinda don't want to tear it down anyway since it's still under warranty but the dealer never addresses any of my issues so the warranty is pointless. I'm dying to add more power to this heavy ass shell since I'm barely taking out gsr's and em1's.

 

Ps do any of you guys know if the 8th gen radiator will fit on the ilx ? And if it'll function correctly with little to no modification?

 

Damn ricers and your illegal street racing.

 

^ lol

 

Does the 2.0 ilx have a map AND maf? I think I'm confusing the two. LOL We don't have a maf right?

 

Funny that you say that, somebody has already cracked open the head and is working on machining it. I definitely appreciate the enthusiasm. Good luck with everything...I'll be here to see it every step of the way. P.s. I'm hoping you can find a way to spruce up the sound of these 2.4s...I saw some exhaust videos of the Si and I wasn't too enthusiastic...maybe I'm just getting old, lol.

 

I know the ILX 2.4 has a MAP and MAF. They both do the same thing in terms of determining airflow, but MAP tunes tend to run better on these Hondas. Not sure how you'd find out if there is a MAP sensor on the 2.0...actually, I'm pretty sure there is because people turbo'd the r18s without a sweat and those leverage map sensors.

 

Yeah Im confident things wil change and people will have options with these motors. It may take time but I think advances will take place and people will figure out what works and what doesnt.

As for exhaust I share your concerns... I have listened to almost all the exhaust clips on youtube and am done with trying to figure out what 9th gen exhaust I want to mutilate to get on the ILX (im not cutting the rear bumper). After all my research I have decided to go with an FD2 Spoon N1 Axle Back and modify the hangers, position, tip, if necessary the flange (still trying to see if thats needed or not) and add or subtract piping to get the Axle back on the car.

I was strongly considering getting a Burns Stainless and building one with his 12inch race mufflers, but the exhaust note of Spoons N1s won me over, they are pretty loud so I will be having the tip custom welded to a dolphin style or turn down tip to not only fit without mods to the bumper but also should reduce volume by a few decibels so we will see what it sounds like when its all done. I will start a thread with pics of the mods we do to the exhaust and hopefully some sound clips too.

I know most will probably not like it, but out of all my builds I have never owned a Spoon N1 on any of them and have always wanted one. The downside is I have the money to do it and have access to the exhaust but because the suspension stalemate Im in I cant move forward just yet. I dont want any clearence issues So I would rather have the suspension done first before taking on the custom exhaust